i just received a new hart steel razor; I stropped it but it still was a rough shave. Do I need to keep stropping or should I hone it before using it??
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i just received a new hart steel razor; I stropped it but it still was a rough shave. Do I need to keep stropping or should I hone it before using it??
Where did you purchase the razor from - was it supposed to be shave ready?
If so, did you try shaving with it before you stropped?
I have a few Harts.
Not only have they all come in with outstanding edges, they seem to stay shave ready for some time and respond very well to basic care.
If you are new to shaving there are a lot of ways to make a shave rough.
Besides the obvious edge issues there is Prep, Stretching (very important) and basic technique.
If you could fill in the blanks we might be able to help. (how long have you been using a straight, what is your routine, how are you stropping etc.)
And the Library & Wiki have a wealth of info to digest...
It's a Marathon, not a sprint, but well worth the time and effort to master..
Smooth Shaving..
I purchased it from classic shaving; I think it was supposed to be shave ready. It was rough before and after stropping. I've been shaving with a Feather replaceable blade straight since May
My Hart was absolutely shave ready upon purchase.
If you have been shaving with a Feather (SS, RG, DX - Fixed or Folding?) then you have the basics.
I shave with both, and the Feather Edge is different than the Hart or any conventional straight for that mater.
For me the trade-off is the Feathers staggering sharpness and ease of maintenance for a more forgiving, "smoother" shave. And this is very YMMV.
First thing I would suggest is you take a look at the edge with a 10 to 30X loupe.
A few years ago there were Hart's that had temper/chippy edge issues - Classic Shaving corrected this quickly at the time.
In fact one of my Hart's is from a friend, who had sent his back to Classic and had it replaced after some edge issues.
He loaned the replacement to me and I later bought it from him when he moved on to his experimental home made Feather blade holder Titanium shave o matics. (another story)
After stropping I often try "tree topping" the hair on my arm. Holding the blade parallel to my arm I pass the razor over the top 1/2 to 1/3 of the length of the arm hair. If the top of the blade has clippings, and that works at any point of the blade, I am good to go.
Lifting the spine off of the strop is probably the #1 new shaver problem along with using the edge as the pivot point in the turn rather than the spine.
Unlike the Feather, a conventional Straight needs pre and post shave care in order to stay in top form.
Hope that helps even a little.
Smooth Shaving...
Ok, if you are asking this question...you don't need to be honing anything right now. I don't mean to insult, but you need to learn to shave first and a veteran shaver KNOWS if a razor is off or not. Learn to shave, then learn to touch up, then learn to hone. Like mentioned above, take your time and enjoy the journey...your face will thank you.
If you wish, you could mail it to me and I will evaluate the edge and report back to you privately. If it needs a honing, I will hone it, ensure it's to my standards, and get it back to you with a known shave ready edge as all you would do with it is wipe the oil off it and shave. Just cover the return shipping cost.
I bet it's my poor stropping technique---your advice was very helpful
Hey Fabe, Can you think of anyplace else where experienced Hart shavers help like this? Including offer of free honing? I've not tasted a quality shavette, but if I ever consider it, I'll need your help. Shooter's been at this long enough to know a good edge. I'd seriously consider taking him up on his offer. Harts are fine razors - liked each I honed & tested. They'll be pretty different from any full hollow - and I'd presume any shavette. The heavy grinds should be rather friendly. You get this edge dialed in, and you'll probably be a pretty happy guy. On stropping, the top of my bald head remembers the date 3/11 for Glen's beginner's tips on stropping. The only way to beat it would be to get w/ an experienced guy & have him watch you strop (on an unhoned blade). The last 3 guys that came to my place were all surprised to find how little pressure is needed. This is especially true on a freshly honed edge - that's when its most fragile. You'll be enjoying Hart goodness soon.
And we have all been there at one point in the process - don't beat yourself up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabe60
As pinklather mentions most are surprised at how low the pressure needs to be when the form is correct.
This reminds us how quickly we can damage the edge by say dragging the edge on the nylon webbing material used for the fabric of many strops.
Fortunately unless you have been also using your new Hart as a pry bar, paint scrapper, slim jim or screw driver...it can be brought back to form in short order.
Take Shooter up on his offer, use your Feather while the Hart is visiting Oklahoma and you will soon be on your way...
Smooth Shaving is not far away...
My Hart was tuggy out of the box. A five minute touch up got it going for a few months without another.
touch up stropping or hone?
Five minutes on a finishing hone, then strop. Then properly shaving.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabe60
My Hart was not shave ready out of the box. More like bevel set, end of process. Stropping, as you say you have, after the first shave attempt did not improve the edge. Honing 4K, 8K, and 12K set a very nice edge on it. As it was my first razor and I didn't realize what was going on until I bought a second properly honed razor, it caused a lot of grief for me.
What did you end up doing?
Depends on the person that made it I guess. My Hart is fairly new and came out of the box wickedly sharp. A bit more than shave ready actually, I was extremely surprised with how sharp it was. I have a new standard to strive for. I only have two razors. A Boker was my first purchase and it was honed by a well known honemeister. It was very shave ready when I got it. The Hart was far sharper. The bevel was more aesthetic for me on the Hart. Equal on both sides (perhaps a 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch and perfectly straight), easy to see, and polished to an extreme degree; under a 10x loupe I could only just see the scratches.
Doubtless it will take me a long while to learn to hone and strop this well. The Hart is also easy to maintain with a pasted strop. So I think it comes down to the skill of the person who made / honed the Hart you get. I'm glad I lucked out, because I have a standard to strive for now.
Best,
Ed