I'm pretty sure that I've read that mineral oil can be used on the blades. I just wanted to double check before I applied it to any of the razors? There is only one kind of mineral oil??? The laxative stuff?
Sorry if stupid question.
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I'm pretty sure that I've read that mineral oil can be used on the blades. I just wanted to double check before I applied it to any of the razors? There is only one kind of mineral oil??? The laxative stuff?
Sorry if stupid question.
mineral oil, ballistol, camelia oil are some of the oils that work.
Ok, and could balistol also be used for maintenance of your strop, or would palm oil be a better idea? Thanks!
Baby oil is mineral oil.
I use it on my strop and it works fine for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Coffeeman
I used it to soften it up and increase the draw and it worked great for me.
How often should I oil a razor vs. letting it dry after a shave?
After I shave I dry it off with a towel and let it air dry for about an hour if I have the time and then I oil it.
If I don't have the time to air dry I make sure to dry really good and put the oil on it right away. Regardless I put oil on my blade after every use.
JC. 'Good question - I've had the same, and I KNOW others have too. Probably the easiest solution I've come across was from Utopian, who disolves mineral oil in alchohol. After a post shave stropping to clear any remaining moisture or chunga from the blade, dip in alch/oil solution and let air dry. Alch evaporates, leaves oil coating that shows as a slightly cloudy finish on the blade. The oil is so thin, there's no need to wipe off - just strop and shave.
I tried w/ off the rack Isopropyl alch, and abandoned, 'cause it has about 30% water in it. I went with the more costly denatured alch - avail in hardware/paint stores. I disolved 1 tablespoon mineral oil (off the rack laxative type). The jar has a wire clamp w/ a rubber seal, allowing a fair seal for agitating the solution until disolved - which can take a few days. I tried adding a 2nd tablespoon, but it wouldn't fully disolve - leaving somewhat of a salad oil globule appearance in the jar. That's not a problem, but just to let you anticipate amounts, appearance, etc.
I've had blades stain from water in less than one day - so some method for oil application is a very good idea. Riooso also found a very good oil applicator from the japanese supply house. 'Don't have the link readily at hand, but you could search or pm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcsixx
As others have said, be very careful to more than dry your blade before applying oil. I've rusted two razors already before RandyDance clued me into what I was doing wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by jcsixx
I could have sworn it was dry, but the evidence of rust tells me different. I would finish shaving and then take a completely dry towel and wipe the blade several times. Then I would pass it back and forth in the air for ten seconds, and then finally apply oil to it. Well, I rusted two razors so I no longer do that.
>> Sorry if stupid question.
As far as I'm concerned, the only stupid question is one that you don't ask. If you honestly don't know something and someone else can help you, it isn't stupid.
Before applying oil, I wiped the blades down with some everclear. Then I applied the mineral oil. No harm done yet (fingers crossed).
One of the advantages of Ballistol. If the razor is not completely dry, Ballistol will emulsify with any water remaining; and still provide good protection. The water will evaporate instead of being trapped under the oil; and the Ballistol will remain.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodach
I've been using it for all leather and metal goods (rifles, razors, etc...) when canoeing, and otherwise, for the last 3-4 years. Best gun oil I've ever used for high humidity. Wish I'd known about it 50 years ago.