Disaster - ruined!

Well - new DOVO 5/8th SR - just had a great shave, best yet using WTG, XTG, and ATG...no razor burn, BBS shave...but noticed more of these white stains on my razor.

I meticulously dry the razor, between the scales, even coat with a the light mineral oil provided by, The Classic Edge Shaving, and store on a stand.

After the last shave, I came down later and the razor now had even more white stains all over the blade!

Of course I immediately went here and searched and found many potential solutions, none of which worked. And after trying various metal polishes, lemon juice etc., I came down later and looked at it an now it was covered with rust spots, the entire blade was dark and cloudy, and it generally looked horrible.

So off it just went back to The Classic Edge for a free re-honing and polishing, also asked the owner Phil for some advice.

Because of this, I am definitely not going to try using my new TI 5/8 Eagle or TI 6/8 Spartacus (w/ faux MOP scales '-)) until I get to the bottom of this. Sheesh, back to the Mach Fusion Nuclear 10,001 blade disposable cartridge shaver.

Does anyone have any ideas on how I completely screwed the pooch on this and how I can prevent this in the future?

Thanks!

Did you happen to take any photos? This sounds very interesting indeed.

Hey - thanks for replying!

Sorry, I'm so PO'd I already put it in the mail!

Just imagine a brand new razor, gleaming. Then a couple of weeks later a tiny white splash, the a couple of weeks later more of these blotches now covering both sides of the razor. Then after trying various remedies, the razor now looks like it's been soaked in sour milk, and due to my attempts with various solutions to fix it, now imagine it covered with rust coloured pox marks - an absolute ferkin' disaster!

As I said, not touching my new razors ( loved the look of them, was never sure I would use them anyhow) until I find out how I managed to screw this up so completly...

You may have accidentally started the chemical reaction for a satin finish with the lemon juice!

It sounds like you have the prevantative maintence down so I am not sure where the spots came from in the first place. Is there lots of humidity where you store your razor or did you accidentally splash the blade with something causing the spots?

The good news is that it will buff out unless it is stained but until you get to the source of the problem it may continue to happen. And in the future test an inconspicuous area first before proceeding with any polish or cleanser!

The wiife got tilex on a dovo of mine once and turned the blade white. And splotchy... Could that have happened?

Hahaha - interesting you said that! I read somewhere that Tilex may work, which of course I then tried....doh!

I also wonder if putting my razor, along with my brush, into my scuttle (soap may have mixed in the water area) in boiling water while I showered may have contributed.

Also, when I remember my good old Italian barber Sam, when he could use an actual SR, would never rinse his, he would always wipe the lather from the blade with a tissue or towel?

And yes, for future reference, test just a small area.....

I have city water and had one little spot develop on one of my SR's when I let it air dry after a shave. I have since rinsed all razors with hot water and then wipe off with a towel or microfiber cloth (if there is an etch) between lathers and when finished. On the more positive side you didn't hit the edge on the faucet or slice your strop in half!

I was gonna mention maybe you have really hard water in your area, until I read that you tried Tilex on it... Not a smart move man. Play it safe from now on and just wipe the lather off on a washcloth. What I do and never have any problems. There's no real need to get the razor wet anyway.

Water spots, usually gray or cloudy can occur depending on where your water is coming from. I get 'em. White spots have never happened yet in my neck of the woods. Whoever told you lemon juice was in error. If you want to turn a new carbon steel pocket knife gray cut oranges, lemons, tomatoes.

Keep some metal polish, semichrome, flitz, maas or wenol around. That is one way to protect the blade. Never keep your razor in the bathroom. Always rinse, dry and strop 20 round trips on leather to get out any micro grunge you can't see in the bevel. Keep it out of any moisture prone area.

Thanks for all the help!

Yea, I just about tried everything, Brasso, Mr. Clean Soap scum removing pads, soap scum removing spray, lemon juice...couldn't find the MAAS, wenol or flitz, but read that Brasso could work...needless to say, guess you only learn through mistakes, and boy, as sure as God made little green apples, did I ever royally screw up on this one.

One idea here sounds interesting, not storing my razor in the bathroom. It's supposed to be MY bathroom, but my kids seem to lately feel they can shower, not hang the towels up, nor wipe the sink clean, or like my daughter, test my razor by testing it out on her forearm ("Geez Dad, that things SHARP!"), and forget to turn the vent fan on.


Still seems strange though, one little spot for weeks, months, and then after last shave, bam, like a zombie apocalypse, the invasion of the grey, cloudy stains!

Not even going near new razors till I figure this out, hate that I have to go back to the Mach shaver until the DOVO gets back!


So it sounds like I'm going to have to bring my razor(s) upstairs and store them in my cupboard!

I always wax my razors as well as oiling them. You can get renaissance wax or conservators wax. They seem to do well for me. I'm not sure about soaking it in water in your scuttle though. I've never heard of anyone doing that.

Rinsing the blade with hot water (but I wouldn't go up the tang much past the heel) at the end of the shave, drying with a DRY towel and then stropping to clean and dry the edge are all sound practice. After rinsing and drying I lay a dry section of the towel on my open palm and strop on that for 15 laps and leave the razor open to dry for several hours before oiling and putting away. 3 years in, no water spots.

I think the main reason not to keep razors in your bathroom is because if that's where your shower is, it's just a damp environment. I keep mine in a pipe rack on my dresser.

Rince and dry your razor is OK, but let it dry outside your bathroom before putting oil on it. I mean: even if you dry it, it is not going to be perfectly dry and when you put oil on it the remaining wet is trapped between oil and razor. You must be sure that it's perfectly dry before applying the oil and the only way is to let it stay sometime (15') in a dry place that cannot be your bathroom.

Thanks all...some good sound advice - will do!

I've read a coating of renaissance wax will also help protect the blade...you guys agree with this?

Sheesh - figured I was doing well on the shaving aspect, going slow, no new razors, no honing, just enjoy the journey, and of all things I get sniped by maintenance...just goes to show you!!

What you are describing is almost like cell rot. it's some kind of chemical thing, not a normal occurrence. it almost sounds like a disaster I had once. I had a merkur vision DE and I soaked it in some Clorox and it ate the finish off leaving a grey discoloration and pitting in the metal. Good thing I didn't like the razor to begin with.

I feel for every new SR user when they buy a new razor and get water damage. Even a fingerprint left on a carbon steel blade will eventually cause rust.

Many of us are kitchen knife fanciers and have learned that there are many natural foods and household products which will stain carbon steel immediately on contact, or while in storage. Razors must never touch such products.

I clean, dry, and apply a protective coating after each use making certain that there is no moisture anywhere between the scales. Water is always a hazard to carbon steel razors during shaving and honing. I try to never get water between the scales and if I do, I take immediate action to dr everything immediately.

I hope that your razor can recover its new appearance. After I rinse the blade up to the shank with hot water, wipe dry, and strop on linen and leather, I wipe the razor with mineral oil, or a good gun oil for long storage. I also use Renaissance wax. Be sure that the blade is dry before wiping with protective coatings. Never store razors in a damp environment. Carbon raisors need to be inspected and recoated from time to time.

There is something to be said for good stainless razors such as the vintage Friodurs, which greatly reduce the risk of rust and staining.

HTH

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Phrank

I've read a coating of renaissance wax will also help protect the blade.

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Or paste wax will also work.

These posts amaze me as I NEVER get water spots on ANY of my blades ever.
Never have,rinse the blade in the hottest water your tap can provide,wipe with a tissue, set aside a few mins,the blade will dry itself 100% spot free.
Now,couple thoughts for new users,You get any blood on that blade,it will spot in a heart beat,you get alum on that blade,you will get the same.
JMO

To prevent rust, wipe, don't rinse the blade. Keep it away from your brush, scuttle or other sources of humidity & never put acid on your blade ie lemon juice.

If someone uses the blade on their armhair there is no guarantee their body chemistry will not rust the edge as well.

Don't that blue sanitizing stuff gots some anti rust stuff in it.
Plus it kills all the nasty stuff I don't want to catch in life.
I love it how ya dip something with a tiny dot of rust on it that stuff.
then take it out a few minutes later rust is gone.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Suile

Don't that blue sanitizing stuff gots some anti rust stuff in it.
Plus it kills all the nasty stuff I don't want to catch in life.
I love it how ya dip something with a tiny dot of rust on it that stuff.
then take it out a few minutes later rust is gone.

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what blue stuff??

Barbicide had to get the bottle never can remmber how to spell it.

Germicide
Pseudomonacide
Fungicide
Virucide

And it's Anti rust.

Get yourself an 8 ounce plastic jar with a lid. Fill it with isopropyl alcohol. Add 1 teaspoon
of mineral oil. Secure the lid on the jar. Shake well.

When you're finished shaving, dry the razor with a towel or tissue, strop the razor; then
give the alcohol/oil mixture a good shaking, and dip the blade in the mixture.

The alcohol evaporates, taking any remaining water with it, and the blade is left with
a light coating of mineral oil.

Works like a charm.

Thanks! Will do first thing tomorrow - makes sense!

Appreciate the advice!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PaulKidd

The alcohol evaporates, taking any remaining water with it, and the blade is left with
a light coating of mineral oil.

Works like a charm.

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This is fascinating. I thought alcohol evaporates faster than water which would leave water behind. Anyone better than me at science care to help me out here. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by onimaru55

This is fascinating. I thought alcohol evaporates faster than water which would leave water behind. Anyone better than me at science care to help me out here. :)

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I think you're right. My mistake.

My understanding that due to alcohol being very soluble in water, combined with it's low evaporation temp, allows quicker drying of "wet" items. People use it to get water out of their ears. And it becomes apparent on your fingertips after using it.
But yes you should use as pure as you can, like 91%, to lessen the amount of water in the mixture.

Quote:

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RoyalCake
My understanding that due to alcohol being very soluble in water, combined with it's low evaporation temp, allows quicker drying of "wet" items. People use it to get water out of their ears. And it becomes apparent on your fingertips after using it.
But yes you should use as pure as you can, like 91%, to lessen the amount of water in the mixture.

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Yes. Isopropanol and/or Ethanol will act as a drying agent.

Quote:

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PaulKidd
Rust prevention

Get yourself an 8 ounce plastic jar with a lid. Fill it with isopropyl alcohol. Add 1 teaspoon
of mineral oil. Secure the lid on the jar. Shake well.

When you're finished shaving, dry the razor with a towel or tissue, strop the razor; then
give the alcohol/oil mixture a good shaking, and dip the blade in the mixture.

The alcohol evaporates, taking any remaining water with it, and the blade is left with
a light coating of mineral oil.

Works like a charm.

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Awesome idea.


-Dan

I just rinse it, wipe it w/ a damp towel, rinse again, wipe w/ dry towel. Never had a problem, and I have some seriously hard water here. Main thing is to dry it, let it sit while you dress in your bedroom or humid free environment, then store it out of your bathroom (which will also serve to keep prying hands at bay as well). Keep them in the storage case in your sock drawer if you have to.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Phrank

.....I also wonder if putting my razor, along with my brush, into my scuttle (soap may have mixed in the water area) in boiling water while I showered may have contributed......

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I'm sure I must be misreading this Phrank, but is looks like you are saying you leave the razor in boiling water while you have a shower? Is that right?

Regards,
Neil

Yikes!

I have found that a hot rinse, towel wipe, followed by a wipe with a small cloth saturated with WD40 works even when storing your razors in the bathroom. Never a spot. YMMV etc etc.

Hi Neil - saw some video on using a scuttle, and the guy put his SR in the scuttle with the brush...guess I was I figured that was the thing to do...from your answer, getting the idea that's something NOT to do!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by doktorg

Yikes!

I have found that a hot rinse, towel wipe, followed by a wipe with a small cloth saturated with WD40 works even when storing your razors in the bathroom. Never a spot. YMMV etc etc.

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The keywords here are WD = water displacing . :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by onimaru55

The keywords here are WD = water displacing . :)

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Definitely not recommended - not for a prolonged period of time, anyway.

When I have finished shaving I dip the blade in hot water for 5 - 10 secs to heat the steel a bit, then wipe it down and let it air before stropping it a few times on canvas (cleans and makes sure the bevel is dry) and putting it away.

If you wipe it and then immediately oil it, you are running the risk of trapping a film of water under the oil, with possible oxidation as the result. YOu won't see the 'film' of water - it is held in the small scratches and pores in the steel. You won't even feel that it is there - but it is.

Under magnification the polished surface of the blade looks like a mass of fine scratches, remnants of grind marks, shallow pores, etc - all perfectly capable of trapping water, even after you have wiped the blade - you need to let this film evaporate, which is why its a good idea to let the razor air for a bit in a dry, well ventilated place.

Soapy water isn't a problem, but the fact that soap makes water 'wetter' means it is more able to creep into any crack and crevice.

If you thoroughly dry the blade (wipe, air - blade open is best) and store sensibly, then you will have little need to oil if you use the razor on a regular basis.

Once any pores in the fabric of the steel have been compromised by tarnish some pitting inevitably occurs, even if it is on a small scale and hard to see with the unaided eye, so you will have to take double the care when you get your razor back.

Regards,
Neil

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Neil Miller

Definitely not recommended - not for a prolonged period of time, anyway.

When I have finished shaving I dip the blade in hot water for 5 - 10 secs to heat the steel a bit, then wipe it down and let it air before stropping it a few times on canvas (cleans and makes sure the bevel is dry) and putting it away.

If you wipe it and then immediately oil it, you are running the risk of trapping a film of water under the oil, with possible oxidation as the result. YOu won't see the 'film' of water - it is held in the small scratches and pores in the steel. You won't even feel that it is there - but it is.

Under magnification the polished surface of the blade looks like a mass of fine scratches, remnants of grind marks, shallow pores, etc - all perfectly capable of trapping water, even after you have wiped the blade - you need to let this film evaporate, which is why its a good idea to let the razor air for a bit in a dry, well ventilated place.

Soapy water isn't a problem, but the fact that soap makes water 'wetter' means it is more able to creep into any crack and crevice.

If you thoroughly dry the blade (wipe, air - blade open is best) and store sensibly, then you will have little need to oil if you use the razor on a regular basis.

Once any pores in the fabric of the steel have been compromised by tarnish some pitting inevitably occurs, even if it is on a small scale and hard to see with the unaided eye, so you will have to take double the care when you get your razor back.

Regards,
Neil

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Thanks Neil!

Going to have a shave today with one of my yard sale razors....the Solingen Holeka seems absolutely shave ready! Already stropped it about 20/40, will do 20/50 again before I shave. Since it's from a yard sale, going to follow instructions and soak in Barbicide for 10 minutes to disinfect, rinse clean. Shave, and instead of rinsing razor with hot water every time, going to wipe soap off with tissue (like my old barber used to do), rinse once with hot water, dry with tissue thoroughly, and let air dry.

I'm fairly positive while I was drying thoroughly, I was to quickly applying Tuff-Glide oil and setting aside, thus trapping some water.

Question, I shave about every other day, for that time, sounds like I don't need to oil the razor? Sound correct?

Cheers!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Phrank

Thanks Neil!

I'm fairly positive while I was drying thoroughly, I was to quickly applying Tuff-Glide oil and setting aside, thus trapping some water.

Question, I shave about every other day, for that time, sounds like I don't need to oil the razor? Sound correct?

Cheers!

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Certainly is. Just make sure inside of scales are dry too.

Regards,
Neil

Thanks!

I Always make sure the scales are dry!

Have a good day!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Phrank

I'm fairly positive while I was drying thoroughly, I was to quickly applying Tuff-Glide oil and setting aside, thus trapping some water.

Question, I shave about every other day, for that time, sounds like I don't need to oil the razor? Sound correct?

Cheers!

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I'm going to respectfully disagree with Neil here. :chapeau I guess my mileage has varied on this subject. :)

I've been oiling my razors immediately after a wipe dry for years using a WD type spray tho not WD40. No rust issues.
A good WD type spray will displace water rather than the opposite. That's what they do. ;)

Where you live & how you use & store your razors may colour your opinions on oiling or not. eg I never rinse a blade only wipe it. The most exposure my razors get to plain water is during honing.
It is not uncommon for RH to be in the high 90's here. I can heat a wiped dry blade with a hairdryer & see the rust form immediately, especially if it is a freshly ground restoration.. I'd rather displace any trapped water with an appropriate product immediately & not see the rust . :)

I'd agree with Neil on not using WD40 for longterm storage without a weekly reapplication. There are much better products around which will not dry out or wash off with water.