Oil to protect my blade

I've quickly learned this forum is a great place to get quick responses!

I've ordered my "kit" and am waiting to get started. I am realizing that I don't have any oil to put on the blade to keep the carbon from rusting and have seen that as a suggestion in several places. If I ordered the Musgo shave oil, can I use that, or do I need a specific type of oil? I'm guessing the Musgo will not do.

Also, though not related to the threat title here, is there a wrong way to wipe my blade to remove hairs and soap? I've seen people rinse, wipe on a sponge and wipe on a cloth off camera. I just don't want to wipe the blade the wrong way and do something unknowingly to my edge. Wipe sideways? Wipe from the spine down toward the edge?

Thanks, guys.

-Stub

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Stubear

I've also used WD40 in the past which works very well, and there are people here who use gun oils with good results as well.

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+1 on this. I use RP7.. pretty much the same as WD40.. smells nice, disperses water and has the added bonus of being sort of spray on/aerosoley/easy.

I wish you great shaves:tu

Cheers

Mykel

I've only been SR shaving for a little over a month, but I've been using vegetable oil without any obvious problems (so far).

I've seen olive oil recommended on these forums:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...tml#post517150

And I've also seen folk warn against it:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/gener...ust-razor.html

My best guess is that it's probably ok, so long as you keep shaving with that blade every day (or every couple of days), so you're always washing the oil off and replacing it before it goes off.

If it does turn out to ruin my razor, I guess I'll come back and let y'all know :)

Plain old mineral oil is probably the best to use for blade protection (assuming you use any at all, I don't). The easiest to find is baby oil, and it is just fine. You can also use food grade white oil (which is often sold at as honing oil at knife shops).

Vegetable oils, including most preshave oils, are actually slightly acidic and will promote oxidation of the blade. FYI, the chamillia oils typically sold as knife/sword protective oils are usually mosty mineral oil. Pure chamillia oil is a relatively strong acid and will turn you blade dark.

+1 on pure mineral oil. You can buy it cheap at drugstores..

I use Ballistol, which is a German gun oil, but available over here. It's sort of expensive, but I think it may penetrate the pivot and jimps better than plain mineral oil (which is the main ingredient of Ballistol), and it is safe-the OSHA MSDS comes with it. Just search "Ballistol" on the internet, if you are interested.

Hello, Stubbles:

I use camillia oil and it has worked perfectly well for me for the past few years. I bought a small bottle from Straight Razor Designs and figure it will last me for the next few years. Good stuff.

Regards,
Obie

Stubbles,

Here's how I finish my razor when I'm done.
I first rinse my blade clean with hot water. Wipe the blade from tang to toe with a dry towel, lengthwise, spine towards the towel, then I wipe off the scales. The blade is warm and it dries off better when it's warm. Then I take 3 leafs of toilet paper, double them over and pull them through the middle of the scales to dry off any water in between. I then put a film of mineral oil on the blade and put it away.

Marc

Another vote for Ballistol

Semper Circa,
LG Roy

+1 on Mineral Oil.....Mineral oil is also often used as a coating on metal tools and weapons, knives in particular, as a way to inhibit oxidation

It sounds like camellia oil or mineral oil will do. Thanks to all for your input!

-Stub

Just a question, I have been using the Japanese camellia oil very sparingly
on all my straight razors. But, I use "Tuf-Cloth Multi-Purpose Dry Protectant" on my hunting knives and some of my shotguns has anyone had experience with this product on a straight razor blade could it cause issues since it is more than just an oil? Thanks for any help.
Bob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lz6

Just a question, I have been using the Japanese camellia oil very sparingly
on all my straight razors. But, I use "Tuf-Cloth Multi-Purpose Dry Protectant" on my hunting knives and some of my shotguns has anyone had experience with this product on a straight razor blade could it cause issues since it is more than just an oil? Thanks for any help.
Bob

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At one level a razor is steel. If you get good
results on your hunting knife steel you can
expect to get a good result on a steel razor.

They state that it is non toxic once dry which is
a good thing.

Since you have camellia oil are you thinking of switching?

Note that stropping and honing will remove the thin
protective layer so a lite application of either
after honing or stropping will still be needed.

Tuf-Cloth seems to be a natural for those that
take days to hand sand and polish a blade.

Thanks Tom. I was just interested in finding out if there might be some advantage to dry protectant for some reason over the normally used oils.
I will stick with the Japanese oil I use because it is tried and true. This dry protectant seems to take things to a whole new level of chemistry which is what got me curious about it and possible interactions with basic steel razor blade.

++++1 on the advice on what type of oil ought to be used to lubricate your razor. Camelia, or mineral oil will do the job. I use Camelia oil most of the time.. Don't use too much though.

I also occasionally apply some "Tuff-Glide" to my razor at the point where the blade pivots in the scales. Again, a little goes a long way.

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Originally Posted by Stubear

The tissue wont damage the edge, just make sure you dont slice yourself when you clean it.

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Sorta true... Unless you regularly drag the edge thru tissue. Plant fibres can actually have quite a dulling effect on edges.

tnx for asking this question. i love SRP. i learn new thigns everytime i come on to read threads. when i think up a question, about to ask it, look aroudn a bit before hand i ALWAYS find it with plenty of good answers alreay. THANK YOU FOR THIS SITE!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Doop

I then put a film of mineral oil on the blade and put it away.

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Marc,
When you say a "film," do you mean you put on just a drop then make sure it's spread across the blade?

Also, what about in the joints and on the "jimp"? Do you do anything about oiling those?

lz6,

I have used TufGlide/TufCloth on all my razors (carbon & stainless) for the last 18 months with superb results :)

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ

I am a mineral oil kind of guy...it's easy to apply and it protects the blade nicely. You won't go wrong.

Make sure whatever you choose, you don't go for olive oil or anything similar...they go rancid very quickly and in fact, promote oxidation...You want something inert

-Robert

All of the oils mentioned work, they just have different consistencies. I currently use medical grade mineral oil. IMO, paying close attention to clean up is more important than the type of oil. I don't think non medical oils are dangerous because stropping before shaving removes oils off the edge. The thing to be aware of with WD40 is most of it evaporates off shortly after spraying, leaving a very thin layer of oil that would only be good for a short time. Thicker oils such as mineral are better for longer term storage.

Make sure the blade is dry before applying oil. Your fingers should be dry too if you're using them to apply the oil. Otherwise the water droplets could get trapped between the blade and oil, causing water spots. I had a problem with water spots the first time I got my SR. After I had them buffed out (thx to Lynn) I paid closer attention not to leave water on the blade too long while shaving, wiping it clean every few passes and keeping the inside of the scales dry. Also remember to strop after shaving otherwise wet shaving clippings can stick to the edge, causing water spots. One last thing don't store your SR in the bathroom.

Great question, Thanks

Ballistol will eat through any soft metal like gold plating. Follow this url for more info. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3O-cpOgvbfw