$300. Spent And I Still Can't Achieve a Comfortable Shave

Hey guys It's been a while since I've been SRP. But I am really really in need of help!
So I started shaving about 5 years ago on my medium coarse/ coarse facial hair, (which still isn't fully grown yet), I always get irritations and red marks on my neck and these red marks or razor burns last the full day. I shave every 3 or 4 days so my skin has plenty of time to heal.

Last year I spent around $300. on all sorts of shaving equipment, I researched a ton, watched Youtube videos, I've watched Lynn Abrams guides, I've even read dozens of tutorial threads on SRP and some tips from Straight Razor Designs which is where I got my shave ready Ralf Aust 5/8 and my leather strop.
I had everything planned out, for the days I'd use my straight razor and when I can use my safety razor on trips and such. Here's the list of stuff I bought.
-SRD Ralf Aust 5/8
-SRD Leather Strop
-Merkur Safety Razor
-Feather, Derby, and Astra double edge blades
-Parker Brush
-Mikes Natural Shaving Soap, Porasso anti-irritation, Cella, and Taylor of Old Bond Street Sandlewood

I tried and tried and tried and tried, over and over again adjusting my angle to achieve the proper 30 degrees, getting a different soap as recommended from others, soaking my brush longer for a better lather, lathering up my face for extended periods of time, appliying little to zero pressure of the blade on my skin...or applying more pressure, etc, etc.
I think you guys get the point that I've tried everything a million times and the blades still tug at my skin even after professional honing or swapped out blades.

The Experiance:
So whether I'm trying to shave with my Merkur razor or stropped Ralf Aust, I always feel a tug. This is way more prevalent on the Merkur razor, meanwhile the Ralf Aust barely cuts anything-(It'll just glide along the watery smooth lather barely slicing any hair or if it does manage to cut hair It won't be able to get under 1mm of length.)

So I feel the tug, and after I shave my face, my face is usually burning a little bit with razor burns on my face.

Guys I have no idea what to do, my skin is pretty normal and usually can take more of a beating than most people's, I just don't know what to do!!! The only place that I've heard of that's in the Fairfax Virginia area is the "Art of Shaving" but they cost over $50 for one shave.
Is there anyone out there that can teach me?!?!? I've been getting these awful shaves with safety razors, straight razors, and my Phillips Norelco electric shaver.
Here are some pictures of my face after shaving with the Feather on my Merkur, doing 1st pass WTG and my 2nd pass across the grain.

Attachment 230203Attachment 230204Attachment 230205


I am willing to do anything necessary to get at least a "decent" shave without discomfort. Any further guidence or reccomendation will deeply be considered. (I will be reading all comments)

Thanks Everyone For Any Help :)

PS- I do have a little bit of acne, but ever since I began using organic products on my face it's gone down significantly more than what the Dermatologists would typiclly give, (which were always full of chemicals and hormones.)

PSS- My acne is just a slight bump and the same color as my skin, making it hard to notice, but I'd say that half my cuts and burn are on acne and half are on somewhat clear skin.

Update: I do not have any so called razor bumps, its all acne. Trust me on that one, lol. Also before I shave would usually soak my face in hot water for a couple minutes, while having my badger brush soaking for exactly 2min in hot water. After all of this I make a face lather.
One thing to note is that I do not stretch my skin when shaving. I have tried but because my face is covered with a lather I can't get a grip any where with a my finger to stretch the skin. I have never been able to stretch my skin. I also have tried the derby, feather, and astra DE blades and the derby offers the most amount of comfort but it won't cut my facial hair so It requires allot more force than usual to shave. I do have a free ticket to return my Ralf Aust for a free honing by Lynn, but I'm not going to be doing that anytime soon until I can at least shave with my Merkur. Technique comes first.

Merkur Razor: http://www.amazon.com/Merkur-Long-Ha...eywords=merkur

Wow, I feel bad for you. Maybe you can find a mentor in your area, at least I hope so. Is it possible that poor technique stopping dulled the edge on that Aust? It may need honed again. Good luck

The Ralph Aust has been used for less than a dozen times and it's still able to cut the hair off of my arm

Your straight sure sounds like it is dull to me. As for the DE...not sure. I think you probably need some one on one help. Don't give up!

Wish you were closer to see you shave,, could be the straight is dull now from bad stropping, but the feather blade in a DE it's not dull if fresh. That my friend is all you doing that. Your technique really needs help, cutting yourself up like that is not good. Also your beard and face may not be tough enough for a feather blade, they take some experience, and just to be totally honest some guys ain't cut out for this,

I would back up and start fresh, get the razor honed again, then follow the Lynn DVD on first shaves, doing only one piece of your face till your getting comfortable until you get better at your technique. Wanting instant pro results ain't cutting it. From the looks of it you need to slow down. Till you have learned each step of the way.

Hope you get it all worked out , and look for a milder DE and blades, T,c

First off, you'll need to rest your face several days after damage like that before trying your next shave. Now of course it is possible that you have dulled your razor while stropping, so the current state of your straight razor is in question. It really bothers me that that you are having trouble shaving with your Merkur. That's just not right. There has got to be some kind of technique issue going on here. Are you using fresh blades each time? Given the damage to your skin, I would recommend a fresh blade each time. Some people consider Feather blades to be too harsh, so you might want to avoid them. Are you having trouble with all three blade brands?

Make sure that you use a very light touch on your skin. Pressure will cause the damage you are seeing and it will not improve the cutting capacity of either type of razor.

Whoa! That boils down to poor technique first, and a few possibilities after that. Lather being another top culprit. I've found that after getting a few razors "professionally honed" they don't perform as they should. I've been honing since I started shaving, and find coticules to an inferior hone. This will surprise many, I'm sure, but every razor ive ever used off a coti has pulled and tugged like no other. My only saving grace has been japanese naturals. If your interested, I can send you a razor that shaves nicely. Send me a pm and we can work out the details.

PS. I have the thickest facial hair imaginable!

What are you doing for pre shave prep? For some it's a very important step. For me it's the difference between just shaving to a VERY good shave

I could be wrong, but they look much like razor bumps to me . You may wish to try shaving only a couple of times per week and only a single wtg pass with a your Merkur . Try a post shave balm of (four aspirin dissolved in a tablespoon of water and a tablespoon of honey) the salicylic acid helps reduce inflamation and exfoliate the skin helping to release ingrown hair while the honey acts to sooth the skin and kill bacteria. Bumpy skin is tough for any shave system to negotiate.

sounds like a dulled razor resulting in to much pressure being applied
give your skin a week or so to heal & get the razor re-honed it doesn't take much of a bad stropping to kill the edge.
I find that the DE blades are harsh compared to a well honed Str8 also & don't like them in shavette's etc

do you use hot or cold water to shave?
I found cold water shaves to be much less irritating & have only had a couple of warm shaves in over a year & prefer the cold water 100%

also the TOBS Jermyn Street for sensitive skin is a staple in my routine & I find the Porasso (white) alright too

are you using an Alum block before applying your after shave, it will sting a bit looking at the damage you are doing but your skin will heal quicker
JMHO

PS I would take Prodigy up on his offer for sure this will help you to rule out the sharpness

My youngest son can't shave with a feather blade, too sharp. What model Merkur? Could be an aggressive razor. Once your face is healed try one light pass with an Astra blade, with 1 or 2 shaves on it already and see how you go. If you don't get any irritation, try and shave after 2 or 3 days. I personally can't shave with a DE if I have more than 3 days growth. Also are you building a nice lather? Helps protect your face from the blade. Try making it thicker. Last thing, try an after shave balm, helped me a lot when starting out.

I may have read over this I did not see where you are doing any skin stretching, pulling the skin of your face taught might be an issue. I only suggest it because as I scan through the thread I have not seen that mentioned. I know for myself if I don't stretch the skin of the area I am shaving I end up with irritation and nicks. Pull the skin away from the direction you are pulling the razor and see if that helps any. As mentioned too your merker may be an issue. I have an open comb that was passed to me from another member and I keep trying it and I can not get a decent shave with it, seems to be to aggressive for my face. Just some advice from a novice and things I have found to be true, best of luck :D

Maybe a sacrilege here, but if you haven't done so, get a Mach 3 disposable and some canned goop. See if you get a comfortable shave with it. This should isolate the issue to your face or your technique. The disposable is forgiving of technique....then try your fancy soaps with the disposable to ensure the soaps/lather are up to the task...

Agree let your face rest and moisturize it every day to help it heal

Get your razor honed. Prep is key. Use hot water and bar soap and wash your face rubbing the soap in for a minute or two, rinse then lather up. Also 30 degrees sounds steep. Almost like you are scraping more than shaving. Try a shallower angle with the straight, almost flat to the face

Hey noy, I'm still new here myself and haven't yet read the replies, but I've found a few things that have helped me include;

Increasing how many times I strop. I find 50 is optimal(for me). I saw another member said 30 was good but that just wasn't cutting it for me. Try stropping 60 times. If your technique is good it won't hurt the blade.(correct me if I'm wrong, vets.)

Taking a hot shower and soaking/moisturizing your skin. Today after a hot shower I dried my face and shaved with no water/soap/cream...just touched up the edges of my beard and sideburns. I had almost no razor burn. It surprised the hell out of me. It really showed me how much a shower can help compared with just a hot towel put on the face for a couple minutes = huge difference.

Adding glycerin to your lather; this helps the blade glide across the skin and keep it moisturized.

Now on to the biggest tip;

The neck is one of the biggest problem areas for me as well. Tbh, I don't even use my straight on it anymore I just use my GF's safety razor because I lack the patience, hah. BUT(!) when I was shaving my neck with my straight I found going with the grain multiple passes whilst reapplying the soap before each pass really helped. Be gentle and go slow, neck skin is sensitive.

PS I have a 5/8th ralf aust blade and the same strop as you.

Don't give up! Maybe make a video of yourself shaving and post it so that we can see your technique? You might think the angle and such is correct and maybe it is not!

You only showed pictures of your neck, and not your face. If your acne is similar on your face and neck, but only your neck is getting chewed up, it's a technique issue. Your neck is not flat like your cheeks, so remember that you need to adjust the angle of your blade through each stroke; if you maintain the angle from under your chin down your neck, the cut will become more aggressive at the increased angle.

Also, what seems to be a light touch may still be too much pressure. If your lather is too dry, you will have to press harder to "just shave off the lather" and give you razor burn. The lather should look creamy, not pasty, on your face.

Further, you really need to stretch your skin or the blade will grab slack skin. Clean your fingers on a towel, and only apply the cream where you have whiskers. Stretch from a clean area. If this means you lather a small area, shave it, then lather the next, shave that, etc, it may help you find a place to grip without your fingers slipping.

When I shave I wipe off excess lather so I do have some skin to pull on to stretch. Sometimes too, the skin is a little slick. Rub your finger and thumb tips with alum. It seems to grip better or use a wash cloth. Stretching the skin is such an important technique when shaving and makes a world of difference on the closeness of the shave too. Practice stretching your skin dry when you aren't lathered. See what happens when you pull this way or that way. Notice how the skin stretches. Learn your face. It was a lot of trial and error for myself. Learn what works and what doesn't.

:gl:

Agree with Willisf. Stretching the skin is important for a good result. As he said slide your fingers across a whet alumblock. That gives you a grip on the skin. I had the same issue with sliding grip and I find it helps allot. Also the skin must heal completely before the next shave.

I started 9 months ago with straights. Never had any issues like you are having, but I definitely feel that my initial stropping technique was poor and was dulling my edge. I had a Portland Razor initially, and quickly bought an Aust like yours from SRD. I stropped the Portland, but not the Aust so I had a reference of what a shave ready edge should feel like. When I could strop the Portland and it felt as good as the Aust from Lynn then I know I was not damaging the edge.

I would recommend getting your DE technique worked out first. No pressure and watch the angle carefully. If you have a non-aggressive Merkur (e.g. 34HD, not a slant bar) you should not be cutting yourself. Feathers are aggressive, Derbys don't seem sharp enough to me. The Astras seem a nice compromise.

You could get a nice used straight off this site, I have bought two from Rodb for under $50. You need at least one straight with a good shave ready edge to know what it feels like. Alternatively have the Aust honed.

With the straight, try just doing your cheeks and only when you have no problems there should you move on to more contoured parts. Skin stretching is very important and is easily learned doing your sideburns and cheeks. Learn to shave a flat, tightly stretched surface first.

The razor should be moving when it contacts your skin and keep moving as it leaves, short, smooth, confident strokes. It takes practice to develop muscle memory. Maybe use the straight on one cheek and Merkur on the other, do the rest with a cartridge. Experiment and see what works. Learning to use a straight is not a race. It was 30 shaves for me before I could get results like I was getting with my Merkur 34.



Don't give up:)

I would second the astra blades, cold water and you need to be stretching or the shin will bunch in front of the razor and you are going to cause these sorts of problems. Watch all the shave vids and they start at the side burns hand above and stretching and then stretch from a spot that has already been shaved as you continue through. Puffing your cheeks, tilting your neck etc will also help to create flat surfaces for shaving. Start small and I would get decent de shaves before moving back to the straight as it is easier to learn. Good luck

Here is what I would do. Let your face heal for a week. Then go to a barber and let him give you a shave. This will let you know if a good shave is possible. Some states still allow barbers to use straights if not he will use a shavette. At least you will know if it is skin or technique related. Bring your straight maybe he can use it to shave you. Good luck.

Having not read the other advice, my biggest aha moment when I first started was:
Shave for COMFORT, not for closeness of the shave.
My shaves destroyed my skin at first, afterwards when i went for comfort, shaves weren't as good/close, but slowly that changed and at least my skin felt decent and I was able to go out in public looking halfway decent
Good luck, we've all been there at some point, keep at it

Here is a link to find SRP members in your area.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/memberlist.php?do=search

As others said, this appears to be technique related. May be a rolled edge from improper stropping, inadequate beard prep, lack of stretching, etc. The list goes on.

Keep us posted us your progress. That is one scary neck. Ouch.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TristanLudlow

Having not read the other advice, my biggest aha moment when I first started was:
Shave for COMFORT, not for closeness of the shave.
My shaves destroyed my skin at first, afterwards when i went for comfort, shaves weren't as good/close, but slowly that changed and at least my skin felt decent and I was able to go out in public looking halfway decent
Good luck, we've all been there at some point, keep at it

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There is a ton of good advice in many of the posts,,, But that right there is what changed things for me 35 years ago when I stated with a SR

It was painful for me to shave back then using a disposable my neck looked almost as bad as yours if I shaved two days in a row...

I learned to use a SR because everything else HURT so I shaved for comfort the SR allowed the ultimate in adjustment for that..
The shaves got better as I got better but it is always about comfort first

What were you using before you bought the DE razor - and did you have the same problem? You have chosen two of the worst blades to start with - the Feather is very sharp but degenerates very quickly which can lead to too much pressure, and the Derby blades are classed as very poor. The Astra should be OK - so my advice would be to concentrate on using the DE for now and forget the straight for the time being.

By doing this you reduce the number of variables - practice building lather in a bowl using the same brush and soaps - this will let you know how much water is required to get a consistent lather. Try two with the grain passes in the problem area rather than XTG or ATG - you may have to do some beard mapping to establish just what direction your neck hair grows. Most important is what Glen said - don't push it.

firstly i have not read the whole thread, but i think that skin stretching is important for a good shave, to effectively stretch you need to use your facial muscles, as well as a bit of forward planning:
To strech the sideburn and cheek area pull up and back from above the sideburn, use lower jawbone to stretch downwards at same time. (yes you will look like a monkey).
For your jawline either stretch it up onto your cheek, tilt head down to side you are shaving.
Chins are tricky, i shve in on a bit of an angle, and use my lip and chin muscles to stretch the skin.
On my upper lip again i shave in at a bit of an angle, use a bit of inflation and also pulling outwards with my thumb on the cheekbone area.
To stretch your neck I would turn my head slightly in the oposite direction and tilt upwards towards the side oposite to which i wasd shaving, and pull down on the side i am shaving close to my collarbone.

Some of these stretches will vary a bit for the second pass but you will work out what works, the trick is to start from the edges somewhere so that you are creating relatively lather free areas.
A suggestion that I have read is to use a bit of alum or styptic on your finger to improve grip.

Don't forget that the 30 degree angle is firstly a guideline and that your face isn't flat so you have to constantly adjust it to the curve of where you are shaving.

With your straight did you try holding the razor almost flat and then slowly increasing the angle to find a comfortable angle?
I dont use safety razors often but when I do, to find a good angle i will start with the head of the razor on my face and slowly roll it as I am drawing it down the pass until it feels like it it is cutting.

It looks like a lot of those that responded didn't notice that you said that this picture shows what happened when you were shaving with a Merkur safety razor. You didn't mention which Merkur you were using. That information might help. The Merkur 34C is a very mild razor and if you don't have that model I would suggest that you get one. Use a mild blade such as a Derby or an Astra -- not a Feather. A Feather is so sharp that it will remove skin imperfections rather than ride over them, which is what it looks like is happening here. For the time being, just stick with the safety razor until your issues get sorted out.

Also, you you said that this is the result of shaving WTG and XTG. First, I would suggest that if you haven't mapped the hair on your neck that you do so. You really need to know for sure which direction is with the grain and which direction is across and against the grain for every part of your neck.

I would also suggest that for a while only do one pass with the grain on your neck and then let us know if you are getting skin irritation. If, afterwards, you don't have irritation, then I would suggest doing a single pass shave every day for a while so that the whiskers don't have a chance to get very long before they are removed again. The neck is the most sensitive area that we normally shave and some people just can not shave XTG or ATG on their necks. You may be one of them. After your skin heals up, try that and report back with the results. If that works then you can try two passes WTG if you want a better shave.

It very well could be that the hair on your neck is growing in all kinds of directions and that could be an issue as well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Uzi

It looks like a lot of those that responded didn't notice that you said that this picture shows what happened when you were shaving with a Merkur safety razor. You didn't mention which Merkur you were using. That information might help. The Merkur 34C is a very mild razor and if you don't have that model I would suggest that you get one. Use a mild blade such as a Derby or an Astra -- not a Feather. A Feather is so sharp that it will remove skin imperfections rather than ride over them, which is what it looks like is happening here. For the time being, just stick with the safety razor until your issues get sorted out.

Also, you you said that this is the result of shaving WTG and XTG. First, I would suggest that if you haven't mapped the hair on your neck that you do so. You really need to know for sure which direction is with the grain and which direction is across and against the grain for every part of your neck.

I would also suggest that for a while only do one pass with the grain on your neck and then let us know if you are getting skin irritation. If, afterwards, you don't have irritation, then I would suggest doing a single pass shave every day for a while so that the whiskers don't have a chance to get very long before they are removed again. The neck is the most sensitive area that we normally shave and some people just can not shave XTG or ATG on their necks. You may be one of them. After your skin heals up, try that and report back with the results. If that works then you can try two passes WTG if you want a better shave.

It very well could be that the hair on your neck is growing in all kinds of directions and that could be an issue as well.

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Thank you. That particular shave was with the Merkur 23c. I got this razor for $20 on amazon last year. I'm going to buy the 34c today. I'm not sure if this is it or not.
http://www.amazon.com/Merkur-Heavy-C...rds=merkur+34c

Thanks so much guys for all of the feedback, I've been reading everyone's suggestions and I've been taking notes to read over before my next shave. I am so glad to be apart of this community, and am so humbled with the responses :)
After I get this problem solved I can't wait to share it to someone struggling with something similar to me!

Time to breath. You need to take a big step backward and then follow an experiment process. You're looking for the culprit. Go back to whatever shave process actually worked. Is there one? Even if it involved a Bic disposable and Barbasol foam in a can. Shave with this combo for a little while until your skin goes back to normal without irritation.

Now from here you make one change at a time. First I would change the prep to what you would do as if you were going to use an SR but still use your Bic. Anything happen? If no then move on to lather and so on. You may find something out that you least expected. If nothing else you will eliminate potential contributing factors and narrowing down to the real problem. I would not change from the Bic until the last move. Then go straight to the SR. I would skip the Merk and Feather because it just adds unneeded complication to the experiment. If you get this again then you know its razor/technique related.

I hated DE blades, didn't like how they felt, didn't like how they shaved, didn't like their thin steel, didn't like anything about it.
I dedicate my DE razors and blades to shaving everything, besides my face. But that's just me, the day I shave my face with a DE razor and blade is an extremely rare occurrence.
I wouldn't waste my time with DE shaving before going to SR shaving if I were to do it over again, it did learn me some things, like I'd rather use a SR.
Ah well, it's outstanding for all other hair removal for me.
Giddddyupppp

Quote:

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Originally Posted by noy99

Thank you. That particular shave was with the Merkur 23c. I got this razor for $20 on amazon last year. I'm going to buy the 34c today. I'm not sure if this is it or not.
http://www.amazon.com/Merkur-Heavy-C...rds=merkur+34c

Thanks so much guys for all of the feedback, I've been reading everyone's suggestions and I've been taking notes to read over before my next shave. I am so glad to be apart of this community, and am so humbled with the responses :)
After I get this problem solved I can't wait to share it to someone struggling with something similar to me!

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Yes. That's the one.

Late to the party, but you should go against all instincts and advice and try a full-on cold water shave. No prep, just cold water and a lather. Your razor could have come not sharp enough - mine did - but problems with the Merkur, which I also have, says its something else.

Cold water. Try it.

[Oh, also, try a Derby blade. Easier on an inexperienced face than a Feather]

Same trouble I used to have when I was younger. No problem above the jawline and lots of it below. I have tried a lot and eventually got the best shaves with a straight.
After you have rested your skin try again. Use a sharp razor that will cut hairs without pressure. You really do have to stretch your skin while you shave. Don't use any downward pressure. I shave with dry hands that give me good grip on a piece of unlathered skin. Use after shave balm without alcohol.
And resist the temptation to buy more hardware. It is a common beginners' mistake to buy more equipment instead of gaining experience with the stuff you already have.
Good luck.

Hi
You may not be using the right razor for you
Your face reminds me of my first shaves, that is until some one told me to start shaving with cold water.
I know all the shaving sites say warm/hot water to soften the beard, But.
The skin is soft too.

I used DE shavers for years. I went to a Shick injector for a long time until blades got hard to find.
THen the multi blades. I am using a Mach 3 now when not trying to use a SR. Norelcos in between, but never a close have with them.
I am getting good shaved from a SR now. 58 years of shaving.
Good luck. Let your face heal and then cold water and alum sticks.

I apologize for not seeing this thread when it was hot 'n fresh. But I need to chime in, as I recognized your screen name from when you started this journey. You had come here about a month or so after I started with a SR, having already learned a few things the hard way.

For some reference, I link your original thread related to this...
http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...ml#post1481900 - Post #41, by you.
And...
http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...ml#post1481917 - My response, advice on lather.
Then...
http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...ml#post1482161 - Where you did the exact opposite of most of the advice given.

I believe the last advice I gave out on that thread was for you to find an SRP member in your area. That advice still stands, and is your best chance of shaving salvation at this point!!!
http://straightrazorpalace.com/memberlist.php?do=search
Please, please, PLEASE use the link above to find someone nearby!! You may have to try different search terms to get usable results, as the forum hasn't instated a uniform format for user locations.

One last thing. And it's worth :deadhorse: (repeating). Skin stretching is crucial. Especially on the neck, though the stretching there tends to be more like trying to do yoga from the shoulders & up. Neck hair (for most) tends to be a crazy tropical storm of fine hairs that lay nearly flat against the skin. Skin stretching not only helps prevent the razor's edge from digging in, but it also helps to force those stubborn, fine little hairs to stand up.

If you can't manage to get a local mentor, make a video of your shave. That way we can assess your technique, and make constructive criticisms where applicable.

If you post a vid, I will finally get around to making a second shaving video to post. Maybe a community "Swappin' Shave Vids" thread might be good for remote assistance/comparison purposes? :shrug: For the community as a whole...

So sorry to see and gear, it appears to me that it to much ptessure on your skun lighten up , and when I was starting out I found feather to be to sharp, and decided to try Astra, so when I must shave with a DE Astra is my blade of choice. There may also be an issue with your lather to as well as prep that can make a shave look like the picture you have posted.
If you can't get a grip to stretch your skin, try different face expeditions, also u could put dome presure on different parts of the neck to help you stretch the skin..

Also as Crewler stated, coud you post, a prep, lather, shave vid.

A few months ago I abandoned cartridges and started DE shaving, with an Edwin Jagger DE 89 and large assortment of blades. I had red spots on my neck for about 2 weeks, much like the ones in your pictures. I reviewed all the advice etc, and I thought I was using light pressure, but it turned out the pressure was the problem. I started truly letting the weight of the razor do the work, knowing that anything I missed on the first pass would get picked up on the second or third. I feels weird at first, as if you're not really shaving. But since doing that, I have no more irritation and very close shaves. My advice would be, if you think you're using light pressure, try using even lighter.
I've also started straight razor shaving (or rather started over, because I used to do it about 30 years ago), and found the same thing - light pressure is essential. The other fundamental thing did wrong with the straight was too much angle, about 30 degrees. I watched Lynn's basic shave video last week and understood the real angle is a lot less, a spine thickness or two. No more nicks since then.
Hope you work out the problems.