Where to find equipment....

Hi-

I'm (obviously) new here, and I am quite new to the straight razor shaving world. However, I am quite enthusiastic to start shaving with one. The problem being trying to find reasonably priced equipment. I purchased a lot of 3 razors, all in quite amazing condition for around $15 on eBay (one is a J.H. Frost 'mini' razor m.i. Germany, a Robeson Shur-Edge, and the last is kinda worn off, but says ...aurmann...Germany) Now, I consider $5 per razor to be a reasonable price for these kinds of things, and am kind of appalled to see razors going for $100+ on eBay.

Really, what I'm wondering about is resources for inexpensive strops and whetstones (I checked around this site and it's links, and have yet to find a good site for these. I hear mention of a members strops, perhaps handmade, but can't find a link or info on how to obtain one.) I also just purchased two more razors from eBay, averaging out to about $11 a razor. I know they're both pretty decent quality, name/manufacturer-wise, but am curious as to whether the Keen Kutter would be usable as a shaver with some work?

Thanks a lot for the info in advance!

The answer regarding strops is Tony Miller's TheWellShavedGentleman. I have not bought one of his strops but they are highly recommended by members of this forum and his prices seem very reasonable. He offers starter strops that are a cheaper way for beginners to get started.
The best deals on Norton hones, if that's what you want, can be had by doing a little searching around the web. You can find much better deals that way. You can start by checking out Woodcraft but look beyond that for the best deal.
Regarding the KeenKutter, it's going to be a challenge to hone it given how worn it is, but it's worth trying since you already bought it!

I have several of Tony's strops, and really like them.

For hones, your best bet is to look around, as prices can vary greatly...
I've gotten some good deals here

if you're looking for bargains on anything else, ask, most of the members here are happy to share when they find a good deal.

Go to Tony and get one there. He is the best. And for hones go to www.theperfectedge.com

Thanks Guys,

The info is greatly appreciated. Those look like some great strops, and The Perfect Edge is the cheapest I've seen the Norton 4000/8000.

And as for the Keen Kutter, I really bought the set for the Solingen. ~_^

I have done the same thing (buying first blade on ebay and trying to hone it myself for minimum $$$). I also bought a "barber hone" on ebay. then instead of using a norton I used wet/dry sand paper. In stead of a strop I use an old leather belt (Tony Miller gave me some advise on how to condition the belt). This is not the "best way" but it is the cheapest way, and the first razor I fixed up this way is my second best shaver (by best is a blade I bought shave ready from a member on this sight).

I used this system to avoid a large capitol outlay at one time. Since then I have picked up a water stone (still not the Norton). I still use the belt and the barber hone. If you decide to use sand paper make sure it is the wet/dry sand paper ( I use a little mineral oil with the sand paper to help build a slurry). Also make sure you have an absolutely flat surface (I use a marble tile). Then remember that grit size is different on sandpaper then water stones. If you double the number on the paper it is approximately the same as the way Norton rates their stones ( 2000 grit sand paper is = 4k stone).

i am quite new as well to straight razor shaves as well. check appleton barber supply. i think they only have one hone. but check out the other stuff they have.

i still need to shop for a hone too. i have been looking.

OK stay away from the appleton barber supply hone on there. It is an arkansas stone and not good for razors. The shop does not have very good stuff EXCEPT they have a very nice price on the cmon cadillac razors.

i understand that money is a situation for all people and keeping things inexpensive is what we try to do.

but i think it needs to be put into perspective. 1st look at your cost for normal razors. its like 10$ for a pack of 5. so take that out a few months or a year and you got yourself some cash to use as a replacement.

next buying cheap usually leads to buying or replacing sooner or more often than should be the case. buying an arkansas hone...it may be cheap but its not gonna do what you need it to do. you'll end up buying another one and then you have lost money in the original hone(sunk cost). same with buying very beat up razors on ebay. have some patience and put some snipe bids in and pay the extra 5-10$ to get something good. not honed down, chipped, beaten up. pay for a wapi if you'd prefer.

i think doing what a poster above mentioned is a good way to go about it. save up for a month..then buy 1 item of good quality. strop one month, pasted paddle/hone the next month. perhaps a good brush 2months after that. you'll end up having a set of great utensils to use enjoyably.

put things in the long term perspective when thinking about switching to straights. you are doing this for the long term, years out. and that is how you can rationalize off-setting the upfront costs much more easilly.

we are hear saying straights are enjoyable, the best shave around, an experience uncomparable to anything else. well thats all good and true, but the people aren't claiming those statements using beat up chipped blades off ebay, honed on 400grit sandpaper and using a toothbrush instead of a badger haired brush. money/effort put into this, up to a point, is what you will get out of this adventure. im not saying you need a maestro livi razor and the 200 edwin jagger brush. but i am saying that you can't spend 20$ total and expect the best shave in the world.

~J

J-

Thanks for the info. The stone seems to be the most expensive part of the equipment. I already have the brush, mug, and soaps(I have been using these since I learned to shave with a twin). Tony's starter strops are actually just about what I'd be looking to pay for a strop at this point(one of which I actually just bought off of his site, can't wait to get it). I'm really a bit more curious, now, as to the usability of the razors I have. I'll get some pictures up of the ones I have, including a Dubl Duck Wonderedge I found in an antique shop for $13.

Here are the razors I have so far, just some quick pics.

These are the three originally bought. Shur-edge, Frost, and un-named german, top to bottom.

http://www.thel33tg33k.com/sigs/shurblade.JPG
Shur Edge


http://www.thel33tg33k.com/sigs/frost.JPG
http://www.thel33tg33k.com/sigs/frostblade.JPG
Frost

http://www.thel33tg33k.com/sigs/gerblade.JPG
german

http://www.thel33tg33k.com/sigs/dublduck.JPG
http://www.thel33tg33k.com/sigs/dublblade.JPG
Dubl Duck. This one has a broken scale(you can kinda see it in the pic), quite a wobble, and a few nicks and chips in the blade.

Any advice on how to restore them would be greatly appreciated. And whether or not the Dubl Duck is even savable. Is there any way to repair existing scales? Or is the only option to create an entirely new set? The Shur-Edge is in the best condition, and seems like it would be the best for actual shaving, maybe? The Frost blade is only about 1.5-2" long.

thanks again, this is definitely a great site.

Hmm the sure edge looks good as does the random german one but the frost and wonderedge look pretty used up. I would send the sure edge to a honemiester to be honed and try learning on the random german. I would also keep the WE for collector purposes but I am not sure I would try to use that.

For how to restore read up and search the resto forum or get bill ellis's cd

Those look like really nice razors. As Chris said, the Wonderedge does look kinda bad, but definitely not past restoration.

Agreed on using the German. Looks VERY nice!

i got my razor and strop from appleton. i didn't trust the hone. so i am still looking for one of those.

i bet that german one there will shine up and give you great shaves. the top picture also looks fine (shuredge) but the pics are kinda bad angle to tell completely. clean them up and enjoy!

ya the DD does look in pretty bad shape. also the frost looks like it has a TON of hone wear, i don't know if its just the angle of the picture or not. but it looks kinda beat from the pic.

at least ya got 2 that could be cleaned up and used regularly!

~J

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jscott

also the frost looks like it has a TON of hone wear, i don't know if its just the angle of the picture or not. but it looks kinda beat from the pic.

~J

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I was thinking the same thing, J

Hey Guys,

Thanks for all the input. I'm working on cleaning up the German, and I have to wait for my next paycheck to pick up a hone, so I have to wait to try that out (or send it out to a honemeister). Is hand sanding the only way to get a mirror finish? I took off the rust with some mineral oil and steel wool.

I posted a thread in the restoration forum for the Duck, 'cause I'd really like to be able to make that, if not usable, at least shiny and new(er) looking.

And yes, the picture of the Frost is accurate to real life. What exactly is the problem with hone wear? And can it be repaired?

i am really against using steel wool. perhaps i've only held overly tough steel wool that was too gritty or something. but i've recieved ebay purchases which the seller used steel wool to make it look more silvery and shiney for his pictures. YES it does make it more silvery and shiney..however the scratch pattern it leaves in the metal makes it so very very hard to remove them enough to turn the blade into a mirror finish ever again.

maybe its just my perception.

~J

I used a really nice, fine steel wool, and it took off the rust without scratching the blade at all.

EDIT: The blade does still have some pitting on it, though it's all away from the edge.

OK so on the frost... see how it is narrower at the tip than the rest of the blade.... Notice how the flat spot along the spine gets wider toward the tip. This means that someone honed it poorly for many many years and has worn the blade uneven. This makes the blade only fixable if you hone it till the blade is even and doing that would 1. take a ton of work and 2. put massive wear on the blade as a whole. This makes the blade a poor candidate for restoration. I would suggest you put it asside to experiment on should you ever want to experiment on any aspect of restoration.