Shavette vs Fontana 7/8 Straight Razor

Hello all my name is Ralph and I am postig from Italy. I have a question for you Sirs (I try to be very concise).

I have been shaving for several years using a shavette straight razor; I don't have any problem and I just love it.

Some months ago I decided to try to use a 7/8 Fontana straight razor which my father bought in the 70'/80'. He didn't use it so much so it is in very good condition. So I bought a norton 4000/8000 stone and some strops (a dovo hanging strop and a streich-riemen doublesided handheld strop).

I also have a microscope to have a look at the blade !

Anyway I spent some time reading all about stoning, sharping (thanks a lot for your posts!!!) and I finally got an honed razor.

My problem is : I use to shave every morning so I need a very honed razor. Using a shavette I put a new half blade every morning in it and shavette blades are very well honed of course. When I use my Fontana straight razor I need to strop it 2/3 times during the shaving process and I never have that feeling I have using my shavette razor. It does not cut as I want!

So here is the question : is it possible to hand hone a straight razor like a shavette blade? I think they use a laser honing machine or something like that to hone shavette blades!

Before I buy a new razor or some other stones could you give me your opinions, please.

Thank you in advance.

Hi Ralph and welcome to SRP I took the same route as you starting with a shavette and then switiching to a tradional straight razor. First if I understand what you said right it sounds like you honed your own razor which is a very good method but if your concerened you arn't getting it right you may want to find a honemiester on here and send it out to be honed by them to see if you can tell any difference.

Now with that said I have to say that I have found that the shavette and tradional wet shaving are to very different branchs of the same tree. They have the same basic ideas behind them and even the basic techniques of each are the same but to get that great shave you are looking for you need to adjust your technique to each. Some people can and some people can't. Me I have been using my SR now for about 6 months and I am now getting shaves equal and better then what I was getting with my shavette. I still get great shaves from my shavette and quicker than SR. The main thing is to pratice and adjust to the tool in your hand. You will probally get frustrated because you will know you can get a better shave from your shavette for awile but if you stick with the SR you will get to the point where you can get a great shave with ethier one.

Some differences I have found in SR and Shavettes:

Shavettes: 1. Tend to have sharper blades each time but are harsh on the skin
2. Shavette tend to be lighter in the hand than SR's
3. Shavettes are less forgiving
4 Needs a lighter touch
5. A smaller angle can be used (5-10 degrees)
6. Takes less time start to finsh to actually complete shave

SR: 1 Slightly less sharp but doesn't irratate skin to much (unless you do excessive passes.)
2 Have more wieght causeing you to add to much pressure to start then to little.
3. Prep is far more important
4 Stroping adds time to shave but needs to be done properly to get a great shave
5 Angel needs to be near 20-30 for a great shave. Some times higher for tough areas.
6 Blade tends to be longer and thicker causing you to find new ways of shaving a area.
7. SR are more tempermental if you do not take proper care of them you will not get a great shave out of them.


Those are the main differences that I can think of at the moment. I know I went slighty away from what you asked but I think technique is the real problem for you at the moment not the blades sharpness.

Hello Castel33 Thank you for your reply.

Well I am thinking to buy a nice razor from a factory here in Italy. I am sure It will be very very well stoned (but if it is not I don't care because I am just happy to buy it !).

I agree about differences in SR and Shavette but I am not sure about the different technique. I mean a honed blade is a good blade and if you know how to use it you will have a very good shave (even if you use one of the Gillette plastic toy they sell). This is just my experience of course.

The main point here is shaving "every day" and close as I love. What I mean is if I use my SR on a 3/4 day beard, it is just perfect. It cuts everything and very close and fast. Every day shaving needs something more and I can't find it when I use my SR.

I am 99% sure that the honing process I use is not so bed because the razor pass all the tests (but the every day shaving test!).

BUT if you tell me that you shave every day using a SR I have to belive that there is something wrong in my honing process or in my razor quality (it is a "GARANTIERT Ia.BOHLER STAHL" 25 7/8 Fontana made in Soligen Germany)

Right now I am shaving every day with a SR with good results. I am not familiar with your razor but I only have used a couple different ones others on here would know better but old razors from that part of Germany are suppose to be very good.

Just to add to the discussion, I use stones that will smooth the cutting edge and add just a bit of sharpness. Using Naniwa Super stones in the following grits has worked for me 1000/5000/8000/12000 followed by stropping has given me the best shaves. If you originally used only the 4000/8000 grit Norton, you may not have a properly set bevel and your shaves will suffer. Setting a bevel on a straight razor can be tough when you first start sharpening. Strongly suggest you have your blade professionally sharpened to see if that will help your results.

Hi RRalph, and welcome to the "real" straights!

I used feather disposable straight blades for about 10 years, before moving on to the real straight razors, and I must say, it made the transition very easy.

You're past the difficult stages of learning how to shave your face with a straight razor, now you just have to adjust your technique slightly with the real straight. I do agree that you should try and get a "shave ready" razor, and only strop it so you can compare it to your own honing.

Even the professionally honed blades on real straight razors don't quite feel as sharp as the disposables, but trust me, they are! It just seems that it takes a little more effort and technique to get used to the real straights.

Try using some Chromium oxide paste on a piece of flat balsa wood, or an old leather strop, to finish off your honing process before you strop it.

If you don't have any CRo2 paste, and you can't, or don't want to wait to order some, then just try some good metal polish paste (under many brands, but make sure it is a little gritty and normally a white paste) on some newspaper to strop it with about 10 times or so.

If you get it right, it will put a reall great edge on your razor.

Also, don't expect a newly purchased razor from the factory you are looking at to be "shave ready". Any new razor will need some work before you can really use it.

Good luck and keep us posted!

I have been so busy! I am sorry to reply so late. I thank you all for your advices.

You are right, I could be very good at razor honing but it is not my job so a professional service will work better; but I would like to try what Woodturner says.

I hope I am not off topic if I ask to Woodturner how he uses to hone his razors. (I mean do you use a pyramid honing proces or you just go from 1000 to 12000 etc).

To leadingedge : I use red and blue stangen-pasta on a streich-riemen doublesided handheld strop then I strop on leather before shaving.

have you been looking at http://straightrazorpalace.com/vbgooglemapme.php

maybe your lucky and can find someone in your area

Also if you notice the edge deteriorate while shaving it is usually a sign that the honing is not done properly

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RRalph

I have been so busy! I am sorry to reply so late. I thank you all for your advices.

You are right, I could be very good at razor honing but it is not my job so a professional service will work better; but I would like to try what Woodturner says.

I hope I am not off topic if I ask to Woodturner how he uses to hone his razors. (I mean do you use a pyramid honing proces or you just go from 1000 to 12000 etc).

To leadingedge : I use red and blue stangen-pasta on a streich-riemen doublesided handheld strop then I strop on leather before shaving.

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Sounds like you've got the right equipment and you're on the right track RRalph. You'll definitely get there very soon! Keep it up and good luck!
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