Straight Razor Care, Oiling

So, I have been reading about all things straight razor lately as I eagerly await getting a straight razor for Christmas, and I have noticed some mixed signals with respect to razor care. I know how badly carbon steel can rust without proper care. Several places seem to indicate that a razor should be oiled after each use and then cleaned with alcohol prior to the next use. Is this clean, oil, clean, oil cycle pretty standard. I don't seem to be hearing about that on this forum, so I'm beginning to question the validity of the other sources.

I am eager to be enlightened on this.

Thanks!

Carl

If you use it daily and clean and dry it between uses and don't store it in a steam room you will be fine. Never oil mine and no rust YET!

That seems to make sense to me. Would that mean I should not store it in the bathroom? I have a brush and razor stand for my safety razor and brush that I normally use, and I keep it next to the sink in my bathrom with all my other toiletries. I'd probably keep the straight razor in the drawer by the sink, rather than the counter, for my own protection, but should I instead move it out into the bedroom away from the humidity?

Carl

What about the leather razor cases that I have seen? Are they more for traveling, or storing in the house?

Thanks again.:matrix:

It all depends on how much use the showers are getting if its just you and the misses you should be fine, if its 10 people I would put it in a box in my sock drawer. Mine are in the bath room with no issues.

I kept my razors in the bathroom in the medicine cabinet for a while. One day I notice two were starting to get some little rust pits on the blade. Now I keep some in a rack on my dresser and some in coffins in the dresser drawer, have not noticed any rust since. I do use my regularly so I don't oil them though I do make sure the pins are kept oiled as that is a perfect place for moisture to accumulate.

I've kept mine next to the sink for near two decades with no problem. A little oil sometimes and recently started using tuf-glide. My grandfather kept his in the bathroom next to the sink for 60 years with almost no signs of age.

It's good to hear that I will not need to make oiling a daily ritual, although I am sure to order some mineral oil in case I need it. I look forward to my first shave, even though I am sure it will have many of the same troubles that my first safety razor shave had. On the bright side, I can at least make a half decent lather now, unlike when I began shaving with my safety razor.

Thanks for all the input! I'm encouraged by the prompt and friendly responses on this forum.

Carl

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Originally Posted by cmorris

It's good to hear that I will not need to make oiling a daily ritual, although I am sure to order some mineral oil in case I need it. I look forward to my first shave, even though I am sure it will have many of the same troubles that my first safety razor shave had. On the bright side, I can at least make a half decent lather now, unlike when I began shaving with my safety razor.

Thanks for all the input! I'm encouraged by the prompt and friendly responses on this forum.

Carl

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Use a good quality blade oil. Check Straight Razor Designs or Classic Shaving for some. Also tuf-glide works really well for me and it's not an oily product.

The quality of oil is something I hadn't thought about. What are the significant qualities to look for? I assumed that all oils were made equal, which of course doesn't have to be true.

Carl

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Originally Posted by DistortedPenguin

Use a good quality blade oil. Check Straight Razor Designs or Classic Shaving for some. Also tuf-glide works really well for me and it's not an oily product.

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I just ordered some from SRD's. THe stuff found on the dovo razor section. Ordered it today. Get an email 30 minutes later that told me it was shipped. Amazingly quick.:matrix:

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Originally Posted by cmorris

The quality of oil is something I hadn't thought about. What are the significant qualities to look for? I assumed that all oils were made equal, which of course doesn't have to be true.

Carl

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Camellia oil works great, you can get all over the net and I know SRD carries it. Any traditional blade / knife oil will work fine.

cmorris,

+1 on the TufGlide/TufCloth.

It leaves a dry layer that does not interfere/nefatively affect leather or cloth strops. I live very close to the Sea in a leaky old Victorian house; my carbon steel blades have remained spotless with TufGlide :)

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ

I thought it was an urban legend that a regularly used razor would get rusted, that's until it happened to me, less than two weeks into my ownership of a Dovo Quality 6/8. Granted you have to be a bit anal to be a straight razor user but I guess I wasn't anal enough. I generally wiped it clean and dried but I forgot about the scales. I should have never get the scales so wet and "dirty" to begin with. So a couple of days into my ownership I found out some pit happened on the blade. I was able to remove the giant share of the spots. And I used some MAAS cream to clean the remaining. It did a decent job but there is still a tiny tiny dot on it. Good thing is it doesn't have any on the cutting edge so it doesn't affect the shave except maybe psychologically. I would never ever open the blade and let it air dry because I have young children around. So I try to keep the scales dry, the blade dry, and sometimes just put some olive oil or wd40 when I feel like it. It probably isn't the best advice ... but I guess it would keep it from rusting.

I have 5 straight razors, but I still use only one. Other four are covered with olive oil and kept away from moisture (bathroom).

A decent gun oil will also work, but the Camellia oil, I believe is formulated such that if you ever forgot to clean it completely, and nicked yourself, it wouldn't create a health problem. I have been using a higher quality gun oil with good results, but have asked for some Camellia oil for Christmas.

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Originally Posted by Tuxedo7

A decent gun oil will also work, but the Camellia oil, I believe is formulated such that if you ever forgot to clean it completely, and nicked yourself, it wouldn't create a health problem. I have been using a higher quality gun oil with good results, but have asked for some Camellia oil for Christmas.

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How come I never thought about it, the health aspect of things? That's a very good point. So maybe I shouldn't be too crazy about the WD40 after all. Thanks.

I do not oil mine, and have no problems with rust. If you do opt to oil, just use a light mineral oil (sewing machine oil, food grade white oil).

I oil after every use. It takes 5 seconds and why not protect your investment.

I guess the "health" issue would only be a problem if you didn't clean your razor very well before shaving. Since the camillia oil is really not very expensive, it probably makes sense to be safe. The primary use of Camillia oil, I believe, is for skin and hair, and can be found for $6 to $15 per ounce ... which should last a long time. I do like the tuf-glide "style" applicator because it is effective in oiling your pins ... the gun oil I use has a similary applicator, and it is great for putting a very small amount on pins and avoiding waste. When I get my Camillia oil, I'm actually going to see if the applicator will fit on the Camillia oil top/mouth so I can use it more sparingly.

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Originally Posted by Bayamontate

I oil after every use. It takes 5 seconds and why not protect your investment.

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+1, I'm sure oiling for my climate and location is overkill, but taking a few seconds to be on the safe side is way better than cleaning rust off a blade if it turns out you needed it.

Skip the "razor oil". I just use a bottle of johnson's baby oil AKA mineral oil... 5$ for more than half a liter... should last you a good while...

i usually wipe mine dry after i shave, then put a little Vaseline on the blade. i dont store it in my bathroom because of all the moisture that stays in there, especially after a shower therefore i just keep it in my room.

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Originally Posted by chris21908

i dont store it in my bathroom because of all the moisture that stays in there, especially after a shower therefore i just keep it in my room.

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+1, My razor has wood scales and I don't want it sitting the steam if I can just store it out of the bathroom.

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Originally Posted by TheBaron

+1, My razor has wood scales and I don't want it sitting the steam if I can just store it out of the bathroom.

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very true, especially if you have wood scales! even if the wood was coated with all weather deck sealer i still wouldn't trust it with moisture!

There are other issues besides rust and one is oxidation, which I guess is really rust. A razor with a polished finish will dull eventually. I use Ballistol and it has worked wonders with my razors. Eventually you will get a spot, or whatever, on your prized carbon steel razor if you do not oil it. I run the blade under hot water then dry it and leave it open on a towel while I clean up my brush and bowls. I then go back and oil it with an applicator. Another benefit that I am finding is that my edges seem to stay sharper longer because there is no oxidation attacking the cutting edge between shaves.
Take Care,
Richard

My little FYI that I always drag out on these oiling threads..!

When you apply the oil, do so sparingly. If you put on too much you could stain scales that are made out of wood or bone, or some other porous material.

If you do stain your scales you can get it off by opening the razor out straight, wrapping the blade in a thick cloth, wrapping the scales in a tissue and leaving the razor on a warm radiator. The heat will sweat the oil out of the scales, or most of it at any rate..!

Back to the topic: Oiling is good for long term storage, but I dont oil mine as they are in fairly constant use. Plus I dont keep them in the bathroom and the UK is not too humid!

I read somewhere that rust pits start to form almost immediately if not coated with oil. And, that the rust is not typically visible to the eye. The article was actually a fairly long article and study from I think the 1930s or 1940s which used microscope views. The conclusion was that rust pitting was almost as much an enemy of the quality of the edge as shaving.

Has anyone else heard the same thing?

I have wooden scales and some 100 year old acetate scales and Ballistol has yet to cause a problem after more than about a year of daily use. I am telling you when you get a carbon straight that is over $300 USD or a custom that little spot will drive you insane.......OUT DAMN SPOT, OUT! :overkill:


Take Care,
Richard

What are your thoughts on maybe not a oil but a metal polish like flitz, or is this overkill

First hi and welcome. This thread is 6 years old so you might not get a lot of replys. Metal polish tends to dry on the blade so I couldn't see it protecting to well and it is also abrasive so every time you cleaned it off you would be removing small amounts of metal and this could affect you edge. Some from memory also have chemical agents that may effect the edge and either way would affect etching and goldwash etc. Simple petroleum oil like baby oil is a much better option.

Thanks for the heads up. I'll stick with a light oil for long storage.

Both my Hart Steel Kamis came with a bottle of razor oil and I dab a little on my razor after I clean and dry it. It's just become part of my ritual that I don't think about anymore.
I'm sure daily oiling isn't critical, but I do it anyway.

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Originally Posted by cutter2001

What about the leather razor cases that I have seen? Are they more for traveling, or storing in the house?

Thanks again.:matrix:

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I have 2 7 day leather roll ups. But as a longhaultanker truck driver, I take my gear with me on the road. If I were home more I'd still use my roll ups.

I use J&J baby oil after every use. I occasionally use alcohol before use.

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Originally Posted by fccexpert

I do not oil mine, and have no problems with rust. If you do opt to oil, just use a light mineral oil (sewing machine oil, food grade white oil).

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Or good old fashioned Johnson & Johnson's baby oil. It is mineral oil with light perfume, and has no health issues. Just ask your baby's bottom.

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Originally Posted by Longhaultanker

Or good old fashioned Johnson & Johnson's baby oil. It is mineral oil with light perfume, and has no health issues. Just ask your baby's bottom.

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Another, more traditional option is choji oil, which is one to two bottles of mineral oil and one small vial of clove oil. I use this on swords and knives, and I put one application on my razors before sending them out. I don't oil my personal carbon razors at all, though the tuff cloth looks like an interesting option to look into. That said, I live in the middle of the desert, so your mileage may vary.

CLP on a Q-tip or if you want something more "food grade", froglube wipes...

Well, you can also get food grade mineral oil in just about any pharmacy, where it is available as an intestinal lubricant.

I put a blue paper shop towel wadded into a wide mouth jar and then pour a little mineral oil onto that paper towel. After it has soaked in, I place another wadded paper towel into the jar over the first one. It wicks only a small amount of oil into the upper towel and that is the one that I use to wipe my blades. It applies only a very thin but effective layer of oil on the blade.

I just have plenty of CLP and 3-in1 oil hangin out lol....