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Hi there,
Was just wondering if there is a way to hone an edge back to being straight. I've got a few older razors, where the width of the blade is narrower at the heel than at the point - we've all seen that..
It bugs the heck out of me, esp on broader blades where there's room to make things right by getting the point's width to be the same as the heel's width, basically turning a well-used 7/8 into a like-new 5/8..
Anyone know if this can be done, and if so exactly how..
Thanks.:)
A lot, in fact most older English blades are made this way, so I wouldn't worry about it!
If you can post a scan or a picture though, we could give more accurate advice!
Here's what I mean.. forgive the crude diagram..
Just want to know do you hone this kind of thing straight, or do you take it gently to a grinder?:shrug:
I don't want to warp the blades, so I figured there's a honing technique to straightening things out, though I'm sure it will take some time....
Thanks again.
http://www.goimageshare.com/out.php/...adeDiagram.jpg
I have a Pearson&co that came of Ebay with a heavy frown and a smaller heel than toe.
I took it to a DMT 325 grit, placed the cutting edge on top of the hones surface, and ground it down with sawing motions, till the bevel was completely gone and the blade was straight and almost even in width. Then I started rocking my stroke a bit, to put a slight smile on.
When I was pleased with the shape I got, I contemplated a bit about taping the spine while creating a new bevel, but in the end I decided not to, because I didn't want to alter the razors cutting angle even more than I already did.
I created a new bevel by honing (grinding) on that DMT325, then moved up to 600 grit, 1200grit and my regular honing sequence on a coticule. It's a great shaver now.
I think it could be done on sandpaper as well. This was my first experience doing something like that, so I'm not sure if I just was lucky to get a way with it. That new bevel turned out nice and even.
Bart.
These are pictures of a couple of blades I have that are not worn on the heel, they are made this way! Is this what yours looks like?
It is hard for me to imagine a heel being worn down before the toe is as the heel spends less time on a hone
Thanks Bart, thats kinda what I've been playing with in my mind, just wasn't sure that putting the edge on a stone and 'sawing' it down was good for the blade, I thought it might put a warp in it, but if you had success, then maybe it's just about getting there slowly and carefully, not applying too much pressure so as to warp things...
thanks again for the input.
Many of the English blades were made with a smaller heel because it caused you to naturally have a shaving stroke that led with the toe, which tends to cut the whiskers better!
JMS, I'm meaning a blade that's been "badly" honed, where for whatever reason the intended straight or slightly smiling edge has become out of proportion either with the heel OR the toe being narrower than it should to be both usable and aesthetically pleasing.. Barts comments are kind of what I thought one had to do to get things straight, though any other comments on whether that's THE way to do it would be great.. The razors I'm talking about are the badly worn kinds on ebay, where there's still enough of the blade to salvage the tool for shaving..
thanks you guys,
I of course don't know what you know about straights, so I had to ask the questions!
I have seen a couple of newbies in my time here ask similar questions as yours, and upon further questioning it became apparent that they had a perfectly fine blade! I just wanted to make sure you weren't getting ready to do some seriously unneccessary work!
No warpage whatsoever:). I didn't apply much pressure while "honesawing" that blade. To my surprise, things went rather rapidly on that 325 grit. The razor was a full hollow ground, so there was only a thin sheet of steel to remove. On a wedge, if you need to go further than the depth of the bevel, things could be different. Also, because mine being a full hollow, when I was finished with straightening it out, the thickness of the totally blunt, ground down edge was equal throughout the entire length of the blade. I have no idea what would happen if you'd do the same on a wedge or quarter grind. Could it be possible that you end up with a tapered width along that edge, which might be a recipe for huge complications? I don't really know.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasper Kade
If that razor is precious to you, I would wait till more experienced people chime in at this thread to offer their opinion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bart
Been there, done that too. Worked fine for me!
Thanks guys, I'll give this advice a try, and see how it goes. It seems like its the only logical way to do it, so no mystery technique here I guess..
If your talking about an old wedge I would advise against it because you will end up with a very thick edge and wide bevel. if it is a full hollow, bi-concave then if you removed 1/4" you would be into the "belly" or "ridge" of the blade, the thickest part, again resulting in a wide bevel.
Instead of creating a straight edge why not consider creating a "smile" profile? You would have to remove much less metal.
Just my two cents,:)
+1 with Randy, You have to look carefully at the blade profile and make sure that using the "Breadkinfe " technique is not going to take the edge into the wrong point of the balde... Other than that yes it does work!!!!
I would leave it alone. But it's your blade, so just be careful if you decide to do that.
You could always send it out for a regrind, there are a few guys around here that offer that service.
I have fixed edges with this problem using the circular hone method and uneven pressure. It is not something I would recommend though as it's very easy to get it wrong.
+1 with Russell. A regrind is really the only route to take if you're striving for perfection.