Sooo Green!

Hi folks,

well i'm very new at this and i need the advice of pro's.

I was in the US recently and took the advantage of cheap prices to get a new Dovo black star (from Vintage Blades) and pick up some antique pieces from the flea markets in the North Georgia area.

I have a full hollow Crown and Sword, a lovely bone handle Reigel and Co, 6/8 with barber notch, A De-Fi, an OLD Wade and Butcher that needs a serious re grind and some others.

Anyway, the Dovo came with a bend in the blade which Jim at Vintage Blades quickly replaced in the best example of customer service I have ever seen, he even shipped it airfreight back to me at his own cost to ensure it reached me before I flew back to the UK a few days later.

Thanks Jim, you are a true gent.

The razor came with a Lynn Abrams hone which seems to be the best thing this planet has to offer a razor, except it didn't work for me. Right now nothing does. I am honing on a Norton 4000/8000 and finishing on a linen/leather, a can get the hair test on plucked chest hairs held between my fingers ( I have short hair on my head and no woman around) on about half the razor but never all of it.

I'm honing with lather, using a good lather cream from a tube or good soapy lather but even with Lynns hone teh razor is really pulling and hurting after tehefirst cheek and half the neck is done.

I have found the best to be give a quick strop (20-40 times) after the 8000 honing and then I can get half a shave before I need to restrop linen and leather, but I can only achieve this on the old Crown and Sword, and that is so old it has a chip out the tip and the handle is made of two thick, stiff peices of leather. It was meant to be a practice peice but is the only one I can get a good edge, the Dovo does not want to play, it will remove thumb skin with a mere look but not hair.

[SIZE=2]i am at a loss over Lynn's hone not being enough, from the first it just bit into my beard and held painfully, i did give it a gentle strop and i am sure my strop technique is good enough not to kill his edge since it improves the edge every other time I do it.

I place no blame on Lynn since he is THE man for the job, I guess some things just can't be explained.

is there anyone in the UK I can see about this?
Ideally someone who can re-grind and old razor to full hollow and to make sure that teh whole edge is in touch with the hone, but also to give a ready edge to my good razors since i still haven't experienced a shave with a proper edge so don't know what the benchmark is.

Thanks guy, I'm sure you've heard this a nudred times before, trying to read through the past posts has made me dizzy, it seems every combination of every technique has been advised and half the terms I don't understand, limited internet time doesn't right now either.

Steve at The Invisible Edge provides great service. Don't know about regrinds though.

Thanks OS,

Well I've only been using straights a month, but using doesn't exactly describe it. The bevel on the Dovo will be perfect since Lynn did it straight from the factory before I bought it through Vintage Blades. The bevel on the Crown and Sword seems to be good too. I'm stretching as much as I can in places but around the chin it gets tricky.

I got frustrated in my last shave an hour ago and stropped the hell out of them both after a careful glide across the 8000, I stropped angrily with the Dovo on the linen side using pressure and speed (usually i am gentle as a kitten) for 50 goes then was a little calmer on the leather side for another 50.

Funnily enough that worked, it was the best edge I have had yet, although that chin hair always fights back, i did get it all smooth once but it took me about 10 goes and took a week for the rash to subside.

I am still staying with guests right now so can't get the whole kit out in the bathroom, so getting a good lather isn't something I've really had time to perfect.

I can get it good enough for the cheeks but it won't glide through the rougher hair and I have to re strop between teh 1st and second shave every time, is that normal?

I guess I should just go away and practice for another month, then come back with some more sensible questions.

After a lot of reading i reckon my problem is the finishing, more stropping on linen seems to get better results.

Are the pasted strop (CrOx) and the high grit hones 112k/coticule interchangeable?

Surely I don't need both stages.

Let me guess, it all depends on teh individual and the razor right?

If you have the right technique on the hones, you might just need to flatten your hones. Even brand new ones sometimes need flattening. This should translate to less stropping. For me, it has taken a little while for my face to get used to being shaved with a de/se and to figure out what is best for my skin.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gingahippy

After a lot of reading i reckon my problem is the finishing, more stropping on linen seems to get better results.

Are the pasted strop (CrOx) and the high grit hones 112k/coticule interchangeable?

Surely I don't need both stages.

Let me guess, it all depends on teh individual and the razor right?

---

I have only been doing this for about two months now, but i have been through all the problems you describe.
I have three razors, and all of them were shave ready. At least that's what they stated, yet none of them actually was..
That gave me quite a few terrible shaves.

Now I have 5 different hones (from 1,5k to 12k), and i use diamond paste on the strop.
If I were to choose between a 12K stone, and a diamond paste I would go with the paste in a heartbeat. Much easier to use, and for me it gives a great shaving edge. Just be careful not to use to much at once, or it will only dull your blade. I strop plenty, nothing less than a hundred strokes after honing.

To put things into perspective, I couldn't get my razors to pass the hair test when I first started.
Now, I'm considering shaving with my hunting knife. It passes the hair test with ease:)

If you are ever back this way, shoot me a PM and maybe we can meet up. I am in Atlanta and perfectly willing to help with anything you might have questions on. Until then, there is some good advice in this thread already!

-Rob

I hone - send me a PM if you still need help. I live in Essex, UK.
Regards,
Neil

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gingahippy

Hi folks,

well i'm very new at this and i need the advice of pro's.

I was in the US recently and took the advantage of cheap prices to get a new Dovo black star (from Vintage Blades) and pick up some antique pieces from the flea markets in the North Georgia area.

I have a full hollow Crown and Sword, a lovely bone handle Reigel and Co, 6/8 with barber notch, A De-Fi, an OLD Wade and Butcher that needs a serious re grind and some others.

Anyway, the Dovo came with a bend in the blade which Jim at Vintage Blades quickly replaced in the best example of customer service I have ever seen, he even shipped it airfreight back to me at his own cost to ensure it reached me before I flew back to the UK a few days later.

Thanks Jim, you are a true gent.

The razor came with a Lynn Abrams hone which seems to be the best thing this planet has to offer a razor, except it didn't work for me. Right now nothing does. I am honing on a Norton 4000/8000 and finishing on a linen/leather, a can get the hair test on plucked chest hairs held between my fingers ( I have short hair on my head and no woman around) on about half the razor but never all of it.

I'm honing with lather, using a good lather cream from a tube or good soapy lather but even with Lynns hone teh razor is really pulling and hurting after tehefirst cheek and half the neck is done.

I have found the best to be give a quick strop (20-40 times) after the 8000 honing and then I can get half a shave before I need to restrop linen and leather, but I can only achieve this on the old Crown and Sword, and that is so old it has a chip out the tip and the handle is made of two thick, stiff peices of leather. It was meant to be a practice peice but is the only one I can get a good edge, the Dovo does not want to play, it will remove thumb skin with a mere look but not hair.

[SIZE=2]i am at a loss over Lynn's hone not being enough, from the first it just bit into my beard and held painfully, i did give it a gentle strop and i am sure my strop technique is good enough not to kill his edge since it improves the edge every other time I do it.

I place no blame on Lynn since he is THE man for the job, I guess some things just can't be explained.

is there anyone in the UK I can see about this?
Ideally someone who can re-grind and old razor to full hollow and to make sure that teh whole edge is in touch with the hone, but also to give a ready edge to my good razors since i still haven't experienced a shave with a proper edge so don't know what the benchmark is.

Thanks guy, I'm sure you've heard this a nudred times before, trying to read through the past posts has made me dizzy, it seems every combination of every technique has been advised and half the terms I don't understand, limited internet time doesn't right now either.

---

Being a straight razor user for 31 years I suspect some of your difficulty does indeed come from the polishing portion as well as the stropping portion. My advice to you is take a breath and remember it is only a shave we are talking about. honing can be frustrating, but patience does go a long way. Just walk away and come back later when things seems to be progressing less than satisfactorily. My second suggestion, go very lightly on the 8000 grit stone for perhaps 10 complete passes on one of your shave ready razors. Next, you may need to consider a polishing stone. A Chinese 12K is a very affordable and excellent stone to finish on or a barber's hone (Swaty). CrOx is another choice but in my opinion going from an 8000 to CrOx will not be a natural progression and may add to your frustration. A diamond paste is easy for a beginner but it does cut aggressively and can truly take a toll on a razor. If I were you, I would get at least a 10K polishing stone and then I would suggest you strop on leather exclusively. In my entire life I have never utilized a linen strop. personally I find it unneceassary. In all likelyhood it may take fifty or seventy passes on leather after the polishing stage to acheive the keen edge you desire. I hope this will help you in your endeavors. In closing let me give you an example of what I utilize for one of my razors that has become dull and pulls my beard. I will begin on a DMT8EE for approx 5 complete passes. Next I proceed to either a Swaty stone or Chinese 12K for 5-7 seven more complete passes with the stone wet. If time permits I may elect 4 or 5 more passes on the stone dry. I then strop on leather for at least 50 passes. My razor will then slice through any beard without effort. The edge will be very durable and last perhaps several months. I still strop after every shave and before every shave...maybe 20-30 passes on leather. In between honing, I only utilize a swaty barbers hone or a chinese 12K ONLY, followed by many passes on a leather strop to keep my blade refreshed. I hope you have begun to see a very important pattern. That being the stropping portion. In my humble opinion, this step is just as crucial as the honing stage. If either step is overlooked, your shave will be less effective as a whole. Take care.

Thanks again guys.

Sorry Sicboater, but I ws just visiting the US and won't be back that way for a long time.

Niell Miller, my mum lives in Essex and I'll be visiting her before too long, it would be great to meet up and see how it's actaully done sometime, let me decide on a diamond pasted strop or a 12k hone first and see if I can't work it out myself, that's gotta be par tpf the fun.

Dean65 and Legatia, very helpful info, thanks,

I can feel that edge getting keener as i read this, looks like I'm in the market for a 12k stone then.