Originally Posted by
mnealtx
Yellow coticule, that's correct. I remember Josh and others saying it cuts like a 6k with a heavy slurry. I figured I could possibly use it like that, but that's not been the case, unfortunately.
I have a cotigura stone (just a small bit of yellow coticule) that I tried to use when I first got my yellow. In my experience, it did not improve the edges. Since then I have went to plain water spritzed on the coticule with better results.
Yes, I "chase sharpness" up and down the edge. The whole edge is sharp, but some spots aren't as sharp as others.
Have you determined that this Boker blade is absolutely flat on both sides? If not, as a suggestion, I perform the following test with any new/used blade I'm going to hone:
Take any flat smooth surface (8000 side of the Norton works well for this) that's long or wide enough to allow you to lay the blade flat on the surface. Then place an index finger on the center of the spine to anchor the blade and use your other index finger to press on the toe of the spine, then the heel. Then use that other index finger to lightly press near the edge (extremely lightly if you have an extra hollow) on the toe, then the heel.
What are you looking for? When you press the toe or heel of the
spine, does the blade rock/"see-saw"/wobble?
When you have the blade anchored by that first index finger on
the middle of the spine, can you slip a piece of paper between the flat surface
and the toe edge of the razor?
I've had blades where I can slide about two to three post-its from the toe going towards the heel until about the middle of the edge before the paper stops. Bingo....warped blade. You must do this test on BOTH sides of the razor. I've had razors that lie perfectly and completely flat along the entire edge on one side of the razor, but then found that when the other side was laid on the surface...warpage.
I wouldn't go as far as saying that a warped blade is a sucko blade (I'd almost go that far, and I'm so tempted to go that far, but even new blades can have this problem as a borderline sucko brand new TI 5/8ths Super Gnome which taunts me endlessly can attest to) but man can you be in for chasing that edge as you put it from here until Tuesday. I just hate warped blades, period. You could give me a warped, even slightly warped $500 razor and a flat plain Jane slick black $30 Sheffield or Solingen any brand and I'm sorry but I'm going to take the $30 razor since I'd be able to actually hone and shave with the thing without running it through a three ring circus to really get it sharp.
I had dinged the edge on the Boker and was working it back into shape. I had it shaving reasonably well off the 8k. After trying a dry coticule edge on the Wapi (another story), I thought I would try it on the Boker and see what improvement there was.
I did 10 strokes on the dry coticule and tested - and it wouldn't cut hair. Through the scope, there was visible blunting of the edge compared to the 8k edge that I started with. I tried a water film on the coticule and then a slurry, with no appreciable change.
I think going from water to slurry, if you do want to use slurry is going backwards. That's just been my experience, so others may disagree. Shave tests for me and microscope views show slurry edges to have much more noticeable striations and a harsher shave then water edges. My worst experience to date with a slurry was buying some "Rottenstone" powder at Rockler for about $5 since I saw Bill Ellis do this in his DVD. I used this like he did on the 4000 Norton side. He's a master, I'm not. Talk about a blunt edge.......!
So, I went back to the 8k and now have it as described above. Yesterday evening, I shaved 4 days growth of beard with no irritation. It did pull in the heaviest areas of my beard, but EVERY straight pulls there for me.
I disagree - it could be used instead of the 8k,
I don't think I explained myself as I should have. Absolutely the yellow can replace the 8000. I meant since you were talking about the yellow possibly replacing both the 8000 AND the 4000, I don't see that as a possibility.
it would just take longer...and I'd *LOVE* to see the coticule "wow me", because it sure hasn't, yet, with one exception - a Wapi that I touched up on the dry coticule after the 8k. Every time I've tried to use the coticule as anything other than the equivalent of a pasted strop, it's dissapointed me. I get to a certain point of sharpness, then....nothing.
As I said, I have another Wapi that I'm working with - I may give it one more shot, to see. If that doesn't do it, I'll probably put it up on the BST and order the Spyderco trio when I'm back Stateside on vacation in a couple months.