Starter setup

So, I've been talking about wanting a straight razor so much lately that my wife went out and got me a set for my birthday. It's honestly the most thoughtful gift I have ever received, but she also didn't know how to research the items other than talking to salesmen in the mall. I know there are a few things that I need to upgrade, I would appreciate it if you guys could help me decide what to start with.

First off, I think the blade is probably fine. It just says "SOLINGER - Made in Germany" on the blade, but other than that no markings. Plain generic black handle. I could tell when I got it that it wasn't quite 'shave ready', and that was before I found this wonderful site.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/DangerP/SME3BBp...8/IMG_0193.jpg

Strop - This one seems suspect to me. No brand or other markings, just a sticker that says 'made in Pakistan'. I'm fairly certain this needs to be upgraded first. the leather side is hard with a polished look, not supple like the dovo ones I've seen in stores lately.

Brush - synthetic 'badger hair' style brush. Not the best, but it gets the job done. My guess is it's just fine for now. The shaving cream I am using is made by truefitt & hill.

Stone - colonel conk. Don't know much about it, even the grit. I have tried using it, but I have no idea how long it should take and I don't have enough experience to be able to tell when it is sharp enough. Here's a link to another store that carries it: linky

Final question. I have decided that I am unable to tell what 'shave ready' is. I'm willing to make the small investment to have it sharpened for me, so I can use that as a benchmark. I just need to know how to find a nearby honemeister that is available. I am in California if that matters.

First I'd like to start by welcoming you to SRP! If you have a desire to learn how to use a straight there is no better place to gain knowledge then here IMO.

That looks like an excellent razor to begin with. My first recommendation would be to get that razor honed by a professional. There are several members here that would hone it for you, just ask around. By getting your razor in shave-ready condition, you will get an understanding of what "sharp" feels like. As for the brush, it will do fine for now and you can upgrade to a badger brush in the future. As for the strop, I really don't know if it will be suitable, as Pakistani products have a reputation for being of poor quality. As for the hone, I will leave that question open for others because I don't know much about that product. I use a Norton 4K/8K to hone my razors, and to strop my razors I use a DOVO strop.

The single most important item that I recommend you buying is Lynn's DVD, as it will show you everything you need to know about learning to use a straight. If you are considering buying a new strop or hone, check out the classifieds section on here because you can find quality products at a fair price.

Welcome to SRP,

If you look at the classifieds there are ads for honing services. Alternatively few vendors (straightrazordesigns, thewellshavedgentleman, vintageblades, classicshaving) offer these as well (and it looks like it's still members who do the honing for them). David (heavydutysg) is in California, but he seems to be busy lately, so I don't know if he'll be able to hone your razor, but you can always check. Otherwise the mail in US is fairly quick.

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Originally Posted by dangerp

Stone - colonel conk. Don't know much about it, even the grit. I have tried using it, but I have no idea how long it should take and I don't have enough experience to be able to tell when it is sharp enough. Here's a link to another store that carries it: linky

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There is a thread in the hones section about that stone. It is not likely to be enough, you will probably want at least a barbers hone like a swatty to finish with it.

I have heard (read) others point out that the Solingen name for new razors is a bit overused, especially by Pakistani manufacturers that just assemble the razor in Germany out of Pakistani parts. If this the case with your razor, it's possible that honing it won't help for very long. When you eventually replace the strop and the hone, you might want to get another razor as well.

Have you used any of the stuff yet? Would it be possible to get your wife's money back? If not, just thank her profusely and secretly get a stash of replacements!

Thanks for all the help guys! So here's my newly decided plan of action:

1. Send out the blade to get honed (probably to straight razor designs)
2. Get a decent strop (seriously, this one looks horrible to even me)
3. Get a norton before it's time to hone again
4. Continue to spend money on this hobby for the next several months even though the original intent was to save cash (from cartridges)
5. Use the colonel for other misc (non-razor) sharpening needs.

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Originally Posted by Utopian

I have heard (read) others point out that the Solingen name for new razors is a bit overused, especially by Pakistani manufacturers that just assemble the razor in Germany out of Pakistani parts. If this the case with your razor, it's possible that honing it won't help for very long. When you eventually replace the strop and the hone, you might want to get another razor as well.

Have you used any of the stuff yet? Would it be possible to get your wife's money back? If not, just thank her profusely and secretly get a stash of replacements!

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I was a little afraid of that. Do you think the person who hones my razor might be able to tell?

And no, no option for returning, but I can always keep it as a practice blade...

I have never had the privilege of honing a Pakistani razor. I've always been tempted to buy one, like a Zeepk, just to see what they are like, but I just can't bring myself to financially support their efforts. I'm certainly no expert, but I believe that in general, you can get some sense of the quality of the steel of the razor during the honing. If the steel is soft, it will hone up quickly but won't hold the edge for long. I would assume that if you send it to one of the people on this forum who regular offer honing services, they will be able to competently advise you about your razor.

Also, keep in mind that your razor might be just fine. I suggested possibility that it is Pakistani (aka crap) but I don't know that for a fact. As you said, even if the razor is not great, you can always use it for practice.

If the razor turns out to be a re-shaped butter knife, just be sure to tell your wonderful wife that you learned on this forum about the need to have a full rotation of razors in order to keep them in optimal condition. That will justify your need for a few additional razors. Then you can introduce her to the lesser know concepts of strop and hone rotations!

Stropping with Pakistani equipment has given lots of folks fits on this site over the years. You're far better off IMHO using vintage razors to get you going. I make my own strops out of cowhide and they do a good job. I'd also suggest you get a good stone. A belgian bout (odd shaped but pure coticule) is an inexpensive way to start and I love them. I keep one in my medicine cabinet for quick, weekly laps to keep my edge sharp.

Shave ready. That means it's ready for your face and has been honed and stropped correctly. Factory edges are not shave ready. They're where you start!

Keep at it. You're engaged in a rewarding hobby. My shaves last a day and a half and my skin has never been smoother. Takes some time to get there but worth the investment.

I will agree with the suggestion of getting a second razor while this one is off being honed. (I fear that if it is new with no other markings it may not be worth honing as I would suspect it may not have been manufactured in Solingen.) A quick look in the classifieds will usually turn up a shave ready razor for around $30 - 40 with plain black scales. The full rotation of razors that Utopian speaks of are commonly known as 7 day sets (one razor for each day of the week). At least 7 day sets are a good starting point before carrying on the the one and six month shaving sets.:w

It sounds like good shaving cream and the brush will, as you say, be good until you have proven to yourself that you will stick to shaving with a straight. Then next year (if another group buy comes around) you can get the 2009 SRP shaving brush.

You will find lots of good reading here and helpful advice. You will also find that if you are willing to sign a blank cheque to acquire razors, strops, hones, creams, lotions, brushes and mugs most of us are more than willing to help you build your collection (many of us have been cut off from spending our own money and have to live through others acquisitions.);)

It is good that you found this place before writing off straight shaving due to a poorly sharpened razor. As Howard said- keep at it- it really can be a rewarding hobby.

So I finally sent my razor off to Straight Razor Design to be honed. I just got it back yesterday. I had included a note asking them to give me some indication as to the quality of the razor, but alas, nothing but the razor.

I gave it a try last night. I wanted to have the best possible first experience, so I spent some extra time on the prep. I let the brush soak in hot water, while I splashed hot water on my face until it was red. I lathered up some nice thick lather and put it on my face to let it soak in and (hopefully) soften the whiskers a bit. Keep in mind that I have very coarse whiskers. I then rinsed it off with some more hot water before applying the lather to the first cheek.

The cheek was relatively rewarding, with very little pull, although it was a bit louder than I expected (is this normal?). I was able to progress over the jawbone with relative ease (given that I was scared stupid that I would cut myself). However, I came to a bit of an issue when it came to the neck.

For some reason, even though the majority of my neck whiskers run in the same direction as my cheek, I experienced a lot more resistance and a lot of irritation. I was dumbfounded when I came to the adams apple. I could figure out how to do the actual adams apple, but the concave portions on the either side don't make things easy, especially given the fact that the whiskers there go in about 5 directions. I stumbled through with a very poor shave in that area, and continued back up to the opposite cheek before finishing above the lip (also very difficult, due to the presence of the nose). I have a goatee covering my chin so I was able to skip that.

Results: I am relatively pleased with the shave on the cheeks, although it is only just as close as a week old cartridge razor can get it. I think that with some practice I might find the secret to a closer shave. I cut myself only twice (not counting raised bumps that had it coming anyways), and that was because I accidentally introduced a sawing motion rather than perpendicular. The neck, however, remained very sore and not very close. I think that with some acrobatics, I may be able to get those valleys on either side of the adam's apple, but overall I think there may be something flawed with my neck strategy. It felt nothing like shaving the cheeks, and I feel I must be doing something wrong.

Back to the quality of the equipment, here's my "beginners" rating. 1 means that no beginner should consider buying one, and 10 meaning that it makes life so much easier for a beginner to start shaving.

Razor (solingen): OK, I don't actually have a rating on this one yet. It works, so maybe a 6?
Strop (unkown pakistani): 0 - It's brittle, bumpy, and seems like it would do more harm than good. First item to be replaced
Shaving cream (tub of truefit & hill): 9 - Excellent cream, no matter what style of shaving. However, I am docking a point as I feel that for a beginner, they may be able to find something cheaper
Shaving mug (oversized coffee mug from bed, bath, and beyond): 10 - awesome, great value, easy to use, and looks great in my bathroom
Brush (synthetic hair): 10 - There are (obviously) better brushes out there, but I think that synthetic is great for beginners due to cost vs quality
Stone (colonel conk): 4 - It may sharpen, but it isn't easy or intuitive, I think it would frustrate any beginner long before they were able to get to their first shave. Second item to be replaced

i had basically the same first shave that you did thoughi did buy my razor from Tony Miller so it is a Dovo (not to say it is better or worse) and i found that it was my angle that needed adjusting the most. i kept trying different soaps and hotter water, to no avail. those things are very important but my problem was that it didn't feel like it was doing anything at angles lower then 30 degrees, when infact it seems there is a sweet spot that drags less and cuts better. for me it is right between the "scraping" angle and the "not cutting". i know it seems like commun sense but it made a world of difference for me to reduce the angle and release my death grip on the razor. hope that helps.

as for the Col Conk stone all the sites i can find say it is a 1200 grit stone which is great for pocket knives but much to coarse to finish or touch up a razor. that is just what i have found though.

chee16, thanks for the advice! You are probably correct, and thinking back, it is possible that while I was trying to adjust for the various curves of the neck, I wasn't maintaining the blade angle at the same angle as when I was on the cheeks. I may have been "scraping" more than cutting, which would explain the soreness.

It's really hard to find any kind of useful information on the colonel conk. I appreciate the info!

The on big recommendation early on in this thread is still the best by far. Get Lynn's CD. It's a great investment! In it he recommends starting with the area between the sideburns and jawline, and in one direction only. Get used to the feeling of the razor in your hand, and against your face. When you are comfortable with that start some XG, then maybe ATG. Do this slowly and get comfortable. It won't take long, but it is a skill that must be learned. You will gradually learn your own techniques. But Lynn's CD is a great place to start.The same will be true for honing. You can build your tools of the trade up over time. Hey, I've been at it for nealry 2 months and I have yet to tackle the chin and lip areas. I am in no hurry. Whan I am ready to do those, I will do them. In the meantime, I do the areas I am comfortable using the straight, and finish using my Merkur twin.

Quick update:

I've taken some advice that I've seen and I've been modifying my technique and angle to err on the side of too flat rather than too aggressive. I think my angle was way too aggressive the first time.

For the trouble spots on either side of the adam's apple, the technique that I finally found to work was ATG, pointing slightly inward, working mostly with the toe half of the blade. Works great and is probably the least irritation I have gotten with that area of my neck with any blade! Watching a lot of videos helped.

I have also greatly improved my lather routine. I purchased shaving soap from a local vendor on a whim (I was at a local fair). I was having a hard time getting satisfactory lather out of that, but I found that if I loaded up the brush with soap first, then worked in a mug that had a minute amount of aforementioned shave cream, that I got the most amazing lather I have ever worked with! The technique is similar to the uber lather on the wiki, except that I do not add glycerin (the soap says that it contains natural glycerin, not sure if I should trust that though...). Also, to keep the lather warm, I filled the sink with hot water (my tap is super hot), and placed the mug in the water as I did the prep and shave, in addition to the preheating of the brush and mug.

The only issue I am having is I consistently cut (not nick, but cut) myself in the same place on the cheek, about a half inch from the side of my lip on my right side, when I am coming in to do the whiskers above my lip. I have grown very conscious of this, and try to be extra careful in that area, but I still cut myself. I currently have three separate inch long cuts, all going the same direction, and all sitting right next to each other! I'm sure I'll figure out what I'm doing to cause this, and it is not enough to make me give up, but I'm sure I look like a fool when I walk into the office in the morning with yet another fresh cut...

Other than that, my technique is definitely improving, thanks for all of the advice! I feel that my skin is adjusting to the str8, and is feeling healthier than back when I used cartridge razors and aerosol shaving cream. My absolutely wonderful wife is confused by why I am so enamored by this stuff, I guess she never thought that something as mundane as shaving could be considered a hobby :)

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Originally Posted by dangerp

The only issue I am having is I consistently cut (not nick, but cut) myself in the same place on the cheek, about a half inch from the side of my lip on my right side, when I am coming in to do the whiskers above my lip. I have grown very conscious of this, and try to be extra careful in that area, but I still cut myself. I currently have three separate inch long cuts, all going the same direction, and all sitting right next to each other! I'm sure I'll figure out what I'm doing to cause this, and it is not enough to make me give up, but I'm sure I look like a fool when I walk into the office in the morning with yet another fresh cut...

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Oh, so you're at the Mach-3 level, you know that it's all about the Fusion now, so I think two more cuts next to the aforementioned three are to follow shortly...

Once I tried to go for a too close of a shave with somewhat duller blade and had a small cut/nick at the corner of my moustache. After that I kept cutting myself in the same place again and again, I guess the skin wasn't smooth enough on that area. I think after 3 weeks I just resorted to a single wtg pass on that spot for several weeks after which I didn't have the problem anymore.

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Originally Posted by dangerp

Thanks for all the help guys! So here's my newly decided plan of action:

1. Send out the blade to get honed (probably to straight razor designs)
2. Get a decent strop (seriously, this one looks horrible to even me)
3. Get a norton before it's time to hone again
4. Continue to spend money on this hobby for the next several months even though the original intent was to save cash (from cartridges)
5. Use the colonel for other misc (non-razor) sharpening needs.

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Yup, that sounds about right to me. :)

first, welcome to SRP!!!
In case someone has not told you, Tony at The Well Shaved Gentleman, Heirloom Razor Strop Company, Straight Razor Shaving Supplier has the best strops going. Even the apprentice strop is very nice and even if you decide to go with a better strop, I would still suggest getting the apprentice to practice on. This will prevent you from putting some major nicks in your really nice strop.

For a hone, I would recommend getting a polishing hone to start you addiction with and retaining the services of a honemeister when you really need to fix your edge up. One of my favorite polishing hones is a yellow coticule. Howard at The Perfect Edge has good prices on some nice hones.

Enjoy the journey!

:mad: gah! I've been patiently waiting and researching, and today I got approval from the missus to get myself a new strop. I went to go get Tony Miller's apprentice strop, which seems like an awesome strop for the price. But according to his website, he's all sold out.:gaah:

Now I have to go see if I can find something else that works good at a good price point. We are on a pretty tight budget right now. Anyone have any ideas?

Tony should have more sometime soon. Or may be he's turned it off for the weekend - check again next week.