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Morning SRP family. Being new to this forum, forgive me being in the wrong place. I recently purchased a 3k8k combo stone(water),10k water and 12k Shapton. I’m getting into honing videos trying to learn honing. Purchased a cheap GD to learn on. Am I on the path to a shave edge or would a 15k be an advisable addition? Thanks in advance!
In starting out, and brands' grit ratings sometimes being different than what is claimed, I would suggest concentrating on the 3k/8k combo and trying to get the best shaving edge off the 8k, before moving to other hones. Of the higher synth stones, the 10k and 15k seem a bit redundant, especially if the 12k is there. Once the 8k shaving edge has been arrived at, I would recommend just using the 12k to improve it in the short run. All too easy to be confused by a plethora of hones.
Not sure if the bevel needs to be set from factory GDs, but if it does, then you might need a 1k or 800 stone prior to that 3k. Perhaps the recently-purchased 10k hone could still be returned for a refund or exchange?
Typically you want to jump in honing by a factor of two. So the honing progression should be along the lines of 1k, 2k, 4k, 8k, 16k, 32k.
Personally I usually use 1k, 4k, 8k, 12k, CrOx paste (30k approximately).
So your 10k and 12k are a bit redundant, but both are effective. Try them both and see which one you like better.
GD razors are a good place to start honing but, the standard 66 (i think) is one that has the stablizer in the way for honing. So it would need the stabilizer fixed before a serious honing can be done and come out right. You can google how to fix it as its been done over and over. A low cost user grade vintage from eBay would have been a better choice for learning to hone on. I started with a couple ZY razors. Same quality as the GD but no stabilizers.
Its best to stay with one brand of hone when learning because of grit differences between brands. They are not all exactly 3k from brand to brand but it can be done. Some guys learn to like a certain brand hone in a certain grit and do have a mixed set, but its from experiance in playing with lots of stones and they made a favorite choice.
I use Naniwa stones. My 1k is the pro but 2k,3k,5k,8k,12k is superstones. Still all Naniwas. A 10 and 12k are a bit redundant. Too close as was said. I have a 1k, 2k, 3k but dont use 1k, 2k, 3k in that order as its too small of a jump. X2 is a standard in progression. But not a rule. Some jump more than X2 by a little and other less than X2 a little, but its always close to X2. And learning to shave and learning to hone at the same time is not a good idea. Learning to shave needs to be done with a pro honed razor. Not a semi correct edge!
Honing is very personal. Some use progressions, some don't. Once you have the bevel set where you want to go from there is wide open. I agree a 12K and 15K would be redundant since many consider them both finishing hones
As others have said, you do not need both a 10K and 12K hone. However, I have a full progression of Naniwa SuperStones, so I have both.
Although some people love using the 12K as a finisher, I prefer finishing on natural stones, so if I am doing a full progression from bevel set to finishing, I often progress up to the 10K and then jump to natural stones for finishing. It works for me, but might not work for you.
The GD 66 is crudely made, although they do offer steel for those who want to mod them. In have GD 208 and 300 carbon steel razors and GD 600 and 800 stainless steel razors. They have a little better workmanship than the GD 66. I learned to hone on the GD razors and every one of them now gives a great shave. The scales on the GD 300 were pretty flimsy, so that is my least favorite.
Thebestshave has raised an excellent question. What is the better way to start honing. I would suggest as he has started with a 3/8 combo. But I'd put my money towards the buy of some fleabay straights so I'd have the experience on different blades and learn how to get the most out of that combination stone. I would not fuss with a Gold Dollar razor. Instead I'd recommend looking for some of the New York manufactured razors.Quote:
Originally Posted by Thebestshave
You might wanna think about a 1k stone.Quote:
Originally Posted by Thebestshave
I would also say that learning to hone is some thing you have to teach yourself through trial and error or maybe a one on one.
The problem with purchasing vintage razors is that unless you purchase one that has been restored by someone who knows what they are doing, newcomers usually do not know how to properly evaluate vintage razors. I know I did not.Quote:
Originally Posted by BanjoTom
I have a couple of razors I purchased at an antique store. On a Torrey, once I removed the rust, I found a microscopic crack in the edge of the razor that prevented me from restoring it. Fortunately, I only paid $10.
Also, I got an H Boker USA razor for $20. Although I was able to restore a shaving edge, it will take a lot more work to remove the pitting from the blade.
I did purchase a W&B 7/8" FBU on an online auction that was in decent condition, but I paid $45. I wanted a W&B in my collection, but that is more than I would have wanted to pay to for a razor to practice honing.
I do have a Wostenholm that I inherited from my uncle. It was in excellent condition. It is a wonderful shaver. However, he also had a Shumate with a ding in the tone. I removed the ding, but have yet to be able to get that razor to take a decent edge.
Workmanship on GD razors is not the best, but I have yet to see a post from anyone indicating that the steel is not capable of taking a shaving edge. A GD may not hold an edge as well as some better quality razors, but they are easy to hone once you deal with the stabilizer issue. Even though I have better razors in my collection, I still include GDs in my rotation as I always get a decent shave from them.
If a factory GD razor then you will need to set the bevel then the 3/8 stone next. Until you are getting a good comfortable shaving edge off the 8k there's no point moving forward.
High grit bones polish your final edge. Unless you get the basics right all the do is make a crap edge look shiny. It's easy to get caught up in belief that finishing hones will bring a great edge. They dont it all the basic low grit work that gets a great edge.