Standard regime to make a new razor "Shave Ready"

I'm new here so if this is the wrong place for this apologises.
I've been DE shaving for about 2 years now and am slowly moving in to the world of straight razor shaving. I want to learn as much as possible so a question can anyone define a good regime to bring a new shop bought razor to a shave ready condition. I understand that there may be numerous answers to this but a simple one would be appreciated. Do you start with honing and what grade stone, do you finish on finishing hone say a 12k or from a 12k would you then strop with a paste.
Thanks in anticipation and if this is the wrong place maybe someone could move it and let me know the right place

Many people like to do a light touch- up on an extra-fine stone. Me, if it's from a good maker, I just strop it and shave!

There is only one answer at this stage, and that is to have a Pro hone it for you first time around. Learn the shave and the feel of a professional edge first. However, a factory edge shouldn't require much less than an 8k hone, you can always drop down a grade if needs be, and finish on at least 12k for a nice smooth edge. Follow that with stropping on un-pasted linen and leather approx. 50/100 strokes for an initial final polish then maintain with a daily stropping before/after use of 30/60 or there abouts. This advice is only guidelines. You need to work out what your razor needs and how it needs it yourself.


Mick

Thank you I have a shave ready razor from Invisible edge here in the uk, so I'll use that as the benchmark. I've also got a couple of cheap vintage razors off eBay both made in Sheffield to practice honing on hopefully to spare the tears of ruining my brand new razor! I've also just purchased a brand new Dovo basic which is not described as shave ready hence the question.
I guess another question then is when would you use pastes and what types?
This could take a while to understanding all the answers!!!

I have only bought one factory new razor and the edge as supplied was just short of what I would call shave ready but it was shave able after stropping only. All it needed was a light touch up on a 12k Naniwa hone, a few strokes on a Crox pasted balsa strop and a regular stropping, 20/60 linen/leather, to be up to snuff.

It just depends on how far off the factory edge is to start with on how you have to approach it. The same could be said of vintage practice razors. If the edge is really bad you may have to start at 1K to set the bevel and work up from there. In my case that would involve using 3 hones, a 1K, 3K/8K combo and a 12K finisher. If the edge is not too bad I start with 3K on the combo stone.

Bob

usually, an 8k hone is sufficient if you only have new razors and by itself will supply years of excellent shaves, providing you never ding the edge of your razor. think shapton, Norton or even a nice coticle that is really all you may ever need. if you are dealing with 'bay razors regularly you will need more tools such as a 1k and 4k stone. synthetics are your friends as they are more uniform.


as for pastes, I avoid them. for me the hones work much better.

enjoy,
jim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Anthony1954

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I guess another question then is when would you use pastes and what types?
This could take a while to understanding all the answers!!!

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Here lies the personal preference part. Some people like to use only hones, others high k finishing hones then pastes, others lower k hones then pastes and others still use them every day. Most may use them after honing to smooth the edge or for touch ups when a blade just starts to tug.

As for a new razor start on your highest grit hone for a few laps and if improving finish with it. If not as Mick said the 8k as you can do a lot of work with an 8k if you use it right. The best question is what hones do you have and we could give better advice.

Good luck, Ed

Thanks to all, I have all Naniwa super stone hones 12k 8k 5k and 1k. I also have a paddle strop with napped leather, one side has 1m paste the other side has 3m paste. I've sent for some balsa strops together with chromium oxide?? I guess when I get the new DOVO I'll try a shave then if no good move to the 12k and down to 8k if that doesn't work. Should I then strop with pastes and finally with chromium oxide? I'll always finish on linen then leather for which I'm using a 3" hanging strop.
I think I'm getting the message that it's down to the individual and each person maybe has a slightly different regime that works for them, bit like which DE razor and which blade YMMV.
I may have gone a little overboard with the kit but that's just me, part of the enjoyment I guess, you should see where I am with DE shaving both razors and products!!!
My wife is delighted that I've got what she calls a new hobby which will add to the clutter!!

Anthony

I don't think you went too far overboard with all that kit. I got my hones here and there and just should have got them all at the same time to save waiting around for a new needed one to arrive to start another project. I do think you missed a critical item in your list and that is something like a DMT to flatten/lap the hones which will need to be done. Enjoy yourself learning on those practice razors.

Bob

Bob,
Thanks forgot that one, but I also have the large Naniwa lapping stone which I've already used to bring back my 240k/1000k from the dead. This one I only use for my Japanese knives though, but thought I practice lapping this before the really expensive Naniwa's.
Regards
Anthony

Some how I think you're going to do just fine Anthony. And yes, pastes are a personal preference. I stand as one who dis-likes them, preferring instead to keep things as simple as possible.


Mick

I think it may be least expensive to send the razor off to be honed. I'm fortunate to own a lapping stone and Naniwas 1k, 5k, 8k and 12k, but the money I spent on those could have paid to send my razors off for years. If I had it to do over again, I would purchase a Naniwa 12k and a SRD's modular paddle and diamond paste. I think with that simple kit, I could keep a professionally honed razor fresh for a long, long time. Good luck.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BobH

I have only bought one factory new razor and the edge as supplied was just short of what I would call shave ready but it was shave able after stropping only. All it needed was a light touch up on a 12k Naniwa hone, a few strokes on a Crox pasted balsa strop and a regular stropping, 20/60 linen/leather, to be up to snuff.

It just depends on how far off the factory edge is to start with on how you have to approach it. The same could be said of vintage practice razors. If the edge is really bad you may have to start at 1K to set the bevel and work up from there. In my case that would involve using 3 hones, a 1K, 3K/8K combo and a 12K finisher. If the edge is not too bad I start with 3K on the combo stone.

Bob

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This is very true,
I recently acquired a new Dovo with the factory edge and to get what I consider an acceptable edge I had to reset the bevel.

No matter if it's new or vintage you have to access the razor and see what it needs. A new razor may just need a quick touchup on a 12K or higher or it may need the bevel redone. There is no standard really.

Just for your info the 3 micron paste equals an 8k stone and the 1 micron paste equals a 12k stone. Just so you don't end up going backwards.