protect your razor with WD 40? also, stropping strategy

Premium Knives Help Menu - Straight Razor Care

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Apply a light -water displacing oil to the blade after each shaving session or apply a product such as Tuff-Glide once every 2-3 weeks to a clean dry razor.

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WD = water displacer, so...?

also, i just got ordered this strop: RupRazor - The Filly

i plan on stropping before every shave with the smooth side, but am thinking about applying paste to the coarse side for monthly (weekly?) touch ups (in hopes of this method will allow me to go longer between honings)

Water displacer yes, good lubricant, not really. Besides, are you will to smear that stuff on your face? If you use it on your razors, its residue will be on your face.

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Originally Posted by Utopian

Water displacer yes, good lubricant, not really. Besides, are you will to smear that stuff on your face? If you use it on your razors, its residue will be on your face.

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ew, good point. i think i'll stick with my original plan of a hot water rinse, followed by a smearing of baby oil (scented mineral oil)...

Firstly whether you even need oil is a variable of climate, location and rotation....

Just for info...
I have well over 50 razors in rotation, I let them sit for extended periods, I rinse and wipe and leave them open for 24 hours before I oil them and store them again....
I have never had a rust issue
I spray WD_40 on a piece of TP and gently wipe down the blade and tang right before I close the razor and store it again..
I actually rinse the blade under hot water and wipe it off before each time I use the razor then I strop the razor then rinse the razor again under hot hot water to warm the blade before I shave...
I would assume you would rinse and wipe the blade before each use regardless of the oil you would use, I don't want Camilla oil or Mineral oil on my strops either...
There are some actual rust tests that have been done and posted on here and the best is not a common use product on the forum it is a gun oil... and rather expensive...

there ya go my 2 cents

After a few years of trying to get WD40 off old firearms and their mechanizms... I will never touch the stuff again, unless I want to ruin something.

I would also be worried about WD40 reacting with scale material, let alone your face, wipeing will not get it all off, it's stubern stuff...

When I was in the army we were told not to use wd40, because it would dry and leave airspace between the film of wd and the metal leaving room for moisture, which as everyone knows will lead to rust.

Rinse the blade under hot water

Wipe dry

Wipe with rust preventive or other oil

Store until tomorrow

Wipe blade to remove most of the oil

Wipe blade with solvent to remove the rest of the oil so you don't saturate your face or the strop with oil remnants

Wipe the blade with alcohol or acetone to remove solvent traces

Strop, shave, repeat above steps.

:deadhorse:

This seems like a lot of commotion. I wonder what the oldtimers did? It's a good thing that no one has suggested we try brush keeping oil for the lather makers. Hmmm... :thinking:

I didn't say that :ziplip:

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Originally Posted by Bruce

Rinse the blade under hot water

Wipe dry

Wipe with rust preventive or other oil

Store until tomorrow

Wipe blade to remove most of the oil

Wipe blade with solvent to remove the rest of the oil so you don't saturate your face or the strop with oil remnants

Wipe the blade with alcohol or acetone to remove solvent traces

Strop, shave, repeat above steps.

:deadhorse:

This seems like a lot of commotion. I wonder what the oldtimers did? It's a good thing that no one has suggested we try brush keeping oil for the lather makers. Hmmm... :thinking:

I didn't say that :ziplip:

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hmm, for that "wipe with solvent" step, I was thinking rubbing alcohol until I read the next step.
what kind of solvent are you referring to, if not rubbing alcohol?

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Originally Posted by DwarvenChef

After a few years of trying to get WD40 off old firearms and their mechanizms... I will never touch the stuff again, unless I want to ruin something.

I would also be worried about WD40 reacting with scale material, let alone your face, wipeing will not get it all off, it's stubern stuff...

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Originally Posted by nun2sharp

When I was in the army we were told not to use wd40, because it would dry and leave airspace between the film of wd and the metal leaving room for moisture, which as everyone knows will lead to rust.

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If you actually look at real test results done by many of the gun guys you are going to find that WD-40 tests in the very good category above many other oils that claim they are better for anti-rust, it is not recommended for internal lube on gun mechanisms because of the gumming up issues with storage...
As to harming scales, no it doesn't harm any scales that I have used it on, which include everything except oil/wax treated wood like Livi uses.....

I am not promoting anything here, but it does work, and it works well...
as do many other lubes/oils.... You can use anything you want to....
But for pure anti-rust properties there are only one or two gun products that test better Eezox and Break Free clp to be exact....

For the price of a few nails you could do yer own tests with any products you might want.....

Maybe we should do a test for us razor guys instead of relying on the gun guys tests,,,, they don't test Camilla oil or Vaseline or Mineral oil

FWIW - I have both carbon and stainless razors and live on the Florida coast (kind of humid). I just rinse them off with hot water, wipe off the excess and strop a couple of times on my forearm. Leave them open overnight to be sure they're dry and then put them back in one of the cigar boxes for storage. Never seen any rust at all, maybe I'm just lucky :shrug:

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Originally Posted by gssixgun

If you actually look at real test results done by many of the gun guys you are going to find that WD-40 tests in the very good category above many other oils that claim they are better for anti-rust, it is not recommended for internal lube on gun mechanisms because of the gumming up issues with storage...
As to harming scales, no it doesn't harm any scales that I have used it on, which include everything except oil/wax treated wood like Livi uses.....

I am not promoting anything here, but it does work, and it works well...
as do many other lubes/oils.... You can use anything you want to....
But for pure anti-rust properties there are only one or two gun products that test better Eezox and Break Free clp to be exact....

For the price of a few nails you could do yer own tests with any products you might want.....

Maybe we should do a test for us razor guys instead of relying on the gun guys tests,,,, they don't test Camilla oil or Vaseline or Mineral oil

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I have a couple razors that i am willing to sacrifice if someone wants to do tests.....

I won't even try and comment on the WD-40 issue just to say I'm not a fan of the stuff as a protectant. What I use for normal rust prevention is Sterol. For long term I use AG Russell no rust which is a silicon based liquid that is designed for knives and guns and will protect a very long time and because it's non petrolium based the silicon does not dry or deteriorate.

The best thing I have done is to stop storing my razors in the bathroom!:rant:

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Originally Posted by jehan60188

also, i just got ordered this strop: RupRazor - The Filly

i plan on stropping before every shave with the smooth side, but am thinking about applying paste to the coarse side for monthly (weekly?) touch ups (in hopes of this method will allow me to go longer between honings)

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Just so you know if you read the description very carefully that strop already comes pasted on the back ;)



...............now back to the lubricant debate

personally I just rinse mine w/ very hot water to promote drying, dry w/ a towel then dip in alcahol and keep it open (no little ones in my home) in a spot nobody will acidently reach for... also have a fan.

why not olive oil? It's in a lot of our soaps anyway...

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Originally Posted by khaos

why not olive oil? It's in a lot of our soaps anyway...

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Partly because mineral oil (especially in the form of Johnson's Baby Oil) is so much less expensive than good olive oil? It's also easier to clean off, and won't go rancid like some cooking oils. Even olive oil will start to get pretty strong-smelling after a few days exposed to the air.

I mean mineral oil is the best but someone was concerned about putting unnatural things on their face....

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Originally Posted by khaos

I mean mineral oil is the best but someone was concerned about putting unnatural things on their face....

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Mineral oil unnatural? It comes from oil, isn't that natural?
Besides the fact that it's used on babies' skin with no ill effects, that really doesn't matter. Because you should be cleaning it off the razor before you strop and shave.

All oils are natural in a sense since they are derived from crude oil which is very natural or come from animals like cod liver oil or sperm whale oil or plants. However after processing you wouldn't want to put 3 in 1 oil on your face would you?

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Originally Posted by thebigspendur

All oils are natural in a sense since they are derived from crude oil which is very natural or come from animals like cod liver oil or sperm whale oil or plants. However after processing you wouldn't want to put 3 in 1 oil on your face would you?

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Yeah someone had said that so I said olive oil cus if you're really concerned Olive Oil is 100% natural and safe and organic and not processed and stuff. I personally use the Johnson Baby Oil stuff.

While we're arguing the stupid technicalities, as far as I know WD-40 is a synth oil. Sure its came from crude oil, but the crude oil is basically just a convenient source of carbon chains. I don't think you will find WD-40 anywhere in nature. Just as gold can be found naturally, gold rings are not natural. Alder, Rosewood, Spruce and cat gut are all natural but a guitar is not natural. Iron is natural but engine blocks aren't. Silica sand (SiO2) is natural but champagne glasses aren't.

Come on guys lets let it rest. The real question is, is it practical to use? That is personal preference. If you want to deal with getting it off of your razor go ahead. If you're okay using a synth motor oil on your face, go ahead. If you're not, no one is forcing you. Any oil will work. Anything that doesn't have an OH bond really. (Water, organic acids (vinegar), alcohols, aldehydes are all out, ketones and oils are fine though) Actually anything that is not an oxidizing agent. If you really wanna get antsy-pantsy, the Gutenburg Bible I saw (second book ever printed, housed at Yale) is enclosed in a sealed glass case that is filled with argon and lighted by bulbs that produce only low wavelength light, and is housed in a library where the walls and windows are made out of a thin limestone that lets in only soft light and balances the pH of air moisture- limestone neutralises acidic air pollutants like SO2 and NOx (combines with H2O vapor to form H2SO3 and HNO3 and HNO2).

So if you really really really care that much.... I suggested getting an airlock, a cannister of argon gas- though helium will work too, CO2 will work in a pinch, its a little cheaper but the razor has to be dry or else carbonic acid will form (H2CO3)- but argon is better as it is denser than O2, CO2, H2O, N2 and other air particulates so it will force them all out, and some high tech lightbulbs and creating a nice protective case for your razors. Its the only way to truly take care of them.

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Originally Posted by khaos

Yeah someone had said that so I said olive oil cus if you're really concerned Olive Oil is 100% natural and safe and organic and not processed and stuff. I personally use the Johnson Baby Oil stuff.

While we're arguing the stupid technicalities, as far as I know WD-40 is a synth oil. Sure its came from crude oil, but the crude oil is basically just a convenient source of carbon chains. I don't think you will find WD-40 anywhere in nature. Just as gold can be found naturally, gold rings are not natural. Alder, Rosewood, Spruce and cat gut are all natural but a guitar is not natural. Iron is natural but engine blocks aren't. Silica sand (SiO2) is natural but champagne glasses aren't.

Come on guys lets let it rest. The real question is, is it practical to use? That is personal preference. If you want to deal with getting it off of your razor go ahead. If you're okay using a synth motor oil on your face, go ahead. If you're not, no one is forcing you. Any oil will work. Anything that doesn't have an OH bond really. (Water, organic acids (vinegar), alcohols, aldehydes are all out, ketones and oils are fine though) Actually anything that is not an oxidizing agent. If you really wanna get antsy-pantsy, the Gutenburg Bible I saw (second book ever printed, housed at Yale) is enclosed in a sealed glass case that is filled with argon and lighted by bulbs that produce only low wavelength light, and is housed in a library where the walls and windows are made out of a thin limestone that lets in only soft light and balances the pH of air moisture- limestone neutralises acidic air pollutants like SO2 and NOx (combines with H2O vapor to form H2SO3 and HNO3 and HNO2).

So if you really really really care that much.... I suggested getting an airlock, a cannister of argon gas- though helium will work too, CO2 will work in a pinch, its a little cheaper but the razor has to be dry or else carbonic acid will form (H2CO3)- but argon is better as it is denser than O2, CO2, H2O, N2 and other air particulates so it will force them all out, and some high tech lightbulbs and creating a nice protective case for your razors. Its the only way to truly take care of them.

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i just called walmart, they're out of argon

:w

imagine that.
Don't fret, target carries Helium. Just be sure to use extra to compress all that nasty air out of your sealed razor box.

What I've been using (Ballistol):
Corrosion Prevention - Second Round

It will emulsify with water (beats water displacement, IME) and can be applied to minor cuts and wounds (part of it's original design specification), so it should be skin friendly. I have tested it on numerous cuts and abrasions over the last 6 to 8 months with good results. Works great on my firearms, too. Cost is around $10 per 16 ounces.

EDIT: I tested Ballistol vs. Mineral oil vs. Olive oil this summer. Ballistol won easily.

Yep, like Khaos said, all oil's will protect, but not all oil's are good to use on such a delicate place as your face. And with the hyper-sensitivity issues that seem to have creeped into our society as a whole, that could cause some major discomfort, if not worse for some unsuspecting individual. If you can get some, get some Camilia oil and use just the slightest amount on the razor, AFTER you have dried it off. It will work pretty good for most. If you have any trouble finding any, just pm me and I'll direct you to a place you can find some. Take care and God Bless!