Should I use the sweeping honing stroke to correct this?
edges = toe, heel
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Should I use the sweeping honing stroke to correct this?
edges = toe, heel
Does the blade make contact with the hone at all points if you lie it flat?
spine does, cutting edge does not
then yes, a rolling stroke of some sort is what I would use.
What kind of blade edge is this????
as in:
Straight
Gentle Smile
Smile
Big Honking Grin...
The simple answer is, "whatever stroke keeps the entire edge moving across the hone evenly".. but I can tell you more accurately with more info...
look here too
http://straightrazorpalace.com/srpwi...honing_a_razor
Both sides sit dead flat at spine, cutting edge is slightly more deeply recessed at toe and heal than at center, which I figure is the problem. Easiest solution would be to grind the center back and rebevel and rehone, but I don't want to go through all that if it can be avoided.
Straight
C-Mon "Blackie" 6/8 - Straight Razor Place Wiki
Straight edge with slight toe wear
C-Mon "Special" 6/8 - Straight Razor Place Wiki
slight smile
Barlow, James & Sons "Echo" 6/8 - Straight Razor Place Wiki
Smile
Wade & Butcher "Unspecified" 6/8 2 - Straight Razor Place Wiki
Big Honking Grin
Cant find a pic
But you would know if you had one...
"Straight edge with slight toe wear"
45 degree X stroke should do the best at keeping the least amount of bad wear off there...
You have to watch the honing progression, the bad wear will suck you back in, sorta like ruts in a muddy road... I would recommend using 1 layer of electrical tape to get the edge correct on there, it is like grading the ruts out of the road...Using a marker to paint the edge also will give you a fast visual reference..
Swooping off the toe will work, to get the edge sharp, but that is not really the correct way to hone it.. Your real objective is to try and reduce that bad wear not just hone over it
I hope that made sense
Basically go back to the road analogy, you can keep driving down the ruts, or you can fill them in a have a nice even road again....
I'm not sure anybody is convinced yet the razor has a problem. If it was manufactured with a smile, as many razors are, you will probably want to keep it that way.
That could be the design.
At one time, I felt my strop was buckling ever so slightly in the middle not matter how taut I made it. I would strop and thought the middle of the straight razor was always a little sharper than the toe or heal.
I used my pasted paddle strop to give about 10 strokes to the toe and heel, then used a 20 x patterns to keep it all even. After this effort, my entire straight was equally sharp and I have since reestablished a flat strop from end to end.
The best investment I made in strops was my trusty 4 sided pasted paddle strop from Tony Miller. It always comes in handy in maintaining my straight razors.
Pabster