FAQs - Frequently Asked Questions (Newbie Corner)

This thread is a compilation of frequently asked questions/answers (aka FAQs) previously discussed in the Newbies Corner Forum.

It is a work in progress... additional questions will be added as they become available.*

The following index is organized by topical areas to assist you in finding the information you want. A particular question may appear multiple times in the index if it's content is applicable to more than one topical area. The links provided in the index are to the relevant post contained elsewhere in this thread (or, in some circumstances, another FAQ thread in a different forum).


INDEX:

Getting Started

Razors

1. Is the razor I got (or plan to get) really shave ready? [link]
2. Why do certain razors require more or less honing than others? [link]

Strops and Hones

Brushes and Mugs

Soaps, lather, and pre/post shave conditioners

Shaving

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*If you have a suggestion and/or wish to make a comment regarding general content in this FAQ please post it in this forum (ie, make a new post). If you have a comment/suggestion about a specific FAQ, please use the link at the bottom of that FAQ to link to the appropriate discussion thread.

Why do certain razors require more or less honing than others?

There are a number of reasons this why some razors require more honing than others:

1. The material that your razor is made from will determine how much hand honing is required and how long your edge will remain sharp. Stainless steel for instance takes more work to achieve the same sharpness as carbon steel, but will also stay sharper longer.
2. Also it has been mentioned that if a razor has more of a wedge shape (less hollowing) it will generally require more honing to achieve the same sharpness as a razor that has been partially or fully hollowed. This is due to the amount of metal that must be removed to achieve that perfect edge.
3. If a razor has a dull edge then it will take a LOT of work just to set a bevel and get the razor to a level of knife sharpness. Razors with chips in the edge and/or corroded steel could take a lot of work before you even reach the good steel that will take a quality edge

What other factors influence the edge of the blade?

The ability to take an edge and keep it is the result of the type of metal used to make the blade and the process used in manufacture. Simple steels with few alloying elements rely solely on the formation of iron carbides for their hardness. Steels with more alloying elements require a more complicated hardening process at different heats for different amounts of time.

So it can be down to the quality and care taken with the manufacture of my blade?

Yes. The temperatures at which the blade is tempered range from 430 - 600 degrees Fahrenheit. Tempering is a softening process which also makes the metal tougher. Hardened steel that is not tempered is very brittle and not tough at all. Tempering can be done in a toaster oven, a low temperature kiln, or in a forge - be it gas or coal. Tempering can also be done in a lead bath as the temperature of molten lead is 600 degrees Fahrenheit. The end result of all this is a blade that can take an edge and stay sharp due to a variety of factors.

[original/discussion thread is here]

Is the razor I got (or plan to get) really shave ready?

There seems to be a lot of confusion on what shave ready means to dealers, and what a truly shave ready razor means to an experienced shaver. Shave ready according to a dealer (generally concerning new razors) are razors that have been mechanically sharpened (generally on a waterstone type wheel) and then hand honed on a stone of some sort.

So if it is brand new and says "shave ready" why isn’t it REALLY shave ready??

The reason for this is most probably due to the cost of the man hours required to make a razor truly shave ready for our purposes. The cost of workmanship would drive the razor prices up and prevent a company from being as competitive in the marketplace with another company that does not spend this time and energy on finishing, and yet can still call their razors shave ready. These razors are sharp of course, and you could shave with them, so don’t think that you are getting ripped off or lied too.

The difference between a factory shave ready razor and a razor that has been honed by an expert is the experience level, time, techniques as well as equipment spent honing. The fact that their honing is done by hand with no machine grinding makes a VERY large difference in the final edge, and of course the closer detail to the edge that can be observed while hand honing.

The shave from an expertly honed razor will be a much more comfortable, close, and smooth shave than a factory sharpened TI, DOVO, or what have you. This means little or no pulling of your facial hair and less razor burn, as well as a marker for the time when you yourself start honing.


How to get a truly shave ready Razor?
If you buy a razor from Classic Shaving they offer honing services via Lynn Abrams which really makes it convenient to get a brand new shave ready razor that will make your learning curve easier. Straight Razor Place also has a Buy/Sell/Trade forum where it is possible to buy a used and/or refurbished razor that has also been hand honed and is truly shave ready. This will allow the new shaver to get a quality straight razor that is really ready to shave with. This option generally cost less money than a factory new razor which is not really shave ready according to our high standards.

So what’s the big deal?

The bottom line is, at least for your first razor whether new or used, make sure it is truly shave ready by having it hand honed by an expert, this can make or break your shaving experience and WILL show you what sharp truly means.[/B] We have seen many new users give up on straight razor shaving because they tried to start with a razor that wasnt really shave ready resulting in painful and inadequate shaves.

[original/discussion thread is here]