Newbie Honing Kit

Printable View

02-03-2009, 01:04 PM
Cornelius

1 Attachment(s)

Newbie Honing Kit

Alright, here we go: I've got a "newbie honing kit" together: the usual DMTs (325 - 1200 - 8000 aka Coarse, Extra Fine and E-Extra Fine aka D8C, D8E and D8EE) and a coticule (and a holder for it). Also have pastes and a paddle strop in case the honing should prove successful. Also have a nice and dull, errr, I mean "shave ready" :rolleyes: ebay special. I have some warm water with a few drops of dishwashing liquid in a bowl next to the hones, on the kitchen table. All I know is that I have to slide the razor over the hone edge leading, in an X pattern so that the whole edge gets honed and that I should flip it over the spine to avoid edge damage prior to sliding it back. Wish me luck!
02-03-2009, 02:01 PM
KristofferBodvin

:gl:

Kristoffer
02-03-2009, 02:55 PM
Cornelius

2 Attachment(s)

Well... that was no good. I think the razor is crap. Could not get a decent bevel, the heel did not want to give in. Half the spine came off, though. :thinking:
02-03-2009, 03:03 PM
claytor

I would suggest electrical tape on the spine and using the marker test on the edge of the blade. This way you'll protect the spine and see if you're getting consistent contact on the edge. Are you putting any pressure on the spine? I know when setting a bevel you can get away with edge pressure, but it shouldn't be a lot of pressure and should only be on the spine. I'd try the marker test to see if you're getting even honing.
02-03-2009, 04:55 PM
mlangstr

Hee Conelius you are not giving this up within two hours are you?

Get back to your hone and try again!! :p

to quote Bart: if its not good within 15 minutes of honing go back to a coarser hone..

Did you break in the hones? I didnt and that didnt help...It did cost a lot of wear on the spine..Do you have something to magnify the bevel. It sure helped me to see what I was doing..

I hope you learn from my mistakes and try again and again and again until you get that razor shaveready.... I realy like honing... I think I'll fix my Dorko this evening..

Maarten
02-03-2009, 05:07 PM
Sunbane

Cornelius, where did you purchase the honing kit?
Anyplace online perchance?
02-03-2009, 09:14 PM
nun2sharp

Did you break in the hones, is the coticule lapped? Did you tape the spine? Did you use pressure on the blade(:nono:)? Did you hone the blade evenly? Did you use the marker on the edge? If so what did it tell you? What progression of grits did you use? Did you review the wiki and watch the vids?
02-03-2009, 09:44 PM
Cornelius

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunbane

Cornelius, where did you purchase the honing kit?
Anyplace online perchance?

Check out DMT At least 2 of the 6 retailers listed ship internationally. :)

The coticule I bought from Bruno in the classifieds.
02-03-2009, 09:52 PM
Cornelius

Quote:

Originally Posted by nun2sharp

Did you break in the hones?

Err... no. Well, I lapped the coticule on the 325 to see if it was lapped. It was. Made a thick slurry.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nun2sharp

Did you tape the spine?

No.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nun2sharp

Did you use pressure on the blade(:nono:)?

Not initially. But then I got mad at the blade and did use pressure and Japanese style honing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nun2sharp

Did you hone the blade evenly?

Initially yes, but then I put some pressure on the heel as it didnt want to break in.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nun2sharp

Did you use the marker on the edge?

No, since I could see that the heel wasnt getting honed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nun2sharp

What progression of grits did you use?

DMT 325. That's it. For half an hour or so.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nun2sharp

Did you review the wiki and watch the vids?

Yes last year. :o
02-03-2009, 10:01 PM
Cornelius

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlangstr

Did you break in the hones? I didnt and that didnt help...It did cost a lot of wear on the spine..Do you have something to magnify the bevel. It sure helped me to see what I was doing..

The 325 is probably broken in now, I set a bevel on a cheap kitchen knife. That thing was made out of rubber! :eek: I must have washed half the blade down the drain :rofl2:

Looking at getting a microscope for sure, but right now that's not the problem I think? Does anybody know what kind of razor this is? I think it's poorly made or warped or something. :shrug:
02-04-2009, 04:35 AM
hi_bud_gl

hone

i didn't see this early.most advise is right but do this too.buy cheap razor and try to hone them.it will help you how to progress .Please buy microscope to see what are you doing with the edge.i am not home and using phone line.i hate it.when i got home i will read all messages and try to help you.good luck and never give up.
02-04-2009, 03:27 PM
FloorPizza

Cornelius, the DMT's are a major PITA to hone with until they are (use Mike Meyer's Shrek voice for this next part) *really really* broken in. Even then, they are pretty darn aggressive. I have the best success with the DMT's when I use a 45 degree, heel leading stroke. Either straight down the hone, or X pattern if the blade is warped. Also use some dishwashing liquid in the water lube. Using the dishwashing liquid and the heel leading stroke will take some of the bite out of the DMT's.

It takes *alot* of work to break in DMT's. Much more than sharpening a few kitchen knives.

Personally, I think you have a great setup. That coticule should refine the rough DMT edge very well.

Edit: Pay extra attention to breaking in the edges of the DMT's. The ninety degree drop off on the edges of the DMT's are very unforgiving of any error in an X stroke. I've broken my 8E and EE in on the edges to the point that there is hardly any diamond/nickel plating left on about the last 1/8 " before the edge.
02-04-2009, 04:21 PM
Cornelius

Quote:

Originally Posted by hi_bud_gl

i didn't see this early.most advise is right but do this too.buy cheap razor and try to hone them.

But... that's exactly what I did! :shrug: I dont know what's going on with this razor, but it looks cast rather than forged to me. Maybe one of these Pakistani blades I keep reading about? Or perhaps a Chinese product? What I find most strange is the absence of any clearly marked brand.

And I dont have any other dull razor left to try, they've all been sharpened by SRP honemeisters! :cry:

Quote:

Originally Posted by hi_bud_gl

Please buy microscope to see what are you doing with the edge.

Ok.
02-04-2009, 04:24 PM
Cornelius

Quote:

Originally Posted by FloorPizza

Cornelius, the DMT's are a major PITA to hone with until they are (use Mike Meyer's Shrek voice for this next part) *really really* broken in. Even then, they are pretty darn aggressive.

Well, that's good to hear, really. But how come I still dont have a bevel at the heel after roughly 200 laps on the 325?

Quote:

Originally Posted by FloorPizza

Pay extra attention to breaking in the edges of the DMT's. The ninety degree drop off on the edges of the DMT's are very unforgiving of any error in an X stroke. I've broken my 8E and EE in on the edges to the point that there is hardly any diamond/nickel plating left on about the last 1/8 " before the edge.

How do you break in the edges?
02-04-2009, 04:34 PM
hi_bud_gl

325

CORNELIUS if blade doesn't have an writing in it could be it is pakistany that is really good.then forget about putting a good edge just play with it.it you have done 200 laps on 325 that razor's back should almost gone.is this blade wedge balde?if answer yes change to hallow ground a lot easier to learn.let us know how are you doing ok
don't worry about at heel you don't have bevel blade could be carved reason why .you just try hone you will get there.if you really want to heel use sircular motion only heel ok
02-04-2009, 04:54 PM
Cornelius

Quote:

Originally Posted by hi_bud_gl

CORNELIUS if blade doesn't have an writing in it could be it is pakistany that is really good.

I thought the Pakistani razors were not good? - I dont know where it's from, see post number 3 above for an image. I blew the writing up so you can see if you can recognize / identify it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hi_bud_gl

is this blade wedge balde?

I dont think so, it looks rather hollow. Not sure, though. Here's a picture:
http://666kb.com/i/b650g4kihobl2sjxi.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by hi_bud_gl

don't worry about at heel you don't have bevel blade could be carved reason why .you just try hone you will get there.if you really want to heel use sircular motion only heel ok

Ok. Thanks!
02-04-2009, 06:27 PM
FloorPizza

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cornelius

Well, that's good to hear, really. But how come I still dont have a bevel at the heel after roughly 200 laps on the 325?

How do you break in the edges?

That should certainly be enough laps on that coarse of a stone to put a bevel on anything. The steel might be of such poor quality that it is simply crumbling away. I had this happen on a dubl duck that had lost it's temper, and a pakistani blade, too. I ended up getting the pakistani to take a bevel on a finer grit hone, but it took forever. Too coarse of a grit just made the edge crumble.

To break in the edges of my DMT's, I took my Chinese 12k hone (which is very narrow), and used the side of it on the edges of the DMT's until they were noticeably worn down.
02-08-2009, 11:13 PM
Cornelius

So how do I break in the DMTs? Is there a standard procedure or do I have to hone razors until they finally become broken in at some point?
02-08-2009, 11:34 PM
Bart

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cornelius

So how do I break in the DMTs? Is there a standard procedure or do I have to hone razors until they finally become broken in at some point?

Put a good dense Coticule slurry on the DMT. Take a cabinet scraper, or any other flat piece of hard steel (like a wide chisel), place it flat on the hone and rub back and forth for 15 minutes. Apply decent pressure. Scrub the DMT with a scotch pad (the one you use for washing dishes) and some dishwashing soap, till it looks clean again.
That should do it. Check your razor under magnification, while honing on the DMT's. A DMT that is not broken in well, causes microchipping.

Hope this helps,
Bart.
02-08-2009, 11:47 PM
Cornelius

Fantastic, thanks! :bow

Damn, 15 mins... :gth

I'll do that with the coarse, the fine and the extra-extra fine equally?
02-08-2009, 11:52 PM
hi_bud_gl

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cornelius

I thought the Pakistani razors were not good? -

What i mean pakistany is good .you are going to train on that blade you are not going to use it ,Just learning it,pakistany razors are cheap and you will not regret what you have done to that blade.that is why i said if it doesn't have any written on the shank that is most likely pakistany,i hope i am clear now
02-08-2009, 11:54 PM
Bart

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cornelius

Fantastic, thanks! :bow

Damn, 15 mins... :gth

I'll do that with the coarse, the fine and the extra-extra fine equally?

Yeah... 15 minutes... on all three. And this is not the user guidelines on a tube of contact glue. If I say 15 minutes, I don't mean 7,5.:)

And loose the sig line. It is appalling...:rant::rolleyes::roflmao

Bart.
02-09-2009, 12:18 AM
Cornelius

Quote:

Originally Posted by hi_bud_gl

What i mean pakistany is good .you are going to train on that blade you are not going to use it ,Just learning it,pakistany razors are cheap and you will not regret what you have done to that blade.that is why i said if it doesn't have any written on the shank that is most likely pakistany,i hope i am clear now

Oh, ok, yes, exactly, that's why I got it. ;)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bart

And loose the sig line. It is appalling...:rant::rolleyes::roflmao

:D Just clicked my own sig line... damn! :roflmao

All times are GMT. The time now is 05:12 PM.