Another Beginner Thread

Hi guys first post from a prospective buyer. I've done a lot of research, read the beginner faq and watched youtube stropping/honing/shaving videos. I'm planning on getting either a Dovo Tortoise.

I've read complaints about shave ready razors not being sharp enough. I'm not sure if this because new users are using bad technique or that dovo factory pre-sharpening is inconsistent or on the rough side.

1. Should I go with a retailer like Straight Razor Design that hones them or is that a marketing ploy? Do they really re-hone them?

2. Another related question is a leather strop all I need to get a new razor shave ready? Or should I get a paste and put it on the back canvas side? I'd like to avoid buying a stone and or ruining the edge. Even though part of the appeal to me was doing my own honing, I'd like to avoid problems and send it in for service for the first re hone after reading problems beginners have.

3. I understand many suggest getting a cheap practice strop but I want to get a discount by buying the strop/razor set at SRD (3" Latigo). Simplifying things by getting everything at one place. I'm going to take it slow for the first month to avoid nicking. I've practiced with a knife on a belt, its hard to believe this is such a problem.

4. Can anyone give an opinion on any of these retailers or one I didn't list? BTW, I'm leaning towards SRD
Straight Razor Design, Classic Shaving, Vintage Blades, Nashville Knife Shop, Knife Center, Royal Shave

Is it ok to talk about retailers without it conflicting with board sponsors/advertisers?

Welcome to SRP. I've bought quite a few razors from SRD and they have been honed to perfection. I wouldn't do paste on my daily strop. If you want to have a good alternative to a hone the SRD modular paddle is what I would get. You can use your daily strop as intended and then if you do need to touch up the razor you can use the modular paddle with one or another of it's options to attend to that. Just IMHO.:Take a look at the last couple of pages of this barber manual excerpt from the SRP Wiki help files here and follow their suggestions on stropping. :gl:

1. It's not a marketing ploy. The sharpest razors I own have been honed by Lynn. In fact, he's so sure that you'll like his honing that every razor comes with a free rehone.

2. Yep, a leather strop will keep you going for about a month and after that, you'll need a pasted strop...ie, a cheaper strop with chromium oxide on it and it will bring your edge right back.

3. I suggest getting a 3" latigo strop. Don't worry about it since the strop is modular and you can replace the leather for about $25. Your first strop WILL get destroyed in about six months, so count on that replacement leather as part of the purchase price later down the road.

4. Straight Razor Design, Classic Shaving, Vintage Blades are all well known and reputable dealers...I've not heard of the rest.

I think you have done well on your research, and are on the right track. The dovo you chose is a good starter. I would go with picking up the combo from SRD, or if you choose, VB and Classic are good sources too, just be sure to get add the pre-honing option.

That should keep you going for about a month, then look into pasted strop - either buying one like Jimmy mentioned or making one yourself.

It would probably be by your 3rd month that you will need a touch up honing, barring your rolling the edge stopping. In either case, SRD's free re-honing option will be handy then.

But by that time, it is more than likely that you will have acquired other razors. :)

Good luck and keep us posted.

Thx for all the replies I'm glad to hear the good things about SRD. I have read the wiki it was very helpful. Besides the strop I see I can either use a paddle or another strop with paste. How about getting a Naniwa 12k stone? Or is that more difficult to use?

If I go the 2nd strop w/paste route should I get a cheap Rup Philly strop for that purpose or is a paddle better?

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Originally Posted by Peterazor

Hi guys first post from a prospective buyer. I've done a lot of research, read the beginner faq and watched youtube stropping/honing/shaving videos. I'm planning on getting either a Dovo Tortoise.

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Welcome

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I've read complaints about shave ready razors not being sharp enough. I'm not sure if this because new users are using bad technique or that dovo factory pre-sharpening is inconsistent or on the rough side.

1. Should I go with a retailer like Straight Razor Design that hones them or is that a marketing ploy? Do they really re-hone them?

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Re #1, Yes like, No and Yes: It does help to have a practiced hand
inspect and hone a razor. Dovo factory edges are not
bad, quite good in fact. Still a good practiced hand can improve them.
Also I suspect that the vast majority of factory problems
while uncommon never leave the SRD shop. Honing is
a true value-add when done by a pro.

Quote:

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2. Another related question is a leather strop all I need to get a new razor shave ready? Or should I get a paste and put it on the back canvas side? I'd like to avoid buying a stone and or ruining the edge. Even though part of the appeal to me was doing my own honing, I'd like to avoid problems and send it in for service for the first re hone after reading problems beginners have.

3. I understand many suggest getting a cheap practice strop but I want to get a discount by buying the strop/razor set at SRD (3" Latigo). Simplifying things by getting everything at one place. I'm going to take it slow for the first month to avoid nicking. I've practiced with a knife on a belt, its hard to believe this is such a problem.

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Yes you need a strop. Other than the first couple shaves
you need to strop the razor before each shave.

If you ever saw the slice I put on my first strop in
the first week I owned it -- well -- a practice strop is good.

Speed is not needed. A light touch is.

A cheep strop no, inexpensive strop yes.

The canvas+leather pair is a classic... no need to
add gunk to the canvas.

A single vendor is an advantage.

Eventually you will need a maintenance hone
or a friend with one. But not for months.
You can do the math and decide when the
convenience of having a hone outweighs
the trouble of sending the razor out. Correctly
honing a razor is a practiced knack that comes hard
to some so plan on sending your razor out once in a while....

Quote:

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4. Can anyone give an opinion on any of these retailers or one I didn't list? BTW, I'm leaning towards SRD
Straight Razor Design, Classic Shaving, Vintage Blades, Nashville Knife Shop, Knife Center, Royal Shave

Is it ok to talk about retailers without it conflicting with board sponsors/advertisers?

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I have done business with some but not all of the above.
The sponsors of this forum that I have dealt with are quality
vendors.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peterazor

How about getting a Naniwa 12k stone? Or is that more difficult to use?

If I go the 2nd strop w/paste route should I get a cheap Rup Philly strop for that purpose or is a paddle better?

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Don't worry about honing right now, trust me, you're going to be way over your head for the first few weeks just figuring out what you're doing with the razor and strop. I've been honing for a couple months and it ain't that easy...it ain't sharpening knives, that's for sure.

IMHO, the filly strop makes a great pasted strop.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peterazor

How about getting a Naniwa 12k stone?

If I go the 2nd strop w/paste route should I get a cheap Rup Philly strop for that purpose or is a paddle better?

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Honing is a whole new world to learn. I'd suggest taking it slow and concentrating on technique and stropping for now.

Stropping on paste is easier since the motion is the same as stropping, a skill you will be learning already, and probably getting the hang of by the time you need to touch up on paste.

Between the pasted strops, I would start with a paddle because of the more stable, flat base. It is easier to screw up an edge on a pasted hanging strop.

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Originally Posted by RayG

Honing is a whole new world to learn. I'd suggest taking it slow and concentrating on technique and stropping for now.

Stropping on paste is easier since the motion is the same as stropping, a skill you will be learning already, and probably getting the hang of by the time you need to touch up on paste.

Between the pasted strops, I would start with a paddle because of the more stable, flat base. It is easier to screw up an edge on a pasted hanging strop.

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To save money could I get the paddle instead of the hanging strop

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Originally Posted by Peterazor

To save money could I get the paddle instead of the hanging strop

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IMO You're better off with a hanger for daily stropping. If you only get one get a hanger wherever you choose to get it from. Just IMHO.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peterazor

To save money could I get the paddle instead of the hanging strop

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The performance between the hanging and paddle strops will be identical...I suppose the greatest difference is tradition, although I've seen vintage paddles too. If you choose the paddle, you can use the premium leather for stropping and the other side for your paste.

I am with Jimmy. Learn to strop with a hanger. Of course you can strop on a paddle but it is much shorter and will need more laps, more flipping of the razor, more room for error.

I think of it this way: I strop 25 on linen, 50 on leather before each shave, and about 20 laps after to dry the edge. That is everyday. When I touch up, about 1 or at most two times a month (if I were to use only one razor), that would be only about 10-20 laps on a paddle.

If you want to save money, there are lots of options for pasting. Lots of guys get good results with getting a small packet of CrO powder in the classifieds and applying that on a smooth strip of balsa wood.

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Originally Posted by RayG

I am with Jimmy. Learn to strop with a hanger. Of course you can strop on a paddle but it is much shorter and will need more laps, more flipping of the razor, more room for error.

I think of it this way: I strop 25 on linen, 50 on leather before each shave, and about 20 laps after to dry the edge. That is everyday. When I touch up, about 1 or at most two times a month (if I were to use only one razor), that would be only about 10-20 laps on a paddle.

If you want to save money, there are lots of options for pasting. Lots of guys get good results with getting a small packet of CrO powder in the classifieds and applying that on a smooth strip of balsa wood.

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I noticed your from CT. Me too, where abouts? I'm in New Britain.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peterazor

Thx for all the replies I'm glad to hear the good things about SRD. I have read the wiki it was very helpful. Besides the strop I see I can either use a paddle or another strop with paste. How about getting a Naniwa 12k stone? Or is that more difficult to use?

If I go the 2nd strop w/paste route should I get a cheap Rup Philly strop for that purpose or is a paddle better?

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+1 on red96ta's comments.

There are two things going on. What your are missing
is the time and cost part of this step.

You have more time to address refreshing the blade on
a hone than you might think. No need to rush this.

A good Naniwa 12k costs about the price of four or five professional
honing services. This translates to about two years.... give or
take....

Also in my opinion a pasted hanging strop works after honing
a blade but not as well for refreshing a blade. For some a
paddle strop is a better solution for refreshing a blade after
a standard canvas+leather strop no longer does the job.

Since you have time watch the feedback on the new SRP
paddle strop design. It looks cool and apropos to your need.

I do not own a Naniwa 12k or the new SRP paddle strop
so I cannot personalty comment on them but I suspect
you are looking in the correct general direction.

another +1 to everyone that said hanging strop, also i would advice getting the 2 inch strop instead of the 3 when your a beginner. Yes u might be more likely to roll your edge , however i believe it really teaches you the x pattern properly, and you can take your time and learn it perfectly, then for luxury sake or whatever is more comfortable to u , can move on the 3 inch. just my .02 cents , but SRD is a great site as well as Vintage blades(lynn hones all there razors as well:) )

I placed my order today at SRD. In addition to the latigo strop set I bought the Filly Strop from RupRazor to practice on. Thanks again for all the helpful advice. I'll post to let you know how it all turns out. Feels like an exciting adventure, can't wait for it to arrive!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peterazor

I placed my order today at SRD. In addition to the latigo strop set I bought the Filly Strop from RupRazor to practice on. Thanks again for all the helpful advice. I'll post to let you know how it all turns out. Feels like an exciting adventure, can't wait for it to arrive!

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Good decision. After you get the stropping down with the Filly you can always use another medium on the top side. IIRC the back is already pasted with chrom -ox. So the Filly can become an occasional pasted strop and the SRD latigo your daily driver.

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Originally Posted by Peterazor

I noticed your from CT. Me too, where abouts? I'm in New Britain.

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Not to far away. I live along the shoreline, in Clinton. Any way I can help you out, just PM me, Peter.

Actually, when you're stuff comes in, you should come over for a beer. I'd be glad to show you how to use it.:)

Couple of questions concerning after a shave:

1. How do you dry it? I've heard you strop it but I've also read that you shouldn't strop after a shave.

2. Do you need to oil it? If so what type of oil and does the oil need to be remove before shaving again? I have Remington gun oil.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RayG

Not to far away. I live along the shoreline, in Clinton. Any way I can help you out, just PM me, Peter.

Actually, when you're stuff comes in, you should come over for a beer. I'd be glad to show you how to use it.:)

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Sound good I'll give you a shout when it's in.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peterazor

Hi guys first post from a prospective buyer. I've done a lot of research, read the beginner faq and watched youtube stropping/honing/shaving videos. I'm planning on getting either a Dovo Tortoise.

I've read complaints about shave ready razors not being sharp enough. I'm not sure if this because new users are using bad technique or that dovo factory pre-sharpening is inconsistent or on the rough side.

1. Should I go with a retailer like Straight Razor Design that hones them or is that a marketing ploy? Do they really re-hone them?

2. Another related question is a leather strop all I need to get a new razor shave ready? Or should I get a paste and put it on the back canvas side? I'd like to avoid buying a stone and or ruining the edge. Even though part of the appeal to me was doing my own honing, I'd like to avoid problems and send it in for service for the first re hone after reading problems beginners have.

3. I understand many suggest getting a cheap practice strop but I want to get a discount by buying the strop/razor set at SRD (3" Latigo). Simplifying things by getting everything at one place. I'm going to take it slow for the first month to avoid nicking. I've practiced with a knife on a belt, its hard to believe this is such a problem.

4. Can anyone give an opinion on any of these retailers or one I didn't list? BTW, I'm leaning towards SRD
Straight Razor Design, Classic Shaving, Vintage Blades, Nashville Knife Shop, Knife Center, Royal Shave

Is it ok to talk about retailers without it conflicting with board sponsors/advertisers?

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Peterazor,

First, welcome to SRP...I hope that your str8 razor shaving experience will be an enjoyable one.

In reference to your questions...First, it is the opinion of many here at SRP that factory sharpening of a str8 razor does not make it "shave ready." That is why they are professionally honed before being sold/shipped by several SRP vendors. Two SRP advertisers that I know of who sell professionally honed razors and I have purchased razors from are SRD and Vintage Blades. Both vendors employ the inimitable honing skills of SRP's founder Lynn Abrams. You can purchase a professionally honed razor from a vendor such as Nashville Knife Shop (also honed by Lynn), but you have to add an additional cost to the advertised retail price. I have no experience with Classic Shaving or Royal Shave so I cannot confirm that their str8 razors are professionally honed before shipping.

Second, you need more than just a strop to make a str8 razor shave ready. You need a wetstone such as a Norton or Naniwa. As a new str8 razor user, I would advise against getting any honing equipment at first. Nor would I purchase any stropping paste. You will have your hands quite full just learning the basics of stropping, beard prep, shaving, etc. If you purchase your razor already professionally honed, you shouldn't need to have it rehoned for 6-12 months anyway--unless your beard is as tough as barbed wire. SRD even gives you a certificate for one free honing after purchase. Honing is a skill separate from maintaining and/or aligning an already sharpened blade. Later, you can purchase a second strop which you can paste to lenghten the amount of time between honings of your razor.

Third, your idea of getting a combo set of razor and 3" strop is an excellent idea. That is what I did and was quite pleased with ther result.

Finally, I think you can talk about vendors as long as you don't begin talking about the prices of products. My word is not gospel on this, though. You may want to check the SRP FAQ about its policy on this.

Take care--and smooth shaving.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peterazor

Couple of question I just thought of concerning after a shave:

1. How do you dry it? I've heard you strop it but I've also read that you shouldn't strop after a shave.

2. Do you need to oil it? If so what type of oil and does the oil need to be remove before shaving again? I have Remington gun oil.

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1. Toilet paper. Always, always strop before and after each shave. Strop before to shape up your blade and then strop after you clean the blade off to get any residual water and bioburden off your edge.

2. Mineral oil costs what? $.0001 to oil a razor after each shave? It's cheap insurance if you ask me on a $100 razor. Other will say they don't oil until they take a blade out of rotation, but it's cheap, why not do it every day even if it's overkill?

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Originally Posted by red96ta

Mineral oil costs what? $.0001 to oil a razor after each shave? It's cheap insurance if you ask me on a $100 razor. Other will say they don't oil until they take a blade out of rotation, but it's cheap, why not do it every day even if it's overkill?

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I do that and go further by removing the razor from the bathroom and storing it with others in the bedroom. This bathroom is used by guests, and it can also get steamy during showering.