Sensitivity issues

Hello Gents,
I am having a problem with skin irritation the day after shaving. It might be my blade (I unfortunately purchased a poor quality brand), but I am suspicious of my technique as well. I can do a WTG pass with minimal problems. When I move on to XTG, I start to get resistance and some small weepers. ATG is very uncomfortable. I know that it is recommended for beginners to not do ATG for a while, but if I don't get BBS, the rough areas are very sensitive for a day or two after (so much that it makes anything clothing or a coat with a collar very difficult to wear). I am currently using Anthony preshave oil, Van Der Hagen soap with a snurdle of AOS Lemon cream, and Jack Black aftershave balm over top of Shaveworks Cool Fix. The blade is a Gold Dollar, with lots of stropping applied before and inbetween. Any advice would be appreciated. I do have a Carbo Magnetic approved by another member on it's way.

You need even a lower angle for anything other than WTG so be sure to keep the spine closer to your skin. If this remains a problem, just repeat the WTG until your technique improves and/or you get a better razor.

Try Nivea AS Balm for Sensitive Skin, really helps soothe the irritation. You will certainly get better results with a different razor. Gold Dollars are notorious for problems. Utopian is correct about blade angle. What helped me in the beginning was a statement by a member who's name I forgot (and want to thank him for the tip) to shave the lather, not the beard. That means as light a pressure as you can get on the razor and still be mowing the stubble.

One other thing to consider is a possible reaction to some ingredients in the soaps/creams you are using. While ingredients like menthol, eucalyptus and Shea butter are popular they are the cause for irritation for many shavers.

Another area to consider is water temp for your shaves. I had bad luck with hot/warm lather and prep. Switched to cold water shaving and 90% of my irritations disappeared. Now, any temp from tepid, skin temp or cooler has kept the irritation level almost nil. Don't know your age, but one other thing to consider if it keeps up is to see a dermatologist and see if you are developing Rosacea (it is not adult acne as folklore would have it. And it wasn't alcoholism that gave WC Fields his puffy red nose as most people thought - it was an advanced case of Rosacea. I have a mild case well under control. Should it come to that PM me and I'll give you hints on folk medicine control to go with what the dermatologist prescribes).

I would suggest not using the Gold Dollar razor if you are using the factory edge as supplied. I do not believe any amount of stropping could put it right. It likely needs to honed to be sure it has a good edge. That and your technique combined could be the problem. Once you eliminate the blade as a source by having it honed to shave ready then you know it is your shaving technique if you still have the same issues. The razor you are waiting on might go a long way to improve things too as it should have a better edge than a Gold Dollar factory edge.

In the meantime do as Utopian suggests and go slow, watch your pressure on the blade, blade angle and do WTG passes. If it goes better WTG with your new razor then try XTG. If the XTG is comfortable then maybe try the ATG pass.

Bob

Wow, those are some really good suggestions! I did have the razor honed at a local shop that specializes in barber clippers for haircuts and agriculture use. It cost less than five bucks, so I wasn't too concerned with the quality of the honing, just that it would be better than what it came with. I have been able to see a noticeable visual change to the cutting edge as it degrades. I have started using a pair of heavy canvas pants with my leather strop (kinda difficult since the 1X4 I have is about 3.5 feet long). Also, I think I may have gotten some acronyms mixed up. I used ATG for Across the Grain, and XTG for Against the Grain. The Against the Grain is the most painful (as is to be expected with a bad edge).:banghead:
This is some really great stuff to try out. I never even considered a cold water shave. Does it matter if you do it after a shower?

If a shop does not specialize in straight razor honing chances are they could even make an edge worse than before. There have been more than a few cases of people taking razors to shops that do knives etc sort of thing and had the edge buggered up. For sure don't use the Gold Dollar and give your face a break.

Bob

I usually do a cold water facial rinse just before I get out of the shower.My preference. You can just as easily do a cold water face wash just before you lather. Two things I do to ease my shave is after the shower cold water rinse I run a small drop of hair conditioner over my beard and leave my face wet after the shower. Just before lathering I re wet my face and rub a little Cremo, Kiss My Face or a dollop of Aveno in a can for sensitive skin as a pre shave. For me, I feel it gives me smoother glide for the razor.

Welcome to SRP tseppish:: these two YouTube videos really helped my S.R. Shaving technique. Search for the Lynn Abrams introduction to S.R. Shaving video. Also search for the three pass shave. It's the video by DRMATT357

The first step is to acquire a S.R. With a real shave ready edge. I would recommend looking for used razors on the SRP members sale link or new razors from Straight Razor Design. This will assure your next razor will arrive with a real edge for shaving.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Razorfeld

Another area to consider is water temp for your shaves. I had bad luck with hot/warm lather and prep. Switched to cold water shaving and 90% of my irritations disappeared. Now, any temp from tepid, skin temp or cooler has kept the irritation level almost nil.

---

I am going to give cold water a try. Do you prep with cold water as well?
The only area I get irritation is on my neck, but a big part of that is my technique.

I actually got a Gold Dollar off eBay, from a gentleman who hones them, and resells them (pretty cheap). He promised me that he would rehone it if I was unhappy with it. It is one of the sharpest razors I have (although it is not the starter gold dollar).

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Brandonii54

I am going to give cold water a try. Do you prep with cold water as well?
The only area I get irritation is on my neck, but a big part of that is my technique.

I actually got a Gold Dollar off eBay, from a gentleman who hones them, and resells them (pretty cheap). He promised me that he would rehone it if I was unhappy with it. It is one of the sharpest razors I have (although it is not the starter gold dollar).

---

Last thing in the shower is a cool face rinse. Had brush soaking in cold tap water during shower. After shave as cold water as I can stand face rinse. Closes the pores and cuts off any little weepers.

I'm always somewhat unhappy when I see Gold Dollars being used. From what I can tell by all that I've read about them, yes, a decent edge can be had but they degrade quickly. A time tested vintage, once re-honed from bevel up and properly stropped before each shave can go up to a year or two only needing occasional re freshening on an 8k or a 12k.

Welcome!

I'd like to add that the stickies are an inescapable must-read for any newbie. Many of us have been over them multiple times and picked up something new each time.

Enjoy!

Beginners

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Siguy

Welcome!

I'd like to add that the stickies are an inescapable must-read for any newbie. Many of us have been over them multiple times and picked up something new each time.

Enjoy!

Beginners

---

I heartily second that. I am always finding new things in many of the tutorials and library forums.:beer1:
I will have to try the cold washes too. I have also been working on my lather techniques, and finding I have a lot to work on. Luckily, I also have some Sterling soap coming that I am very excited about!

Will add a second for blade and technique probably being the main causes. Just because a razor can shave does not make it truly shave ready. Atg passes are something that many cant do without irritation. As said try multiple wtg passes or a wtg and 2 xtg. Good luck

If at all possible, you should try to come to THIS meet-up on the 24th.

You can look at your edges under a microscope and we can hone them for you. It should be worth the drive!

Holy crap! Thanks for being proactive on making a meet up happen. I would really like to do something like this!:gl:

I don't know if you face lather and what brush you use, but you could also check your lathering technique. At one point, I blamed a cream for the irritation I was suffering. Turned out I was being too aggressive with a brush that my skin couldn't take much of. You could try painting strokes or a brush with softer tips.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by KarloT

I don't know if you face lather and what brush you use, but you could also check your lathering technique. At one point, I blamed a cream for the irritation I was suffering. Turned out I was being too aggressive with a brush that my skin couldn't take much of. You could try painting strokes or a brush with softer tips.

---

Yes, for sure you can redden your face that way like razor burn. Did that face lathering.

Bob

I know I am not on par yet with my lathering, but I have been adding a snurdle of cream to my soap to alleviate any lack of lubrication. I am currently using the badger brush that comes in the Van Der Hagen kit. It is a little coarse, but once the nurn starts, it is hard to tell if the brush makes it worse or not! :shrug:

If the seller offered to re hone your Gold Dollar, send it back.

Some guys do actually know how to make them shave and it is pretty common for new guys to ruin an edge, by stropping with too much pressure or a contaminated strop.

You should buy a decent strop, there are several in the 50 dollar range, I would recommend a paddle strop to learn on using very lite pressure.

If you use heavy pressure or lift the spine, just 1 stroke, you can roll or break off the edge. This will irritate your skin.
Start with a known sharp razor.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BobH

If a shop does not specialize in straight razor honing chances are they could even make an edge worse than before.

Bob

---

In the case of "stock" Gold Dollars, this is unlikely. rubbing it on the sidewalk wouldn't either. :gth A properly configured and honed Gold Dollar can deliver a good shave though.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Splashone

In the case of "stock" Gold Dollars, this is unlikely. rubbing it on the sidewalk wouldn't either. :gth A properly configured and honed Gold Dollar can deliver a good shave though.

---

Yup, my assumption was that the OP's Gold Dollar was a "stock" Gold Dollar as there was no mention made of it being purchased shave ready. I did indicate that if it had a "factory edge" it might not be the greatest.

Bob

Euclid:
I bought it through Vintage Straight Razor, part of what they call "The Shaving Network", and it does come with a free honing. I will probably send it to them once I have a magnifier to check with. After I got it honed at a shop locally, it did shave better, but not great. The edge degraded swiftly after that, and I don't have the skills to keep it keen yet.

Splashone:
The local shop did make it better than it was before; they specialize in clippers and barber scissors, and will sharpen about anything else. For five bucks, I figured it was worth it to see if it would be any better.

BobH:
The seller did say it was "shave ready", but they sell mostly Gold Dollar and a few other low cost brands. One of the retailers in the "Network" is The Blades Grimm, who I understand doesn't have the best reputation. However, I understand that Tim Zowada is doing some consulting with them or Gold Dollar to improve things, so maybe it will get better?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Euclid440

If the seller offered to re hone your Gold Dollar, send it back.

Some guys do actually know how to make them shave and it is pretty common for new guys to ruin an edge, by stropping with too much pressure or a contaminated strop.

You should buy a decent strop, there are several in the 50 dollar range, I would recommend a paddle strop to learn on using very lite pressure.

If you use heavy pressure or lift the spine, just 1 stroke, you can roll or break off the edge. This will irritate your skin.
Start with a known sharp razor.

---

I will be able to finally compare the edge once my new razor from Magpie comes in. It is certainly possible that I damaged the edge from improper stropping. I have started gathering materials to make my own paddle strop. Does anyone have experience using a hanging strop from a higher tie-off point? The only anchor point I have currently is at about shoulder height (call it 5 and a half feet), and it does feel awkward stropping at that angle.

Misread someone else’s post.

There are guys that specialize in honing Gold Dollars you can send it to them or learn to hone it yourself.

Some Gold Dollars will hone easily, some need repair, some will not hone at all, not many, which is why they are not recommended. Some that sell them honed, have already made the repairs for you.

The easier solution is to buy a quality razor as you have done and learn to maintain it.

Put a loop of Para Cord on your strop and loop it to your bathroom doorknob.

Part of your problem is probably stropping, most new stroppers use way too much pressure and roll the edge. Buy or make a paddle strop and use lite pressure to learn to strop and keep you shaving, or lay your strop flat on a counter.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tseppish

I will be able to finally compare the edge once my new razor from Magpie comes in. It is certainly possible that I damaged the edge from improper stropping. I have started gathering materials to make my own paddle strop. Does anyone have experience using a hanging strop from a higher tie-off point? The only anchor point I have currently is at about shoulder height (call it 5 and a half feet), and it does feel awkward stropping at that angle.

---

I used to strop at this height, because that's what I had, it is certainly easier with a lower anchor point but once I was used to it it was much like anything else. However why put yourself in an awkward position for the sake of a cable tie or piece of string.
I would try a few different heights (using what is available) and try to find a good height, go round the house looking for tie off points, you will be surprised what you can come up with, then sort out a more permenant solution from there.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tseppish

Euclid:
I bought it through Vintage Straight Razor, part of what they call "The Shaving Network", and it does come with a free honing. I will probably send it to them once I have a magnifier to check with. After I got it honed at a shop locally, it did shave better, but not great. The edge degraded swiftly after that, and I don't have the skills to keep it keen yet.

Splashone:
The local shop did make it better than it was before; they specialize in clippers and barber scissors, and will sharpen about anything else. For five bucks, I figured it was worth it to see if it would be any better.

BobH:
The seller did say it was "shave ready", but they sell mostly Gold Dollar and a few other low cost brands. One of the retailers in the "Network" is The Blades Grimm, who I understand doesn't have the best reputation. However, I understand that Tim Zowada is doing some consulting with them or Gold Dollar to improve things, so maybe it will get better?

---

OK, I was under the wrong assumption and you know what they say about making assumptions. So, if it was sold as "shave ready" either it wasn't or as a beginner you damaged the edge with poor stropping or shaving technique. The later is not unusual at all, did that quite a bit in the beginning also. If the seller will re-hone it for you I would get that done. When you get it back "shave ready" don't strop it, just use it to see what the edge feels like. That would eliminate bad stropping as a cause of edge damage.

I would still say not to use a shop that will sharpen anything. Honing a straight razor is a pretty specialized skill.

Bob

They were recommended by the local AOS store; not sure how much weight that carries since this particular store does not sell straights.
Your assumptions may be different from mine; my wife says I only make an ass out of U and Umption. Still not sure who Umption is, or how much I need to apologize to him! :chapeau
I am planning on installing a simple ring onto the side of my counter to help get a proper angle while I work on stropping correctly. At least now I have a cheap practice razor that should be good for testing in between sessions. What would be a good test of the quality of a proper strop or hone, without risking my rakish good looks?

Just smooth leather or fine weave nylon.

Yea, their site says it was honed “Professionally” so it probably was.

I’m not familiar with them so cannot comment on their quality, but it is not uncommon for a novice to use too much pressure and roll or break the edge.

Use lite pressure when stropping, the goal is to polish the bevel and edge.

In general, you cannot trust the knowledge of someone at AOS and the ONLY way you can trust a sharpening shop to hone a straight razor is to ask them two questions:

1. Does the sharpener use a straight razor?
2. Will the sharpener be using any motorized device to sharpen the razor?

Unless the answer is yes to the first and no to the second, you need to leave immediately. Optionally, you can slap them and tell them to never, ever touch another straight razor.

I will remember that. I learned a similar rule for good coffee.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Yea, their site says it was honed “Professionally” so it probably was.

I’m not familiar with them so cannot comment on their quality, but it is not uncommon for a novice to use too much pressure and roll or break the edge.

Use lite pressure when stropping, the goal is to polish the bevel and edge.

---

Well, I can offer "professional" brain surgery but it doesn't mean I'm qualified. I'm not commenting on the vendor, just the term. It is popping up more and more and becoming as meaningless as shave ready when used by pretenders. This is what happens when beginners join here, ask questions, spew back plagiarized answers to seem competent, and within 3-6 months claim years and thousands of razors' worth of experience.

Utopian's suggestion of going to a shave meetup is an excellent one. We have them on occaison with a few members here in Vancouver BC, Canada and I can honestly tell you that that is where I learned the most about honing.

If I remember correctly, Utopian was up in our part of the province last year and one of our local guys here, Carlos (Cobre on the forum) met him downtown Vancouver at the hotel he was staying at and got some nice insight into honing techniques. If I am thinking of the right gentleman, apparently this Utopian fellow really knows how to hone! I wish I would have been able to make it downtown that day myself.

Gold Dollars can shave as well as any razor if honed and prepared properly by someone that knows what they are doing. I purchased mine off someone that specializes on selling them over at the Badger and Blade forum, Bill (known as Buca3152.) Based on my own first hand experience, I can tell you Bill knows what he is doing with those razors and fixes them up properly before he sells them. The edge as I got it from him was peerless.

I'm not convinced that the Gold Dollars do in fact hold an edge as long as some the vintage makes but there are some very experienced members on B&B who I know and trust that have used their Gold Dollars for quite a few months and they swear that the edge is still holding up just fine. I got mine when I was fairly new to the straight game so I suspect it was my own maintenance of the blade that ruined the original edge. I have since rehoned it and shaved with it a few times in my rotation and the edge is holding up quite nicely for now.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Attila

Utopian's suggestion of going to a shave meetup is an excellent one. We have them on occaison with a few members here in Vancouver BC, Canada and I can honestly tell you that that is where I learned the most about honing.

If I remember correctly, Utopian was up in our part of the province last year and one of our local guys here, Carlos (Cobre on the forum) met him downtown Vancouver at the hotel he was staying at and got some nice insight into honing techniques. If I am thinking of the right gentleman, apparently this Utopian fellow really knows how to hone! I wish I would have been able to make it downtown that day myself.

Gold Dollars can shave as well as any razor if honed and prepared properly by someone that knows what they are doing. I purchased mine off someone that specializes on selling them over at the Badger and Blade forum, Bill (known as Buca3152.) Based on my own first hand experience, I can tell you Bill knows what he is doing with those razors and fixes them up properly before he sells them. The edge as I got it from him was peerless.

I'm not convinced that the Gold Dollars do in fact hold an edge as long as some the vintage makes but there are some very experienced members on B&B who I know and trust that have used their Gold Dollars for quite a few months and they swear that the edge is still holding up just fine. I got mine when I was fairly new to the straight game so I suspect it was my own maintenance of the blade that ruined the original edge. I have since rehoned it and shaved with it a few times in my rotation and the edge is holding up quite nicely for now.

---

That is really great to hear! I have hope that I will be able to put a good edge on it someday. thanks to the generous gift of a member, I may just have the tools to make that happen!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tseppish

That is really great to hear! I have hope that I will be able to put a good edge on it someday. thanks to the generous gift of a member, I may just have the tools to make that happen!

---

But keep in mind, if your Gold Dollar was not modified at all from the factory (ie. one of the possible requirements is that the stabilizer needs to be ground down so that the razor sits on sharpening stones properly) you may need to get a pro to do that for you first.

Honing is a whole new rabbit hole with a very steep learning curve. I don't recommend that you attempt to fix up the edge of that Gold Dollar by yourself, especially if you are just starting out honing. Although you will not lose much financially by trying, it can turn out to be a very frustrating experience and might turn you off of honing completely. Which would be a shame.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Attila

But keep in mind, if your Gold Dollar was not modified at all from the factory (ie. one of the possible requirements is that the stabilizer needs to be ground down so that the razor sits on sharpening stones properly) you may need to get a pro to do that for you first.

Honing is a whole new rabbit hole with a very steep learning curve. I don't recommend that you attempt to fix up the edge of that Gold Dollar by yourself, especially if you are just starting out honing. Although you will not lose much financially by trying, it can turn out to be a very frustrating experience and might turn you off of honing completely. Which would be a shame.

---

Agreed. I am going to start with a pasted felt strop board, and see how the edge looks after that (I can see the edge going awry without any aid, and how it realigns some after stropping). I don't want to rush into it until I have a good magnifier at the very least.

A pasted felt strop board can work (for a while) for maintenance of an already shave ready edge that is just starting to dull. But will not do for actual honing work. Some find the edges off of pasted media to be harsh, myself included. Don't do too many laps if you do try it. Generally 10-20 should be sufficient.

Aha! This is exactly the kind of wisdom I look for! I will definitely not try it on my new Griffon. I was also wondering if there is a need to protect the spine when using a pasted strop? I am hoping the edge won't start to dull for some time.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tseppish

Aha! This is exactly the kind of wisdom I look for! I will definitely not try it on my new Griffon. I was also wondering if there is a need to protect the spine when using a pasted strop? I am hoping the edge won't start to dull for some time.

---

No need to tape the spine if using a pasted strop. You won't put any wear on the spine.

Taping is a very contentious issue. There are many for and against it with just as many reasons to justify their position. I prefer not to use tape at all but will do so for spines that have gold or elaborate decorations on them. Also, for wedge or near wedge razors, tape can greatly cut down on the honing time required.

When you are new to straight shaving, it is very easy to dull a freshly ready edge via poor technique or improper stroping. Make sure to keep the spine of the razor while shaving no more than one (max two) spine widths away from your face. When stropping go very slowly and focus on finishing your stroke in one direction before flipping the razor over and ALWAYS keep the spine in contact with the strop. These two areas are where most beginners will prematurely dull their edges.