HAD begins: DMT D8XX for Shapton 16k?

Okay folks, the RAD is in full effect, which led to quite a few out of condition razors purchased and being brought back to shavability. And I like to think I've been pretty successful, although I know it's a learning process, and I am only beginning.

Now comes the HAD.

My Shapton 16k is on its way, to join set (500, 1k, 4, 8k -- and a few arkansas stones for fun). I've been using the DMT D8XX for lapping, which works great (based on my limited experience with razors -- it's great for knives, and if it isn't, I don't know any better yet).

So my question is, given how rough the D8XX is, is it too coarse to lap the 16k? Do I need to move to the DMT D8C? I know, I know. Buy the dedicated Shapton lapping plate. I would, but $300 is out of my budget right now.

Will the D8XX work on the 16k?

Thanks all,

cass

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Originally Posted by cassady

Okay folks, the RAD is in full effect, which led to quite a few out of condition razors purchased and being brought back to shavability. And I like to think I've been pretty successful, although I know it's a learning process, and I am only beginning.

Now comes the HAD.

My Shapton 16k is on its way, to join set (500, 1k, 4, 8k -- and a few arkansas stones for fun). I've been using the DMT D8XX for lapping, which works great (based on my limited experience with razors -- it's great for knives, and if it isn't, I don't know any better yet).

So my question is, given how rough the D8XX is, is it too coarse to lap the 16k? Do I need to move to the DMT D8C? I know, I know. Buy the dedicated Shapton lapping plate. I would, but $300 is out of my budget right now.

Will the D8XX work on the 16k?

Thanks all,

cass

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I just got my 16K and in the material that I got they suggest lapping with Wet and Dry 320 on a glass surface. Which I did. If you do not do a hell of a lot of razors lapping should probably be a 1 time deal if I am not mistaken.You are going to love the 16K. I just used it and pasted the razor with 0.5 and 0.25. Incredible shave indeed!

Take Care,
Richard

Buried somewhere deep inside of SRP was a great thread about post lapping of stones.... Basically how to get a nice smooth surface on each stone after lapping....
I used this system up until I bought the Shapton GDLP now it is not neccessary...
Here is what you do... I will just use some for instance stone grits here....

You lap your 1k stone as usual then 4k then 8 k then 16k
Now comes the trick, you take the 1k and rub it under a steady stream of water against the 4k, rinse them both, then take the 4k and do the same with the 8k, and the same with the 8k and 16k... you will end up with 4 nice smooth lapped stones....
Remember to rinse the stones well as you do this, to keep the grits sperate...

IIRC.. I showed this system at the NC meetup when we lapped a Norton set there

Only problem with that might be their sticking together... permanently:rolleyes:

i don't think you need a super slick surface, in fact it may be less desirable. I have used the extra coarse dmt quite a bit, so much that the new 400 atoma i recently bought out performs it speed wise, not to mention looking flatter under my straightedge.

The xtra coarse should not specifically lead to increased hone loss either. It's the amount of material needed to be removed, not the speed of removal that makes a hone flat. though in real life the xtra coarse probably does result in a litlle more loss compared to 325.

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Originally Posted by kevint

Only problem with that might be their sticking together... permanently:rolleyes:

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You just separate them like you're twisting off the top cookie to get at the filling in an Oreo!

cass

I was under the assumption that since the Shapton 16K that I owned was FLAT when it was new,that it would STAY flat until I honed enough razors on it.

Well after less than 2 months of use-the hone is nowhere near as flat-infact, I am currently waiting for the DGLP. The polymer used in the stone does indeed change shape after it is wet, causing mine to have a distinct hollow down the center of the hone. Using a precision machinist straightedge there is a noticeable deformation. This is NORMAL.

Don't assume you won't need to lap the stones because you aren't planning on honing "x" number of razors. Granted, you CAN lap the hone using 320grit wet/dry sandpaper-believe me-its VERY SLOW going. Owning 4 different Shapton glass hones, I bought the DGLP,not cheap-but it IS part of the system,and can also be used on my natural stones. You might want to view this thread:
:tuhttp://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...ners-help.html

I own the D8XX, the Shapton 16K and I've owned the GDLP so I feel qualified to answer this from actual experience. I would never lap my 16K with the D8XX. The D8XX is a plate for hogging material. As you know, that sucker leaves deep striations. Much more noticeable than the D8C. Yes, the Shapton ceramic stones are homogenous throughout and you're not going to wreck the stone (like lapping the surface glaze off of some barber hones only to reveal an altered coarser stone underneath), but I want the smoothest 16K surface I can get. The finer you lap stones the more stone you'll have contacting your razors. I have better results that way.

Chris L

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Originally Posted by Lt.Arclight

Granted, you CAN lap the hone using 320grit wet/dry sandpaper-believe me-its VERY SLOW going. Owning 4 different Shapton glass hones, I bought the DGLP,not cheap-but it IS part of the system,and can also be used on my natural stones. You might want to view this thread:
:tuhttp://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...ners-help.html

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I was lucky enough to be able to lap my 16K in about 30 minutes using 320 grit wet sandpaper on a marble tile. I simply can not afford the $300 for a lapping plate. I took a chance and got it done and it works wonders on my razors. One can order from The Perfect Edge and get it lapped for $5.00 extra. I wish I would have known when I ordered mine and saved the hassle.

I do have a question though and that is once you have it lapped when will you have to lap it again?


Thanks guys,
Richard

From what I have been told of the materials characteristics and the fact that I will have the DGLP-I'll more than likely lap them everytime I use them. I'm more concerned about getting the most out of the hone and I'm not really worried about wearing them out.

It really won't be a big deal to give each hone a few laps to guarantee a flat surface.Not to mention that I can use the plate on the vintage Escher blue/green as well as another vintage NOS Thuringian blue/ green (not Escher-brandname) rocks I just purchased.

Contrary to what seems to be a burgeoning belief, you can lap Shapton ceramic on glass plates with a DMT D8C perfectly fine. Having owned and used both the D8C and the GDLP, I can say the D8C is more than up to the task. I'd hate to see guys hesitate on buying Shapton stones because they think they have to buy the GDLP to make them work.

Chris L