Question on razor maintenance

Hello,

I have been shaving since the middle of November and have made real progress. I have been able to do full three pass shaves when time permits for around a month now. My question is, My shave is comfortable on my WTG pass and pretty much on XTG, but my ATG leaves around my mouth really razor burned and the skin is kind of flakey. I was wondering if it is time for me to get a touch up on my razor or if my razor is fine and I need to just focus on my technique. I hold the razor with the spine almost resting on my face for the ATG pass. My shaves are crazy smooth but my face is uncomfortable. Today I tried to use a alum block after my shave and that just amplified the uncomfortableness. Any help and suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks

I've found that to be the case also. That's one of the areas, along with the moustache, that only gets WTG and XTG. The smoothness I get isn't worth the discomfort,

I have had to make a compromise myself. There are areas of my face where BBS is possible, but results in discomfort afterwards.

Have you tried doing one pass, but making very short scything strokes? I find that when I spend the time this way, I've done one pass and I'm smooth for a full day.

IME the short strokes have proven to be more effective and comfortable than the long strokes you see in some shaving videos.

The skin at the sides of my mouth is wrinkly and bumpy. I can get it down to BBS, but I've been backing off on that because of weepers and nicks that accompany efforts to get it really close. I've begun using two hands on the blade when doing the ATG pass on the moustache area. That seems to stabilize the blade and prevent the whiskers from turning it down into the skin. I also try to stay above and parallel to the skin. That may not result in BBS, but it is plenty close enough for me. When you have a sharp blade in your hands, compromise can be a good thing.

As long as you feel your edge is good and the shave it smooth, there are limitations on what a face will tolerate and each person is different. Perhaps using a lighter touch in the sensitive areas and knowing the areas limits.

Good aftershave balm that moisturizes the skin...and extras.

Good Luck,

Pabster

I found that three passes was just too irritating and keep it to two passes... it took some time, and two passes with some mixed XTG/ATG, and scything stokes added in the second pass I have let the BBS come to me... yes, minor stubble has remained, but I'd rather have minor stubble than a raw face. Now I get BBS with two passes every shave.

ADDED: I used the alum block as a training tool, in that it stings, and some times more than others, but that stinging lets me know where I need to focus my attention... my whole face use to sting, then as I got better, the sting areas kept reducing until no more stinging, and a much more comfortable shave.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pabster

As long as you feel your edge is good and the shave it smooth, there are limitations on what a face will tolerate and each person is different. Perhaps using a lighter touch in the sensitive areas and knowing the areas limits.

Good aftershave balm that moisturizes the skin...and extras.

Good Luck,

Pabster

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+1 on a lighter touch, ATG requires zero pressure. Also pay more attention to your stropping, IME this means slowing down, I still do this from time to time. Pay attention to how the razor edge is making contact with the leather. Good luck.

Are you using anything for an aftershave?

Thanks for all the input, I guess I will try the two pass shave this week and see how that helps. I am using an aftershave balm, in my routine I use AOS pre-shave oil, shave cream, Allum (first time when post was made), and aftershave balm. I have been wondering when I need to start thinking about a touch up and was wondering if this was a sign of that. I might look into getting a loupe so I can look at the shape of my blade close up.

There is a tendency when going against the grain to apply pressure. It's kind of an automatic thing you don't realize you are doing. As has been said for ATG it's imperative you apply the least pressure so you need to be really mindful and pay attention to what you are doing and make that extra effort in your technique to lay off the pressure.

I'm still new (just had my one year anniversary - yay!) and I still cheat sometimes and use my DE to get around my mouth. I'm still figuring out the grain on my lips - it seems to run from my nostrils diagonally down to the corner of my mouth. Eash to go WTG, but ATG is nearly impossible because I can't figure out how to stretch my skin properly. Another problem area for me is ATG under my neck. My gain goes from left jawbone, slightly upward to my right jawbone. Good Luck!

since you have been shaving new with st8 razors. Try switching between blade makers if you have more than 1 kind.
I've found that Dovo's work better for me while T.Issard I'm just now starting to get use to it. It has been well over a year for me now with both blades.
Will agree with SM's on smaller strokes. feels a lot more comforting.
For me::: I can never get myself to shave the lower lip area with straight razor. =/ have to use a multi blade razor. booooo for me =(

For a comfortable ATG pass your razor really has to be in tip-top shape, as in as sharp as can be. If you haven't touched up your razor since you started (in Nov ?) then you're likely more than overdo. I'm willing to bet you'll notice a difference :D

+1 to knowing your skin's limits in certain areas, too.

swimlikehell,

+1 to the sage advice above.

Sometimes your chops will not like an ATG pass.

I have shaved with a straight for the last two year years, doing a three (3) pass shave (WTG, XTG & ATG) with no problems at all - until the last few weeks :(

The ATG irritation that now occurs, happens with both straights & safety razors :(

So in the interim, I have just stopped doing the ATG. I will re-try periodically of course.

Far better to be comfortable and have a few stray whiskers than beetroot red & BBS :)

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ