How likely is it

that I have found 2 warped blades? Is it more likely that I need to lap my hones better? I followed the instructional videos I have found with the pencil marking wet sandpaper. The thing is that after Lynn's recomendation after finishing with a 12K Naniwa I stropped like he said and tried to shave this morning and it was still a little uncomfortable. So I looked at it with 20 loop and found mostly like a mirror polished edge, but a few spots still looked like it was sandblasted. Any suggestions.

Very little info to go on here, so take my words with several grains of salt. However, the chance your hones are uneven seem a slim one to me, if they were new or properly lapped beforehand. If in doubt, use the pencil grid system again, that should disclose any hone problems quickly.
I don't know how much honing you have done, but judging by your post count and your question I think it is far more likely your honing is not yet up to the task. If your edge has a little movement in it, like a smile or even an uneven grind or previous excessive honewear, the demand for a good honing stroke is high. The blade needs to be in contact with the hone at all times, and this is not so easy if you have not had time to build a good muscle memory yet. Plus, resetting a bevel on a badly damaged razor is far from a small task.
Of cource, it could be that your razors indeed are warped, or that your hones are at fault, but I'm look at the honing strokes first. Plus, if your honing strokes are even and consistent, it could be that you just did not spend enough time on the stones yet.
You did not say anything about arm hair tests, or thumbpad tests, did you check before you moved off the 1k hone?
Hope this helped.

Some helpful info. I will re-lap just to eliminate that for sure. It passed thru the hair on my arm like butter. Not experienced enough to know from a thumbpad test, and it passed a hanging hair test after the 12K but I only did the HHT at about a 3rd of the way from the toe. Being as it was a given razor maybe I will just start over after I lap the hones again. It did look like it was ground unevenly when i first got it. And the bevel wasnt much deeper than my pocket knife. So maybe I just didnt spend enough time setting the bevel. This time I will test more often during the process. If I cant do it myself this time I will definately send it out.
Thanks

Oh and yes I am very new to this.

I am working on a person's razor that has a cooked grind, so it's very possible. All it takes is a known straightedge to figure it out. On this particular razor the spine is straight, it's just that the edge is literally "bowed". Some are salvageable, some are not. Check the spine and edge to ensure they are straight & if so, give it another whirl on the stones. Heck, every once and a while I still go back to the stones with a razor, so don't feel bad at all...

You know that never even dawned on me. I will have to get out my welder square...Thanks for the encouragement Shooter. Worse come to worse I will bring it with me in Nov when i go to Texas to go hunting with my brother-in-law and let you look at it. LOL

I don't know if this will make sense as I am not very scientific, but I try not to pay attention to the width of the bevel itself. What I am trying to do by establishing a bevel is to produce an efficient edge. A bevel can be quite small but produce a superior edge when set correctly. If your pressure is consistent using either circles or X strokes, you can usually get there on a decent razor without removing a lot of metal or increasing the width of the bevel visibly on the razor.

I think I will lap the hones and start all over and see what happens. BTW I have 1K 5K 8K and 12K Naniwa's. I also have a 220 (but bought it before I got Lynn's video). Unless I chip a blade that will be used for paper weight.

You are right on in regards to the 220, but you will be thankful if you need it. When I use anything under 1K or am going to have to "grind" a bit on an edge, I always use some tape on the spine. No since in wearing the spine down for no reason...

I used the 220 to get past some pitting in the edge and I used tape then I set or thought I set the bevel on the 1K without. Henckel 415 seems to be very hard steel but I only have a few pocket knives and my Henckels Kitchen knives to compare it too. But it will be well worthit because its a beautiful razor.

Oh ya, the 220 will be great for the kitchen. I take my kitchen knives to 3K quite often, but I have dedicated stones for knives.

Oh for the kitchen knives and everything else I use a Lansky to about a 1200. I cant seem to keep the angle without some help.

I've never used Lansky's, but have been thinking more and more about it for kitchen, pocked, and hunting knives.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lynn

I don't know if this will make sense as I am not very scientific, but I try not to pay attention to the width of the bevel itself. What I am trying to do by establishing a bevel is to produce an efficient edge. A bevel can be quite small but produce a superior edge when set correctly. If your pressure is consistent using either circles or X strokes, you can usually get there on a decent razor without removing a lot of metal or increasing the width of the bevel visibly on the razor.

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+1, I have at least two razors with bevels so small you can't hardly even see them. But these two razors, probably because of their steel..., are two of my best shavers. I don't use the HHT because my hair is goofy and wont cut well, but I pull the hairs from a cheap brush I got at X-mart and make sure my razors can slice through them at the 1K. Until that happens at multiple points on my blade, I don't progress to higher grits.

I that all make sense and I was meaning more that when I looked at the edge a portion of it looked more sandblasted like it hadn't touch anything other than the 220 grit. But a little update. I spent hours re-lapping from 1k up with the pencil grid method. It had to be the stones. Now I have a near mirror finish to the edge with just a few striations hear and there. But I noticed that I did not get all the pitting out of the edge. Looking thru a 20x loop I saw one spot and wouldnt you know it is in the middle of the edge. So I believe I can work it out by just going back to the 5 and 8k and not go all the way back to 220 or 1k. Wish me luck. Now to work on that Case razor. Thanks to everyone for the advice.

@shooter if you can afford the "Wicked edge" I wold recommend that one over the lansky you can get a much more refined edge than with the lansky and it is much more diverse, but they are proud of it.

Thanks to everyone for the advice. It was very helpful and much appreciated.

Ok I now have a shave ready Henckels 415. It was my stroke I was either lifting or something. So I turned it around literally, I started back honing. And was able to notice because the water trail. Long story short after figuring that out it is now smooth as silk...Like buttering toast...Thanks for all the advice...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by poppy926

that I have found 2 warped blades? Is it more likely that I need to lap my hones better? I followed the instructional videos I have found with the pencil marking wet sandpaper. The thing is that after Lynn's recomendation after finishing with a 12K Naniwa I stropped like he said and tried to shave this morning and it was still a little uncomfortable. So I looked at it with 20 loop and found mostly like a mirror polished edge, but a few spots still looked like it was sandblasted. Any suggestions.

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Flat hones help but are not all that is required.

Try the magic marker test and "audition" your razor
on your hones. If the hone wipes the magic marker
and leaves a clean edge you are on the right track.

If it does not try slightly different hone strokes
to see if they wipe the marker from the bevel
clear to the edge.

Flat lapped hones help a lot when switching
from one hone to another for progressively finer
grits. The old barber that had five razors and
one touch up hone that grew swayback together over the
years had no problem (until he got a new razor).

The magic marker test ... can tell a lot.