ATG or XTG - Some people just can't do it?

Obviously since I'm posting here I'm new to the world of straight shaving. To put my toes in the water I got myself a shavette, and I've been using it consistently for the past three weeks. Overall it's been a good experience, and having read a lot of shavette vs. straight debates I've been sure to be careful and take into account some of the differences.

Shaving for me has always been every 2-3 days at most because it seems like my skin is just so sensitive. My facial hair doesn't grow that fast (nor is it very thick) but what I do have is very coarse. If I shave every 3-4 days I can usually go against the grain and get a super smooth shave, but if I try it any earlier I cut myself to shreds (same prep routine - shower, lather, etc.). With the shavette I've found I can shave every other day (never been possible before), so I know I'm getting a lot of things right. However, going ATG or XTG can result in a good bit of razor burn. It will definitely be smooth, but boy is it painful.

I know my technique has a long way to develop over time, and I've corrected some errors with my lather to make the shavette glide more smoothly. However, it just seems like my skin will not allow multiple passes without a good bit of pain. For the seasoned vets out there with sensitive skin, are there some whose skin just won't tolerate ATG or XTG shaving at all? I'm trying to determine if it's really just a technique issue on my part (which will get better over time) or if there really are people out there whose skin is just that sensitive.

Thanks in advance everyone!

FT

An understandable concern. I think most new and old for that matter straight shavers have to find a balance between how many passes your face can tolerate and chasing the bbs. Fundamentals have to be exercised to get the most out your shaves without tearing your face up. Good prep helps as well as keeping shaving angle low as possible to avoid any scraping of the skin which will pretty much guarantee some degree of irritation or burn. I find that a nice smooth honed straight razor to be less irritating than most manufactured blades made for shavettes. Give a straight a try might be better for you. learn and focus on the basics you shaves will improve over time I guarantee it. Be patient i look back when I started and I had the same issues a red angry face but it doesnt happen anymore just keep at it.

First, Welcome to SRP!
If you haven't done so already, ready the beginner's information in the Library.

Now for your question.
Lower your angle just a bit and see if that helps. And try a different blade manufacturer, it may be that the blade you are using is to harsh for your skin. For instance, I use a feather blade in my DE with no problems, but if I use a feather in a shavette I wind up with razor burn. I found the Gillette 7 O'clock green to work great for me in my shavette though - smooth and no burn.

For me the key to getting a nice smooth and irritation free shave is no pressure, and good skin stretching, and a low blade angle, this of course is in coordination with a good lather and prep. I use noxema as a pre shave as it seems to work well and it is very inexpensive. I do not have a long prep, as if I mess about too much then my skin get irritated from that as well. I also start with my against the grain pass. If because of time constraints I will do a single against the grain pass. It took me a quite a few shaves to find the perfect combination of passes and prep to get to a close comfortable shave.

Hi and welcome. The answer will vary person to person to exactly what they can achieve without irritation. From the reading I have done some don't do all the passes as it will cause irritation. Personally to start with yes I would have irritation and get little pimples on my neck if I did too much on my neck to start with and still do if I chase bbs too hard. I can do more now than when I started as my technique is far better. Try for close comfortable shaves and in time you will find your shaves improve without trying as your technique gets better. At about 100 shaves is where things have really come together so you have a ways to go yet and even then they will continue to get better. As you mentioned burn I would say lighten up on pressure and lower the angle. They are the 2 most common starting out mistakes. Good luck

I've been shaving 50 years or more, have a fairly thick beard and always had a desk job, and almost never went against the grain. Still don't.

Absolutely awesome tips, thanks everyone. I'll really focus on that angle and a good stretch. I know I've caught the angle being too steep in some areas because I'm still learning the angles of my face, and there's still the whole mirror awkwardness at times. Nothing worse than thinking you're making the angle more shallow to realize you're doing the exact opposite.

It also didn't occur to me to check out different blades. I should've realized there would be differences. Are there any places to people recommend to try and get various types? I know Amazon has a bunch of brands, but I'm not sure if those are brands typically recommended by folks on here.

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Originally Posted by forcetrainer

Absolutely awesome tips, thanks everyone. I'll really focus on that angle and a good stretch. I know I've caught the angle being too steep in some areas because I'm still learning the angles of my face, and there's still the whole mirror awkwardness at times. Nothing worse than thinking you're making the angle more shallow to realize you're doing the exact opposite.

It also didn't occur to me to check out different blades. I should've realized there would be differences. Are there any places to people recommend to try and get various types? I know Amazon has a bunch of brands, but I'm not sure if those are brands typically recommended by folks on here.

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Never used them myself...but others have suggested: http://www.tryablade.com
Good luck!!

Close shaves should SOOTHE ya....NOT SCARE ya!!

I got blades when I was using a DE from leesrazors.com. Nice selection.

Maggard Razors has a sample blade selection that you can get. It's something like 8 packs of 5 blades each. And up until two years ago, I did not know that there were any blades other than the one garbage brand the local drugstore sold.

Getting the angle right comes with time and practice. Hang in there.

I haven't used a shavette, but there seems to be plenty of people who like them. I would like to get one eventually and try it out for myself.

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Originally Posted by RezDog

For me the key to getting a nice smooth and irritation free shave is no pressure, and good skin stretching, and a low blade angle, this of course is in coordination with a good lather and prep. I use noxema as a pre shave as it seems to work well and it is very inexpensive. I do not have a long prep, as if I mess about too much then my skin get irritated from that as well. I also start with my against the grain pass. If because of time constraints I will do a single against the grain pass. It took me a quite a few shaves to find the perfect combination of passes and prep to get to a close comfortable shave.

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I can't get a real smooth shave unless I shave ATG. Until recently, I haven't be able to shave ATG with a straight. Even after reducing pressure, there was still too much pull/drag. Yesterday when shaving I tried using even less pressure and working on my angles. I was able to get a much better shave than I usually get with my straight and shave ATG the grain without much discomfort. It was almost as good as the results I can get with my DE razor. I also didn't have as much irritation as I usually do after a straight shave.
So, it does get better over time. You just have keep working on it.

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Originally Posted by JP5

I haven't used a shavette, but there seems to be plenty of people who like them. I would like to get one eventually and try it out for myself.


I can't get a real smooth shave unless I shave ATG. Until recently, I haven't be able to shave ATG with a straight. Even after reducing pressure, there was still too much pull/drag. Yesterday when shaving I tried using even less pressure and working on my angles. I was able to get a much better shave than I usually get with my straight and shave ATG the grain without much discomfort. It was almost as good as the results I can get with my DE razor. I also didn't have as much irritation as I usually do after a straight shave.
So, it does get better over time. You just have keep working on it.

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It did take me a while to learn the how and when. It took some experimenting to get there. Some of my shaves where I tried different techniques left me knowing I was not going to try that again. As I have gotten much better, I have revisited some of those. I cannot go against the grain in my mustache area, but the rest of my face loves it. We each have our unique face and perceptions. It is through trial that we find the perfect shave. I am glad you are finding your way.

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Originally Posted by RezDog

It did take me a while to learn the how and when. It took some experimenting to get there. Some of my shaves where I tried different techniques left me knowing I was not going to try that again.

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That's definitely the stage where I am right now. One or two shaves after posting this message I tried to concentrate on a few of the keys points, especially the blade angle and stretching. My angle was super low, pressure consistent but very light, and a good bit of facial stretching and contorting to figure out how to keep skin in different places taught. Paying attention to all of these variables had the added benefit of slowing me down, and that resulted in probably the smoothest shave I've ever had in most places. Razor burn was almost nil, so I would consider it a success. My chin is still a challenge, but I don't think I'm alone there!

The one variable I'll get some more feedback within the next few shaves will be the number of times I've used my blade. My last shave was #4 on the blade, and I'm thinking the edge mellowed a bit after a few uses. I don't know if shave #5 will be pushing it, but I'll keep going until my face makes it known I need a new blade ;)

Once again, thanks to everyone for all the great feedback. This endeavor has turned shaving into a challenge for me, and it's made it a lot more fun. I now find myself taking a shower at night and shaving right before bed so I can spend as much time as I want experimenting and really going for the super smooth feel!

forcetrainer,

Comfort over silky smooth. I believe in that. I would rather have a comfortable shave rather than frying my skin just to get a silky smooth one. If your face cannot tolerate against the grain or across it, don't do it. I prefer to enjoy my shave every morning rather than suffer post shave skin irritation.

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Originally Posted by Obie

forcetrainer,

Comfort over silky smooth. I believe in that. I would rather have a comfortable shave rather than frying my skin just to get a silky smooth one. If your face cannot tolerate against the grain or across it, don't do it. I prefer to enjoy my shave every morning rather than suffer post shave skin irritation.

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Obie - I wholeheartedly agree. The quest now is trying to figure out 1) what I can tolerate comfortably and 2) how far can I push what is tolerable through better technique. Over the past week I've definitely proved I can tolerate more than I thought when I really focus on my technique, and I expect that to get better. With that being said, I'm sure I'll find that sweet spot of balance between comfort and smoothness as I get more familiar with my face and technique.

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Originally Posted by forcetrainer

Obie - I wholeheartedly agree. The quest now is trying to figure out 1) what I can tolerate comfortably and 2) how far can I push what is tolerable through better technique. Over the past week I've definitely proved I can tolerate more than I thought when I really focus on my technique, and I expect that to get better. With that being said, I'm sure I'll find that sweet spot of balance between comfort and smoothness as I get more familiar with my face and technique.

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Right you are, forcetrainer, better technique will expanded your opportunities. With experience you will find the sweet spot. Still, make sure not to push too far, because the straight razor is sassy and will always remind you of it. In the meantime, the basic rules apply: no pressure, about a 20 degree angle and strategic skin stretching. Of course, proper preparation with a good brush and quality soap or cream are understood.

I'm still a greenhorn when it comes to straight shaving (only about 25 shaves), but I have found that lather and prep make the biggest difference in my shaves from one day to the next. Any time I nail the lather and preshave (which is a handful of times at most), I get smooth shaves with no tugging in any direction. I only go N-S and S-N because of how I can fit the blade on my face and neck. This ends up being WTG-ATG on my cheeks and below my chin, and XTG-XTG on the rest of my neck. I have had a couple of shaves with zero irritation and weepers, but whenever I don't I can always identify something in my prep or lather that was lacking from my best efforts.