Chromium oxide bars

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09-10-2009, 07:40 PM
CloseShave

Chromium oxide bars

Has anyone used chromium oxide bars from woodcraft. If so, how do you get on the strop evenly? Is it as good as some sold in paste form?
09-10-2009, 09:00 PM
hi_bud_gl

You better go with SRD chro2. it has been tested and most people uses it. GL
09-10-2009, 09:50 PM
gssixgun

+1 the Woodcraft stuff is not pure, there is a thread on the forum about what is really in it.... IIRC ChrisL tracked it all down...
09-11-2009, 03:59 PM
CloseShave

Glen,

Thanks for directing me to the thread. The bar got mixed reviews. It sounded as though some were stropping directly on the bar. the picture of the edge appears positive.
09-11-2009, 05:38 PM
0livia

whichever one you use, you can apply it like a crayon
and rub it in with lighter fluid
or smooth it out with a warm scraper.
09-11-2009, 06:07 PM
zib

Chris L used to sell the Hand American Crox in little packets, enough for two applications. The instructions are still on the WIKI, I think. I have the SRD Crayon, it's great, but it's enough to last you several lifetimes. Check with Chris....
09-11-2009, 08:02 PM
gary haywood

I have both dry powder and srd crayon which is what mastro livi provides with his loom strop i think its exallant stuff and is easy to spread on my canvas side livi loom but not so good on leathewr paddle i prefer the powder for that.
09-11-2009, 08:13 PM
zib

Quote:

Originally Posted by gary haywood

I have both dry powder and srd crayon which is what mastro livi provides with his loom strop i think its exallant stuff and is easy to spread on my canvas side livi loom but not so good on leathewr paddle i prefer the powder for that.

Gary, what medium do you use to mix your crox powder?
09-12-2009, 06:35 AM
randydance062449

Quote:

Originally Posted by zib

Gary, what medium do you use to mix your crox powder?

Mineral oil, neetsfoot oil, hand lotion etc will all work.
09-12-2009, 06:37 AM
randydance062449

I only use the powder.
09-12-2009, 07:13 AM
0livia

Gary if its getting bumpy, just rub it off with lighter fluid.
09-12-2009, 04:08 PM
gary haywood

Quote:

Originally Posted by zib

Gary, what medium do you use to mix your crox powder?

If i apply to leathe i mix my hand american powder with neat foot oil on baksa i have used 3 in 1 oil. The crayon does'nt go on my paddle that well as i rub crayon up and down it kind of puts it on then rub it off but on linen side of livi loom its easy.
09-12-2009, 04:09 PM
gary haywood

Quote:

Originally Posted by 0livia

Gary if its getting bumpy, just rub it off with lighter fluid.

I rub it in so hard but i will try lighter fliud i've read you can rub it in with petrol on a rag.
09-13-2009, 10:53 AM
0livia

Should have the same effect.
Any solvent works.
09-13-2009, 12:55 PM
Howard

Bars are for rotating buffing wheels

Bars are generally used by rubbing them into rotating cotton or linen buffing wheels. The wheel acts as the carrier for the compound and the rotating wheel buffs the metal. I buff razors this way although I use a white compound. This needs to be done carefully and with lots of body protection as the buffing wheel can grab the razor and fling it. It's one of the most dangerous tools in the metal working shop. My suggestion is you use the powder or liquid form of CrO.
09-13-2009, 01:24 PM
matt321

1 Attachment(s)

You can get an amazingly smooth application of the powder form by mixing it with rubbing alcohol and spraying it on with a plastic spray bottle from the drugstore. I did this onto webbing and it worked great. I used a level teaspoon in a 2 oz. sprayer. You can control the amount applied by spraying on less or by thinning the mixture. Mine came out with a slight green tint that was extremely uniform.

Attachment 30420
09-13-2009, 09:11 PM
CloseShave

Quote:

Originally Posted by matt321

You can get an amazingly smooth application of the powder form by mixing it with rubbing alcohol and spraying it on with a plastic spray bottle from the drugstore. I did this onto webbing and it worked great. I used a level teaspoon in a 2 oz. sprayer. You can control the amount applied by spraying on less or by thinning the mixture. Mine came out with a slight green tint that was extremely uniform.

Attachment 30420

Great suggestion. Is that a teaspoon of alcohol to what quantity of powder? The uniformity on the stop is impressive.
09-14-2009, 06:34 PM
matt321

2 Attachment(s)

Add approx one teaspoon of the powder to the bottle and then add the alcohol. This is just what seemed about right to me. I haven't experimented with different concentrations. I kept it thin so it wouldn't clog. So far that hasn't been a problem.

Here is what it looks like settled over night and then shaken:

Attachment 30456

Attachment 30457
09-14-2009, 07:07 PM
hi_bud_gl

Genius
excellent job
09-15-2009, 08:12 PM
Pete_S

Quote:

Originally Posted by matt321

You can get an amazingly smooth application of the powder form by mixing it with rubbing alcohol and spraying it on with a plastic spray bottle from the drugstore. I did this onto webbing and it worked great. I used a level teaspoon in a 2 oz. sprayer. You can control the amount applied by spraying on less or by thinning the mixture. Mine came out with a slight green tint that was extremely uniform.

Attachment 30420

You can also do this with water mixed with detergent. It does look nice when its done, looks like its been dyed light green (if you're applying it to cloth).
09-17-2009, 09:14 PM
Ben325e

Quote:

Originally Posted by gssixgun

+1 the Woodcraft stuff is not pure, there is a thread on the forum about what is really in it.... IIRC ChrisL tracked it all down...

You recall correctly :), but I did, too.

Most of the 'bars' you can buy at most of the different wood shops are made by the Formax manufacturing company. They make the bars either to their own specs or to a customers specs. For example the Veritas green rouge sold by Lee Valley tools.... made by formax.

Here's a link to my previous post on the subject:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/basic...-bars-not.html

The "chromium oxide bars" are actually only about 30 percent chromium oxide, the rest is aluminum oxide which isn't graded with the highest tolerances. My shaves with the 'bars' were lousy compared to the powdered chromium oxide. You can buy all the chromium oxide you need for about 13 bucks from HandAmerican.com, and it's good stuff.
09-18-2009, 03:56 AM
randydance062449

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ben325e

You recall correctly :), but I did, too.

Most of the 'bars' you can buy at most of the different wood shops are made by the Formax manufacturing company. They make the bars either to their own specs or to a customers specs. For example the Veritas green rouge sold by Lee Valley tools.... made by formax.

Here's a link to my previous post on the subject:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/basic...-bars-not.html

The "chromium oxide bars" are actually only about 30 percent chromium oxide, the rest is aluminum oxide which isn't graded with the highest tolerances. My shaves with the 'bars' were lousy compared to the powdered chromium oxide. You can buy all the chromium oxide you need for about 13 bucks from HandAmerican.com, and it's good stuff.

FWIW ...When I researched the Formax bar a number of years ago the info I received said that the AlOx was up to 6 microns in size.
09-29-2009, 01:20 AM
44Whiskas

After reading through the post about the crox bars larger particles I ordered the crox from Keith over at hand American. His service was stellar and he did me right when there was a delay in order. I would recommend the powder or premix - I have both now and both work equally nice
09-29-2009, 01:59 PM
Seraphim

Quote:

Originally Posted by randydance062449

FWIW ...When I researched the Formax bar a number of years ago the info I received said that the AlOx was up to 6 microns in size.

Yes, I have used it, and it definitely gives a finish that is consistant with that spec. It gives a smooth finish, but also contains larger scaratch patterns as well. Not the worst stuff in the world, but the pure ChroMo is much much more refined.