Edge Coating, Lucas Gun Oil

I read the post from AFDAVIS11 “Interesting Article” and the attached “Modern Mechanix article regarding effects of stropping and read with interest the recommendation of applying Vaseline to the edge to prevent oxidation. This made great sense, since viewing the edge under magnification after shaving, I have noticed what I assumed are skin particles attached to the edge. I am sure that even smaller microscopic particles are embedded in the stria and the moisture contained will cause or exacerbate oxidation.

So I started looking for other lubricants to coat the edge. One that I am currently trying and am pleased with is “Lucas Oil’s, Gun Oil”.

It is a synthetic oil designed for use in automatic weapons. It is odorless and does seem to penetrate the metal as advertized. It is a heavy lubricant not quite the consistency of honey but close and is very slick. It does not run off the edge or blade and wipes off cleanly with a paper towel or Kleenex. By the way, I found that unbleached paper napkins donated by Starbucks work excellently to dry a razor. They are extremely absorbent and slightly abrasive.

The literature claims the gun oil not only prevents rust but attacks existing oxidation and does appear to do so at the pivot.

I apply a drop to a Q-tip and apply to the edge first, the pivot pin and swab the entire blade with the remaining saturated tip, leaving a thin layer on the blade. I save the Q-tip in a plastic prescription bottle in the drawer.

Having only used for a week I have not noticed if edge sharpness is extended, though it does have good finger print resistance. Amazingly, it also seems to work well on firearms.

I was wondering if any one has experience with this product or any others worth trying for edge preservation, or your thoughts on edge coating. I find the application only extends the shaving process by a few seconds and even if it does not extend edge life it does protect the metal.

Marty

But.... Than I could't use my stones as often :(

I only use one of two oils, food safe mineral oil, or camilia oil. I also only use these for long term storage blades. Washing the oil off when placed into rotation.

I have break free oil but not that brand. I currently use camilla oil and I notice it browns with age and stains metal a little. This is an interesting idea.
Mike

Just spray some WD-40.

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Originally Posted by cotdt

Just spray some WD-40.

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The nice thing about gun oil is that it does not evaporate. There is no smell and it is made to protect steel in very harsh environments.
Mike

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Originally Posted by cotdt

Just spray some WD-40.

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EEEKKKK!!!!!!

RUNS SCREAMING AWAY.........:soapbox:

I hadn't heard of the Lucas oil but I will look into it. I am lucky that years ago I picked up enough R.I.G. (rust inhibiting grease) to last me a lifetime. They don't make it anymore but the stuff was the hot cat dung for blued firearms and edged weapons years ago.

As far as skin and moisture in the striations, that is why I always make sure to strop 20 or 30 round trips on the leather following drying the razor after the shave. Then I wipe it down with an Outer's gun cloth impregnated with RIG.

The impression I got from the article is that the Vaseline coats the edge preventing air from hitting it and starting the oxidation process.

This Lucas Gun Oil is very viscous and clings to the edge very well even when applied heavily. I coat the edge first leaving almost a bead on it. Vaseline would accomplish the same end, except it has a low melting point and right now here in Southern California tempetures have been hovering around 100 degrees and I think Vaseline would make a mess.

The reasons I like this stuff are,
1. It hold on extremely well
2. Has no odor
3. Is inexpensive. I paid $2.50 for a 2 ounce bottle.
4. Wipes off very easily and completely.

I was looking for a simple and quick way seal the edge. The blade coating was just being frugal using the remaining oil on the Q-tip.

What I am most interested in, is if sealing the edge extends blade life, everything else is a bonus.

I do have a couple jars of “Rig” somewhere, but as I recall it is some potent smelling stuff. It took years for my wife to get use to the smell of Hoppys No.9, but don’t think she wants it or anything like it in “her” bathroom. I’ll dig them up and give it a try, thanks Jim.

Marty

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Originally Posted by M Martinez

The impression I got from the article is that the Vaseline coats the edge preventing air from hitting it and starting the oxidation process.

This Lucas Gun Oil is very viscous and clings to the edge very well even when applied heavily. I coat the edge first leaving almost a bead on it. Vaseline would accomplish the same end, except it has a low melting point and right now here in Southern California tempetures have been hovering around 100 degrees and I think Vaseline would make a mess.

The reasons I like this stuff are,
1. It hold on extremely well
2. Has no odor
3. Is inexpensive. I paid $2.50 for a 2 ounce bottle.
4. Wipes off very easily and completely.

I was looking for a simple and quick way seal the edge. The blade coating was just being frugal using the remaining oil on the Q-tip.

What I am most interested in, is if sealing the edge extends blade life, everything else is a bonus.

I do have a couple jars of “Rig” somewhere, but as I recall it is some potent smelling stuff. It took years for my wife to get use to the smell of Hoppys No.9, but don’t think she wants it or anything like it in “her” bathroom. I’ll dig them up and give it a try, thanks Jim.

Marty

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Marty, when I first saw RIG advertised in gun magazines they had a photo of a nail left in a half a jar of salt water. Half the nail was covered with Rig and half wasn't and of course the half that wasn't was badly rusted while the half that was didn't rust. It would be interesting to try a test like that with the Lucas if you have a nail laying around and the inclination. :)

I think either way RIG of Gun oil is way above and beyond. Jimmy, think about how protective gun oil is for CW users and the harsh environments like sweat and high humidity. Any razor would cringe. Down here in Humid South Florida most serious people use Break Free gun oil but I would bet any one would be more than up to task.
Mike

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Originally Posted by Kingfish

I think either way RIG of Gun oil is way above and beyond. Jimmy, think about how protective gun oil is for CW users and the harsh environments like sweat and high humidity. Any razor would cringe. Down here in Humid South Florida most serious people use Break Free gun oil but I would bet any one would be more than up to task.
Mike

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Mike, for years my routine with minty Case Tested XX and XX knives has been to wipe them down with Semichrome and follow with RIG on the Outers Gun Cloth. I also use it on firearms (not the Semichrome) and RiG has never failed me. I don't leave a lot on. Wipe on and wipe off.

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Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

Mike, for years my routine with minty Case Tested XX and XX knives has been to wipe them down with Semichrome and follow with RIG on the Outers Gun Cloth. I also use it on firearms (not the Semichrome) and RiG has never failed me. I don't leave a lot on. Wipe on and wipe off.

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I did not realize you wipe it off. I wonder if it is a paraffin base plus whatever inhibitors or just grease with inhibitors. Does it smell waxy?
Mike

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Originally Posted by Kingfish

I did not realize you wipe it off. I wonder if it is a paraffin base plus whatever inhibitors or just grease with inhibitors. Does it smell waxy?
Mike

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Oh it is definitely grease and petroleum based. Not waxy at all. I still can't believe they went out of biz.

I haven't tried the Lucas product yet, but have used Hoppe's #9 and Breakfree CLP for guns, etc... since pre-1970. After seeing Ballistol remove crud that the former 2 didn't, I started using it for most purposes. The price is nice too, at about $10 for 16 ounces.

I tested Camellia, Mineral, and Ballistol oils against each other this summer and the Ballistol worked much better. The test conditions were far harsher than a razor will likely see. Under normal conditions, any of those 3 work fine for my razors.

Here's a test that was done a while back; too bad they didn't use WD-40...

I use TuffGlide for short term storage of razors I use regularly. It was developed by and / or for the Navy Seals for their knives, guns and other equipment. I haven't had any staining or rust whatsoever using this stuff.

Jerry
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Originally Posted by Sticky

I haven't tried the Lucas product yet, but have used Hoppe's #9 and Breakfree CLP for guns, etc... since pre-1970. After seeing Ballistol remove crud that the former 2 didn't, I started using it for most purposes. The price is nice too, at about $10 for 16 ounces.

I tested Camellia, Mineral, and Ballistol oils against each other this summer and the Ballistol worked much better. The test conditions were far harsher than a razor will likely see. Under normal conditions, any of those 3 work fine for my razors.

Here's a test that was done a while back; too bad they didn't use WD-40...

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I can tell you that WD40 offers little protection on tools in my garage. I use to spray down drill press, band saw etc. regularly but it offers little if any protection in high humidity. I think 90% of it is gone within a day or two. I have not tried ballistol but have Shooters Choice, and it is good for long term storage. I think you are correct in that producthat any of the former products would be fine for razor storage.
Having said that I will continue my camilia oil routine on my rotational shavers and think about using a more stable product for razors that are just being stored.
Mike

Cool! Where do you get it from? I'm always looking for better products to protect metal. I've a whole shelf of them and the finer gun products really do protect metal better. I buy WD40 by the gallon but don't use it for fine metal products as it has water in it (they use it in bluing operations for that reason, I'm told). I really like the RIG products too and it's used by benchresters who spare no expense for anything involved with their sport. I use Camellia Oil when I ship razors to people as I know it will only be on temporarily. I have a few bottles and tubes of Break Free but find that it separates after setting awhile. If you can point me to some Lucas, I'd appreciate it. Do you wipe it off before shaving? I don't think I'd like it in a cut.

I use Ballistol for years on my razors and non of them got any rust even where I live the climate is quite humid. Once treated the blade is protected for months. It dissolves very easily the shave soap on the blade and protects even there where there's still water left (around the pin...)
It emulsifies with water and works against rust by neutralising the oxigen in the water rather then forming a film protectionagainst it!
Ballistol is a gun oil, develloped around 1901 on special order of the German Army with multiple tasks to fulfil: first a gun oil and a dissolver of gunpowder, then as a protectant of wood and leather and finally as an desinfectant for minor wounds because it is totally non-poisonous. A medicinal version is sold for some 70 years in German pharmacies under the label "Neo-Ballistol", which is in fact the same gun oil with another odour more suitable for internal intake. It is used for all kind of illnesses( upset stomach, cold, sun burns, insect bite...)
That's why I'm using Ballistol: it is totally non-poisonous.
All other gun oils mentioned in this thread are poisonous. I know them all, they are excellent gun oils but non of them are safe. How can someone use poisonous stuff on razor blades?
Ballistol dissolves shave soap, dessinfects the blades en keeps them rust free for months. What else do you want? This is a proven household product in the german speeking countries (Germany, Austria, Switserland and also in the Netherlands and Belgium. It is also used in hospitals because it is non toxic.
See this link on youtube:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvCd5Sf5AJk

Hi,

+1 on the TufGlide/TufCloth

I live by the Sea, and these products have kept my razors free from corrosion :)

Best regards

Russ

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Originally Posted by kingreverent

All other gun oils mentioned in this thread are poisonous. I know them all, they are excellent gun oils but non of them are safe. How can someone use poisonous stuff on razor blades?

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+1 on that, I just use household mineral oil-- put a dab on a tissue and "strop" across it, spine leading, to oil the edge

-Chief

I've been experimenting and thus far the WD-40 3-in-1 ( lubricates, clean and prevents rust ) runs off the blade. Camellia as it stands is far better.

I use Birchwood Casey Sheath Rust Preventive for my gun. It contains FPR ( finger print remover ). Excellent for humid and salt-air climates. It's harmless to stock finishes: plastic, rubber or even fabrics. Very ideal for moving parts. Which is why it's recommended for automotive, industrial and household appliances.

There's also Tuf-Glide and Tuf-Cloth developed for Seals. I'm sure some members here can provide feedback for you. I'll have to check my local Big 5 as Walmart's gun section doesn't carry it.