Ouch. The Price of a Close Shave. Change Needed?

I've been SR shaving for 2 1/2 weeks now and am mostly pleased with my progress. Thanks again for the tutilege offered here.
My problem now is the irritation I get: redness and soreness mostly below the corners of my mouth, in the hollow above the chin. In order to get a smooth shave, I am probably doing 4 or more passes, relathering with warm good lather each time. Also to get almost as smooth a shave as I got with a DE, I am going XTG and ATG in as many places as I can, though not where I have the greatest irritation. I have no weepers, just this nearly invisible, yet uncomfortable, irritation. My post-shave swipe with an alum block that I've always done tells me what I know...I've been rough with the steel.

Presumably many of you suffered this in your shave development.... So what to do? Two weeks of shaving should not require a rehone (Max honed blade). I strop on cotton and latigo. I think my shave technique is pretty good...use left and right hands, though I have to be a little agressive on upper lip and chin to take off the hair. I'm trying to let the blade do the work.
My prep is good. I know the skin adjusts to the shaving style to some degree. Should I take some breaks...skip a day or so?

I know there may be a hundred variables...and you havent seen me shave, checked the blade, etc etc. But I bet you have some good things for me to consider and try.

Thanks, Jim

There are indeed variables. I know that until I got a blade sharp enough to cut through the chin/mustache area without any pulling whatsoever I was having a tough time. My first couple of weeks I used a DE to get those areas.

Skin stretching is all important on my aged skin. Also I have sensitive skin and I will get irritation if I do more then two passes whether using a straight or a DE. My guess is that is either a technique issue or a razor that isn't as sharp as it should be.... or a combination of the two.

You might try skipping a day and/or using your DE for the problem areas as you develop your technique. I have been straight shaving for more then a year on a daily basis and I am my technique is still improving.

If you have irritation after the shave I might suggest that you find a post shave routine that will heal the skin better. In the beginning I was doing everything possible. As my technique improves I can cut back a bit but still maintain the basics, which for me is cold water rinse, alum bar, followed by witch hazel, followed by corn huskers lotion, if there is any dryness or irritation I follow with a healing after shave cream. In the beginning I was also using the AS cream before bed. I shave in the AM. Occasionally I would apply a second AS cream just before I left the house for work. I can't remember the name of the cream I found most healing off hand, but there are so many products avail I'm sure that you will find the right combo. Keep up the good shaves and work on the skin. As your technique gets more mellow your skin will too.

I agree with the above points, but one thing that came to mind that wasn't mentioned was pressure. I also have very sensitive skin, and if I use just a little too much pressure, especially on my neck and around my mouth, then I get irritation. I try to shave with the least pressure possible. Also what mkevenson mentioned about after-care has helped me immensely. Rinsing with the coldest water out of the tap possible really helped the irritation with me. Alum can be hard on your skin, you could try skipping that step and see how your skin reacts afterwards.

If your doing 4+ passes that's too much. The more contact you have with the blade the greater the chances for irritation no matter how sharp the blade is or your technique is. Its quality over quantity. Try and get the job done with fewer passes. if you can't then reexamine the sharpness of your blade and/or your technique.

If in doubt, go for comfort first. Work on the hard areas on days off so you can take your time learning what works best for you... :jedi:

Thanks all.
Over the noon hour I bought a bottle of Nivea "Sensitive" Post Shave Balm for the office. Good cheap stuff.

My guess is I'll try to improve upon my blades with my yet unused pasted strop and coticule....in which case I will doubtless have many more questions! I tend to learn by trial and error (with plenty off the latter).

Ciao,
Jim

Try doing the final touch-ups using just water instead of lather It works surprisingly well sometimes.
Also a slight scything motion can help the blade cut more effortlessly.

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Originally Posted by jleeg

Over the noon hour I bought a bottle of Nivea "Sensitive" Post Shave Balm for the office. Good cheap stuff.

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I've used the exact same after shave balm for almost a year now. The price is right, it smells great, and it works well with my sensitive skin.

Bigspender is right 4+ passes is too much.

Straightrazordave mentioned cold water. Me, after I rinse with cold water, I run an ice cube over my face (like you would an alum block). Feels great, closes up the pores. I follow that with witch hazel and am in pretty good shape.

I learned the ice cube thing from someone here once upon a time, but I'm darned if I remember who.

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Originally Posted by thebigspendur

If your doing 4+ passes that's too much. The more contact you have with the blade the greater the chances for irritation no matter how sharp the blade is or your technique is. Its quality over quantity. Try and get the job done with fewer passes. if you can't then reexamine the sharpness of your blade and/or your technique.

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+ a lot.

You should start with doing 2 passes. No more. Stay on that regime, till you manage to do them without building up skin irritation over a number of shaves. After a while your developed skills doing those 2 passes will yield no further improvement of results. Only then, it's time to start thinking about adding a 3th pass, that may even only be needed on a few stubborn spots.

Best regards,
Bart.

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Originally Posted by Rajagra

Try doing the final touch-ups using just water instead of lather It works surprisingly well sometimes.
Also a slight scything motion can help the blade cut more effortlessly.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bart

You should start with doing 2 passes. No more. Stay on that regime, till you manage to do them without building up skin irritation over a number of shaves. After a while your developed skills doing those 2 passes will yield no further improvement of results. Only then, it's time to start thinking about adding a 3th pass, that may even only be needed on a few stubborn spots.

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I agree 110% with both posts. I get good results using slightly soapy water for the final trouble spots doing what amounts to two passes, WTG and XTG. Heck, I had my best shave last night doing this. :y I have more trouble trying to hold the razor for a couple of tough to get places. :hmmm:

Jleeg, I have been shaving for about 5 days now and have the exact same issues as you are describing, irritation under the corners of the mouth. I think because you and I are coming from a DE background we are expecting a level of closeness from our straights that just can't be had in a short time. I am doing the same as you, attacking my face with as many passess and touch ups as needed to get BBS, but as you have indicated the ole Alum block does not lie, too much metal, thus irritation.

I'm really trying to lessen up on the pressure, it really is a learned art. With the DE all you really need to worry about it blade ange which is easy with little practice and pressure which is also easy. I find with a DE you place th blade on your face and the handle faces down, therefore your motions are to pull down to cut the beard. With the straight you hold the blade higher and have to push the blade down, I'm struggling with this, but it will come. Glad to hear there are other people who did not have the best shave of their lives right from their first shave.

JC