Newbie Needs Opinion

Hello everyone,
I am a newbie in here and I have some questions to ask. I bought a SR couple months ago and tried it, went okey. I hadn't used straight in a row until last weekend(I do now), I had been using straight once a week instead(I've been a DE shaver for nearly one year). Up to now I have approx. 10 shaves under my belt. I can shave without much problem so far, but I decided to use only straight from now on(not even touch up with my DE).
My technique has improving and I can get DFS everytime, one WTG+2XTGs are enough most of the time.
My first problem is when I go XTG(ear to chin) I always get small nicks and sometimes get small cuts because of wrong grip/pressure combo(I think). I watched so many videos and read dozens of journals but still have not found the right grip for XTG especially in jawline. Can anyone advise me on that?
Second question is I have three straight razors from different sources(all came shave ready) I like using all of them in rotation but all of them has different characteristics, one of them is quarter hollow/near wedge and the others are hollow and the edges are different. Shall I shave with one only until I get used to it and then switch to others? or It does not make a huge different to getting used to straight shaving you may say? Because I want to use all of them in rotation to maintain their edges for a relatively long time an I love all my razors.

Thanks in advance.

G'day and welcome to SRP
Xtg try using less pressure, the theory is to shave the lather off not the hair or skin and keep your skin stretched tight helps a lot
I only shave right handed so I use some over arm monkey looking strokes sometimes it is all a matter of finding your own preference via trial and error I think, I also use a straight Kamisori type grip for my left side neck to jaw area also.
When I started I used 1 srt8 for a good week or so (I shave every 2nd day) to get used to it then move to the next for,similar number of shave worked best for me
Either way take your time and enjoy the learning curve

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Originally Posted by Substance

G'day and welcome to SRP
Xtg try using less pressure, the theory is to shave the lather off not the hair or skin and keep your skin stretched tight helps a lot
I only shave right handed so I use some over arm monkey looking strokes sometimes it is all a matter of finding your own preference via trial and error I think, I also use a straight Kamisori type grip for my left side neck to jaw area also.
When I started I used 1 srt8 for a good week or so (I shave every 2nd day) to get used to it then move to the next for,similar number of shave worked best for me
Either way take your time and enjoy the learning curve

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Thanks for the reply, I will try different grips with almost no pressure when I go XTG pass.

Hi. Sounds like you're doing well. Have you mapped your beard growth? It's possible what you think is XTG is actually ATG. Try very short very light strokes. I don't normally do a XTG pass; normally it's just a WTG. At times it's a WTG and a ATG. For the ATG pass I hold the razor very lightly, with just two fingers; and use very short very light buffing strokes. I also use a weaker lather for the second pass when I do one; I add more water to the original lather mix. This allows a 'slicker' lather. It's actually possible that by the time you come to do your XTG pass your lather has thickened a little; so try adding a little bit of water.

I like the idea of rotating razors; I rotate 6 generally; using each one once a week. However, imagine learning to drive a car and using a different car each day. It'd be confusing, wouldn't it? I'd choose one razor for now (the one you find easiest to strop and shave with) and use that until you feel you have enough confidence to start using different razors.

To get the right grip you really just need to grab a dinner knife; stand in front of the mirror and experiment. Don't be afraid to make up your own grip. Also, if you find a grip that seems a bit weird, don't hesitate to post a photo. We may have tried that grip already and be able to advise on the positives and negatives.

Carl

Thank you Carl, you are definitely right about face mapping and I will be more careful about beard grow directions. And I thought same as you, I need to pick one of my razors and go on with it for a while.

My beard grows In all sorts of crazy directions. XTG, ATG, and WTG without changing the travel of the blade. The key I have found for the cheeks is proper stretching. Not only do you need your skin tight but flat. I pull my ear for the first inch then with fingers that have just rubbed an alum block pull up and away from travel. Light to no pressure strokes. I also will open my Jaw and use that to pull skin taught.

As far as different razors go. The _ADs got me early. Life would have been simpler had I purchased 2 if the same razors but where is the fun in that.

I echo Carl's thoughts on growth direction.
I personally don't do against the grain on my face. I usually do (unless I'm just doing a quick one pass shave) a pass with the grain, and then a with the grain/diagonal J-type stroke from my sideburns (just above mid-ear) to my chin, and then an across the grain from chin to ear on one side, and from ear to chin on the other (that's the direction that my hair grows).
My neck is a little different however. A downstroke on the left side will get my skin smooth, however to get that same smoothness, I need to do an upstroke on the right side. That's the only upstroke style against the grain that I do, and only because I have to. I say "upstroke style against the grain" because growth direction is a factor in what's actually against the grain.

Don't get stuck on feeling like you have to do against the grain like it's a formula...there's no universal WTG+XTG+ATG=CORRECTSHAVE.

I also echo using the razor that you have best results with until you have enough shaves under your belt to feel more comfortable with a straight. It will help you better focus on technique. Things like skin stretching, prep and stropping are all essential.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chinaski

Hello everyone,
I am a newbie in here and I have some questions to ask. I bought a SR couple months ago and tried it, went okey. I hadn't used straight in a row until last weekend(I do now), I had been using straight once a week instead(I've been a DE shaver for nearly one year). Up to now I have approx. 10 shaves under my belt. I can shave without much problem so far, but I decided to use only straight from now on(not even touch up with my DE).
My technique has improving and I can get DFS everytime, one WTG+2XTGs are enough most of the time.
My first problem is when I go XTG(ear to chin) I always get small nicks and sometimes get small cuts because of wrong grip/pressure combo(I think). I watched so many videos and read dozens of journals but still have not found the right grip for XTG especially in jawline. Can anyone advise me on that?
Second question is I have three straight razors from different sources(all came shave ready) I like using all of them in rotation but all of them has different characteristics, one of them is quarter hollow/near wedge and the others are hollow and the edges are different. Shall I shave with one only until I get used to it and then switch to others? or It does not make a huge different to getting used to straight shaving you may say? Because I want to use all of them in rotation to maintain their edges for a relatively long time an I love all my razors.

Thanks in advance.

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BTW, your first name isn't Henry is it? LOL

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Originally Posted by JTmke

My beard grows In all sorts of crazy directions. XTG, ATG, and WTG without changing the travel of the blade. The key I have found for the cheeks is proper stretching. Not only do you need your skin tight but flat. I pull my ear for the first inch then with fingers that have just rubbed an alum block pull up and away from travel. Light to no pressure strokes. I also will open my Jaw and use that to pull skin taught.

As far as different razors go. The _ADs got me early. Life would have been simpler had I purchased 2 if the same razors but where is the fun in that.

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Thanks my friend, I have some tricks to try thanks to all of you. Skin stretching and flattening is little bit difficult because I have big cheekbones. I will give it a try. And you are right about "Life would have been simpler had I purchased 2 if the same razors but where is the fun in that."

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Originally Posted by kwlfca

I echo Carl's thoughts on growth direction.
I personally don't do against the grain on my face. I usually do (unless I'm just doing a quick one pass shave) a pass with the grain, and then a with the grain/diagonal J-type stroke from my sideburns (just above mid-ear) to my chin, and then an across the grain from chin to ear on one side, and from ear to chin on the other (that's the direction that my hair grows).
My neck is a little different however. A downstroke on the left side will get my skin smooth, however to get that same smoothness, I need to do an upstroke on the right side. That's the only upstroke style against the grain that I do, and only because I have to. I say "upstroke style against the grain" because growth direction is a factor in what's actually against the grain.

Don't get stuck on feeling like you have to do against the grain like it's a formula...there's no universal WTG+XTG+ATG=CORRECTSHAVE.

I also echo using the razor that you have best results with until you have enough shaves under your belt to feel more comfortable with a straight. It will help you better focus on technique. Things like skin stretching, prep and stropping are all essential.

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You are right, there is no certain correct shave method and everyone consider to their skin's health.
I don't do ATG anymore since I got great close shaves with my DE and I don't get stuck the BBS everyday(used to/not anymore). So far so good WTG+XTG passes are enough but I can't live with only WTG because I'm heavy bearded man.
I will continue to do with the grain and then try to correct stretching and right direction for across the grain.
Thanks for everything again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by OCDshaver

BTW, your first name isn't Henry is it? LOL

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Mine is not but the name of the character I was inspired long ago is Henry. You got the novel, didn't you?

Hi everyone: I would have started a new thread, but don't know how.

- - - Thus, this question : All straight razors have a thick spine that prevents getting a thin cutting edge if you sharpen it on a stone.
- - - Why is this ? Is there a certain angle that is best for shaving ? It should be noted that purchased blades for straight razors are extremely thin . . . . so again, why is this ? I have tried everything I can think of on my 4000/8000 stone and am unable to shave with it.

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Originally Posted by Barry2

Hi everyone: I would have started a new thread, but don't know how.

- - - Thus, this question : All straight razors have a thick spine that prevents getting a thin cutting edge if you sharpen it on a stone.
- - - Why is this ? Is there a certain angle that is best for shaving ? It should be noted that purchased blades for straight razors are extremely thin . . . . so again, why is this ? I have tried everything I can think of on my 4000/8000 stone and am unable to shave with it.

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Pick a forum that best fits and click on the thread starter

your question is why you can't get a shaveable edge? Try going to the honing forum. Was your razor shave ready when you bought it? Are you honing with just the weight of the blade? Is the entire blade flat on the hone? Is your 4/8 flat? What sharpness tests are you using?

there are lots of threads to help you on your honing journey.

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Originally Posted by JTmke

Pick a forum that best fits and click on the thread starter

your question is why you can't get a shaveable edge? Try going to the honing forum. Was your razor shave ready when you bought it? Are you honing with just the weight of the blade? Is the entire blade flat on the hone? Is your 4/8 flat? What sharpness tests are you using?

there are lots of threads to help you on your honing journey.

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- - - I don't know whether it was shave ready when I bought it, I just assummed that it was not and went ahead with the 4000 and the 8000. The stones are brand new and flat and the only test for me is whether I can use it to shave.

- - - Another question/observation in addition to the ones in my previous post is that the so-called "heel" or horizontal stabilizer will not allow the blade to sit flat on the stone at that end of the blade ie. the end closest to the handle. It is therefore a flat-out impossibility for the blade to sit flat on the stone, unless one grinds it off. And I hasten to add that I also have stropped it up to 100 strokes on each side.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chinaski

You are right, there is no certain correct shave method and everyone consider to their skin's health.
I don't do ATG anymore since I got great close shaves with my DE and I don't get stuck the BBS everyday(used to/not anymore). So far so good WTG+XTG passes are enough but I can't live with only WTG because I'm heavy bearded man.
I will continue to do with the grain and then try to correct stretching and right direction for across the grain.
Thanks for everything again.

---

Welcome to the forum!
I don't have a certain rotation because I have too many shave ready razors & I love every one of them but it is hard for me to get under my chin at times because I have a goatee so I have to use whichever angle I can that best suits the occasion. I have some razors that give me very close shaves & I prefer those the most but I still try to hone all my razors the best I can. Each one is different & so is each shave but I love using a straight razor. They have made a very large come back I think because of these new razors that have 4 & 5 blades & the refills aren't cheap. Who knows, they might make a 6 blade now. When you're set up with hones & strops, it is cheaper in the long run to use a straight razor plus I enjoy it! I love my different straights, I have one that is shave ready from the late 1700's. If only it could talk!!!! My next shave will be with a Boker I just finished changing the scales on because one was broken. I also polished the blade with my Dremel & some Maas polish & it shines really pretty now. It is in Show N Tell right here, http://straightrazorpalace.com/show-...r-morning.html
I then honed it & stropped it so it is ready for a test drive. I hope you love the forum, there's plenty of great information on here.
Steve

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Originally Posted by Barry2

- - - I don't know whether it was shave ready when I bought it, I just assummed that it was not and went ahead with the 4000 and the 8000. The stones are brand new and flat and the only test for me is whether I can use it to shave.

- - - Another question/observation in addition to the ones in my previous post is that the so-called "heel" or horizontal stabilizer will not allow the blade to sit flat on the stone at that end of the blade ie. the end closest to the handle. It is therefore a flat-out impossibility for the blade to sit flat on the stone, unless one grinds it off. And I hasten to add that I also have stropped it up to 100 strokes on each side.

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New hones should be lapped to ensure they are flat before using them Hone Lapping 101 - Straight Razor Place Library .

Here is a guide to honing a razor Beginner's Guide to Honing - Straight Razor Place Library . The spine and edge of the razor should both rest on the hone, this gives you the proper angle for honing. Straights are designed that way. There is no reason for the stabilizer to be resting on the hone as that is not necessary nor desirable while honing.

Bob

Agree with Carl streaching the skin properly solves alot of problems.

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Originally Posted by BobH

New hones should be lapped to ensure they are flat before using them Hone Lapping 101 - Straight Razor Place Library .

Here is a guide to honing a razor Beginner's Guide to Honing - Straight Razor Place Library . The spine and edge of the razor should both rest on the hone, this gives you the proper angle for honing. Straights are designed that way. There is no reason for the stabilizer to be resting on the hone as that is not necessary nor desirable while honing.

Bob

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Very true!!!
I bought a DMT 95 lapping plate when I first bought my hones & lapped them all in before using them. After that I used a 325 grit plate. Anyone out there that thinks you can just buy new hones & get after it, please lap your hones first like Bob says. They don't tell you that on the box or possibly in the instructions when you buy a new hone but it must be done. There is no way around it. Thank you Bob for putting that piece of info in there!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chinaski

I need to pick one of my razors and go on with it for a while.

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What ever feels right to you is the correct approach. Personally, I have always rotated razors and I felt that each one taught me different things about my technique. It also helped me feel when a razor was not up to par in sharpness with the rest of them when I was starting.

Hi : Glad to see that you agree there is no reason for the horizontal stabilizer to rest on the stone. Not a single person on the web has stated this.

- - - As for the angle, seems to me that it would a case of the sharper the angle the better as in safety razors, but that contradicts the reality that straight razors are made with a spine Again, nobody is willing to come out and state categorically that maximum sharpness requires a certain angle. . . . . Why ? . . . Probably because even the experts don't know.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Barry2

Hi : Glad to see that you agree there is no reason for the horizontal stabilizer to rest on the stone. Not a single person on the web has stated this.

- - - As for the angle, seems to me that it would a case of the sharper the angle the better as in safety razors, but that contradicts the reality that straight razors are made with a spine Again, nobody is willing to come out and state categorically that maximum sharpness requires a certain angle. . . . . Why ? . . . Probably because even the experts don't know.

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If you dig around a bit I think you will find that a 17 or 18 degree bevel angle is what is aimed for with a couple of degrees latitude/tolerance on either side to be in spec. There are formulas for figuring that out too.

Bob

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Originally Posted by Barry2

.

- - - .
- - - It should be noted that purchased blades for straight razors are extremely thin . . . . so again, why is this ? I have tried everything I can think of on my 4000/8000 stone and am unable to shave with it.

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Excuse me Barry if I am misunderstanding you but what do you mean by "purchased blades for straight razors" ? are you talking about blades for Shavettes?

Oops, 'scuse me. I meant to say that the angle of the leading edge on safety razors is extremely narrow. Why should it be any different for straight razors ? . . . . yet it seems that because the manufacturers put a spine on the straight razors, they are telling us that this is the correct angle. I don't get it. I am tempted to grind the spine down to a small thickness.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Barry2

Oops, 'scuse me. I meant to say that the angle of the leading edge on safety razors is extremely narrow. Why should it be any different for straight razors ? . . . . yet it seems that because the manufacturers put a spine on the straight razors, they are telling us that this is the correct angle. I don't get it. I am tempted to grind the spine down to a small thickness.

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My guess is that if you narrowed the spine down the bevel would become very frail and fail easily. You would have a wider bevel with little support for the edge. Take a blade with a 5.5mm spine and 18mm width from the spine wear to edge = 17.6 degree bevel angle and thin the spine only by 2mm you wind up with a bevel angle of 11.2 degrees.

Bob

I should have also added that while DE blades are extremely thin they get lots of support and stiffening from being clamped in the DE razor head.

Bob

- - - Thanks Bob, I have approximately the same by my calculations. So then, it seems that approx. 11 degrees is what we should have when finished.

- - - To change course a bit, I have a stainless steel blade that I have been struggling with, trying to get an edge that is fit to shave with. Most of the folks on the web decry stainless and say that Sheffield steel or other high carbon blades are far easier to sharpen. Would you agree with that ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Barry2

- - - Thanks Bob, I have approximately the same by my calculations. So then, it seems that approx. 11 degrees is what we should have when finished.

- - - To change course a bit, I have a stainless steel blade that I have been struggling with, trying to get an edge that is fit to shave with. Most of the folks on the web decry stainless and say that Sheffield steel or other high carbon blades are far easier to sharpen. Would you agree with that ?

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No, I would not agree that stainless blades are far harder to sharpen. I have several stainless razors in rotation and none were far harder to hone than carbon, possibly a bit but not by much. All took a nice edge and shave as well as my carbon blades.

We are getting off topic here and maybe you could start another thread on the subject so we don't hi jack the OP's thread.

Bob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BobH

No, I would not agree that stainless blades are far harder to sharpen. I have several stainless razors in rotation and none were far harder to hone than carbon, possibly a bit but not by much. All took a nice edge and shave as well as my carbon blades.

We are getting off topic here and maybe you could start another thread on the subject so we don't hi jack the OP's thread.

Bob

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- - - I haven't yet figured out how to do that.

Click "Forum" at the top left of the screen (under the SRP logo)
Then decide which section you would like your thread to be in and open it
Then click on "Post New Thread" Top left (Under the "Forum" tab)
Choose a title for your thread and bang away

Hello everyone, tonight shaving was almost excellant(it's night in here). I focused on stroping first more then before and felt the difference(closest first pass ever). Then I tried different stretching/flattening methods on my cheeks and pay extra attention on hair grow directions also try not to apply much pressure when I go across the grain I also found a grip that suits most for XTG on right side of my face(for now).
My neck is tricky because of hair grow directions but I've solved that long ago. My only problem is mustache area left, WTG is not enough somehow and XTG seems imposible. I don't want to lose my vital body parts of course:)
Thanks everyone for the support.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chinaski

Mine is not but the name of the character I was inspired long ago is Henry. You got the novel, didn't you?

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Which one? He used that name in damn near all of them.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chinaski

Hello everyone,
I am a newbie in here and I have some questions to ask. I bought a SR couple months ago and tried it, went okey. I hadn't used straight in a row until last weekend(I do now), I had been using straight once a week instead(I've been a DE shaver for nearly one year). Up to now I have approx. 10 shaves under my belt. I can shave without much problem so far, but I decided to use only straight from now on(not even touch up with my DE).
My technique has improving and I can get DFS everytime, one WTG+2XTGs are enough most of the time.
My first problem is when I go XTG(ear to chin) I always get small nicks and sometimes get small cuts because of wrong grip/pressure combo(I think). I watched so many videos and read dozens of journals but still have not found the right grip for XTG especially in jawline. Can anyone advise me on that?
Second question is I have three straight razors from different sources(all came shave ready) I like using all of them in rotation but all of them has different characteristics, one of them is quarter hollow/near wedge and the others are hollow and the edges are different. Shall I shave with one only until I get used to it and then switch to others? or It does not make a huge different to getting used to straight shaving you may say? Because I want to use all of them in rotation to maintain their edges for a relatively long time an I love all my razors.

Thanks in advance.

---

Hi everyone:
- - - Heres a question about honing technique as displayed in the library. It says that the heel should lead on the stone. The question then is what is the "heel" ? Are we talking here about the cutting edge or the spine. I ask this because I have been trying to hone with the spine as leading edge and my blade will not sharpen.

The heel is on the cutting edge. You were doing it backwards! Find a diagram of a straight razor & you will understand it much better. Go here:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/srpwi...uide_to_Honing
Also go here:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cTZvC-GU8r...ight+Razor.png

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Barry2

Hi everyone:
- - - Heres a question about honing technique as displayed in the library. It says that the heel should lead on the stone. The question then is what is the "heel" ? Are we talking here about the cutting edge or the spine. I ask this because I have been trying to hone with the spine as leading edge and my blade will not sharpen.

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Honing is done with the cutting edge/bevel forward, not the spine. The heel is where the cutting edge/bevel starts and the toe is where the cutting edge stops at the end of the blade. If you hone with the "heel" slightly ahead, think blade slightly angled across the hone, you will not hone into the stabilizer.

Bob

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Originally Posted by OCDshaver

Which one? He used that name in damn near all of them.

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Answer is "Women".