A question on size

Greetings Gentlemen,

Well, the stage is set and the actor is ready, now it's just come down to props. With a good brush and slick soaps abounding, I've got a hankering to try out the straight shave. My question for the more informed is whether or not beard toughness should be factored into what to look for in a new blade. I'm basically cursed with thick, coarse stubble (not Sasquatchesque, but persistant) on near translucent skin. Should I be looking for something in the 6/8 area and up? This will be my first shot with a straight and it may well influence my decision to continue or abandon, so I'd like to make sure I'm actually getting the best audition out of the blade as possible.

On another subject, I've seen only one ebay seller (altima55) mentioned as both reputable and prone to shipping the razors out with a true, shave-ready edge on them. Are there others? The one I had my eye on just cleared what I'd consider acceptable to spend on what might be a one-time use, so I could also use some info on anyone else auction honed blades (I know some are listed here sometimes, but don't see any now.)

Finally, and I'll apologise for going on so long, I was given a thin Puma (believe it was stamped 44 on the shank) that seems much smaller than any of the blades I've seen elsewhere. the blade measure's about 3/8ths of an inch. Should I assume this is a shaper rather than a shaver?

Thank you all in advance...

That puma should shave just fine.

I'd go with either a bigger razor or a thicker grind (either one works). John Crowley has some 6/8 quarter ground razors that would be just the ticket, or a Wade & Butcher barber razor. Or one of Crowley's friodurs or framebacks.

If you want the full sweeney todd effect, go with a big Wade & Butcher, Wostenholm, or Rodgers 8/8 frameback.

The 3/8s, to me, are shapers, for cleaning up moustaches and sideburns. I'm sure a few people use them for the full shave. If you've got a really tough beard, I'd say 6/8 or up, although the grind has more to do with it (IMO) than the size. A wedge is generally a quieter shave, with less flex on the tough hair. My beard's pretty tough, too, and I get by just fine with a full hollow. 6/8s my favorite size, although I like the larger ones, too.

http://shop.writerferret.com might have something that interests you.

8/8 or 8/8+ or bust lol :D

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Originally Posted by JLStorm

8/8 or 8/8+ or bust lol :D

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I know a guy with a 12/8 Wade & Butcher (MINT/Unused) Aintcha jealous? Me, too. :D

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Originally Posted by Joe Chandler

I know a guy with a 12/8 Wade & Butcher (MINT/Unused) Aintcha jealous? Me, too. :D

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no way...who is he and what is he willing to sell it for lol

You have to remember there is this here contingent of guys here who have this thing about BIG razors.

Remember that a 5/8s razor was considered the standard for probably at least 100 years and its what barbers used to shave everybody. My own experience has shown me that you can get as good a shave from a 4/8s as an 8/8s. The experience is different.

My suggestion is to start with either 5/8s or 6/8s and see how you like it and then go up or down for your next until you decide if you want to join the BIG razor club.

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Originally Posted by thebigspendur

You have to remember there is this here contingent of guys here who have this thing about BIG razors.

Remember that a 5/8s razor was considered the standard for probably at least 100 years and its what barbers used to shave everybody. My own experience has shown me that you can get as good a shave from a 4/8s as an 8/8s. The experience is different.

My suggestion is to start with either 5/8s or 6/8s and see how you like it and then go up or down for your next until you decide if you want to join the BIG razor club.

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That's good advice. Personally, I prefer the 6/8, but I've gotten great shaves with everything from a 4/8 up to a 17/16. The honing's the thing. (Well, and the grind, too)

OTOH, the bigger razors seem to be easier to hone, which is no small thing for a newbie...

Fair enough answers and also probably the best explanation as to why there seem to be a predominance of 5/8 razors on the market. So now that I've narrowed down a few forerunners, here's another question; Anyone ever hear of a "silver steel" blade? I seem to have fallen in love with one online. It's more than I had planned to spend, but oh, is she ever purty...

I'm assuming it's a Thiers-Issard? They make nice shavers, and use Sheffield steel hardened using their special lead process. AFAIK theres no silver in the steel, the name comes from the fact that the very high-carbon steel can be polished to a silver-like sheen.

Not a Thiers-Issard. I've already talked myself down from jumping straight to those. It's an old Solingen bearing a 'Best Silver Steel' stamp.

Back to the topic of my humble Puma 3/8, there is a very slight nick at the front of the blade, right where it begins to arc. By slight, I'm talking millimetres. Given its location, would it be worth trying to hone it out? I'll try and get a pic up tomorrow if that'll help anyone better respond.

And in case I haven't already said it, thanks for all the help so far.

I'll echo what others have said about the 5/8 - 6/8 range. Not only are they easier to hone, but easier strop and to handle in the shave. It's a good sarting place.

Silver Steel is fine, but misleading. What you need to pay attention to is the place the steel came from and/or the manufacturer. Sheffield and Solingen are the top of the line steels, but Eskeltuna and some others are also alright. Post a link to the blade you are thinking of or at least the exact make and model and we should be able to advise you better.

Personally, even though I have a lighter beard I am growing into a larger blade kinda guy. It might be like getting a motorcycle though. I don't think anyone would recommend you get a huge touring bike as your first, but you may end up there before long.

X

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Originally Posted by Sweeny Todd

... there is a very slight nick at the front of the blade, right where it begins to arc. By slight, I'm talking millimetres. Given its location, would it be worth trying to hone it out?

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YES! Even the smallest non visible nick can cause problems for you.

That Solingen blade's probably fine.

X

Guys with a coarse or thick beard generally do better with a razor that has a stiffer grind. These are referred to as a "wedge" (single concave grind), 1/4 hollow ground ( bi-concave grind) or 1/2 hollow (bi-concave grind). The minimum blade width would be 4/8 . The 3/8 size is generally referred to as a moustache razor. It is very good for precise shaving around the beard/moustache/goatee.

Have fun,:)

Well, the issue of 'what first' is resolved.

I just won a basic 5/8 MÜHLE-Pinsel at what seems to me to be a fair price, considering it was listed as "brand new." Of course, this wholly ran against my original logic, which was to buy something off one of the sellers who ship the blade with a true shave-ready edge, and I may still do that (Mr Chandler, if you are the sort who checks IP traffic and have noticed repeated visits to shop.writerferret.com from a heretofore unseen IP, that'd be me.)

Thanks again for all the help. I don't doubt I'll have more questions regarding honing and stropping once the razor arrives.

Until then...

S