To put life back into the blade

Hey all,
Need a little help. Here it goes:
I have an old j.a. Henckles straight razor that is in very good condition except for the steel having minor rust and some tarnish I want to remove (razor is scratch free and I'd like to keep it that way!) so I need some help on both removing the rust/tarnish and to make the blade beautifully shine like new. So here is what I'm thinking-
Begin with calcium lime remover (CLR) for the initial cleaning. Then, use a brass wire hand brush if necessary, to remove whatever is left. And last, use Flitz metal polish to give it a real nice shine. Does this sound like a good way to go?
Oh, and I'm not interested in wheels, machines or anything like that. Just by hand, no power tools.
I included photos. Hope they help.
Thanks!http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...0501583868.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...43d19d8aee.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...58cf60cf55.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...af80a0d2db.jpg

I've never tried the method you've described but I have my doubts about it being sufficient. For hand work, I used progressively finer grits of w/d sandpaper ranging in small increments from 180 to 3000 with 3in1 oil.

I tend to stay away from chemicals. I use sand paper, steel wool, and MAAS ( I know a chemical of sorts).
Never used anything else.

Okay, alright. I'd be open for that. Could you tell me more about it, or tell me where I can learn this method?

Before you try sandpaper, try 0000 steel wool and metal polish (Maas, Blue Magic, Simichrome etc). It might surprise you what that will do

I forgot about the steel wool. That's a better way for a beginning restorer to start.

I agree with Utopian. And it's really not that difficult. I'll put the razor on a leather pad, an polish it with water sand paper grit 180 grid. Remove all the rust and see if there's any deep pitting. Then 400 grid, 800 grid and finally 1200 grid.

It's hard work and takes some hours of labor! Don't proceed ups the grit until the blade is as good it can get.

When you are finished with 1200 grid I'll take it to my cottenwheel buffer and polish it. I know some folks hand polish their blades, but I feel it takes forever.

If you buffer-polish it, cool the blade whenever it starts to feel warm. You don't want to ruin the tempering.

DON'T start at 180 grit, besides some hone wear it doesn't look that bad. robd's suggestion of trying steel wool and metal polish is a sound method for a blade in that condition.

Before steel wool, just try metal polish......please!!
Then if that doesn't work, bring the steel wool into play. Looks like what rust is there will come off with a thumbnail. JMHO

It's like the medical quote "First do no harm". Start with the least invasive method and work back from there.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by outback

Before steel wool, just try metal polish......please!!
Then if that doesn't work, bring the steel wool into play. Looks like what rust is there will come off with a thumbnail. JMHO

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Yes, 000 steel wool and WD40 to clean, then, steel wool and a good metal polish MAAS or Mothers works just fine.

Then if you need more, go to 1000 grit Wet & Dry with a wine cork backer. 1k scratches can easily be removed with steel wool and metal polish. You can go to 2k for a brighter finish or drop down to 600 if you need to remove more.

After steel wool and metal polish, you will have a very good idea which direction you need to go. If you hit it with deep cutting low grit abrasives, you will be doing a lot of needless sanding. And do not use a wire wheel. For active rust, which you don’t have, a single edge razor blade will cut it off quickly and easily, then steel wool and WD40 to clean. And be very careful with chemicals.

That razor should cleanup just fine with steel wool, metal polish and maybe some 1K.

Welcome to the forum, that should be a fine shaver…

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Grazor

DON'T start at 180 grit, besides some hone wear it doesn't look that bad. robd's suggestion of trying steel wool and metal polish is a sound method for a blade in that condition.

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Yeah I did not mean to imply that THAT razor should start at 180--that is just the beginning of the range that I have used. For the OP's razor, I would have started out with around 600 grit, but I still agree that ultra fine steel wool and metal polish is a better way for him to start.

I agree with the idea of using the least harsh possible process that will work. I don't see any pitting that looks to be very deep, especially on what I can see of the edge. I'll bet it will clean up well for you with steel wool, some metal polish and a touch of elbow grease. The edge will be taken care of by the stones.