first shave...no good

Well, this morning I performed my first straight razor shave. I was expecting to be delighted with how easily the razor glided over the skin, leaving behind nothing but super-smoothness. But instead, I was somewhat disappointed. My new razor pulled the entire way down on both cheeks (WTG). I tried a bit near the chin but didn't have the gall to keep going and ended up finishing the shave with my mach3.

For those of you who have switched from safety razors, remember how it felt when it was getting time to change your blade? It didn't glide smoothly or cut well...it pulled. Well that's how the straight razor felt this morning. Pulling down my entire face and tearing (instead of shaving) the hair. It was horribly rough everywhere until I switched back to my m3, which allowed my to finish smooth & clean.

Now I know your first instinct is to tell me to sharpen/strop the razor. It must be dull, etc. BUT I purchased this blade not more than 1 week ago from hi_bud_gl and he said it was honed, stropped, and truly shave ready. Judging from the reputation he has on SRP, I am inclined to believe him.

Have I read the first shave wiki? Yes.
Have I watched videos of the straight razor shave? Yes.
Pulling my skin taught? Yes.

I use Proraso soap and an Omega boar's bristle brush. I know these are somewhat low quality compared to what some of you use, but I have used them for safety razor shaves and am able to work the soap into a nice foaming lather, that allows effortless gliding on my skin.

I'm trying to keep 15 degrees between the blade and the skin....What am I doing wrong?

First time shavers usually have issue with using the right angles which leads to pulling sensation. Another thing to consider, if I m reading your post right, you have never shaved with a straight before so you will have to give your face some time to get used to the blade.
Practice will improve your experience dramatically with time.

Sounds like my first shave.

if the razor truly is shave ready. then that leaves technique,
have a play you can`t expect to get it right first time, it took me a good week or so before i had my first "comfortable" shave and much longer to begin getting smooth.

try moving your angle out slightly for me its probbaly closer to 30 degrees that seems to work for my skin.

Hello, anjp:

Those first few shaves frequently are disappointing as one struggles to figure out to become familiar with the straight razor. You obviously have done your reading. Now comes the performance.

We can be certain your razor is sharp, especially if honed by an SRP pro. Also, we can assume your preparation is extensive and proper. Now the shave.

1. The angle varies, usually, up to about 30 degrees. That number is arbitrary. All the angle degrees are arbitrary. The degree changes depending on where you are on your face.
2. Keep your razor strokes short.
3. Keep the razor pressure light. Let the razor's weight be all the pressure you need.
4. Don't rest the razor on your face; keep it moving.
5. Watch your stretching.
6. Divide your face into geographical regions and maneuver the razor accordingly.
7. Whether using one hand or two, use a technique that feels most comfortable to you.
8. Throw the clock away.
9. Relax.
10. Focus.
11. Have patience. A little at a time.
12. Finally: you will get there, don't worry. Just be methodical and study your movements.

Keep us informed.

Regards,
Obie

you are doing everything right except last sentenced.your angle .try make short strokes and until you will find right angle.if my memory not misteken your blade sharpened without tape. This gives me idea you should increase angle.try it and see what happens.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by anjp

Well, this morning I performed my first straight razor shave. I was expecting to be delighted with how easily the razor glided over the skin, leaving behind nothing but super-smoothness. But instead, I was somewhat disappointed. My new razor pulled the entire way down on both cheeks (WTG). I tried a bit near the chin but didn't have the gall to keep going and ended up finishing the shave with my mach3.

For those of you who have switched from safety razors, remember how it felt when it was getting time to change your blade? It didn't glide smoothly or cut well...it pulled. Well that's how the straight razor felt this morning. Pulling down my entire face and tearing (instead of shaving) the hair. It was horribly rough everywhere until I switched back to my m3, which allowed my to finish smooth & clean.

Now I know your first instinct is to tell me to sharpen/strop the razor. It must be dull, etc. BUT I purchased this blade not more than 1 week ago from hi_bud_gl and he said it was honed, stropped, and truly shave ready. Judging from the reputation he has on SRP, I am inclined to believe him.

Have I read the first shave wiki? Yes.
Have I watched videos of the straight razor shave? Yes.
Pulling my skin taught? Yes.

I use Proraso soap and an Omega boar's bristle brush. I know these are somewhat low quality compared to what some of you use, but I have used them for safety razor shaves and am able to work the soap into a nice foaming lather, that allows effortless gliding on my skin.

I'm trying to keep 15 degrees between the blade and the skin....What am I doing wrong?

---

anjp,

Don't get discouraged. Your first shave is not always the best. Not only does your face have to adjust to the str8 razor, but you have to relearn how to shave (ie. proper blade angle, angle of whisker growth, etc.). Be patient and take it slow. After a couple of shaves on one side of your face only WTG, try shaving WTG as well as XTG. Then too, your blade angle may be too small. Try increasing it a bit, somewhere between 15 and 30 degrees.

You can also strop your razor more...I usually strop my razor 50 stroke on the fabric and 50 on the leather before shaving. What I would not do is hone it at this point. That's an entirely new and different skill that you don't need to try to learn this early in your str8 razor shaving experience.

BTW...There's nothing wrong with Proraso shave cream/soap and/or an Omega boar shaving brush. Many SRP members use them and get quality shaves with their str8 razors.

Take care--and smooth shaving.

This sounds very much like my first shave. The first thing I can say is it will come in time, enjoy the journey and take pleasure in small wins (sometimes I'm just happy to have had the confidence to shave with a straight). The angle for me was key. Be careful in going to steep as the razor will dig in. Keep with it and remember it is less about the end result, and more about the journey. Enjoy yourself and most importantly have fun! You'll get there, I'm still a newbie and know exactly what you are going through. Believe me, it only gets better. It just takes time.:beer1:

Sham knows how to hone a razor very well, so we know that's not the problem. Shaving with a straight razor is VERY hard, it takes skill and efforts to get a nice shave, unlike a safety razor which you can just swipe around on your face and get good results. Your stropping has to be correct or you can dull things pretty fast and then that can lead to more frustration. Make sure your stretching very tight on your skin, it's going to take a few months to learn what angles and directions to need to attack the hairs to get good results.

Learning to straight shave is like learning to play piano and read music notation, you can't do it in a few light swipes of your hand. It's going to take a while.

+1 to Obie

go through Obie's list.

-Also, beard types vary. A more coarse beard will defiantly give you a little more trouble.
-Short strokes. Don't try to clean your face with one swipe.
-Don't go over an area with no cream on it to many times
-learn sections at a time. Cheeks and sideburn area are an easy spot. Start there and increase your area as your skill increases.

When I started, I shaved only 3 times a week with a straight. I did this so my face can get used to a blade being dragged over it. I can now shave everyday with no problem.

Early days anjp: don't be disheartened. Every one of Obie's twelve points is a good one, especially the bit about getting rid of the clock. My guess is that everything will come right given practice and experimentation with your angle of attack. The payoff is well worth some perseverance.

ive been shaving a while now im a sort of advanced beginer and if i dont pay attention my great shaving razors can pull like im using a rusty breadkife to shave with what i do in that situation is lay the razor on the bit im shaving edge and spine resting on the skin then lift then spine a bit and start again

give it time iam sure your blade is sharp and you creame Proraso is a good one. it take a bit of time to get it all togeather. frist, face prep i found useing a bit of hair conditioner rubbed into your beard really helps. next is the lather, as i said proaso is good stuff and is very slick when made right. when you are shaveing the lather should rince off your blade instantly if you have a line of soap on you edge your lather is too dry and your razor will stick. the hardest thing to learn IMO is the touch, that is the pressure of the razor on your face. up to a point the lighter the better , you still must have frim control of the razor or she will bite you. get your sideburns down to a point where you can feel the difference between where you shaved with the straight and where you went to the m3 then move on to the more challanging parts of you face.this (straight razor shaveing ) is abought the journey slow down relax and enjoy it

Like some have said, it's a newbie thing. Many, including myself, were disappointed in our first shaves. The true cost of membership involves the expenditure of time and patience. Just keep after it and make some minor changes with each shave and after even your first week of straight shaving you'll notice marked improvement. You've moved from having a chaufer drive you around in a Hyundai (your mach3) to driving yourself around in a stick shift Lamborghini...it ain't easy.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by anjp

I'm trying to keep 15 degrees between the blade and the skin....What am I doing wrong?

---

Actually, this is a natural and very mature attitude you're taking. Increase your angle to what you BELIEVE to be 45 degrees on the skin. When I started, I thought I was using the proper 30 degree angle, but it's tough for me to get that angle while viewing through a mirror, but when I adjusted to what my mind say as 45 degrees, I was actually on my 30 degree angle...overnight my shaves improved ten-fold.

I'm also happy to see that you're taking responsibility for your learning curve rather than posting a 'this razor isn't shave ready' threads. when I started, I felt the same way that the razor wasn't shave ready when it actually was...after a week I had come to the realization that it was ME and not the razor. :)

just stay with it thats how i felt the first time...on the up side be happy you didnt paint your sink red

My first shave wasnt anything to write home about, it still isnt, but its getting better. There's no rush to get it right is there i still finish off with the old mach 3 i'm not ashamed to say so long as you keep trying and dont get discouraged there's nothing to worry about :)

ian

Hi, anjp;

My first shave was rather poor, and left me with a bad razor burn. However, I was just happy that I didn't nick or cut myself. I ended up reshaving with a disposable after my first half-dozen SR shaves. Sham did a great job honing my razor and it was very sharp, until I dulled it by cutting up my new strop with my newbie attempts at stropping!

Obie is right on with all of his advice (as usual!). Take your time, and just remember that you aren't going to be a pro at anything the first time you try.

BTW, get yourself an alum block if you don't already have one. It's magic on razor burn!

Good luck!

Larry

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cutalot

when you are shaveing the lather should rince off your blade instantly if you have a line of soap on you edge your lather is too dry and your razor will stick.

---

There's always so much to learn... Thanks, cutalot. I've been having an issue with this lately, and I've wondered why I've been nicking myself more often.

anjp,

You've done your homework and read up on the stuff newbies are always advised to read, so there isn't much if anything I can add to what the sages have written other than one thing that may get me shot: not all shave ready razors are shave ready for faces other than that of the shave readier (honer/tester). I have purchased a few razors which were "shave ready", but didn't shave my face easily or smoothly. I've also purchased razors (NOS stock in original packaging) which have shaved like a dream. There are, of course, a lot of factors here, but if you are already a wet shaver, most of the prep issues are something with which you are familiar and use before shaving. So it may be that the edge may need some customizing for your face and whiskers. :shrug:

:beer2:

Mind over mechanics: You threw your lawnmower away to cut grass with a scythe. You mind has to make up the unknown mechanics that it didn't know before, it does take practice there are a lot of factors involved I cant remember if anyone mentioned to keep you face lubricated other wise your blade has to go through that layer of dried soap. Just keep at it you'll be fine, soon you will notice the best shaves you've ever had.

Hi all,

A big thank you to everyone who replied to this thread and offered advice. Today was my 2nd shave and it did feel better. I tried playing with the blade angle and increasing it a bit did help. I found that closing my eyes for a few seconds and adjusting the angle to what "felt" right was often better than looking in the mirror. Also, as per your suggestions I found that shorter strokes helped quite a bit... I was trying long, smooth strokes because that's what I saw Lynn doing in one of his videos.

I think that with practice it will get better, and I'll keep at it!

BUT, it still feels very dry at times. I think that this dry-ness may contribute to the feeling of scraping rather than gliding. My lather feels GREAT when I run my fingers over the cheek and when I switch back to my safety razor it glides effortlessly over the face. But with the straight everything feels very dry. Is this normal?

I swear by my Proraso but I find it can be dry too. The solution for me was to only lather portions of my face as well as to have my face dripping wet before I lather each time. Stick with it youll get there.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MadButcher

I swear by my Proraso but I find it can be dry too. The solution for me was to only lather portions of my face as well as to have my face dripping wet before I lather each time. Stick with it youll get there.

---

I concur /w/ MadButcher!

Although new myself to str8's I agree that angle is crucial as well - depending on where you're at on "your mug" (mug=face). Take your time too! I didn't with an improperly sharpened razor (not your problem in this case though) and suffered for it by slicing myself. I also did NOT pick up the razor after the stroke. Two (2) BAD DECISIONS! :(

Always make your pass over a selected area then lift the razor off your face immediately after that pass and proceed to your next "section" (after rinsing and drying the blade of course) and continue.
As time goes by you WILL develop "expertise" in using it/them. That's at least my experience - and I'd hazard to guess everyone else' experience as well.

Good luck! No retreat - no surrender! Keep at it!! ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by anjp

Hi all,

A big thank you to everyone who replied to this thread and offered advice. Today was my 2nd shave and it did feel better. I tried playing with the blade angle and increasing it a bit did help. I found that closing my eyes for a few seconds and adjusting the angle to what "felt" right was often better than looking in the mirror. Also, as per your suggestions I found that shorter strokes helped quite a bit... I was trying long, smooth strokes because that's what I saw Lynn doing in one of his videos.

I think that with practice it will get better, and I'll keep at it!

BUT, it still feels very dry at times. I think that this dry-ness may contribute to the feeling of scraping rather than gliding. My lather feels GREAT when I run my fingers over the cheek and when I switch back to my safety razor it glides effortlessly over the face. But with the straight everything feels very dry. Is this normal?

---

I have the same problem you have with the "dryness" of the lather after the razor pass.

In the past month I've changed two things in my routine. The first is adding glycerin to non-glycerin based creams. I used Proraso the other day and found that adding two parts of glycerin to one part of Proraso did the trick for me. Proraso has glycerin in it, sixth on the ingredient list, but for ME I needed extra. Now I wouldn't trade my Proraso for a cream three times the price.

The second part of my routine that I had to change was to add pre-shave oil to the neck and jawbone for the XTG and ATG pass. The irritation for me is almost completely gone.

Something to remember about the disposables like the Mach 3.......the blades have a "ride suspension" type system. Where both ends of the blade are mounted to the cartridge, that part of the design gives some "flex" to the blades as it travels over the skin. The second part of the design is the fact that the razor itself is so thin that this also provides flex. What this accomplishes is giving an even shaving experience with light to medium pressure. With a straight razor, you control the entire experience so it is skill that gives the shave.

The straight razor makes better contact with the skin and will remove more moisture on the pass because of the amount of pressure you provide and lack of a suspension. Think of a windshield wiper as it passes over a windshield during a rain storm......that's a type of suspension system in and of itself. If you lift a wiper arm up you will feel a lot of pressure. The disposable with the suspension doesn't make the same type of contact as a straight because the blade lifts a little when it touches the skin and therefore does not give the same shave as a straight (can't wait to hear the arguments about how wrong someone will tell me I am! :rofl2:). So, whenever I do have to torture myself with a disposable shave, my face feels a little slicker after a pass, there's a little more moisture but the shave itself is not nearly as close.

Your pre-shave preparation may have to change a little. Maybe try adding a little water to your mix or adding a couple of swabs of shaving soap and a little glycerin. Straight shaves are a discovery process. Always start slow.

You've only had two shaves. My first two straight shaves weren't anything to rave about, but they were ok. After over a year.......can't be beat! You will get better, I promise. Straight shaving has become one of my favorite hobbies. You will refine the process and find what works best for you. Remember, everyone's skin is different so what works for me might not work for you. But you will find your Zen.......and you will find this site is one of the best resources IN THE WORLD. BAR NONE!

Good luck and welcome to SRP! Never be afraid to ask questions. There are so many here that will help and give GREAT advice.

I feel the same way that the blade doesn't cut like butter. I attribute that to my beard hair as being tougher than normal. I find more hair growth harder to shave, ie shaving every day is easier than every 3-4 days.

Like others said 30 degrees is the proper angle. You can also try washing your facial hair longer in the shower to soften it more.

yea it is also much easier for me to shave every day than skip a few days and then try to shave what was once 15-20 min of relaxation turns into 45 min of PITA

Thanks again to all who are offering advice. I'll keep making small adjustments each day until I have the winning formula. I'll keep you all in the know...

Also, I want to clarify what I said in my 1st post in this thread.... I mentioned that this razor was purchased from hi_bud_gl. It sort of sounded like I was blaming the razor and was unhappy with the purchase. On the contrary, I am completely satisfied with this blade and the fact that it comes shave-ready from hi_bud_gl only serves to reinforce that it must be my technique which needs improving (and not the razor). Please accept this clarification as I don't want to unintentionally soil his name. He's the tops :-)

Treat this as a hobby mate.

Just play around with different prep techniques, and different razor angles, skin stretching and shave directions untill your consistently getting a result you want and are enjoying it.

it took me a couple of weeks to get some where near, and i`m still learning,
but keep it up and play around, have fun with it.

Basically there are four elements of a great shave:

- A shave ready razor (If its come from Sham it will be!)
- Good stropping
- Good lather and face prep
- Good shaving technique

You need to get all of these elements to have a good shave. So if your lather wasnt quite up to snuff, you'll have a bad shave. If you hadnt softened the beard hairs with a shower or hot towel, you may get a bad shave. If you rolled your edge when you were stropping, the razor wont shave.

Concentrate on getting all of these elements right and you'll get the shave of your dreams..! And dont be surprised if it takes you a little time to get it right. Like all new skills, it takes a little time to get right.

Good luck and keep us posted.

I'm not sure about the dryness. You could try making a slightly
moister lather and see how that feels.

My first shave was exciting, but the result certainly wasn't a
great shave. One of the best parts about straight razor shaving
is the process of incremental improvements as you practice
and learn. It's extremely rewarding, so just be patient and
enjoy :)

:gl:

- Scott

hi all,

An update... today was my 3rd time using the straight razor and I have good news and bad news.

The good news is that there is no more pulling or dryness. I've made my lather just a bit more "watery" and re applied when I felt it drying and the result has been good. I've also played with my angles a bit more and this seems to have helped the feeling of pulled hair (it's lessening).

The bad news is that, with the above going so well, I decided to be a bit more adventurous and moved to my upper lip, chin, and neck. Upper lip was OK, but the sides of the lip, chin, and especially neck proved very difficult. I now have a bleeding ear and numerous small cuts around my chin and jawline lol. Ah well..

After my shave was done I felt a pretty good burning sensation all over. I'm thinking it could have been caused by 3 things:
1 - numerous cuts and nicks all over (I've never nicked myself this badly before with a safety)
2 - improper stropping (i.e. blade could be a bit dull and is burning skin)
3 - too much pressure on blade (this burning skin).

I suppose any one of (or a combination of) these could cause the burn. Any comments?

Please check this videos first 56 seconds.
File:Stropping.AVI - Straight Razor Place Wiki

rest is not for you yet.
pay attention to persons thumb and how he turns blade. wrist is stable.
make 50/50 linen and leather then go head shave again.
i would give to your face 2 days rest let it rest a little ok.
then shave see what happens. thank you for updates.
gl

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by anjp

hi all,
I suppose any one of (or a combination of) these could cause the burn. Any comments?

---

Hang in there. It will come together faster than you might expect. As a newbie, i can tell you that each time you shave it will get a LOT better. You might want to just shave the 'easy' parts of your face with your straight razor until you get practice and you feel comfortable holding it and moving it around your face.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by anjp

Upper lip was OK, but the sides of the lip, chin, and especially neck proved very difficult. I now have a bleeding ear and numerous small cuts around my chin and jawline lol. Ah well..

After my shave was done I felt a pretty good burning sensation all over. I'm thinking it could have been caused by 3 things:
1 - numerous cuts and nicks all over (I've never nicked myself this badly before with a safety)
2 - improper stropping (i.e. blade could be a bit dull and is burning skin)
3 - too much pressure on blade (this burning skin).

I suppose any one of (or a combination of) these could cause the burn. Any comments?

---

Here are some tips and comments:
1. the neck in my opinion is one of the most difficult areas because it is not flat and the skin/hair follicles are the most sensitive. btw, don't attempt against the grain up strokes.

2. the jaw area can be accessed easier by pulling the skin up so you are shaving it on the lower cheek instead of trying to round the curve. when you release the skin you'll see that you've shave most of the jaw line curve.

3. the burning sensation is due to shaving off the upper skin layer. this can be the result of too much angle, too much pressure, going over the same area too many times, or you skin isn't used to it yet. like someone said take a day off to let your face recover. skin burn is useful feedback to let you know which areas you need to pay closer attention to.

4. you can use only part of the blade. if you for example drag the length of the blade across the cheek, high places will get cut too close resulting in discomfort. I like to use quarter to half of the blade on the tip end. I also shave from back to front. That way I can concentrate on side burn/ear area then move forward to avoid cutting the ear. This is why French tip (rounded point) razors are popular, especially for beginners. Its a common problem for beginners not to be conscience of the entire length of the blade.

A couple people have offered to critique my stropping technique via skype but since I don't have a webcam, I'm uploading a short video of my stropping to youtube.... Man, is it difficult to video yourself stropping!

I've started a new thread for this specific topic in the Stropping forum and have linked it below. Please feel free to add and constructive criticism to this thread or the other.... I will monitor both.

www.straightrazorplace.com/forums/stropping/52140-critique-my-stropping.html

Another shave this morning....I still feel like the razor is "pulling" across the face & whiskers. Not sure if this is a normal feeling, a result of poor stropping/something else, or if it is normal. Now I look forward to the touch-ups afterwards with my mach3 because it glides across the skin nice and smooth lol.

I'm not giving up, just a bit frustrated. I'm sure more practice will improve me.

My dear anjp:

Take a breath and step back a bit. You're doing fine. As in the initial stages of learning any craft, frustration is to be expected. Don't let it throw you.

Go back to the Wiki for research and videos. Re-examine your stropping. Study your razor technique, pressure, angle and stretching. Re-examine your preparation.

Stay with it. Before you know it you'll be there. I can assure you, the mastery of the straight razor is worth the effort. You're almost there.

Regards,
Obie

I know how you feel - this pretty much describes my first couple of shaves with a straight. I found that taking short, confident strokes fixed the problem for me, which led me to believe that I was being a little bit too (understandably) careful to begin with. As many posters have already indicated, if you keep at it you'll be throwing down supreme shaves in no time!

A fair amount of you read my frustration so it's only fair to post some good news! The shaving is starting to feel better. Whiskers not pulling nearly as badly as they were at first.... seems to be the product of the right amount of pressure combined with the right angle. I've made it my short-term policy to only shave WTG and this seems to have helped. However, this policy leaves me a bit stubbly at the end (I feel that I really need an ATG pass to clear this up).

What's the consensus on here... does everyone do ATG to get rid of final stubble or are there men out there who are fine with WTG? I want to have a shave so smooth that a drill sergeant would give me a pat on the back...

Feeling better about this and will continue to practice.

Try to do WTG AND XTG. please forget about ATG . You can do that later.
let your face get used to your straight razor too.
gl

Just watched your stroping video and technique looks ok, but i noticed you only were getting the last inch or so at the toe about 10 % of the time. You seem to be going straight up and down, try the X stroke while stroping. Hope this helps and keep it up you'll be doing fine in no time.:gl: