Help with preventing rust

So I got this razor in today and after a lot of research on how to disinfect a razor, I read that 70% alcohol is one of the few safe ways for a gold plated razor. I also was disinfecting another blade and read on one of the wikis here that Clorox wipes with no bleach will kill everything and I gave this blade a pass with it too. After shaving and washing it with soap and water I dried it, let it air dry and put it away in the way paper and box it came in. A little while later I came back to look at it and this is what it looks like. How do I clean it and prevent this from happening in the future ? Attachment 259267Attachment 259267

It may not contain bleach, but probably contained citric acid which attacked the blade.
Mother's Mag polish (or Flitz, or Maas, or Blue Magic) on a qtip and start rubbing the rust off, but be careful because you can remove the gold.

Next time stick to alcohol or soap and water. Dry thoroughly and then strop the blade 25 times or so to dry the cutting edge.

I will definitely get one of those. In the mean time I searched how to get rid of rust in the forums and someone said to try toothpaste, so I did and it took it right off. Need to get an oil to cost the blade with when I'm done using it. This is what it looks like after the toothpaste. Attachment 259270

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Originally Posted by criswilson10

It may not contain bleach, but probably contained citric acid which attacked the blade.
Mother's Mag polish (or Flitz, or Maas, or Blue Magic) on a qtip and start rubbing the rust off, but be careful because you can remove the gold.

Next time stick to alcohol or soap and water. Dry thoroughly and then strop the blade 25 times or so to dry the cutting edge.

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Nice job!! On the cheap to boot!!!:beer1:

Although 70% isopropyl alcohol can be used to disinfect a blade, remember that the alcohol contains 30% water. At that concentration, the alcohol will evaporate faster than the water leaving water behind. That is not ideal.

If 91% isopropyl alcohol is available in your area, it is a much better alternative. It is no better at disinfecting, it is more expensive and it has a stronger aroma. However, 91% concentration by volume, the mixture is azeotropic. That means the alcohol and water evaporate at the same rate such that the concentration remains at 91%. Thus, moisture is not left behind on the blade.

Another good disinfecting solution Baribcide. It is normally available as a concentrate that is mixed with water. A small bottle can last a long time. It is designed for use by professional barbers and cosmetologists to clean and disinfect razors, scissors, combs, etc. It is a great disinfectant, killing bacteria, fungi, and viruses. It contains alcohol to help with drying. It contains additives to protect your razor from corrosion.

I use Barbicide to disinfect any new razor before first use. If I am sending a razor to someone else, I will also disinfect it. Be sure you dip only the blade into the diluted Barbicide. It might damage or discolor some types of scales.

With DE razors, after shaving, I rinse the razor and wipe off external moisture. I then dip the head of the razor in Barbicide solution, shake off the excess and hang the razor to dry.

For my normal day to day straight razor maintenance, I rinse and wipe off my blade. Then I wipe my blade with a mixture of half 91% alcohol and half oil. The alcohol evaporates removing residual moisture and leaving behind a thin film of protective oil. I suggest using a non-toxic oil such as Ultra Lube, Ballistol, or mineral oil, but other oils can be used as well. Camellia oil is the traditional oil used to protect Japanese blades.

In short, rinse, dry with tissue, blow out pivot then light coat of oil. Leave open till next day. Then close and put away. I store mine on a display board and it keeps blades open.

After rinsing I dry mine on a towel then get one or two pieces of toilet paper and dry the blade further, then fold it and run it up and down between the scales. I've kept all my razors rust free this way. If you want to disinfect a new one just spray it with lysol and/or wash with antibacterial soap, then dry as I described. If you have one you won't use for a over a month or so, then a light coat of oil will be extra precaution.

i put Renaissance Wax on all my razors and am careful not to get water in the pivot when using. Always just dry them with a piece of toilet paper and then strop. let it dry out in the open over night (just to make sure there is no moisture to infect my other razors) before storing in a closed cedar box.

When shaving I always dry my hands before holding the razor and make sure the scales doesn't get wet and water doesn't go into the pivot. After I finish shaving I thoroughly dry the razor, including slipping a piece of cloth between the scales just to make sure it's dry, strop it and put it away. Before I started using straight one thing I learned try to avoid getting any water into the scales and the pivot as it takes a while to dry and could cause the blade to rust.

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Originally Posted by Nicolas0103

I also was disinfecting another blade and read on one of the wikis here that Clorox wipes with no bleach will kill everything and I gave this blade a pass with it too.

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If you saw that on the SRP Library, you missed the bold print at the top ;)

The following is NOT suitable for razors! It will oxidize the high carbon steel (even stanless razors are made of steel with high carbon content) and will destroy the edge!

I would maintain oiling post use. Even if the razor is dried, humidity in the air can restart the rust process.

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Originally Posted by RayClem

I use Barbicide to disinfect any new razor before first use. If I am sending a razor to someone else, I will also disinfect it. Be sure you dip only the blade into the diluted Barbicide. It might damage or discolor some types of scales. .

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I always have to shake me head in sadness when I see beautiful cracked ice/pearl scales that have been turned blue from a dunking in Barbicide show up on Ebay. And more often than not, they left it there long enough that the blades have begun to corrode too.

I may be OCD, but every time I hone or refresh a blade I apply "Tuff-Glide Marine". Then,
after each shave, I dry the blade and then dip it in a 200/1 mix of 91% isopropol alcohol/mineral oil.
Then let it air dry and strop it before putting it away.

Alcohol may be bad news for some scale materials, so be careful to treat the blade only.

If there is ever any sign of rust or corrosion, the blade gets an immediate cleaning with
Maas metal cleaner. Then back to the Tuff-Glide etc routine.

You can either remove the razor from the bathroom to avoid moisture or simply apply vaseline after you're done shaving.

One of the best products to have in your shop is Ballistol. Yes it is a gun lube & cleaner but also so much more! It works great on metal, leather or what have you. I use it on my vintage shell horse hide strops. Also a great cutting oil. About once a month I wipe down all my razors with Ballistol.
I have tried other CLP products but I a back to Ballistol. You can get it at Gander Mountain & direct from the company at ballistol.com also at many gun shops.

Slawman