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I've now crossed over the dozen shaves mark. I can't seem to get a close shave at all. I know it has to be the angle and I have experimented quite a bit with angles. I can't help but getting frustrated a little especially when it comes to my upper lip and chin. I know I'll get it and it will take time and practice just like my DE did, but does anyone have a bit of advice or a trick I can try to help out?
Sure, as someone also new to this, I have found a few factors quite different between using a straight and a DE. You have already mentioned the angle of the blade which makes a huge difference and will vary depending on the stroke. Another is skin stretching. The bar on a DE does a pretty good job without you having to stretch the skin much. I have found that you do really need to stretch to get a good, comfortable shave with a straight. Where and how you stretch will depend on your face so try and focus on solving one area at a time and then build on that.
I have also found the sharpness of the blade and the stropping to add a whole new level. With DEs, I rarely shave more than 3 times on a single blade before discarding it and I don't have stiff, heavy growth. Getting the hang of stropping so you maintain/improve the edge versus making it worse has been a bit of a journey.
I guess that is where the satisfaction and enjoyment reside - in the new skills learned and improved.
I feel as though I have the stropping down. But I don't know for sure. I feel like this is where havIng a father or grandfather that shaved his way would come in handy but oh well I'm gonna keep plugging away.
There are no shortcuts, and a dozen shaves is nothing, especially when it comes to chin and upper lip. I'm not sure how long it took me, but it was at least 6 months to get a semi-close shave in those areas. Part is technique, some is confidence, and some is edge. Technique includes face prep and lather and stopping, which you say you have down.
My advice is take your time, experiment with approach angles and grips, and finish up with your DE.
Keep at it for sure! It *will* get better.
My fellow Ontarian beat me to what would have been my first suggestion: stretching your skin. It makes a heck of a difference and even now, several years into the straight shaving thing, I have to occasionally make a conscious effort and remind myself to stretch properly. Bad habits have a way of creeping back in for me...
As for angle: what angle are you aiming for? The ideal is often expressed in degrees (about 30 degrees is a good starting point in most situations) but it can often be easier to visualize that as elevating the spine of the razor by about the width of the spine. So if your razor's spine is 1/4" wide, aim for a space of about 1/4" between spine and skin. That should be in the right ballpark. Note that a shallower angle can sometimes be called for (for example when going across - and especially against - the grain)
Also, upper lip and chin are two of the toughest areas to shave well. Upper lip because there's that nose thing in the way, and chin because it is so rounded and for some guys their hairs grow in weird patterns there. On the upper lip I usually do one with the grain pass vertically (i.e. from the nose down) and then a second across the grain. If you do the XTG pass, do pay attention to the toe of your razor. Cuts on the nose can bleed like crazy. :) On my chin I again start with a WTG pass starting from my lower lip and proceeding in a southerly direction, followed by n ATG pass starting on my neck and proceeding up, and often a couple of angled passes if I'm not happy with how things worked out.
To be honest I'm a fan of advising guys to take things slowly. Start with the easy bits until you're really comfortable handling the razor, and until you have figured out the angles, stretching (and don't forget beard prep!) on those parts of your beard that are more straightforward. Focusing on nailing the basics on those areas and finishing up with your DE *might* be a less frustrating way to go. But if you're a jump in with both feet kind of guy, then keep on doing what you're doing! Make sure your prep is good, watch the angles, stretch your skin, don't cut your nose off, and enjoy. :)
Twelve shaves in and you're worried about your lip and chin??? I think I was still learning how to strop correctly at that point. :)
For the chin, all I can say is experiment with angles, stretching, and go slow. Everyone's chin seems to be different and everyone seems to have developed their own way.
For the upper lip, I do a vertical from nose to lip. Then I go across my lip from center to right and from center to left. Finally, I grasp the blade with both hands, lay it almost flat on my lip and go vertically mainly using the toe on my left side and heel on the right side.
If I'm going for a BBS upper lip, I use a 3/8.
And watch the nose, it hurts when you nick it and bleeds profusely.
Haha I have cut the hell out of my nose with every razor I have ever shaved with. Bleeds like a stuck pig. In a pinch salt will stop that bleeding but beware it stings and leaves white residue on your nose making you appear to be a cocaine user. [emoji16] I got some funny looks at work that morning lol.