Help for a potential straight shaver!

Hello, like the title says, I need a little advice. I have not yet started shaving with a straight but am seriously considering it. I currently use a safety razor (Edwin Jagger DE89L with Feather blades) and while I get consistently good shaves with it, I am really interested and intrigued by using a straight. However...I need to go ATG if I want even a DFS with safety razors on all areas of my face, including my upper lip..I have read that going ATG with a straight in that area is known as the Fool's Pass, and with good reason...So my question is, will I be able to get a BBS, or even a DFS with a straight just going WTG and XTG on my upper lip area? I guess the easiest way to find out is to get myself a straight and a strop but I do not want to just jump in if it's not going to satisfy my shaving needs...

It likely will get pretty close, but you have to consider, for the first few weeks(at least)

1. You will probably use improper technique and get a less than ideal shave

2. You will probably strop wrong and get a less than ideal shave

3. If you don't buy a razor that is honed by a pro, or GET it honed by a pro, you will get a less than ideal shave

Some things to consider. Its not as easy as you might think, there are lots of things to consider. If you're like me, you'll get mediocre shaves for a while...

I started using straights four months ago and now shave with a straight 90% of the time and with an EJ DE89L for 10% of the time. I love shaving with a straight. It is fun, challenging, and fulfilling. It took me 100 shaves before I felt I could control the shave as well as with a DE. (I am a slow learner.). BUT THE REWARDS ARE INCREDIBLE.

When I am in a hurry, I use the 89L. I also often do a WTG & XTG with a straight and ATG with the Jagger. You should feel free to experiment and use both a DE and a straight. It's your face and you should do what satisfies you.

I have found that I can get BBS on the upper lip with a straight by using one WTG pass and two XTG passes. It is not necessary to do ATG.

I hope you will commit to giving it a try. It's really rewarding.

Welcome to SRP.

As far as shaving, the main differences between straight razors and DE razors, other than the different way of holding them are

1. de blades are thinner and more flexible, often they're sharper too which to large extent is achieved by a coating to reduce friction.
2. de razors generally have a guard and preset contact angle

So a straight razor would give you much more variation in angle and pressure, but that also comes at a cost - you need a lot more skill than you need with a DE razor. If you do not have the patience to go over the learning curve (typically months even a year) and accept not particularly close, or comfortable shaves, then it probably isn't a very good choice.

I've also shaved with shavette-type razors, including two models by feather and to me they feel more like a DE razors than normal straight razors. BTW, I've never found a razor to be 'too sharp' no matter what kind of razor or blade I've used, but you often see this.
Japanese razors are just different to hold but shaving-wise they do feel like wedge type straight razors.

I think you will be able to get BBS with a straight.
You just won't for the first few shaves/months.
Once you get your technique down and are using proper tools, you'll get there.
I have used DE's and Feather artist club, and they do deliver fine BBS shaves, and they can feel sharper.
The thing is, good prep and good technique with a straight will yield the same, if not even better, results.

I have never met an experienced straight shave who couldn't get their upper lip totally smooth, if that was what they were going for.

Search out xman's videos on shaving.
He shows a fool's pass done expertly!
Good luck!

The bad news: The only way to truly know is to try it!
The good news: The only way to truly know is to try it!

Notice how they're both the same? I made the leap from electric dry shaving (painful!) right to straight razor shaving, and the payoff is incredible. Much less irritation and a much more satisfying shave. I actually feel bad when I have a day (or two) where I can't fit in a shave for one reason or another.

I do notice that a lot of guys do partial straight razor shaves, and finish with a DE. I would recommend that. Buy yourself a razor/strop package from SRD or pick something up in the auction area. I'm sure you won't be disappointed. :)

I think you can eventually get BBS shaves with a straight razor, if that is your goal, but it will take time, practice, work at it, and maybe even more time. If you think you're going to be able to get great shaves in just a week or two with a straight, I doubt that will happen. I've seen posts in this forum in which newbies were claiming BBS on the fourth shave. On my fourth shave, I was just learning how to really cut the crap out of my face.

I think you can get where you want to go with a straight. I would just caution you that it isn't easy and that it does take a lot of work, patience, and time. I've put in that work. It did take quite a while. But, in the end, it is far more interesting shaving with a straight razor.

As far as the "Fool's Pass" goes, I can get BBS on the upper lip with it by holding the razor with both hands and "skating" it above and parallel to the skin line. It takes great care, can be a little dangerous, but does get the area under the nose close. I don't usually do that because I can live with areas that are not BBS.

Thanks for replying everyone. I know I won't be able to get BBS shaves on my first or probably even my 50th shave. I really love the feeling of the razor on my skin and that suction feeling the blade creates and I'm thinking a straight razor will give me even more of that feeling. One question, I know that shaving with a straight (after you have the technique down) will give you the best possible shave, but if DE blades are sharper, wouldn't shaving with an aggressive DE razor give you a closer shave than a straight?

The DE blades are not sharper than any straight razor, many razors can be just as sharp. Aggressive DE means just higher angle and with a straight razor you have full control over it.
Though I think you would do better to concentrate on comfort, not closeness - that's much more effective and efficient way to learn.

You can't compare a DE blade with a straight. The DE blade is machine made, very thin and has coatings. It's apples and oranges. Also it is housed within a safety housing so your angles and approaches are limited compared to a straight. I think I can be bold in saying no DE will ever outshave a straight or even equal it. If someone says it does their straight technique needs work.

I tend to agree with thebigspendur. Nothing is comparable to a straight razor shave in terms of closeness.

The next best thing to a straight razor shave is a DE razor shave, but it's not the same.

Of course straight razor shaving requires more attention to technique and will usually take a bit longer to achieve that same degree of closeness--especially if you are new to the craft.

But believe me, its well worth it.

I think a properly honed straight is far smoother of a shave than DE or cartridge. Yes a close shave is nice, but I think the smoothness is a large part of the enjoyment. Heck you did say you want BBS, not BBC. Give it a try. :gl:

Yes, I think I'm going to have to take the plunge...any suggestions on a beginner blade and strop? I know there's a beginner's guide here on SRP, which recommends getting a 6/8" because it's the middle of the road but there seems to be more 5/8" blades..and it also recommends getting a half hollow? I was thinking probably the dovo best in 5/8"? Or should I look for a used vintage straight? And I definitely want a 3" strop because I don't want to have to do the X pattern when stropping...

You won't be able to ''jump in'' and get a BBS shave when you're just starting. However, after some time on the razor it should be no problem, I shave XTG & ATG on my upper lip with ease. Once you find the correct angles of a straight, the ''fools pass'' becomes non-existent.

I started with the dove best from SRD it is a wonderful razor. I also wanted to give you my thoughts on the BBS shave. It took about 3 months before I was brave enough to try a ATG pass, my neck and around my mouth are real sensitive so I only do three passes on my checks. I do WTG and ATG on my neck/mouth and XTG,XTG and ATG on my checks and I get consistent BBS shaves. Hope this helps, happy learning

So what's the difference between the 5/8 and 6/8? Obviously the 6/8 is slightly bigger but how does that affect the shave?

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Originally Posted by thebigspendur

You can't compare a DE blade with a straight. The DE blade is machine made, very thin and has coatings. It's apples and oranges. Also it is housed within a safety housing so your angles and approaches are limited compared to a straight. I think I can be bold in saying no DE will ever outshave a straight or even equal it. If someone says it does their straight technique needs work.

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+1 I just got a DE not too long ago and the shave i get from that is no where near as comfortable and or as close as my straights. Like everyone said everything comes with practice. Good luck with your shaves.

I've shaved with everything from a 4/8 to a 10/8 and, while they may feel different, there was not much difference in shaving with them. I'd start with 6/8, but that is really a non-issue.

As for closeness and comfort, I used to get wonderful shaves with a Pro Glide cartridge and still do. I have a Merkur 34C that I can get wonderful shaves with as well. Last week, for the heck of it, I used my Pro Glide and got a perfect shave in one minute and 37 seconds. I can get a great shave with the DE in under 3 minutes.

To be honest, I'm 115 shaves in on straights, and I can still get a closer and smoother shave with a DE or Cartridge. But I don't shave for smoothness or closeness. I shave for fun.

I started a little while ago and I shave face and head with a straight.. the size IMHO really depends on feel, and how easy you want to get to the nooks to start with... a smaller one is good for lip area (at least I have found).... I have three all for different areas.. I have an 8/8 wedge for my head... 6/8 full hollow for my cheeks and neck.. and an old vintage extra hollow that I honed down to get under my nose, under my lip, and small areas.. But really it's what you are comfy with.. 5/8 seems to be a good starter size.. I have read on here where some guys can shave perfectly under the lip with what would be the Razor comparison to a meat cleaver... so the more you refine your shaving skills the better you can rely on one razor to get all the areas.. Good luck on your adventure....:jedi: oh and Coome to the darksiiide..

Yes, what the other guys have said is good advice.
Size of the blade doesn't matter much. You can get good shaves with any size, the thing is, you will not know what size you prefer before you have tried some different ones.
That's why many recommend the 6/8 half hollow as a middle ground of what is out there.
I myself started out with a extra hollow 5/8.
After trying out more razors, I found that my preference was the slightly bgger blades.
But, I used that very 5/8 today, and it is still a very fine shaver.
Tomorrow could very well be a 10/8 wedge:) That works equally fine for me.
Shaving under the nose with such a big blade is no more difficult than with a 4/8, you just need to get used to it.
Pick one middle ground razor, you will soon be buying more, that is the ime to experiment:
Good luck!

Well, I have pulled the trigger and now I am waiting on my first ever straight set! It's the dovo 5/8 (i think full hollow) and the black 3" latigo strop plus Lynn's World Of Straight Razor DVD and the oil for the blade! Thanks guys for all the info and pushing me towards getting my first straight set!!! I can't wait to try it out!

Great!
Best of luck in your new adventure. I'm quite sure you will enjoy it..... if, you visit the tutorials on this site, Don't go for BBS right away, don't try to shave in 1minute 37 seconds, don't shave distracted. Pre shave prep is huge.
Huge warning! This is a HIGHLY ADDICTIVE activity.
Enjoy!
Ed
quicknicker

Quicknicker is absolutely correct.. Think Zen of Straight razor shaving and look it up on the forum.. Enjoy... Oh and of course no shove at all from us..:w we would never do such a thing..

Just my two cents.. the first few shaves i did were pretty cool, but I had one particular day where I had the house to myself and made a full on ritual of it.. one of the most relaxing days I have had in year.. the shave didn't even come out perfect either.. Welcome to the dark side...

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Originally Posted by esstothejay

Well, I have pulled the trigger and now I am waiting on my first ever straight set! It's the dovo 5/8 (i think full hollow) and the black 3" latigo strop plus Lynn's World Of Straight Razor DVD and the oil for the blade! Thanks guys for all the info and pushing me towards getting my first straight set!!! I can't wait to try it out!

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esstothejay,

You made a very wise choice. Personally, I opted for the 5/8 to begin with. Its a little less intimidating when you put it next to your face for that first shave.

Your purchase of Lynn's DVD is a plus. I watched his chapter on shaving with a straight several times before actually attempting to do so myself.

Later, after gaining a little experience and confidence with your blade handling technique, you can move up to a 6/8 and even beyond. I've shaved with a 7/8, but that was about a year into straight razor shaving for me.

Remember to prep your beard thoroughly before you shave. Hot water, apply lather with yourshaving brush, massage the lather into your beard with your fingertips, let it set for awhile, perhaps even apply a hot towel to your face. Let the hot water, lather and towel soften your whiskers. Then reapply your lather and shave.

Don't try to shave your entire face the first time, just shave one side of your face--either the right or left. As you gain in confidence you can attempt to shave the other parts of your face, especially the more difficult areas such as your chin and neck.

One small thing everyone seemed to fail to mention........It's absolutly addictive! I started str8 shaving wit a DOVO Best Quality at end of December (Christmas gift) after 3 mo of DE. Now have nine more from various antique stores/gun shows. After buying some norton stones and learning (still learning) to hone, all shave nicely. love it. seems longer than 3 1/2 months. Take your time, trust yourself/your instincts. The lather seems to make an awlful big difference on shave. If blade sticks to face try diff amount of soap or water in lather. Have Fun and ENJOY!

Thanks again guys! A little disappointed that it didn't arrive today although it was shipped yesterday..I thought it would only take one day since it's coming from OH to VA..well good thing about usps is that they deliver on Saturdays. I have no doubt that I will enjoy shaving with a straight and I recently had a bad case of SCAD and SSAD and increased my collection of creams and soaps from a tube of proraso to AOS lavender and sandalwood, Speick cream, Tabac soap and EJ buckthorn soap. I am also looking to buy a better brush. I think shaving with a straight is hands down THE ULTIMATE way of shaving and I hope that I learn to do things properly and not pick up any bad habits. I can't wait 'til I'm good at shaving with a straight and also honing but I will also definitely enjoy the process! Thanks again!