Questions - after reading articles...

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02-07-2010, 09:42 PM
JohnG10

Questions - after reading articles...

I've read the FAQ & 1st Shave articles (etc, etc) - but still have questions...

It seems like the 5/8 size has more models to pick from - is there a reason that size seems to be more popular ? If I can keep the 5/8 flat when honing (I assume I can, I hone my wood carving knives all the time) should I still get a 6/8 as a first SR ? I have a small/medium sized faces, and am a bit concerned that the 6/8 might too large to get under the nose well (my hairs grow up to the base of the nasal divide, and my nose is flat on the bottom, not upturned). The main reason, I'm considering a SR though is to cut down on the razor burn I get from the "lift & cut" razors - so if 6/8 is easier to avoid burn, I'll put up with "awkward top lip" issues.

Also, the "full-hollow" grind seems to be more popular with "better" razors than 1/2 ground. My hairs probably are on the border between normal and coarse. Which do you think would helps me get less razor burn ? (I imagine the weight helps the 1/2 hollow, but the extra sharpness helps the full hollow. Which helps "more" ?) Do you have to be really careful when stropping a full hollow to not push & bend / fold the blade at the narrow point ?

In general, is the Dovo, Jaguar, TI, or Hart steels heat treats noticeably different ?

My neck hair lies flat to the skin, and points sideways. Will a square point (Hart) tend to jab into the soft underside of my jawline where it joins my neck a lot more than a round point ?

Is the pure, best or silver-tip badger brush the best for caked soap ?

Does a paddle strop work any worse for a SR than a hanging strop ? The paddle strop is always "taunt" so it would seem to be more fool-proof, but most SR strops are the hanging type. Is it just nastolgia - or another reason ?

Edit: Is the steel or heat treat noticeably better in the "middle-priced" Dovo's (etc) than the lower priced ones ? Example: Dovo "Best Quality" versus "Classic" versus "Silver Steel".

Thanks.
02-07-2010, 09:51 PM
BeBerlin

There is little difference between a 5/8 and a 6/8. If you can get a decent 6/8, I recommend you get it, as it's more fun (in my opinion). If not, it won't really matter. I would steer clear of 4/8 or 7/8 razors for now, though.

The grind doesn't really matter. If the razor is shave ready, it will cut any hair. Proper beard preparation with high quality (not necessarily high price, cf the reviews section) products plays a much more important role.

If you intend to use cake soap (which I personally wouldn't, I would go for one of the big English brands, or Edwin Jagger/Mühle), I would get a stiff brush. That needn't be a pure badger, but the stiff best badger brushes are usually more expensive. I got a best badger Mühle as my first brush, and I still like it.

A paddle strop will work well. I don't like their size, as do many others, but that's just a matter of experience. Personally, I would get a 3" wide hanging strop.

Good luck,
Robin
02-07-2010, 10:08 PM
thebigspendur

Historically 5/8s and full hollows are what were produced in the greatest quantity so that's why there are so many with the vintage and even most new production razors today are still following the same idea. The full hollows are the most modern grinds and the 5/8s is a good maneuvering and light razor.
02-07-2010, 10:15 PM
JimmyHAD

Welcome to SRP. I like all of the sizes but truth be told I probably like the 5/8 best. Just my personal preference. I like a hanging strop better than a paddle for daily use and a silver tip badger best. All of the above is a matter of personal preference and you won't know until you try. On the heat treat the razors you mentioned are all high quality and should be fine. If you're worried about the spike point go for the round. They don't look cool but they shave nicely. :gl:
02-07-2010, 11:01 PM
flylot

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG10

I have a small/medium sized faces, and am a bit concerned that the 6/8 might too large to get under the nose well (my hairs grow up to the base of the nasal divide, and my nose is flat on the bottom, not upturned).

Get the 5/8. Your first razor purchase is usually the most stressful when it come to decision making. Avoid the stress of doubt. Once you get more comfortable with shaving, you will branch out to different size razors, THAT is a near certainty! :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG10

Which do you think would helps me get less razor burn ?

I don't think this problem is a razor size problem but a shaving technique problem. I get razor burn from getting "heavy handed" with the razor instead of letting the razor do the work for you. I think others can (and hopefully will) confirm or deny this.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG10

Do you have to be really careful when stropping a full hollow to not push & bend / fold the blade at the narrow point ?

I couldn't imagine using so much force to bend a blade. However, I think that you can curl an edge just as easy on a 1/2 hollow than a full hollow with poor technique such as having way too much slack in the strop. (I could be wrong).

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG10

In general, is the Dovo, Jaguar, TI, or Hart steels heat treats noticeably different ?

Maybe, but does it matter? I think you are getting way to technical for your first blade. Each manufacturer has their own way of doing things, it's the result not the process that is important here. Sure, one manufacturer may have an easier to sharpen blade while the other has a blade that the edge stays sharp for a longer time, and (from what I have gathered from this forum), that variability is often found even within the same brand! The important thing to know is that Dovo, TI, Hart, Boker, Revisor, et al are good razors (it is after all a very competative market place).

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG10

Will a square point (Hart) tend to jab into the soft underside of my jawline where it joins my neck a lot more than a round point ?

I could say something cutesy like "not if you don't let it", but then I can almost wear a pierced earring now after my last shave....... so I just won't go there......

... and I won't talk about brushes either cuz that subject is now driving me crazy!:)

As far as strops, I recommend a nice hanging strop (I use paddles with diamond paste after honing). I would stress to learn to strop FIRST! Practice! Practice with a butter knife on a belt or buy Tony Miller's strop and get the extra practice strop. But get proficient before you put your nice new razor on that nice new strop! Or you will regret it!

.... don't ask me how I know......

Hope it helps.
02-07-2010, 11:32 PM
hi_bud_gl

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG10

I've read the FAQ & 1st Shave articles (etc, etc) - but still have questions...

It seems like the 5/8 size has more models to pick from - is there a reason that size seems to be more popular ?

Quote:

it is just comfortable size 5/8 or 6/8

If I can keep the 5/8 flat when honing (I assume I can, I hone my wood carving knives all the time) should I still get a 6/8 as a first SR ?

Quote:

Please I do have respect knife sharpeners but straight razor is different. don't hone first one send off someone who knows what is he doing.

I have a small/medium sized faces, and am a bit concerned that the 6/8 might too large to get under the nose well (my hairs grow up to the base of the nasal divide, and my nose is flat on the bottom, not upturned).

Quote:

There is 3/8 razor out there for shaving hard rich places

The main reason, I'm considering a SR though is to cut down on the razor burn I get from the "lift & cut" razors - so if 6/8 is easier to avoid burn, I'll put up with "awkward top lip" issues.

Quote:

This is wrong idea you have. Size of the blade has nothing to do with razor burn. sharpness of the blade ,preparation, and technique you are using is the reason for razor burn. 1 more please give time to your face a little. at first you will have razor burns

Also, the "full-hollow" grind seems to be more popular with "better" razors than 1/2 ground.

Quote:

Sorry it is personal preferences

My hairs probably are on the border between normal and coarse. Which do you think would helps me get less razor burn ? (I imagine the weight helps the 1/2 hollow, but the extra sharpness helps the full hollow. Which helps "more" ?) Do you have to be really careful when stropping a full hollow to not push & bend / fold the blade at the narrow point ?

Quote:

all above i think i answered already.stropping you need to be careful always not to use too much pressure

In general, is the Dovo, Jaguar, TI, or Hart steels heat treats noticeably different ?

My neck hair lies flat to the skin, and points sideways. Will a square point (Hart) tend to jab into the soft underside of my jawline where it joins my neck a lot more than a round point ?

Quote:

yes and no

Is the pure, best or silver-tip badger brush the best for caked soap ?

Quote:

Not really badger too soft for me example

Does a paddle strop work any worse for a SR than a hanging strop ? The paddle strop is always "taunt" so it would seem to be more fool-proof, but most SR strops are the hanging type. Is it just nastolgia - or another reason ?

Quote:

paddle strop is good if you are just starting for learning purposes

Edit: Is the steel or heat treat noticeably better in the "middle-priced" Dovo's (etc) than the lower priced ones ? Example: Dovo "Best Quality" versus "Classic" versus "Silver Steel".

Thanks.

good luck to you and ask questions if you have more.
02-08-2010, 04:22 AM
RobertH

Hey John,

I'm new to straight razor shaving myself, and as a recent starter I can say that I agree with the majority of the recommendations you see on this site for beginners.

You mentioned that you want a paddle strop, to take the tension of the hanging strop out of the stropping equation. I thought that too, and I'm still thinking that now, however I'm glad I got a cheaper strop from Ken Rup first. The first couple of times I stropped, even after watching Lynn's DVD and thinking I knew what I was doing I still took some big chunks out of the strop. It takes time to get the "muscle memory" built in to do things like always flip the blade over on the spine, to not pull the blade across the strop in a cutting motion, etc.. It would really suck to learn these lessons on a good quality strop or paddle strop.

I've read some posts that say the paddle strops have the opposite problem of leaving the strop too loose, like it's bad for their to be no give. I'm not experienced enough to comment on that.

Now that I don't knick my cheap strop anymore, I'm ready to start thinking about upgrading. Right now I'm torn between a really good hanging strop (either one of the straight razor designs ones, or a Tony Miller), or getting a 4 sided paddle strop.

Good luck,

Rob