Shapton8000Jp Directly to 30000 (From Shapton)

Just thought a few members might enjoy these directions translated directly from Shapton and recomending a 8000 to 30000 progression. Remember folks, the Japanese still use steels very similar to many of the vintage razors we enjoy. Also, this is for the pro series not the Japanese version of the glass stones which does leave a few holes in my point, but the pro series and the Japanese Glass Stones version are made specifically for carbon steel. Lynn, Glenn and others already pointed out his experience with the pro series(sorry Jimmy yours are great:)) and that to me speaks volumes. I edited most of the directions out and got down to just what our discussion was about but left the link if you want the rest to read. Enjoy.

Directions for using the 30000-grit Shapton Honing Stone


http://www.fine-tools.com/logo41a.jpg Dieter Schmid - Fine Tools http://www.fine-tools.com/logo41.jpg Dieter Schmid - Fine Tools


Georg-Wilhelm-Str. 7 A - 10711 Berlin
Tel ++49 30 342 1757 - Fax ++49 30 342 1764
Website: Homepage of Dieter Schmid's Fine Tools
To prices and other tools

Directions for using the 30000-grit Shapton Honing Stone

http://www.fine-tools.com/shapton30000.jpg This text is a translation from the factory directions for using the 30,000-grit Shapton sharpening stone, and so can be taken as the direct recommendation of the manufacturer.

Honing with the 30,000-grit stone goes quickly when the edge has been properly prepared using a series of progressively finer stones. Normally one starts with the 1,000-grit stone (orange), and then works up through the 2,000 (green), the 5,000 (wine or "burgundy"), the 8,000 (melon) and then gives the blade a final honing with the 30,000-grit (purple) stone.

Frequently Asked Questions



Question:I would like to try to use the "Purple" stone. The directions suggest that I should use it as the final step after honing the edge on the "Melon" (8,000-grit) stone. But can I use it after honing with the "Cream" (12,000-grit) stone, because the "Cream" stone is finer than the "Melon" stone?
Answer: Before finishing with the "Purple" stone, the "Cream" stone should be used to hone very hard steels. With softer alloys and steels, it is better to use the "Melon" stone and then move to the "Purple" stone.




I hope and pray Kevin wins whatever his heart desires and all else too.:)
Life is way to short to not love a good shave.
Cheers,
Mike

Actually ya know; I have only bought one stone since I started str8razoring, and that one will fit easily in your back pocket. no wait 2.

I have never felt any desire for super high grit synthetics.

I can do most things with 8000, even plane figured maple against the grain with no tear out. I think the inability to clear swarf of the soft steel/iron on laminated blades would get really bad, naturals handle that problem nicely. If they did not do you think JP smiths would have continued forge welding?

I have read only a few comments from toolies about the 30. They say it is not really 'sharper' but stays sharp longer. I dont know.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kevint

Actually ya know; I have only bought one stone since I started str8razoring, and that one will fit easily in your back pocket. no wait 2.

I have never felt any desire for super high grit synthetics.

I can do most things with 8000, even plane figured maple against the grain with no tear out. I think the inability to clear swarf of the soft steel/iron on laminated blades would get really bad, naturals handle that problem nicely. If they did not do you think JP smiths would have continued forge welding?

I have read only a few comments from toolies about the 30. They say it is not really 'sharper' but stays sharp longer. I dont know.

---

Kevin,
I don't want to get too deep into this as I want to keep this info on target, but once again you bring me down memory lane to when I got my first synthetic water stone. It was soft like a marshmellow by todays standards, but faster than the old oil stones, then Norton comes out with their synthetics, and I was and still am totally impressed. We will start another topic on this later to see when and how other members switched to synthetics and what their impressions were.
M

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kingfish

Just thought a few members might enjoy these directions translated directly from Shapton and recomending a 8000 to 30000 progression.

Directions for using the 30000-grit Shapton Honing Stone


This text is a translation from the factory directions for using the 30,000-grit Shapton sharpening stone, and so can be taken as the direct recommendation of the manufacturer.
Cheers,
Mike

---

Mike's main focus on these instructions is the progression that Shapton recommends. My main focus if you follow the link is that they recommend soaking the stones 6 to 10 minutes before lapping. :eek:

Fortunately we have a member living in Japan who was kind enough to do some diligent detective work and called both Shapton and Naniwa to speak to their representitives on the soaking issue.

Although the instructions formerly recommended soaking for the Shapton pros they no longer recommend that. Now lapping under running water is the preferred procedure for both Shapton and Naniwa. Many thanks to JimR for going above and beyond for a paranoid member. :tu