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Before the database crash, I was talking about how tough my beard is. Someone suggested that I may want to try using a "wedge" or something other than a "full hollow" razor.
Does anyone wish to discuss this with me and give me some advice? You can pm me, or if you want to discuss it so others can share, go ahead and keep it on the forum.
Thanks
The heavier grinds flex less and cut moove smoothly, IMO. But was really matters is beard prep and razor sharpness.
Just curious how your prep and blade is care to tell us about them?
I agree with syslight. I have a very thick, stubborn beard. Especially so if I skip a day or two and get some serious stubble. I have found the following things helpful:
1) the grind of the razor doesn't matter so much. I use a semi-hollow dovo most of the time and it does fine
2) your razor must be in tip top condition. that razor that needs to be touched up on the hone, but you are putting it off? don't use that one.
3) lather, lather, lather. brush your face like crazy to set your beard up.
4) many light passes will hurt a lot less than one deep pass. don't think of each pass as totally shaving hair off. think of it as shortening the hair that remains. it's no good to try and get it all in one pass if you have tough stubble.
5) don't be afraid to relather often during your shave
i dont have all the experience your looking for,just since about october, i have a heavey thick white grey beard, much thicker than when the hair was brown when i was younger. the 2 blades i have are a quarter hollow and a somewhat wedgey style blade. the wedge glides smoothly and quietly when cutting and gives a descent shave, the quarter hollow doesnt glide as nicely, makes a slight noise when shaving, but cuts a smoother bbs shave. i rotate them from day to day and i think going from one to the other helps fight some of the irritation i was getting from just using the quarter hollow, i dont get any irritation with them now.
I agree that prep, lather, and technique are the most important but i do like the heavier grinds. I find that I have to get the thinner ones sharper to do the same on my tough areas and restrop between passes with some of my xtra hollow grinds. This can make a close but harsh shave. I like the sheffields for that reason.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jockeys
I am not currently using a straight razor. I have a full beard but shave my lower neck and upper cheeks with a DE. I have been using warm shaving soap for years, and relather between directions (meaning ATG and WTG). I think I know preparation well enough for when I get my first straight.
I see from this post and some below that some of you use half hollow or wedges, even though there is a difference of opinion on how much that matters.
Is it harder to hone a half hollow or wedge, than a full hollow? I understand for honing a straight razor, you lay it down flat on the edge and the spine. Is that correct? So, with a wedge or half hollow, there is more surface material making contact with the hone, correct?
Sorry if all of these questions have been answered dozens of times before. But here is your chance to impress me with your prowess and knowledge!:)
Don in Stafford, VA - anyone else from around these parts?
Don,
you do realize that once you start using the straightrazor... one day you will wake up and say... Beard be gone! i like shaving to much to waste valuable fabe space with you.
and you will take your freshly stropped blade and rid yourself of the beard.
I went to Virginia Tech but now I live in Florida. It takes more time to hone a stiffer grind because of the amount of material that must be removed from the edge and the spine to make it hone up but don't worry about that because by the time you are proficient at honing you will be ready to tackle the stiffer grinds. Just don't practice on them.
Well, as you're an engineer you've probably figured out that given the same edge sharpness the main differences between hollow and a wedge are the flexibility of the edge and the mass, a.k.a. inertia :)
Wedges are generally much older (unless you're talking custom razors), so the actual steel may be different due to composition and tempering.
I certainly do not have much experience, but they feel very different and the only way to find out is to try both :) But I won't start with a wedge, as you getting feedback when you learn is important to develop your shaving technique. A good analogy for me is a sports car and a tank.
If I'm to limit myself to one razor only it will be stiffer 6/8 full hollow, but vintage wedges (esp the 200yr old) are certainly quite an experience.
That is how I deal with my tough beard. I do tend to like a 1/4 hollow to wedge razor more but that is probably more personal preference than anything. I am sure a full hollow can do just as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by jockeys
That may be so, but my outdoors personality makes me more of beard man than a fully shaved man, despite my 25 years of full shaving most of my life. We'll see if straight shaving makes me a fan of shaving. I've hated shaving most of my life and part of my hate for it is the waste of buying cheap (but expensive!) safetys and throwing them away each week. Right now I figure that if I even if I buy a complete straight razor set including a stone, I will spend less on that than I do with disposable saftetys each year!Quote:
Originally Posted by syslight
But I'm keeping an open mind and would like to be pleasantly surprised.
Don
Yes, I understand there is more inertia due to the increased amount of material making contact with the stone.Quote:
Originally Posted by gugi
I am hoping that my years of experience honing hunting and chef's knives will help me make the transition to honing a straight razor. The other day I took one of my Old Hickory butcher knives that I had just touched up with a few strokes on the steel and was able to pop some hair off my arm, although it would still be far too dull to use for shaving.
Oh, I'm sorry for confusing you if I did, I didn't mean inertia while honing, although it should be helpful with that too, but I haven't honed a wedge.
I meant the inertia while shaving and the extra mass helps with that.
I think what's important is what you like when shaving, and shouldn't worry about the honing too much. If you like wedges better, I'm sure you'll be happy to spend the extra time honing a wedge.
It's too bad many recent threads are gone, but you can probably look through the history of the forum. I seem to remember that the recommendation of people who could hone knives is to pretend you don't know how to hone when you try to hone a razor and just follow the directions - uniform and consistent strokes at 45deg angle and no pressure, except the weight of the razor. Keeping uniform pressure througout the stroke seems easier if you angle the blade (heel leading) and move it parallel to the hone, instead of having it perpendicularly and moving it at an angle, although the honemeisters do the later. Not sure what is the reason, but there is one, may be holding the razor by hand at the tang distributes the pressure more towards the heel, and honing diagonally can compensate it by leaving the heel less time on the hone. That's just a speculation though.
If I were you I'd buy a prehoned shave-ready razor, even if it's just to have a benchmark. There's a learning curve just to the shaving technique, I don't see a reason to add to it another learning curve from honing. Tackling one specific task at a time is the best way to go.
Of the skill set required for a Str8 razor, honing is the most difficult to learn.
I would suggest purchasing a honed and shave tested razor from the B/S/T forum first. Then start reading up on honing a Str8 and practicing with an Ebay junker. We have many "knife" people here who have learned that a Str8 is a different animal to sharpen. Not all of the knife skills will transfer.
You might want to contact an SRP member named "Sticky" by PM and ask him about the differences. Others will chime in here I am sure.
My beard has always been coarse, and the addition of many white/gray hairs has made it even tougher. One of my favorite razors is a full hollow. With that said I have developed a preference for wedges or at least a half hollow. Strong nod to the wedge. I do believe a sharp tool and good prep is more important than the grind.Quote:
Originally Posted by presbyreformed
Honing knives, especially if you do it freehand (no jig like Lansky's or DMT's), will give you a slight head start for feeling the hones working the cutting edge of a razor. The main habits to learn (for me) was the very light touch and keeping the spine on the hone. Think "different mind set".Quote:
Originally Posted by presbyreformed
Good Luck,