Beginner in need of some rust removal advice.

Hi all,

So recently I acquired a razor that seems to have come rusting. The razor is "hy-carbon steel". The rusting is very minimal, there is no pitting (at least that's what I think), and it really is only about a few months of rust. I can scratch some of it off with my fingernails.

it was shave ready about 1 year ago.

The majority of the rust is on the right side of the razor, with a significant portion on the spine.

What is the cheapest and quickest way that I could get this razor back into commission?

here is a pic: http://i.imgur.com/YhozW.jpg

--let me know if you need more

Best,

RH

Start with posting a photo here so we have a better sense of the severity.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Utopian

Start with posting a photo here so we have a better sense of the severity.

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'Nuff said.


However, if a camera is not within distance of you, I'd start with some metal polisher. Maas works great! Others will correct me if I'm wrong, but it's nearly certain the blade will have to be rehoned to ensure the rust didn't touch the edge.

Yes a photo would help, but just like honing try not to remove more than is needed, especially if this razor is a full hollow or double hollow.
I would almost guarantee that it would need a honing, even if you cannot see rust along the bevel with the naked eye, it is still very probably there. Of course my wife did shave last night with a 40+ year old DE blade, so you never know.

I just had the same problem with razors I had sitting for a while. My first line of defense is MAAS, or Mother's mag and wheel polish.
If not, you may have to take more drastic measures...9 times out of ten that's sufficient for what your describing without photos.

Remember to start with a mild approach because you can always get more aggressive if the blade requires. Start with Maas or Flitz or even toothpaste. Avoid any sanding unless it is required because it creates future work for you,

This is one post where until I see a picture I ain't giving any advice. Everything is relative and minor rust to one person is pitting to another so...

hey guys I made an edit with a pic.

Thanks for the help.

BigSpendur was right. People have different senses of scale of severity, and after seeing that picture, I'd say your tolerance is pretty high. Aside from the significant cosmetic issue, your edge is toast. In order to get that razor up to snuff, it is going to need a full bevel re-set in order to hone past what is now a swiss-cheese steel in the edge.

Before honing, the rest of the razor needs to be addressed. You need to eliminate the active rust. Start with a metal polish like Maas, Mothers, Flitz, or Simichrome and start rubbing. See how that does. Unfortunately I suspect that will not be sufficient.

Ron/Utopian may very well be correct, but I have seen razors that look like that BUT the rust is not very deep at all and a clean bevel comes in very quickly. My plan of attack would be to do some circles on each side on the 1k just to see what's under the rust and then decide where to go from there.

If you don't have a hone, you could use your metal polish of choice. I prefer to start with a single edge scraper (looks like a SE blade, but they say clearly they are not for shaving) to take off the top layer of rust. If you put the edge parallel to the razor's edge and make a swipe from spine to edge, all the surface rust should come off quite easily.

The rust does not look too bad... A couple places look worse than others.


Even dull rusted razors cut like heck so begin with
a cautious plan. One plan is to send it to
someone to do for you....

You can sand it with some 1000 or 2000 grit wet dry 3M paper
from the local handy man shop. Most auto stores have it
as do most small hardware stores.

Tear off a bit not quite as big as a match book cover
and then use something to protect your fingers fold the
paper over the spine and lightly sand pinching the
blade between your protected fingers.

Use some of those chop sticks from Chinese take out
to make a tool to work the corners.

Spray with WD-40 and finish sand... and hone it
up.

The rust near and on the edge bothers me but may
just be surface....

Some of the guys in the classified have a set
of buffers that would make quick work of the
problem... then they also have a big kit of
hones to get it shave ready again.

What state are the scales in?

not the hijackthis thread but I have a similar issue I just had my ti honed by Lynn about 2 weeks ago and it started to rust while I was shaving with it it's not horrible and I understand carbon steel rusts but while shaving with it that seems pretty absurd any ideas what may cause it to rust so fast any ideas are greatly appreciated I have more pics if needed http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMAG0361.jpg

I think the above divergence of opinion is correct, for we can't yet know how deep the pitting is, or how the edge is affected. After the timespan described, we can hope for the best.

Rust is like rats, for if you leave any, it will breed more. I would put most trust in chemical removal, but anything that does that, can frost the surface of the steel. This is not a mirror-polished blade, so I'd be inclined to do it, and rely on abrasive paper of 1200 grit or finer, or metal polish, to make it look as good as a razor with pits can.

Naval jelly can be localised in the pits with a sharpened matchstick. Or you could hang the blade in dilute hydrochloric or sulphuric acid, starting with a strength which does nothing at all, and increasing till you see the rust loosening. If you don't want to use chemicals, I would stand the blade in alcohol or penetrating and easing oil for a while to loosen the rust, and then brush it very throughly with a brass suede-shoe brush. Avoid rubbing it over the edge, or you will increase the amount of honing needed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by holli4pirating

Ron/Utopian may very well be correct, but I have seen razors that look like that BUT the rust is not very deep at all and a clean bevel comes in very quickly. My plan of attack would be to do some circles on each side on the 1k just to see what's under the rust and then decide where to go from there.

If you don't have a hone, you could use your metal polish of choice. I prefer to start with a single edge scraper (looks like a SE blade, but they say clearly they are not for shaving) to take off the top layer of rust. If you put the edge parallel to the razor's edge and make a swipe from spine to edge, all the surface rust should come off quite easily.

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Dylan has the plan of attack that most all of us that do this every day use,, a SE razor will scrape off the rust, then take it to a hone, as everything else said in this thread is a moot point if the edge is shot,,, Making it shine won't make it shave... Once you scrape off the rust you can tell much much more and it takes seriously about 10 seconds :)


Warning:

Most every experiment using harsh rust removing chemicals on razors has met with less the desirable rusults...
If anyone has used them with good results Please post a thread explaining the process in detail,, BTW on this forum we have a saying, partly a joke but not always, "Without Pics it didn't happen" :)

Dylan (Holli4pirating) also started a thread a while ago about using Maas with superfine synthetic steel wool. I have not tried it yet, but it seemed like a good idea that may be applicable here.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Utopian

Dylan (Holli4pirating) also started a thread a while ago about using Maas with superfine synthetic steel wool. I have not tried it yet, but it seemed like a good idea that may be applicable here.

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Other than using Flitz because I can't find Maas locally, I've found this method to be my favorite starting point. Put some of your metal polish on the blade and let it sit for a minute or two. Then start scrubbing with some 000 synthetic steel wool. It won't get rid of pitting or devils spit, but it will get rid of active rust and smooth things out.
If the rust is on the edge spend a couple minutes getting rid of the rust on the blade. Then put it to a 1k and start setting a bevel with circles. After a quick set of 20 or 30 on each side the rust should be gone. Takes maybe a minute or two. After that you can easily see if the edge is worth pursuing it if you're best tossing it or bringing it down.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by USNHM8404

not the hijackthis thread but I have a similar issue I just had my ti honed by Lynn about 2 weeks ago and it started to rust while I was shaving with it it's not horrible and I understand carbon steel rusts but while shaving with it that seems pretty absurd any ideas what may cause it to rust so fast any ideas are greatly appreciated I have more pics if needed http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMAG0361.jpg

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Rusting while shaving is pretty crazy. Go to your local pet store with a small cup of water and ask them to test it. They will be able to tell you if your water is particularly harsh, acidic, etc. which MAY be the reason you're experiencing this. I don't have a TI, but all of my blades (that I use) are Carbon and don't rust, especially not while I'm shaving.

*Disclaimer: this is not to say that carbon blades don't rust...even Stainless blades WILL rust given time. AND if you wanted to get really technical you might be able to say that every blade rusts as you shave given that moisture, salts, other chemicals, and oxygen are all present as you shave...a perfect recipe for corrosion.

I had one razor that started to rust during honing (but it was not normal honing, there was edge repair going on), but that is the fastest I've ever seen. But that stuff came right off with metal polish. I have found that fast rust is not deep rust (it doesn't have time to move past the very surface), so it comes off really easily. Also, that was red, not black. Black near the edge is much more likely "lather burn" - the basic soap causes black tarnish. This happens if there is some leftover lather left on the razor (hence usually from the edge up) or if lather gets into and is not removed from the scales.

But if that did happen during a single shave (wasn't there before you started and was after), I think some coating on the blade (tuf glide or ren wax are the first two that come to my mind) would be imperative.

Because I use a stereomicrope to aid my honing, I many times have seen rust forming on the bevel during honing. This is why it is critical to strop immediately after honing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by USNHM8404

not the hijackthis thread but I have a similar issue I just had my ti honed by Lynn about 2 weeks ago and it started to rust while I was shaving with it it's not horrible and I understand carbon steel rusts but while shaving with it that seems pretty absurd any ideas what may cause it to rust so fast any ideas are greatly appreciated I have more pics if needed

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Rust this quickly -- I suspect you have cleaned your
razor "too well". Any cleaner that degreases the steel
opens the door. Alcohol or common bleach will open the
door.

Simichrome and MAAS metal polish are good to start
to remove thin layers of rust but need to be followed by a
thin layer of oil or wax on a regular basis.

I have seen rust in five min when sanding and
polishing eBray finds. Lacking a commercial polish
a little bit of mudd/ slurry from the surface of
a fine hone in a pinch of coarse paper will
work.

Invest a bit in some mineral oil
or Camilia oil.

If you have WD-40 it is OK but only
last a couple days...

Review this older thread....
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...raights-2.html

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Utopian

Because I use a stereomicrope to aid my honing, I many times have seen rust forming on the bevel during honing. This is why it is critical to strop immediately after honing.

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+1

recall that a leather strop has some strop dressing
on it. A complex mix of oils, waxes and stuff
go into strop dressing and combine with the
minor abrasive action to keep minor rust at
bay on the edge.

I've always been under the impression that MAAS had a corrosion inhibitor in it.

Hello! I have two questions related to this thread. Firstly, can I use steel wool to remove rust, and if so, what should I use it with?

Secondly, I own mineral oil and have decided to oil my blades. Should I use the oil on just the blades and should I then take it off after ten or so minutes, or should I leave the oil on until next shave??

If you want to use real steel wool, then only use the very fine stuff. You can use either with a metal polish or you can use a light oil like 3 in 1.
You can leave the oil on the blade until the next shave.

Edit: If you don't have steel wool, you can also use aluminum foil.