Simple thoughts towards success
I'm going to try and describe what I would consider some key elements of straight shaving that I haven't noted lately in posts.
On honing: One big leap occured for me when I focused on lots and lots of "finishing passes" on the highest grit hone I had. It mattered not what I'd done before hand, but good thorough finishing seems to be very helpful to me. I go for a very smooth edge.
On Stropping: Light and easy at first. If you need more stropping just do it. I think of stropping as the final, final honing. Strop taut, light touch. If you feel any draw your using enough pressure. If you feel draw on one side only, the bevels aren't even with each other. If your feeling no draw; you've either got a strop that doesn't draw, is incorrectly treated, or a dull blade. Two of those three are a problem.
Pass or fail you should try using a thumb pad test before shaving. Just lightly touch the blade with a wetted thumb (20 sec) and see if the skin breaks. It should after stropping. If not thats okay, but when it finally does start working you'll know you've honed and stropped well.
On Grip: The grip is really important. A light touch against the skin is critical but: you've got to have a secure grip. I think of my hand as the head of a DE razor. I jam, securely, the shank between my thumb and my index fingerand lock that baby down! I could crush a pencil in that grip and you'd not be able to pull it out. I lock the back of the shank into the crevice of the first joint. That way the blade isn't going to go anywhere. Again, shave with no pressure against the skin. If no pressure isn't working you've done something wrong in the honing and stropping department. On the other hand, my razor is secure in my hand.
On Lather: Lather is a no brainer. Good prep, of course. I can only suggest washing your face first, twice, leaving the soap on after the second washing and always, always applying two coats of lather. One to soak into the beard and face and one for the shave at the first pass. Your on your own after that.
On skin stretching: I'm going to say something controversial again, sorry, but I like to say my peace. If your finding it critical and challenging to stretch the skin and hold it against the blade, your probably using a blade that isn't sharp or properly stropped. Skin stretching is important, but, the less you feel the need to rely on it the better your shaving. I can now, for the most part, simply tighten my facial skin and find it adequate. For a good razor it should feel like your simply doing some light stretching or just "securing" the skin against the razor. If your pulling the skin in response to the razors drag you may be developing less than optimum habits.
