What might, ".. after treatment...", mean in this description?

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...d=200945354824

I have seen these on eBay before and so not sure if it is the same ones not selling or multiple lots. In the description it reads something like, "... after treatment these blades can look like the ones in the third from last picture...", and I'm wondering about insight others may have.

I can hand polish, pop, re-pin and re-scale (NOT make scales, just use a donor set) as well as hone razors to my level of Shave Ready so am curious if that is all that is needed here or if the "after treatment" thing means 'steel specific stuff' that I likely do not have the gear for or cannot do. He describes RH so, to me, that sounds like the steel has been tempered/hardened/etc and just needs polish, scaled and honed but I always enjoy the information here and learn from it even when it is bad news. ;-)

Thanks in advance for any information!

Shawn
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hand sanding with 220 to remove some of the pitting if you want. Then wet sand 400, 800, 1000, 1200 or 1500 and buff with diamond compound and chromeox; or you can hand sand all the way to 12k grit then polish with some metal polishing compound, then slap some scales on them. If you're hand sanding, look up alphaabrasives, you can find their stuff at hobby lobby and online, cheaper than micromesh's stuff and works as well.

I believe these are tempered unfinished blanks. Someone here bought some a while back but that's all I remember.

If I bought a lot like that I would just put scales on them hone them up and shave with them.
I personally like the aging marks on blades it highly prevents rusting from happening.
Some people soak their axes in vineage to stain the metal to prevent it from being able to rust.

Make sure to read the descriptions guys what your seeing is not what you are getting. The pics are stuff this guy did with other blanks.

Those blades as they are now are useless. They have to be ground and tempered. it's not for the do-it-yourselfer. You either need specific equipment and knowledge or you have to send them out for the work. of course you then have to put a finish on the blade and do the bevel and honing too.

Can you ever ever heat treat the by heating them up with a blow torch.
Then once ya get that yellow color dip it used oil or is cold water better cause it cools it faster.
but I kind of thing used fryer oil would have more carbon in it from all the food that ben cooked in it.
I perty sure my dad knows all the steps ya take.
Some say the final steps can be done in a oven.

should one put clay on the spots that you wish for the steel to stay soft.

I looked very close at these razors and it looks to me like there is a lot of grinding left to do. There is no bevel and the edge looks very thick. It could be that they are what you have just before or after heat treating. No way to know. They seller says they are tempered on charcoal to a certain HRC. This does not make sense to me but I am no expert on the vintage ways of razor makers. I have a feeling he found this info somewhere on a finished razor. My gut tells me they are blanks in a sense that they are shaped and ready for the next step. Which would be heat treating.

My fire place is capable of getting steel to get that yellow color to it.
one time I used it burn off the old handle of a old axe.
It made the steel get that yellow color to it.
then I was worried that might have ruined it.
With gloves on my hands to pick up hot stuff I quickly jammed a handle and wedge on it.
it's on there so tight and has such a great feel I love it.
I think it might be able to get that hot cause it was in winter when we let fire in there.
plus I stack it with wood as high as it can go. I placed it in the ambers. So the hot fire sucks in cold air though the air vents
The ambers are what put out lots of heat. Do ya think I ruined the heat treatment on the axe.
If I bid on them should I wait for winter to heat treat them with what's I have. but I would cool the steel right away though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 10Pups

I looked very close at these razors and it looks to me like there is a lot of grinding left to do. There is no bevel and the edge looks very thick. It could be that they are what you have just before or after heat treating. No way to know. They seller says they are tempered on charcoal to a certain HRC. This does not make sense to me but I am no expert on the vintage ways of razor makers. I have a feeling he found this info somewhere on a finished razor. My gut tells me they are blanks in a sense that they are shaped and ready for the next step. Which would be heat treating.

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I wanted to make arrow heads out of bear bottle caps and my dads tells me the steel much too thin to be heat treated. So when folks makes straights they heat treat then hollow grind the edges.
Ben thinking about making me a home made long bow and arrows. And really sharp heads to them.

Suile you have an unorthodox way of doing things. I am not sure these methods would be that forgiving when it come to razors. It's not rocket science but the more precise you are the better chances of success. As for the axe I think you will find out after you start using it again. If the axe splits and not the wood you know you messed up :<0)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 10Pups

Suile you have an unorthodox way of doing things. I am not sure these methods would be that forgiving when it come to razors. It's not rocket science but the more precise you are the better chances of success. As for the axe I think you will find out after you start using it again. If the axe splits and not the wood you know you messed up :<0)

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thanks but no way is to for spiting wood with this axe.
This axe in question is more of a chopping axe. For the cutting of wood against the grain.
If I ruined the temper handle can be burned out to re temper it. Being that I didn't quickly cool the blade if I did any harm it would have
softed the head. Which is good for the eye and the pole. Only the Chopping bits have a harded and fragile steel.
yea I really should worry if I did ruin the temper the steel is thick enough to get it re harded that's never the case with razors.