The Art of slurry...

I have noticed a ton of questions recently on Slurries and various finishers, and I have been meaning to write this for quite awile... Keep in mind these are just tricks I use, you can try them out for yourselves and see if you can get them to work for you..


When do slurries work??? what stones do they work on???

Simply put I have used slurries on every stone I have except two types, Barber's Hones and Arkansas stones...

They work from Bevel set to Finishing...

They are also pretty much not needed, but learning to use them can make life much easier and more interesting...

I use mainly two ways of raising slurries...

First choice is my DMT 325 I do about 5 figure 8's and I get a slurry and a clean, flat stone, to work on...
Second choice is a 4x1.5 fine Arkansas stone that works really well to raise a fast slurry on just about everything...

Pretty much I start on the 1k's with a fast cutting slurry for bevel sets, yes the synthetics can use slurries too OMG :D
Back when I first started really honing, the Norton 4/8 was THE stone.. Some really cool guys like Lynn even had these mysterious wondrous stones called Eschers and Coticules :)
But I remember learning that by raising a slurry on the 4k Norton I could do way more with that stone..
Then I added the 220/1k to my arsenal as I started restoring razors and learned that a bit of slurry on the 220 made the chores of "bad edges on wedges" go by faster yes, but the bevel came out much smoother too...
I of course started playing with slurries on the 1k and those work too...

I learned about "training" naturals with my first Coticule, and I have used the system of raising a very light slurry for the first 20 stokes on every natural finisher I have added since..

When I got the Shapton set I even played with light slurries on that 1k, and had some really fun times with the Naniwa SS's and slurries...

Japanese stones are a whole different animal with slurries and it took about 100 razors before I got really comfortable using them on my Nakayama...

Coticules of course have been covered extensively along with their Belgium Blue brother..

Even the Chinese stone can be slurried up to get different effects out of them...

I tell you if you have a Thuringen and you haven't tried starting with a slurry and diluting out to clear water you are missing a buttery smooth edge..

But really like I said in the beginning, slurries are not necessary or required on most stones, but they do add an interesting twist to honing...
One other thing they can help you with, is the proverbial "Brick Wall" when a razor stumps you on a stone, and you can't seem to get traction on a hone just try a light slurry on that stone and see if that doesn't help just a bit :) :)


I hope this helps some...

Note: that I put this in the advanced section, slurries are a tool, you should learn first how to hone, then start playing with them..

What is 'training' a natural whetstone?

So is the idea, say, on the 1K Norton, to use your DMT like you are lapping the stone, and then leaving the mix of crud and water on the stone while otherwise using the usual honing strokes? When that drains off the stone, do you slurry it up again?

I have a razor that for no reason I can discern just doesn't want to take a bevel, and I am thinking this might be worth trying.

Thanks for posting this. "Find out what's up with slurries" was near the top of my "To Do" list in my straight-razor education.

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Originally Posted by LawsonStone

So is the idea, say, on the 1K Norton, to use your DMT like you are lapping the stone, and then leaving the mix of crud and water on the stone while otherwise using the usual honing strokes? When that drains off the stone, do you slurry it up again?

I have a razor that for no reason I can discern just doesn't want to take a bevel, and I am thinking this might be worth trying.

Thanks for posting this. "Find out what's up with slurries" was near the top of my "To Do" list in my straight-razor education.

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Other then the "Crud" part yes you have it :D That crud is steel, you don't want that in there, just like you don't want it in/on the top of the stone when honing...

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Originally Posted by Jasongreat

What is 'training' a natural whetstone?

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Exactly what is written there, instead of just using water and a natural stone as a finish I always use a light slurry for the first 20 laps, I actually do 10 laps then dilute and do 10 more then rinse to clear,,, This system "trains" that edge to that natural stone IMO... These things are tricks you have to try yourself some might work for you, and your stone, then again it might be of no help at all...
To me consistency is the key to honing, I have to feel that what I am doing is working, and repeatable, otherwise I change things up...

Sorry about the "crud!"

Seriously, though, is the idea that I use the DMT for several strokes on the 1K until that mixture forms...but then what? I assume the mixture is partly from the DMT, partly from the stone...what happens next...

...then again...I probably should not be asking such a 101 type question in the "Advanced" Honing forum!

There is no part of the DMT, and if there is, they are much smaller than the stone particles so there are of no consequence... Slurries can be made using a surface like the DMT that don't release particles or with a Rubber/Nagura that does... Even what you make the slurry with can add a variable...

Then Hone with that slurry, the same as you would have without but check the edge more often, and dilute it out as you get closer...
The slurry acts as a force multiplier....it increases cutting power, on the lower grits, and also seems IMO to even up the finish faster... On the higher grits the evening up aspect, is what I am after, that seems to get me a smoother edge...


Keep in mind that all these variables are what caused huge problems with the Coticule threads,,, Slurries are tools, or as Jimmy likes to say just another arrow in the quiver... just the thickness you started with and how you dilute them can change my results from yours... That is why I put it in the advanced section :D

Many thanks! Seems like every time I come to this site I am getting some serious education. I'm grateful!

I'm pleased that I use slurries in much the same way as you do, Glen. I don't use them often these days, but they are a useful addition, or change of routine.

I too have noticed that using a slurry when first encountering a new stone up the progression will dial in the edge to that stone & enable you to successfully push the wave ahead of the blade with fewer laps than when using water alone.

Another aspect is the thickness of them. With a BBW I'll start will a very heavy slurry, but for the finishing stones, it has to be thin right from the outset.

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Originally Posted by ben.mid

I too have noticed that using a slurry when first encountering a new stone up the progression will dial in the edge to that stone & enable you to successfully push the wave ahead of the blade with fewer laps than when using water alone.

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I agree, I think that is the "evening up" I was talking about, it seems to get the sides of the bevel all nice and even faster, which I think would correlate with your observation of the wave flowing correctly faster Ben...:)

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Originally Posted by gssixgun

I have noticed a ton of questions recently on Slurries and various finishers, and I have been meaning to write this for quite awile...
....snip...

Simply put I have used slurries on every stone I have except two types, Barber's Hones and Arkansas stones...
....snip...

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Good post....

I might add that a light smear of white toothpaste (not green or blue gel)
on a barber hone works nicely.

A very light touch of very fine carborundum powder on
an Arkansas can wake an Arkie up. The only place
I ever found to get the "fine enough" stuff was from
a telescope grinding kit and is hard to find in small
quantities today (I ground my mirror in the early '60s
and the extra lasted a long time).

I played around with using slurry on my naniwa SS 8k last night. This was a blade that was close, but not quite there.

I built a slurry, diluted to water, then did about 15 strokes water only. I know only the edge matters, but the bevel looked nice and pretty under the scope and the shave was great.

Glen I sure agree with the smooth edge you get with a vintage Thuringian or Escher working from medium slurry down to water only. It's the best edge I've ever experienced!

Slurry is great stuff!
I always use slurry on my 1k, then do a few laps with no slurry before I continue on with the progression.
On my finisher always slurry diluted to water.

I wish I could click "THANK" for this whole thread. I have had a razor that "should" have honed up perfectly. A stray from a 7 Day set, a Solingen "Feinster Silberstahl" but no other makers mark on it. I call it "Sunday."

It was the first razor I ever bought on eBay. It was tarnished, some rust, some crud…I tried many times to hone this razor but it just wouldn't shave. So I decided to use it just for learning restoration--cleaning, sanding, that stuff. Popped it out of the scales which accidentally survived the operation. After sanding, wiping, Q-tips, still nasty looking....I put the blade in my vibratory tumbler for a few days. It came out gleaming! I then put it back in its original scales, dull as a butter knife, having defeated my ever effort to hone it.

I read this thread, and decided to try two things: a layer of tape on the spine, and slurry. I put a single strip of tape on the spine, pulled out the Norton 1K and worked up a good slurry on the surface and proceeded to use circling alternating with X strokes and BEHOLD...an edge began to appear!

Staying with the tape, I worked up the sequence of 4K, 8K, then Naniwa 12K, each stone starting with a thick slurry and letting it thin down to clear water. Finally, a gave it a light stropping on fabric sprayed with green CrOx, then plain linen, then Premium III leather.

And....it shaves! Nice and smooth, as good as any razor in my rotation!

Thanks for showing me how to add this outstanding technique to my honing!

Below is a before and after pic:

That's one thing about honing it's a never ending learning process which is one reason it's so much fun:-)

I thought I was the only one on the forum that used Slurry on his norton 4/8k combination hone! lol :mace:

Slurry is great, on every single hone I have used I have used Slurry. Slurry even smells good...:fim:

Heck no Nick I use slurry on every stone I have:-) It works!

Great minds? Lol!:beer2:

LOL----There ya go:-)

What about the Barber Hones, the Swatys, Carborundums and such? Same thing, thicker slurry diluted as honing progresses?

barber hones are used for touching up a razor that may be starting to pull on your beard, not for honing in full from bevel to sharpening to finishing.

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Originally Posted by name

What about the Barber Hones, the Swatys, Carborundums and such? Same thing, thicker slurry diluted as honing progresses?

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Barber Hones, the Swatys, Carborundums to not build a slurry unless they
are breaking down or someone is using them wrong. They wear slowly, almost not at all.

It is the rare Barber hone that finishes as well as a Norton 4/8K combo can.
None in my collection of ten or so finish as well as my 12K Naniwa Super Stone.

But they feel right in the hand and look cool in the shave den and
they often do a fine job touching up a razor when used just a little
with a light touch and lather.

I might add that a white toothpaste with fluoride seems to clean, tighten up
and polish the surface of redish ceramic barber hones in a good way. Toothpaste
today is not a strong abrasive and is well classified so if you think
your barber hone wants slurry try a little. Toothpaste seems to have
a rating system based on an RDA value (very interesting test).

Toothpaste Abrasion Ratings « Dental Designs of Salt Lake

Electric toothbrush users should know their toothpaste's abrasivity index!

This is interesting, they mention grain shape and patents.
Selecting a Toothpaste for Electric Brushing - What Should You Know About Electric Toothbrushes - Epinions.com

The guys with an experimental mind should look up stokes law.

Have a minty fresh shave. :)

Thanks Tom I was hoping your were going to answer that one :tu

Does anyone progress from slurry to slurry without plain water in between?
as in 1k slurry, then onto 4k slurry, then on to 8k slurry?

i was wondering as i have a broken 4k slip stone that i used to use as a hone (it's about the size of a barbers hone). i've been using it as a slurry stone on other hones (i have no 4k hone at the moment)..

i'm waiting to get my chinese guangxi back, and wondered if i could successfully use my softer 1k, 4k, and 8k slip stones to raise slurries on my larger hard flat c12k and then finish with a c12k slurry, then water.

does this make sense to anyone or sound like less then desirable plan?

the slipstones were cheap, and work well (when not broken, grrrrr...) but a larger surface would be nice sometimes.

more or less honing with slurry, but without the hone, in a way, i guess.

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Originally Posted by ezpz

Does anyone progress from slurry to slurry without plain water in between?
as in 1k slurry, then onto 4k slurry, then on to 8k slurry?

i was wondering as i have a broken 4k slip stone that i used to use as a hone (it's about the size of a barbers hone). i've been using it as a slurry stone on other hones (i have no 4k hone at the moment)..

i'm waiting to get my chinese guangxi back, and wondered if i could successfully use my softer 1k, 4k, and 8k slip stones to raise slurries on my larger hard flat c12k and then finish with a c12k slurry, then water.

does this make sense to anyone or sound like less then desirable plan?

the slipstones were cheap, and work well (when not broken, grrrrr...) but a larger surface would be nice sometimes.

more or less honing with slurry, but without the hone, in a way, i guess.

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ezpz,
I hope I'm not speaking out of turn. If I understand you correctly, the purpose of rinsing your stone and finishing with water only is to enhance the keenness of the edge. You do not want to cross contaminate between slurries on stone surfaces.
When I use my high end finishing stones during the final honing progression, I clean and capture the slurry off the razor on a special strop I have made. When this of amalgam of coticle, J-nats, Escher and metal particle slurry dries on the strop it creates a very fine buffing compound. I’ve been experimenting and I hope this helps.

Mike:)

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Originally Posted by ezpz

Does anyone progress from slurry to slurry without plain water in between?
as in 1k slurry, then onto 4k slurry, then on to 8k slurry?
...snip...
.

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I have done this. Just be sure to wipe the razor clean when
switching to a finer hone. I embrace the natural slurry....
I do not use a slurry stone on my Norton or Naniwa hones.

a 1k with slurry does the 1k thing quicker than without.
a 4k with slurry does the 4k thing quicker than without.
an 8k with slurry does the 8k thing quicker than without.

IMO, The last finisher should be without for the sharpest edge
but with my Na12KSS with or without slurry I get a "fine for my face"
edge so I do not worry about diluting it to clear water.
Slurry all the way can work and the last bit of sharp can
be had by diluting the slurry of the last hone to clear water...

Try it -- your shave test will tell you the true answer.

yes, i wasnt suggesting mixing slurries, (although, for the truly brave working with naturals there may be some sense in trying, for example i have no BBW slurry stone, but another stone that i sometimes use to raise a slurry on the softer BBW)

and once i have my stones back i will give it a go. seems like a hard cheap finisher like a quality c12k, and a set of smaller slurry stones may be the cheapest way to go. *shrug*

Mixing slurries is fun. I have actually used a BBW slurry stone before on my Norton combo with good results to see if it would work faster, there definitely was a difference...

FWIW also honing a SS blade or a Chrome covered bevel blade like a Clauss can be a pain in the arse and raisiing a slurry on the Norton with a DMT320 Grit does the trick great. That's once the bevel is set that is, which slurry helps with too!

YouTube - Razor Sharpening


If you use slurry at all, try this "Pigtail Stroke"
I have pointed it out before but wanted to add it to this thread...

I have watched that vid probably a dozen times since we met in Spokane.

BTW I spent some time playing last night with slurries and I have to say that the slurries on my naniwas don't smell as good as Glen's naturals. I love that earthy scent. Oh! I will have to see if Al will make me a slurry scented cream!

I was recently given a BBW and I have to say it smelled much better. Oh and shaves like a dream right off the stone.

-G