Originally Posted by
Obie
Hello, MLarge:
Welcome to Straight Razor Place.
Allow me to add a few more thoughts to the fine advice these gentlemen have given you.
I counted the passes you have mentioned and they add up to five. That might be an excessive number of passes for your skin and type of razor. Those Shavettes are sharp and have no mercy on the skin, especially if it might be as sensitive, and untrained for the straight razor, as yours.
I dare say too much pressure with the razor also could beat up your skin. In the beginning, sometimes we don't realize just how much pressure we're using with the razor. Your pressure should be as light as possible. No pressure. Let the weight of the razor be enough, although those Shavettes are extremely light and that sometimes fools the shaver into adding more pressure.
The general rule for razor angle is 30 degrees. General, I said. The angle varies in the different regions of the face. From what I can determine, in places I use about a 20-degree angle. The mustache, chin and neck areas are trouble spots and shaving them requires a variety of angles. Here is where you must experiment, always keeping in my the "general" starting line of 30 degrees and varying the angle to suit the area.
I suggest a better soap. Try Mama Bear, Mitchell's Wool Fat, Tabac, Provence Sante Verlaine, L'Occitane, Institute Karite, Pre de Provence, SRD, Trumper, Truefitt & Hill, Taylor of Old Bond Street. Lather, no matter the soap, must be rich and provide a good cushion and glide. This is extremely important. Obviously the better soaps will give you better lather when done properly. You also might want to use a pre-shave product. I use John Allen's Slick Water and love it. Other gentlemen here have their own favorites.
The left hand will take time to train. Practice by taping two dull butter knives in the shape of an open razor. Start using your left hand for other activities: opening doors, brushing your teeth, and so on. Keep working on the left hand.
For now, until you find your way around with the straight razor using both hands, make two passes with the grain and stop. Forget BBS; that will come in time. Stay away especially from against-the-grain passes for now. You also have the option of using only one hand. I recommend two hands, but realize there is no set rule on this and each gentleman develops his own technique.
Finally, I suggest acquiring a real, shave-ready, straight razor and a strop. You can find a good and relatively inexpensive setup in the Classifieds or through one of the vendors advertising here. With some training you will realize the difference between a real razor and a Shavette. Good luck. Anymore questions, please post them.
Regards,
Obie