I think the answer is that Phrank has the market cornered :rofl2:
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I think the answer is that Phrank has the market cornered :rofl2:
Sorry Hart, I lost out on a MB there a while ago...couldn't let this one go as well.
That, and as stated by JimmyWetshaver being this one is Wade only, sans Butcher, I was willing to take a large hit to the wallet.
Not sure if you are game but I've seen your restore work, if you're willing to take on a project for me I'd be very happy to entrust this one to you...?
it was a beautiful looking wade straight razor. i too was watching the bid, but GODDAMN! Over 400 is way out of my league!
What I am guessing is honing is not going to fix the bevel width unless you use 8 layers of tape. It can be honed to shave ready and taking more metal off is not always the answer to get there but if that is what it takes to get the look you want then it's up to who ever owns it.
I agree, it's his to do what he wants with. But why not use the side of a single grit stone, if you use synthetics that is. Or a skinny coticule? Skinny stones can accomplish things that a wide one can't. Just a suggestion. I'd try everything I could do to get it shave ready before I started removing metal.
Haha - I've already been there, friend. Early in my SR shaving career I bid a little more than I should have on an old blade and someone took it for a few dollars over my max - RELIEF!!!!
I'm very pleased that one of our members and someone from Canada as well, has the blade. Don't apologize, you really did save me from myself, it was something I can ill afford at the moment.
I'm immensely flattered with your offer, but I'm purely amateur and pursue restoration as a hobby on my own razors. I'm still at a point where I'm never sure if what I'm doing is going to end well or in disaster.:D There are many here who would be a far better choice.
I did have high hopes though and looked into getting some mammoth ivory for the scales from Canadian Ivory. They don't seem to have anything in an appropriate size right now but they said they would have more in September, if you're interested.
Whatever you choose, let us know how it turns out.
Cheers!
I think you are selling yourself short there Hart :nono:, the work you did on that WB in Oak Crotch is far beyond stunning...Quote:
I'm immensely flattered with your offer, but I'm purely amateur and pursue restoration as a hobby on my own razors. I'm still at a point where I'm never sure if what I'm doing is going to end well or in disaster.:D There are many here who would be a far better choice.
Attachment 172959
Attachment 172960
Truly.
I'm in complete agreement with your choice in scales for this piece, IMHO it would be the perfect compliment for this blade.Quote:
I did have high hopes though and looked into getting some mammoth ivory for the scales from Canadian Ivory. They don't seem to have anything in an appropriate size right now but they said they would have more in September, if you're interested.
Wilco!!Quote:
Whatever you choose, let us know how it turns out.
not sure what you have tried but to hone that one id hold the blade at 45* to the hone (that's 45* to the direction of the honing stroke, not lifting the spine off stone to 45*!) and rock the pressure from heel to toe during the stroke. honing like most things can be thought of in terms of "course, medium, fine." I don't hesitate to do course work on a stubborn heel or (more rarely) toe area, isolating pressure on one spot with an added finger from my second hand. ill go straight up and down the hone staying on the one side and keeping pressure on the spot for 10-15 strokes and then same on the other side. sometimes I do uneven number of strokes between the sides during this "course" part of honing if the cutting edge isn't centered between the bevels properly. I think of this "course" part as "corrective" honing and then the "medium" refines and blends and utilizes my normal honing strokes. then the "fine" is just polishing what is already established, no further correction should be made during the "fine" stage of honing. I would even do the corrective "course" homing without tape so you can correct the years of different honing by different users and then put a layer or two of tape on for the medium and fine honing. it speeds things up for me doing it this way and usually ends up with a more attractive result.