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Almost all of my razors have celluloid handles and I'm leery of putting petroleum-based oils in their pivot joints after they get wet while shaving.
I tried spray silicone, but the solvent-carrier frosted the surface of the ol' Robeson I tested it on.
I'm back to using RemOil, but as I've always found the admonition against using oils on plastic a good one, I'm not happy with it.
Anybody know of a good rust preventative designed for use with plastics.
Try some Dovo Sterol, from Classic Shaving. Its a light oil that doesn't gum up, and disinfects too. I use it, and haven't had any problems on celluloid scales.
+1 on dovo sterol. I use it for all my straights. Have never had a problem.
Yep, that's what I use. Sterol's great and doesn't affect the celluloid.
I use Camelia oil and have never had any interaction with the celluloid.
<<<< The barbarian of the bunch... :D
I spray a little WD-40 on a piece of TP and wipe off the blade with that...
I haven't had any rust since I started doing it over a year ago nor have I had a reaction to the various scale materials....
You of course need to wipe and rinse the blade before using it so that you don't get any skin irratation but I haven't had a problem there either....
Sewing machine oil is formulated to lubricate and protect metal, plastic, and other kinds of materials and does not break down or harden over time.
I have had it on all my razors for 8 months and there is no rust and no damage to celluoid, horn, bone or Ivory handles. Older sewing machines do have some celluoid parts, and this oil is formulated to be compatible.
$9.95 for 32 ounces at Sailrite. The link below should take you right to the page where you can order.
32 ounces is almost a lifetime suppy.
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Hmmmmmm I like that idea Toolarts, makes sense... Is there a possible irritation factor with it like with the WD-40????
When I use a razor, I always wipe it down and strop it before shaving. By the time I finish that, there isn't much oil left on the razor. I've never gotten any irritation that I know of from this oil. I think it is pretty neutral.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
WD 40 is a water displacing chemical. Great for electronics, etc., but as a lubricant it is kind of temporary. It also has some fairly nasty solvents.
I use it for killing yellow jacket and hornet nests. A good squirt of WD-40 and the nest is a goner, and the bees can't even fly at you--but they do shake their fists and cuss at you as they are dying!
Paul
Sewing oil seems like a good idea!
As I'm a Super Cheapskate(tm), I should have have asked: What's a good CHEAP, celluloid friendly, rust preventative?
You can probably find sewing oil at Wal-Mart and avoid mail order; as I hate paying 6 or 7 bucks shipping for a $4.99 item
What about baby oil? I'm looking at a bottle now and the 2 ingredients are mineral oil and fragrance. You can get a big bottle for under $5, and you don't have to worry about rinsing it off before you use it.Quote:
Originally Posted by shuredgefan
Lots of people use mineral oil (generic baby oil at the WalMart pharmacy) I've used it before.
I've also used WD 40 and those "TufCloths" which work quite well.
Best thing I do, however, is simply getting the razor really really dry when I'm done shaving-seems to work pretty well.
John P.
Baby oil is quite a bit more expensive than sewing machine oil, and is not made to protect metal.
20 fl oz of Johnson's baby oil on Amazon is over $15.00.
32 fl oz of Sew-Rite sewing machine oil is $9.95.
Some mineral oils are as low as i $4.00 for 16 oz, so a little cheaper than sewing machine oil, but neither mineral oil or baby oil are formulated for protecting metal, as sewing machine oil is.
This is what I use: dry towel.
The trouble with oils made for use on the human skin is that they are often low pH (=acid). I am not sure what acid does to celluloid but I do know acid is big trouble on carbon steel. That's why we have acid free vaseline in this country as a lubricant for bicycles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by toolarts
I'm with you on that one. If the razor is dry and kept in a dry environment, no problem with rust.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kees
Oil is just insurance.
How do you get the pivot area dry?Quote:
Originally Posted by Kees
1st I try to keep it dry, 2nd if it has got wet I wrap the pivot area in a towel and open and close the razor a 5-10 times while keeping it wrapped in the towel. Every time you do that some of the water will become exposed to the towel if you like. Eventually it is dry enough. I find that a minimal amount of water evaporates before causing damage. I never put the razor back in its box until after 24 hours after use. Nothing worse than water trapped in the box.Quote:
Originally Posted by shuredgefan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kees
I've heard of folks using hair driers to get the pivot dry, could using a hair drier damage the blade (cause it to warp or something)? This seems like a really easy to get the pivot dry.
A hair dryer will not get hot enough to warp a blade.Quote:
Originally Posted by foundlingofdollar
Thanks, it just seemed to obvious and simple that I figured there had to be some reason that I haven't heard much about it on the forums. I figured a hair drier wouldn't be a problem for any tempered metal, but I was just wondering what the catch was.Quote:
Originally Posted by psdarby
But do you risk overheating the celluloid?Quote:
Originally Posted by psdarby
NO! NO! NO! DON'T go near a celluloid handle with a hair dryer.
Celluloid can warp permanently with the kind of heat a hair dryer puts out.
And there is no need. This is a perfect example of overkill.
A razor will NOT rust at the pivot if you just take ordinary precautions:
1. Rinse the razor in hot tap water for 5 seconds, then dry it lightly. Pass a tissue between the scales if you got the whole razor wet. The residual heat in the metal will evaporate any water, even around the pivot pin.
2. Lay the razor down in a dry area, and rinse out your brush, cup, and apply your aftershave.
3. By now your razor is dry. A dab of oil on it won't hurt. Then put it away.
Camellia Oil
And now, a few emoticons to round out this post...
:D:hmmm:;)
Actully, when I was able to work , I ran a computerized paper shear. I was the 2nd operator as the previous shear operator had a hissy and quit. To make a long story short, the manufacturer of the shear recommended using baby oil or mineral oil on the table (all carbon steel). I ran that machine for 2 or 3 years before I was laid off, only oiling the table down on weekends. We didn't have a bit of rust on it, however, after I was called back to work (9 years later) the table was completely rusty red color. I asked the Production Manager about it and was told that they had quit oiling it down, didn't think it was neccesary. That's why I use baby oil on my razors, just a thin coat, plus I think of my razors as my kids anyway, so they may as well smell like it.:eek:;)Quote:
Originally Posted by toolarts