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No, I don't set the stabilizer on (thanks for the graphic). I do lead with the heel, and draw away diagonally, which is why I'm thinking the point end is getting more action. Will a stroke with a 45 degree heel lead accomplish pretty much the same thing as an X stroke?Quote:
Originally Posted by dinnermint
I've just done a search for sharpie test, got some idea, but I'm going to be lazy and ask you to provide me an explanation or a link?Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrasoundguy2003
Use a sharpie to color the edge before you go to the hones. It will quickly let you see where you are and are not making contact on the hones (Steel that is making contact with the hone will be silver and untouched edges will still be black or whatever color you used.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mohawkshaver1
I like to do an X stroke on both sides to start with. Then you can re-apply the sharpie and continue on.
Remember it's only a guide but it does help.
Ultimately should all the sharpie be removed by one pass?
No heel forward, and X strokes are different though they can be combined, mostly with smiling edges.
The purpose of the different strokes is to compensate for defects in a razor and hone problem areas of the bevel, by shifting the pressure to reach those areas.
Typically an X stroke hones all the part of a razor evenly from the heel to the toe, and specifically shifting more pressure to the toe.
If you do a straight stroke all the time, the middle of the razor will get honed more than the heel or toe and the edge will develop a frown.
A heel forward stroke will put more pressure on the heel and can avoid high stabilizers. A great stroke when the heel needs more attention, then as said some X strokes will blend the bevel smooth.
But if you combine the heel forward with an X stroke, starting out with heel forward and keep the heel on the stone, at least half the length of lateral travel. Then drop the heel off the stone, taking the stabilizer out of play, you can swing the toe in a graceful arc to the lower corner in a swooping X stroke and shift the pressure to the toe and hone the whole bevel with each stroke.
Here is a great simulation from the Library of the different honing strokes. Strokes for Honing a Razor.
The swooping X stroke is what I am describing only with the heel on the stone longer, if you do the stroke as pictured you see how little time the heel is on the stone.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mohawkshaver1
It's only a guide, if you get more color removed with additional strokes you can see how you are doing.Quote:
Originally Posted by cudarunner
If you've removed all of the color then reapply and then go back and see how it looks with one stroke.
It's Only A Guide.
Euclid440 made some great points and a visual to help you understand.:bow:
Excellent, thanks guys. Now first things first: soak the blade in some WD40 to get rid of spots. Slow progress w two small boys around & the wife away :p I will keep you posted.
“Ultimately should all the sharpie be removed by one pass?”
It depends on the flatness of the razor the shape of the edge and the stroke you are using, if all the ink will come off in one pass, usually not.
What you want to see is that you are honing to the edge. If not you can alter your stroke or watch to see if you are making progress flattening the bevel moving towards the edge.
Keep inking the bevel, to see your progress. It is a great way to learn what is happening to the bevel and edge, as you adjust pressure and stroke. With more experience you will need to rely on ink less, but I still usually ink a bevel the first time I put a new razor on a stone, just to see what the angle is and the condition of the blade, flatness of the bevel and twist or warp of the blade and how it sits on the stone. Ink is cheap and it quickly tells you a lot.
I use colored ink, red or blue it is much easier to see than black that can look like a shadow. You don’t even need magnification often.
WD40 and some 000 steel wool followed by 1k wet and dry and WD40 will get a nice polish and then a good metal polish Mothers or Maas will shine it up.
OK, so I don't know what's with these spots. I soaked in WD40 and scrubbed w steel wool several times and they show no signs of disappearing. Not too worried about it, as I plan on moving to my better razor once I learn to get this shave sharp. It fits loose in the scales, which is a little annoying and probably not terribly safe.
Anyway, I believe I got a good bevel on my edge. I confess I was too pressed for time and impatient to try the sharpie test. Now I'm thinking it was my fine work that was the problem. I was continuing to use two hands with the 8K, and I also have a 12K, and I was standing up doing it. I then sat down at eye level and used one hand, watching the ripple as you guys recommended, and realized how sloppy and forceful I have been. Right now I'm having good success with a swaty stone lubed w shaving cream, just making many gentle one-handed x-strokes, which has produced an edge passing the thumbnail test & cuts arm hairs (still not really "popping" them). As for stropping, I rubbed shaving cream into it and let dry (as recommended in classic Art of Shaving book - I also got shaving cream on barber hone idea from that book too - I confess I'm a sucker for the old school coolness factor). So that has improved action of strop (which was brand new & a little stiff). After this I shaved some dry hair on my face with what seemed to be the efficiency of a DE. Actual shave test to follow tomorrow. :gl:
All is good.
First taking the time to do the sharpie test and pictures makes us feel like we taught something good.
I was just like you and off to the races as well.
You get a great shave and off to help another for us.
If you dont get a great shave, we all go back to start.
Wife and 2 kids, leaves little free time for sharpie tests and pictures.
I wish you the best. We want to know that you were successful.
