Beginner's Razor Question

Hello, I'm looking for a little advice on selecting my first razor (or two). From the info in the Library, and browsing some of the forum discussions, I've gathered that I want

• Size: 5/8 or 6/8 (I've seen a suggestion that it is a little easier to establish the correct blade angle against the face with 6/8. Is this a big factor?
• Grind: full hollow but not extra hollow (i.e. singing) (too springy)
• Point: rounded or "blunted" (more on that below), not spiked
• Source (first choice): a ready to shave razor found on the B/S/T forum here
• Source (second choice): a new razor from one of the recommended brands

Does this cover the basics of what I should look for?

On the question of the point, I understand why I would not want to start with a spiked point. But there seem to be two kinds of square point blades. Some have a true 90 degree corner at the end, and some have a very small radius curve, much smaller than a round point, but not an angular corner. Do the really square ones count as spiked point blades, and would the ones with a rounded corner be considered "blunted", and perhaps acceptable for a beginner? And where do Spanish or French points fit in?

As for new razors, I see the only 3 recommended (other than custom builders) are Dovo, Thiers-Issard, and Böker. But what about Ralf Aust? They are not on the "avoid list". Are only their vintage razors recommended?

Yes,it does!i

In my opinion, any square point leaves less room for error when first using a straight. However, they can be “muted” to make them less likely to nick.

Mostly it’s about your confidence and technique when beginning...and “beginning” can last a while. There is so much to discover: the contours of your face, the direction(s) your beard grows, angles and strokes for different facial areas, your grip techniques and style, use of your offhand, proper stropping, etc.

The right razor only helps you address some of those areas.

Any blade with a sharp point either at the heel or the toe will eventually catch a piece of your face or nose or ear until you become more adept at manipulating the razor - rule of thumb: it takes at least 100 shaves to develop reasonable technique and muscle memory. That’s why a round or French point is suggested for those new to shaving with a straight.

Larger blades are more difficult to finesse when you are first starting out. Hence the recommendation for a 5/8 or 6/8 as a starter. I’ve been straight shaving for a long time and still happily use a 4/8 in my rotation.

Extra hollows flex when shaving, are a tad more difficult to keep sharp and the edges are more susceptible to damage, because the edges are thinner and more flexible. For that reason, they can be more trouble for a newbie than the other grinds. You have to adjust your touch and keep in mind that you shave the lather, not the skin. That takes a while to get, but comes with practice.

There aren’t that many makers mass producing razors. The ones you listed are the most popular and easiest to find. Ralp Aust makes good razors too, but not in the quantity that Dovo, TI and Boker do. FYI - There have been some quality control issues reported recently related to the grind on Dovo razors, but none that I’ve seen on SRP for the other manufacturers. Also, new razors often do not arrive shave ready and have to be properly honed before they are. If you do buy a new razor, make sure you get it from a vendor who will hone it properly before you take possession.

There are several reasons we often recommend buying a used or vintage razor from the BST forum:
- It will have been used and maintained by someone who knows how to do it properly.
- It will be a functioning razor and not something that only resembles one.
- It will be cheaper than a new razor of the same quality.
- Your use of it will be supported by the SRP community.
- It supports members of this community and enables them to fall further down their acquisition disorder rabbit holes.

Welcome to the forum. I can't add much more to what the previous posters have said other than to say you can add Revisor to your list of modern razor makers. They also carry vintage razors.

https://www.revisor-solingen.de/index.php/en/

Be aware that it is not uncommon for modern razors to leave the factory with edges that are not really shave ready. I'd buy from a reputable retailer who hones them to shave ready before shipping.

Bob

My recommendation for newcomers is for a 6/8" full hollow blade with a round point. One of the most difficult aspects of learning to shave is getting the angle right. I find a 6/8 blade to be far easier than a 5/8 when it comes to finding the angle. Although I love 7/8" razors, the larger blade size can block your view when shaving critical areas, so leave them for later.

The reason for choosing a round point is to give you more confidence when starting. However, my RA had a Spanish point that was not an issue for me.

One of my first razors was a Ralf Aust 6/8". Although I have many razors now, that razor is still one of my favorites. RA does good work. He is a one man show. If you want to see what his shop look like, Brad Maggard visited Solingen and toured the shop. The home page of the Maggard Razors web site has the report of the visit. It is fascinating read.

Good advice above. One thing I'll expand on is "muting" the point. In a nutshell, this slightly dulls the *very* point of the blade. Not so much that it damages the blade or makes it impossible to later "un-mute" at a later date, but just enough that it will protect one's nose, ears, and other common targets that one often discovers with the toe of a razor when starting out.

The reason I'm expanding on this is that if you *really* have your heart set on a particular style of blade, don't let the presence of a pointy, well, point put you off. If you really want a Spanish or spike point, better to get that, mute the point, and enjoy it than get something different that you really don't want.

Whatever you decide, enjoy!

:tu

That's a very interesting point about blunting, Cangooner. So the razor can have an actually point, but have the cutting edge dulled just at that spot.

I've seen square point razors that have two different styles at the leading corner. In one style, the corner is a 90 degree angle, like this.
Attachment 301278


In the other style, there is a small radius curve at that corner, but not a large curve than spans the entire end of the razor like a curved point razer would have. Here is an example:
Attachment 301277

Are these both called "Square Point", or is there a more proper name for the one with the little curve at the corner?

Consider the Wacker brand too. Excellent workmanship.

Wacker? :shrug:

Wacker Jungmeister 1087 7/8" Straight Razor with Horn Handle | The Superior ShaveThe Superior Shave

Here’s just a sample. They are top quality fine razors. I’ve got three and they’re great. Made by Heribert Wacker... old school guy. Maybe deceased by now. I don’t know.

Oh yes! Been a while since I heard the name.
Nice stuff. Big dollar. I think old blanks finished?

Depends on who you ask, some say the rounded spike is a square point.

If you mute, one stroke on the corner is enough to keep it from cutting. But really as you get more experience, you may want that point back. In your example to properly reinstate the square point about a 1/16 of an inch will have to come off the end, one could hone the rounded tip, if it was properly muted it could be reinstated in the course of normal honing.

Spike tips are very use full, like most things it is just what you get use to. It’s a razor, it is sharp, be careful and pay attention. I started with a spike and still prefer a spike, though I love the French grind. All my razor have keen points and heels, I shave with the whole razor.

Buy a Vintage razor, you can buy a lot more razor for your money, and I believe you get a lot more razor for your money. I collect one particular brand that you can still buy new, but I can buy pristine vintage razors for less that half the cost of new, and the new don’t hold a candle to the vintage, it terms of shaving and ability to hold an edge, let alone fit and finish.

Right now in the BST, there are several great razors right around $100, a few dollars over and under and 3-4 smoking razors at $30. Any of these razors will last you a lifetime and are great starter razors.

New shave ready Razors are available from Maggards, Classic Edge, Hendrix Classics and a couple other spots that the names of escape me at the moment. Not all people selling new razors ensure that they are shave ready. The above mentioned places do.

Hello Pincorrect and Welcome to SRP...... everyone here has pretty much said it all and well at that. It all comes down to you now. I am just going to add my two cents to the grind part. I have a Dovo full hollow and a Dovo 1/4 grind (wedgier). I have a semi tough stub that grows in all directions. I like that 1/4 grind for that beefier blade edge when I need to mow down the jungle as it were. I like to use my full hollow for more detail shaving as it's more refined. Good shaves to you sir . :chapeau

Check out the Buy Sell Trade section. There are some nice razors on there right now that would suit you! Good luck and smoothe shaves to you!


Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

[Wacker] I think old blanks finished?

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Not anymore, and not for many years. All German razor makers use Herkenrath blanks these days. Except Revisor.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nightblade

Hello Pincorrect and Welcome to SRP...... everyone here has pretty much said it all and well at that. It all comes down to you now. I am just going to add my two cents to the grind part. I have a Dovo full hollow and a Dovo 1/4 grind (wedgier). I have a semi tough stub that grows in all directions. I like that 1/4 grind for that beefier blade edge when I need to mow down the jungle as it were. I like to use my full hollow for more detail shaving as it's more refined. Good shaves to you sir . :chapeau

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That being said and thought about now, don't let a wedgier blade give you any idea of not still applying light pressure, beefier or not either way it'll bite you if you let it.:angel:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RezDog

New shave ready Razors are available from Maggards, Classic Edge, Hendrix Classics and a couple other spots that the names of escape me at the moment. Not all people selling new razors ensure that they are shave ready. The above mentioned places do.

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Just don't confuse Classic Edge with Classic Shaving. The Classic Shaving site is now part of The Grooming Network. What was once a great independent vendor is a shadow of it's former glory. CS advertises razors as "shave ready", but from my experience and reports from others, they do not all meet that standard. However, they do sell a Mastro Livi razor for $950, that is likely to be shave ready.

Thanks RayChem. I looked at Maggards, and I'll check the others. But best of all, I found some nice ones on B/S/T. Actually, I'm starting to understand how Razor Acquisition Syndrome develops.