how much chromium oxide on balsa wood

Hello Every body;

I just applied Puma chromium oxide to balsa wood and I am not sure of the amount. I basically painted the wood and spread it so it looks like a green piece of wood. I can barely see the grain of the wood now.

How much chromium oxide (puma brand) should I apply on balsa wood.

Thanks

Rub it with a piece of clean cloth until no cro ox is on the cloth.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Icarusflies

Hello Every body;

I just applied Puma chromium oxide to balsa wood and I am not sure of the amount. I basically painted the wood and spread it so it looks like a green piece of wood. I can barely see the grain of the wood now.

How much chromium oxide (puma brand) should I apply on balsa wood.

Thanks

---

This seems like too much. I put on a very very thin layer and then wipe it down until it doesn't come off much anymore.

Thanks;

Do I have the risk to damage the blade if I apply too much CO on the wood?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Icarusflies

Thanks;

Do I have the risk to damage the blade if I apply too much CO on the wood?

---

I wouldn't have thought so but you run the risk of contaminating your strop.
With cro ox less is more. You dont need a huge amount to be effective.

All I have noticed is that it isn't effective when I have too much on.

You have definitely used too much. A couple of x's down the balsa and a rub down with paper towels is plenty. Rub it back really well until it stops coming off.

When it stops coming off with a towel it is the correct amount.

Too much of it won't hurt the razor, but it will make a green mess on everything nearby until the excess is stropped off.

There's a sticky on this somewhere... http://straightrazorpalace.com/strop...-tutorial.html

I'm not sure if it deals directly with balsa, but the concept is the same.

James.

This may seem obvious, but don't forget to wipe your blade after using the balsa before using your linen and leather. Avoid CrOx contamination.

I have used Chrox & Ferox on 2 Balsa paddles 3"x8" about
I fully painted solid cover of each powder mixed with fine mineral oil
it doesn't take much only a few drops & it will cover the area quick
let it dry for 2 days then rubbed off all the excess, it was surprising how much actually came off
I use them as a post hone finisher about 10 laps on each .3 Chrox then .1 Ferox

this is my method used

http://straightrazorpalace.com/strop...addles-oz.html

I just made something very similar and think i put too much dressing (chrox and mineral oil) onto the balsa. after 3 days now it's still shiny wet and rubs off. should i just rub off whats on the surface and leave it to dry longer or rub off and try my blade on it? BTW Thanks for your DIY instructions. i followed them with a few other peoples methods too. some do mention not to use too much chrox but yours looks like a billiard baize. i'm hoping mine is salvageable.

Also BTW what is ferrox exactly? i can't seem to find it….and did you make any crayons? and if so, where's the photo tutorial??:tu

Ferrox is iron oxide. Substance did make crayons and did a photo tutorial.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...x-crayons.html

yeh mate rub off any excess paste with a clean cloth then let it dry some more
it is surprising how much a small amount will spread

now I currently have an experiment with some polyester felt boards with the powders in mineral oil on them, been 2 weeks & still not completely dry
did the same started with a small amount then tried rubbing it off & still wet to touch

but the Balsa did dry & lot quicker as it it absorbs the oil better

I have found the crayons are a lot easier to apply and they don't seem to stick to the blade as much either

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jonjo

Also BTW what is ferrox exactly? i can't seem to find it….and did you make any crayons? and if so, where's the photo tutorial??:tu

---

Ferrox is Ferris Oxide / Iron Oxide (pure powdered rust)
usually a lot finer & softer than Chromium Oxide (Chrox)