What to use to slurry on the finest hones?

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09-14-2009, 07:16 PM
Lesslemming

What to use to slurry on the finest hones?

Hi guys,

I have something on my mind.
Recently I was playing around with some of my natural and synthetic hones
and slurries.

I had a cerax 1k/6k combination hone and a half one of those,
that I turned into slurry stones.
So I could slurry on both sides.

And I have to say I liked it.

I slurried my SS 10k as well wich turned out just great.
I will be owner of a fine japanese natural hone in some time,
and would like to slurry this one up, as well.

But atm the only thing I have to build a slurry on all hones is a micromesh 12k pad.
That´s kind of lame. Not the best equippment

I have been looking for a DMT 1.2k but those leave stores for 60€ here in germany,
wich is more than I am willing to pay for a nice hone...

So, do you guys have any special things you use as a "nagura"?
09-14-2009, 07:25 PM
JimmyHAD

In general if it is a fine hone I don't use a slurry. If I want to create a slurry for a stone that didn't have it's own slurry stone I like a credit card sized DMT 325. Cheap and easy to use and I don't think it loses any of it's abrasive on the stone.
09-14-2009, 07:26 PM
fenriswolf

I am using a DMT D8EE and it works pretty fine with my Escher`s and my Nakayama Asagi.

Not small, not cheap, but very useful.
09-14-2009, 08:09 PM
Pyment

would a lapped barber hone work?
09-14-2009, 08:29 PM
gssixgun

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

In general if it is a fine hone I don't use a slurry. If I want to create a slurry for a stone that didn't have it's own slurry stone I like a credit card sized DMT 325. Cheap and easy to use and I don't think it loses any of it's abrasive on the stone.

Exactly +1 for me Jimmy wrote it so I don't have too....
09-15-2009, 07:37 AM
Lesslemming

I have been thinking of the DMT credit cards myself, but would prefer the extra fine 1.2k.
They cost 10bucks here, but I was wondering if they arent wey too thin.
I read they have about 1mm thickness. If they get sucked onto the hone,
do I have a chance to move it again? ^^
09-15-2009, 10:41 AM
Neil Miller

I'm with Jimmy, too - no slurry. But if you have to, a pinch of rottenstone/tripoli powder works: its soft and breaks down very finely.
09-15-2009, 11:51 AM
mainaman

you can try this one:
http://www.japaneseknifesharpeningst...tCode=SynNag6k

unlike most nagura stones this one is 6k grit and its perfect to make slury on polishing stones.
I am sure Dave will accommodate you with good shipping price.
09-15-2009, 12:37 PM
Lesslemming

well I am thinking of slurrying some 20k+ japanese naturals, and Eshers
6k and tripoly both wouldn´t be good enough

The dmt-card system sounds quite nice. But I am not sure,
because they are just 1mm thick
09-15-2009, 12:53 PM
JimR

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lesslemming

well I am thinking of slurrying some 20k+ japanese naturals, and Eshers
6k and tripoly both wouldn´t be good enough

The dmt-card system sounds quite nice. But I am not sure,
because they are just 1mm thick

Why do you want to do that?
09-15-2009, 01:07 PM
JimmyHAD

I've also got a D4E "Diamond Sharpening Stone" in a couple of different grits for sharpening pocket knives. These are 4" long and 1/4" thick x 7/8" wide. They are pretty handy to have around and come in coarse, fine and extra fine. They call it a 'stone' but it is a piece of steel with the plating and the embedded diamonds like their larger plates we know and love.
09-15-2009, 02:00 PM
Smokintbird

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lesslemming

well I am thinking of slurrying some 20k+ japanese naturals, and Eshers
6k and tripoly both wouldn´t be good enough

The dmt-card system sounds quite nice. But I am not sure,
because they are just 1mm thick

What exactly are you trying to accomplish? faster polishing? I think faster is not as good as the slower route for polishing, it tends to make the edge a bit less sharp, smooth but less sharp.

If you want a slurry on a finishing stone, why not just get some super fine powder and dust a wet stone?

I have used Linde A compound on a Chinese hone, and produced a MUCH smoother edge than I had with the Chinese hone and water....the Linde A is a 0.3 micron "sapphire powder" which is better known as Aluminum Oxide.....Of course you could always use chrox, cerium oxide, diamond powder, any high grit honing powder from ebay, or whatever else and get a similar result.
09-15-2009, 02:20 PM
JimmyHAD

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smokintbird

If you want a slurry on a finishing stone, why not just get some super fine powder and dust a wet stone?

Good idea. There is a video somewhere of Bart honing with chrom ox on a BBW. I've seen others suggest the chrom ox on the chinese 12k but I've not tried any myself.

Other than the Escher, coticule or bbw I've done without the slurry. As Christopher and others have said slurry is sort of a two edged sword. IOW, it will cut faster but dulls the edge somewhat requiring more work with the water only. It has it's place but I only use it if I feel I need it. YMMV
09-15-2009, 02:49 PM
mainaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lesslemming

well I am thinking of slurrying some 20k+ japanese naturals, and Eshers
6k and tripoly both wouldn´t be good enough

The dmt-card system sounds quite nice. But I am not sure,
because they are just 1mm thick

I am confused, DMT is a diamond plate, it does not get thinner with time, just eventually(after a loong time) the diamond coating will wear off.
09-15-2009, 05:09 PM
Lesslemming

no, I am not worried the dmt will wear down, but I am worried it will eventually get sucked to the hone and I have a hard time getting it off,
because at 1mm I think theres nothing to grab (that was my initial question)

The reason I want to slurry up the hones is... well why not?
I came to like the slurry feeling and sometimes it gives me a better edge than without.
My esher for example, a very, very thin slurry improved the edge, for me.
This doesn´t work on my bbw, of course.
But considering that I am going to buy a j-nat;
I always slurried those. This enhances the feeling I get when honing.
It´s not to speed things up, wich it does, but rather to make it more enjoyable.
I can always finish without slurry, afterwards.

The polishing compound on a hone, I don´t like that.
It´s like I am stropping on the chromium oxide.
I did it with a C12k and Ironoxide (0.09µm) and I didn´t like it.
It´s just not a slurry, it´s coloured abrasive water,
if you get me :p

I tried to get one of the smaller DMT hones in extra fine,
but they don´t carry them in germany.
All I can get is 600 wich I feel would be too coarse for my purpose.

I have been experimenting with slurries alot these days
and I came to apreciate it. I don´t do it with every hone,
but I like it on my Naniwa SS 10k.
It fastenes things up, and after 10 more regular water X-strokes I get a nice silent hht
09-15-2009, 05:23 PM
hi_bud_gl

Everything depends what type final finishing hone do you have?
you can use in any Escher's and Some nakayama(don't have many of them) chinese 12 . Someone sells in classified cheap. what happens chinese 12k is harder then most finishing hones that is why slurry comes off from hone not chinese stone.
Another choose dmt 1200 is a risky i wouldn't do that . at first it is fine but when time goes one dmt shows off it is - characters.
nagura don't use it . it is very course then most final finish hones. hope this helps.
09-15-2009, 05:46 PM
0livia

Benny what if you bend the credit card dmt a little?
I hate that "sucking onto" phenomenon as well, so I try to round my rubbers off a little or use them with their chamfered edge.
09-15-2009, 07:28 PM
Lesslemming

damn, so I have to make descissions again :gaah:
Well maybe I try what olivia said and look how it turns out
09-15-2009, 08:14 PM
JimmyHAD

Not long ago I bought an old Norton barber hone that came in the box with a rubbing stone and instructions. I am at work now so I cannot post a photo.

The instructions said not to lay the rubbing stone flat when creating slurry. Rather to use the edge. So I have begun to do this with all of my slurry stones.

In the case of the credit card diamond plate 'slurry stone' I am holding it at 30 or 40 degrees rather than rubbing the plate flat on the hone. No stiction and works well.
09-15-2009, 08:24 PM
zib

I didn't read all the other replies, but If your getting a Japanese Natural, I wouldn't even consider rubbing a DMT on it to build a slurry. I have a Nakayama I got from O_S, and it came with a slurry stone which I hardly use. It's a finisher, and I don't mind doing a few extra stokes. If you need to use a slurry, use a lower grit stone. If you take a DMT diamond plate to your expensive Japanese nat. everytime you use, your just wasting expensive hone...Don't do that....
09-15-2009, 09:13 PM
Neil Miller

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lesslemming

no, I am not worried the dmt will wear down, but I am worried it will eventually get sucked to the hone and I have a hard time getting it off,
because at 1mm I think theres nothing to grab (that was my initial question)

I haven't seen one of those credit-card size DMTs - are they coated on both sides? If they aren't, you could always epoxy glue a block of wood or something to it...?
09-15-2009, 09:46 PM
Lesslemming

thanks jimmy, DMT credit card it is for me. I will buy one :)

thanks zib, unfortunately I had to justify slurrying earlyer in this post.
I just don´t see any reason why NOT to do, or at least try it.
It is not true that it´s a waste of hone. I am not going to rubb a 320 grit stone over the surface all the time,
I think it would take a loooong time to use up a 3cm thick stone with a 1.2k credit card. I slurried my suitas for years now and not even my tiny suita slurry-stone made of a small piace of suita is used up. Not a bit.
Overly lapping is a waste of hone, slurrying certainly is not.
But I understand your points of view and respect them
and thank you all for giving me the informations that I needed to decide