Ninety Shaves Retrospective
Genesis:
I am writing this post somewhat reluctantly in that as a rather private person, I am generally more comfortable lurking than participating in these types of forums.
In any event the post is in a sense a tribute to this site and an acknowledgment to it in assisting me in beginning to learn how to straight razor shave.
I have used an electric razor for over thirty years ago and at various times tried a duel edge razor. The duel edge razor was a disaster many nicks, razor bumps and razor burn.My electric razor in January broke and I began the internet hunt for another electric razor of best quality at the least price. I found no electric razor that I liked but came across articles about straight shaving that intrigued me.
By way of background, I had a barber give me a straight shave several years ago. He used a feather razor and although it was NOT a great shave it was a good shave. In part he explained that that would happen because my skin was not accustomed to that type of shaving and he said that to give me a very close shave would have left my skin red and uncomfortable.
I then decide after several weeks of visiting this site, reading and contemplating to try straight razor shaving. The attraction was a really close shave but done in a way that has significant nostalgic machismo appeal. My wife had serious reservations but since she had very fond memories of her grandfather shaving with a straight razor, I received the green light.
The Purchase:
I decided to purchase a straight razor and all necessary equipment new “shave ready” as I was not qualified to gauge quality sharpness and condition. The idea was a good razor and equipment for a beginner. Again this site was a good source of information. Main purchases were a Dovo “best quality” 6/8 razor. I ordered a 5/8 but it wasn’t available so I went with a 6/8 for same price as 5/8, Dovo 3 inch strop and Vulfix all from a vendor recommended by this site. I am very happy with the purchases. I opted for shave cream instead of soap as it seems to offer more protection to my face. I purchased all sorts of accouterments including 24 barber towels.
My feeling was to purchase the proper equipment so that if I decided straight shaving was not for me it would not be because what I was using for equipment was inadequate but at the same time I did not want to over spend on a razor or brush which may just end up collecting dust in a drawer somewhere.
I initially purchased no honing stones or devices.
The Prep:
While waiting to receive my order I watched every video and read every article I could find on the internet relating to shaving, stropping, lathering, honing and preparation.
About a week later my order came in. Opening and holding that first straight razor is an awing experience. Its very pretty, you know it is mercilessly sharp and you’re task is to master it and make it productive for you.
Having been raised around guns, heavy equipment and the like, I decided to develop a few safety rules for myself. You must always respect the razor. Except when in my hand to be used, the razor is always closed. Even when shaving if I set it down to wipe my hands, I close the razor. I shave with sweats or other pants on and something on my feet. To me a falling razor at some point can turn into a guillotine and I want no exposed appendages.
I requisitioned two heavy porcelain bowls from the kitchen one small to serve as my shaving bowl and the other larger one to put hot water in to keep the shave bowl warm.
I do not have a heavy beard, I would say average but extremely wiry like hair. Although I do not have a ruddy complexion, I do have very sensitive skin. For those reasons I decided hot towels prior to each shave were a must. We have very hot tap water but I decided to micro wave damp towels. I micro waved towels almost to hot to hold but which my face could endure. This caused me irritation and I later determined towels wet with hot water from the tap were slightly less hot but provided no irritation to the face.
I studied lather, uberlather and adding ingredients to cream or soap. Early on in the process I decided to add something to my cream to enhance its protection of my skin and this concept grew on me. Currently I add olive oil (light olive oil has much less odor), coconut oil, castor oil, glycerin and bentonite clay to my cream. Bentonite clay seems about the slickest ingredient you can add to shave cream. Adding these ingredients requires using more cream about twice the normal almond size dollop. The clay and oils give me a fairly heavy but very lubricating and slick lather. I have shaved using just the shave cream and find it much less slick and lubricating. With my concoction I can easily do all three shaving passes with very little irritation, very few nicks and the lather never dries on my face.
I shave every day so no irritation is very important. Early on in the process after a week or so, I didn’t use the straight razor for 3 or 4 days to give my face a chance to heal and adjust.
The lather I make is gunky and it is easier to wipe off onto a barber towel instead of rinsing the blade under water. Also, mixing this is harder on the brush. For that reason, I am not sure I will ever use an expensive silver tip brush. Also, the mixture destroys any scent from the creams.
Also, I lather after shaving and let the oils and clay sooth my face and seals up any nicks. Don’t know if there are any draw backs to it all but it works for me.
Stropping while seemingly easy after studying videos has probably caused me more issues than any other part of the process. When I increase my speed my technique falters. It is also my least favorite part of the ritual.
The Shave:
I followed the advise of starting small just shaving with the grain on the check areas. My first shaves were difficult, in retrospect due to the size of the razor. I was in fact temped to throw in the towel. However, I determined to go forward and decided to purchase a second less expensive honed razor from the classified ads at this site. I purchased a 4/8 razor at a reasonable price. I found this blade much easier to shave with and I considered never using the Dovo again. I also had to be patience in that I would often consider re-shaving an area four or five times to practice technique etc. Not a good idea.
It all went fairly well so I proceeded to the neck and then chin and mustache areas over a few weeks. I also ordered two more honed razors from the same vendor. All are very satisfactory. Using the smaller blades at first made it easier to use the Dovo and now I like the Dovo very much. For some reason, I decided to actually measure the blades and found that the Dovo was really 7/8’s in size. This is a nice razor but to big for a beginner I think.
I have been fortunate plenty of small nicks, generally fewer as time has gone on and only several cuts but none in awhile.
I adopted the one hand shaving technique using my dominant left hand. It seems to work fairly well for me. It took me a month to work up to shaving all parts of my beard and I now do all three passes.
Three passes are necessary for me for a good smooth shave. Technique is still a work in progress. I remind myself of three important rules little pressure, stretch the skin and be mindful of blade angle. I have experience several very excellent shaves and most of my shaves are very good. But I must confess to still touching up with an old electric razor as I have problems with the chin, jaw line and mustache areas. It is still a work in progress.
Owning four razors I then purchased an additional three on eBay as I had some comparatives to gage what I wanted. One which was shave ready (it had an undisclosed nick at the very heal of the blade edge which has not affected it as a shaver.), which I use and two that were sent to a vendor for an overhaul. My advice on eBay where I have purchased many different goods over the years is always bid a small grade lower than what the Seller’s representation of the items condition would have you bid.
I only recently have attempted the coup de maitre with limited success. Say what you want but I can feel the devil bite my a_ _ ankle when I touch the blade to my face at almost a ninety degree angle below my nose.
I wipe my razor on the barber’s towel when I shave. Looking at the results of a pass gives me feedback as to how well I am removing my beard.
I tend for now to be a sloppy shaver with lather in my nose, ears and hair. It is better for me to shower afterwards.
I use a shave balm after a shave and this is a must for me.
Aftermath:
My right arm has all the hair shaved off from testing.
I intend to keep straight razor shaving for a year and see how I stand. I also would like to purchase at least two more exceptional razors during that time.
The whole experience has been very rewarding. I enjoy shaving and the shaves are much better than what I could get from an electric razor.
I have, of course, wanted to touch up my razors so I have purchase various grades diamond lapping film. I have been able to touch up my razors with good success.
A woman who knows me well asked me, when she heard that I was learning to shave with a straight razor, if I dreaded getting up in the morning because I would have to shave my face with a straight razor. In fact it is just the opposite; I really look forward to getting up and shaving in the morning.
Also, straight razor shaving has a quality of requiring such attention that you must put aside you thoughts regarding work, your job or whatever and just concentrate on the task at hand. I find this particularly engaging. It really helps prepare me for my work day and is worth the forty minutes it takes me to shave.
Finally, an occasional luxury for me when I shave is to spend fifteen minutes with my face over a facial steamer with a towel draped over my head just before I shave. The steam softens my beard like no other method I have tried and the blade seems to then just wipe away my beard. The several times I have tried this I have gotten incredible shaves.
Finally, thank you to all the participants in this forum. Without a forum like this straight razor shaving for someone like me would not be possible. The learning curve would be to great and the information gap to severe.
PWS203
