Pimples irritation and razor burn. Technique? Blades? Soap/Aftershave?

I've just recently entered the exciting world of shaving with straights. More accurately, I've been using a shavette type holder with disposable blades. I've been at it, using the straight every two or three days and I've gotten pretty good with it. When shaving, I can now manage to get through without any nicks, and usually without any weepers. However, I'm still having some problems.

When shaving using my straight, I have been going in two passes, WTG and XTG/ATG depending on what part of my face I'm on. Like I said, I can generally make it through with no problems, but in certain spots, all within half an inch of my lips, it'll feel like razor burn when I'm done.

The reason I only shave every third day or so, is because if I go more often than that, these razor burn areas turn into very small whitehead pimples. I was horrified to get up this morning and see about 9 of them very small and clustered together near my upper right lip, and my last shave was on Saturday morning. I'd like to keep at it with the straight so as to improve my technique and eventually restore and use my great grandfathers razor, but I cant show up to work with worse skin than I had in highschool.

There are so many variables to straight shaving that have changed since the recent days of the mach 3, that I can't be certain which is causing the irritation. I'm currently using a straight blade holder from Parker Safety Razor with "Shark Super Stainless" blades, I've tried both reusing the blades 2 to 3 times, and using a new blade for each shave. I use a badger brush from Parker with Col Conk old bay rum soap. I use some sort of Gillette branded aftershave, but have also tried (in efforts of mitigating this problem) Calvin Klein "Escape" scented aftershave.

I’m wondering which of these possible variables it could be that’s causing this to happen. As a reference, before getting into shaving with this “straight” I was using a mach 3 daily and I didn’t even bother with shaving cream or gel, I simply splashed some water on my face and started shaving, I also didn’t bother with aftershave unless I had a hot date with the wife. All of this and I rarely if ever had normal razor burn.

Has anyone else ever had this occur? If so, what was it that caused the problem? I’m wondering if it’s the soap, as I’ve heard some people have issues with glycerine. I’m also wondering if perhaps it’s the blades. I’ve heard that disposable blades on straights are much sharper than a properly honed true straight, but would that cause anything like this? It could obviously, my being a novice (about a month in) be my technique, but I’m making an almost obsessive effort to follow the advice on these forums, making sure not to press in with the blade, to follow proper angles, and to follow proper pre and post shave treatments, along with the fact that I can achieve BBS on certain parts of my face with no discomfort at all during or after the shave.

I know this post has been long, but I’m really concerned about this. I’d really rather not have to give up on straights, its something I’ve become very enthusiastic about (I even combed some antique shops in NYC during my lunch and bought a 6/8 full hollow ground from “Thistle Cut Co”), but I really can’t keep doing it if it’s going to make me look like a greasy teenager. Any help or advice would be deeply appreciated.

Hey Dinerroll,

May I suggest that this is likely due combinations of your shaving soap, aftershave and sensitive skin areas. You may have to switch it up until you find an optimum, less oily substitute. Scrubbing your face in a pre-shave shower also helps.

good question! :y

pimples are a small infections right? or a small gland that is full of goo?
Maybe it's a hygienic issue with the blade, towel or hands.

It bothers me sometimes too, mostly in the neck.
I'll try to continue this train of thought (infection) after work hours, in the meantime, feel free to chip in. I'd like to solve this too.

Hi,
I've experienced exactly what you are talking about, and it was my technique. Too much pressure. As I learned to lighten up, that problem faded.
My upper lip was a bad area, because I wanted BBS there, and my chin is still showing a bit of razor rash, mostly because i tend to make too many passes in that area.
Hang in there; you've chosen a very unforgiving shaving system, and it'll take a while to get it just right. FWIW, I've got a shavette, it sits unused because of that reason.
One thing that worked for me was to "cork" my blades before shaving with them. It seemed to smooth them out just a tiny bit, though it reduced the number of shaves I got from a blade.
Good luck, and remember, your shaves WILL improve!

Thanks for both of your replies. As i said in the OP, I'm pretty religious about prep, so I've always done the pre-shave shower. As for hygenics, I don't think it would be the blade, because I'm using a new disposable SE blade every time, and I don't have any problems when I use a cartridge with barbasol canned goop which would rule out the towel.

This morning I shaved with an old mach 3 cartridge (probably 4 uses in or so) barbasol, and the "Escape" aftershave (basically alcohol and fragrance). With stretching and two passes (everywhere but the affected areas by the lips) I was able to achieve BBS with it, and I have no irritation whatsoever. I'm going to wait a few days and probably try Thursday morning again with the straight.

As I can only change one variable at a time to see what's doing it, I'm going to switch out the barbasol for the soap and keep at it with the Mach 3, as with there I don't have to worry nearly as much about technique. I'll keep you guys posted and I'd appreciate any additional insight from you two and any additional posters.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wdwrx

FWIW, I've got a shavette, it sits unused because of that reason.
One thing that worked for me was to "cork" my blades before shaving with them. It seemed to smooth them out just a tiny bit, though it reduced the number of shaves I got from a blade.

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wdwrx, thanks for your comments, they're very intriguing. I was busy crafting my earlier reply when you posted. I had two questions for you. First, what do you mean by corking the blade? And second, would you mind elaborating on that comment about your shavette? Is the shavette the unforgiving shaving system or is it straight razor shaving in general?

Hi,
The whole shavette thing is generally considered unforgiving. Straight razors tend to be a little more forgiving of poor technique. Most Barbers use this style of shaver on other people though, so it can't be that hard to figure out, it certainly defeated me though.

As for corking, just draw the blade edgewise through a piece of cork (real cork, not the new plastic corks) just enough to bury the very edge. There may or may not be any benefit to this.... reviews are mixed. It may help to smooth out the very edge of the blade, it may also slightly dull it and remove the protective coatings on the blade... worth a try though. If it doesn't feel smoother, or starts to pull, don't bother.

If you do have a real straight, send it out to be honed and try it. I found that there is no comparison to the quality of shaves.

Now that I've become fairly good with my straights, I keep intending to try my shavette again, but somehow I just can't be bothered.....

Avoid oil containing moisturizers, as balm, ointments, etc. on your face and the whiteheads will improve.

1066,

The lesions you describe are an inflammatory process caused by one or more of the following:

*Mechanical irritation caused by the blade or a hair follicle 'pricking' as it grows back through the skin.

*Chemical irritation from soaps, oils, and aftershaves.

*An immunological reaction to chemicals (see above)

*Primary bacterial infection or secondary infection caused by inflammation described above.

Solution?

*Prep technique: Avoid extremes in water temperature and scrubbing the face.

*Shaving technique: Shave with the grain. Use less pressure and avoid multiple passes. A sharp edge will make this easier.

*Chemicals: Use a hypoallergenic shaving soap sparingly and rinse thoroughly. Avoid the temptation to put anything else on the face except water. Consider showering after shaving.

As always, consider seeking medical advice if the problem continues.

LG Roy (Not a doctor but I work with the insufferable bastiges everyday.)

I think all of the possible solutions have been mentioned. I too use a Parker razor with Feather blades exclusively. I had a similar problem but not to your extreme, I found that a cold water shave cured it for me. I think it has to do with closing the pores before shaving instead of hot water opening them up.
Just my experience but give it a try and let me know.

:soapbox: